Saturday, August 16, 2014

Heliotrope for Perfuming Face Powder c1894

We repeat our to your query, that heliotrope as odor, is generally imparted to face powder from the various ingredients in preparing it. However, if you prepared your powder, we presume heliotrope odor may be given it by carefully working in a sufficient amount one of the following perfumes:


  • 1 1/2 drams Vanilla 
  • 10 drops Oil orange flower 
  • 5 drops Oil cherry laurel
  • 3/4 grains Musk 
  • 6 drams Benzoin 
  • 1 pint Alcohol 
  • 1 oz Extract orange flower 
  • 1 quart Extract white rose 
  • 1 oz Extract benzoin 
  • 1/2 pint Extract Vanilla 
  • 1 oz Extract civet 
  • 3 minims Oil bitter almonds 



Creme Celeste c1894

National Drug the following formula in a foreign journal:


  • 80 Parts White cerate 
  • 80 Parts Spermaceti 
  • 600 Parts Oil of sweet almond 
  • 120 Parts Glycerin 
  • 120 Parts Distilled water 
  • 5 Parts Borax 
  • 0.03 Parts Coumarin
  • 1 Part Attar of rose 
  • 0.50 Parts Oil of bergamot 
  • 0.50 Parts Essence of orange flower 
  • 0.30 Parts Attar of ylang ylang 
  • 0.10 Parts Attar of iris
  • 0.30 Parts Tincture of amber 



Mix. If desired, color with alkaline dissolved in a part of the oil of almonds. 

Skin Bleaches or Whiteners c1902


  • Lanolin 30 parts 
  • Bitter almond oil 10 parts 
  • Borax 1 part 
  • Glycerine 15 parts 
  • Hydrogen peroxide 15 parts 


Mix the lanolin and oil of almond, dissolve the borax in the glycerine and peroxide of hydrogen, and mix with the agitation. This preparation does by aid of the bleaching property peroxide.

For a muddy complexion, or a skin with blotched or dirty appearance, the following is commende:


  • White mercurial oint 5 parts 
  • White zinc ointment 5 parts 
  • Lanolin 30 parts 
  • Bitter almond oil 10 parts. 


Mix thoroughly then make the following solution

  • Borax 2 parts 
  • Glycerine 30 parts 

add ten parts of rose water and for 3 ounces of the preparation 5 drops concentrated nitric acid, and quickly it into first mixture. Any perfume be used with the preparation. Stir essential oils in the lanolin mixture.  

Petrolatum Cold Cream c1902


  • Petrolatum white 7 ozs 
  • Paraffin oz Lanolin 2 ozs 
  • Water 3 ozs 
  • Rose oil 3 drops 
  • Alcohol 1 dram 


A small quantity of borax may be if desirable and the perfume may varied to suit the taste of the and his customers. 

Lady Palmerston's Bouquet


  • 2 drams Oil of rose
  • 7 oz Extrait violet 
  • 7  1/2 oz Extrait jasmine 
  • 7  1/2 oz Extrait cassia
  • 4 1/2 drams Oil of bergamot 
  • 1010 ml Oil of cassia
  • 1010 ml Oil of sandalwood  
  • 1016 ml Oil of clove
  • 15 grams Ambergris 
  • 13 grams Musk 
  • 8 grams white sugar
  • 1012 ml Peru Balsam
  • 11 Imperial ounces Rectified Spirits 


Macerate fourteen days and filter.



Oxford and Cambridge Bouquet Perfume


  • 11 minims Oil of lemon 
  • 1 dram Oil of bergamot 
  • 1 oz Tincture of storax 
  • 3 oz Essence of musk 
  • 3 oz Essence of patchouli 
  • 4 oz Spirit of geranium 
  • 5 oz Essence of vanilla 
  • 5 oz Spirit of santal 
  • 10 oz Spirit of rose  
  • 10 oz Cassie extrait  
  • 10 oz Jasmine extrait  
  • 10 oz Rose extrait 
  • 10 oz Tuberose extrait 
  • 1 Imperial pint Violet extrait  


Mix. 

Royal Osbourne Bouquet c1855 and Osborne Bouquet by Rimmel c1856

Royal Osbourne Bouquet c1855

  • 1/2 pint Extract of orris 
  • 1/4 pint Extract of vetiver 
  • 1 pint Extract of sandalwood 
  • 1/2 pint Extract of rose 

Osborne Bouquet by Rimmel c1856
  • 1 minim Otto of rose 
  • 1 oz Essence of musk
  • 2 oz Essence of ambergris 
  • 3 oz Spirit of vetiver
  • 5 oz Spirit of sandalwood 
  • 7 oz Jasmine extrait 
  • 10 oz Tincture of orris
  • 10 oz Violet extrait  
  • 15 oz Cassie extrait

Mix.

Osborne Bouquet 
  • Otto of rose 
  • Essence of musk 
  • Essence of ambergris 
  • Spirit of vetivert 
  • Spirit of santal 
  • Jasmine extrait 
  • Tincture of orris 
  • Violet extrait 
  • Cassie extrait



Friday, August 15, 2014

Various Solid Perfume Formulas

 Frozen or Solid Perfumes with Parafinne


The solid perfumes simply consist of hard paraffine which when melted is perfumed with a corresponding quantity of any desired perfume essence and poured into moulds A few mixtures for such perfumes are here given:

In the first place, the solid perfume is merely perfumed hard paraffine. The hard paraffine is melted and perfumed at as low a temperature as possible, and for a mould, use the lids of 2 dram chip boxes.

White Rose Solid Perfume:

  • 1/2 drm oil of geranium
  • 1/2 drm oil of bergamot
  • 5 minims of patchouli
From 1 to 5 drops to each block may be used, according to the moderation or extravagance of the manufacturer.


White rose solid perfume:
  • 10 drams rose geranium oil
  • 10 drams bergamot oil
  • 1/2 dram patchouli oil
  • 1/2 dram oil of cloves


Lavender Solid Perfume:

  • 2 oz oil of lavender
  • 1 oz essence of bergamot
  • 5 minims oil of cassia
  • 40 minims oil of geranium
  • 5 minims oil of orange
Mix and perfume the wax as before. 


Bouquet Solid Perfume:

  • 18 minims oil of coriander
  • 2 drams oil of cloves
  • 1 dram oil of nutmeg
  • 3 drams oil of lavender 
  • 1 dram oil of sandalwood
  • 1 oz oil of bergamot
  • 1/2 dram otto of rose
  • 1/2 dram oil of geranium
  • 10 minims oil of orange
Mix and perfume the wax as before.


Cologne Solid Perfume:

  • 1 oz essence of bergamot
  • 1 oz essence of lemon
  • 1/2 oz oil of citronella
  • 1/2 oz oil of neroli
  • 80 minims of rosemary
  • 10 minims oil of geranium
Mix.



Ess bouquet solid perfume:
  • 1 dram coriander oil 
  • 7 dram oil of cloves
  • 3.5 dram nutmeg oil 
  • 10 drams lavender oil 
  • 3.5 dram sandal wood oil 
  • 30 drams bergamot oil 
  • 2 drams rose oil 
  • 2 drams rose geranium oil 
  • 0.6 dram neroli oil 

Paints or Rouges for the Skin

Paints or rouges are the means by which the natural color of the skin may be heightened or changed. They are, however, objectionable preparations, and the use of them extends very little beyond the theatres, where they are employed to produce stage effect.

Caution against Bismuth as a Cosmetic. The continued use of bismuth-white injures the skin, and ultimately produces paralysis of its minute vessels, rendering it yellow and leather- like - an effect which, unfortunately, those who employ it generally attempt to conceal by its freer and more frequent application.

French White. This is the mineral talc, or French chalk, finely powdered and bolted. It forms the basis of the most harmless rouges. Perfume is added as may be desired.

Pearl White. Pure oxide or subnitrate of bismuth in powder. This pigment darkens in atmospheres containing sulphide of hydrogen. 1 ounce triturated with 4 ounces of orange-flower water makes liquid white for theatrical use.

Pearl Powder. Precipitated chalk finely bolted and perfumed. The French add oxides of zinc and bismuth, each 1 ounce to the pound of chalk.


Liquid Blanc for Theatrical Use:

The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to
subdue it.

Madame V----, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than
half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus:--

  • Rose or orange-flower water, 1 pint.
  • Oxide of bismuth, 4 oz.

Mixed by long trituration.


Perle Face Powder:


  • French chalk, 1 lb.
  • Oxide of bismuth, 1 oz.
  • Oxide of zinc, 1 oz.


Rose Face Powder:


  • Wheat starch, 7 lbs.
  • Rose Pink, 1/2 drachm.
  • Otto of rose, 2 drachms.
  • Otto of santal, 2 drachms


Bloom Rose:

This is a preparation of carmine for the face and lips. Take a quarter of a dram of carmine and place it in a phial with half a dram of liquid ammonia; keep for a few days, occasionally shaking the mixture; then dilute with two ounces of rose-water, to which half a dram of essence of roses has been added. Draw off and keep a week or ten days, then apply with the corner of a soft handkerchief, taking care that if the color is too bright it is reduced by means of pure water.


Liquid Rouge:

Harmless—a perfect imitation of nature. For ladies who wish to use a little artificial bloom the following is recommended. A liquid rouge to produce a perfect imitation of the colors of nature is prepared as follows: Add to a pint of French brandy, half an ounce of benzoin, an ounce of red sandalwood, half an ounce of Brazil wood and the same quantity of rock alum. Cork the bottle carefully, shake it well once a day, and at the end of twelve days it will be fit for use. The cheeks are to be lightly touched with it.




Colored Collodion for the Skin:

Take:
  • 1 ounce collodion
  • 3 grains each pure annotto 
  • 3 grains dragon's blood
Digest, with agitation, in a stoppered phial, for 24 hours; and, if necessary, decant the clear portion.


Enamel Powder, to make the skin look like Porcelain:

Take equal parts finely scraped talc or French chalk, and pearl-white; sufficient rouge or carmine to slightly tinge it; mix. Used to conceal discolorations; and, without the coloring, to whiten the skin.

Azure Paste:

Talc and ultramarine, finely bolted, equal parts, triturated with a solution of gum tragacanth into a stiff paste

Carmine Rouge:

  • 4 ounces finely bolted talc
  •  2 drachms carmine
Mix together with a little warm and dilute solution of gum tragacanth. For lighter shades, the proportion of carmine must be diminished. For commoner pastes, rose-pink replaces the carmine as coloring matter. It may be made into a pomade.



Celestial Water

Take:

  • 1 ounce Cinnamon
  • 1 ounce Nutmegs
  • 1 ounce Ginger 
  • 1 ounce Zedoary
  • 1 ounce Galangals 
  • 1 ounce White Pepper
  • 6 Lemon peels, pared thin 
  • 2 handfuls Damascene Grapes 
  • 2 handfuls Jujubes 
  • 1 handful Pith of Dwarf-Elder 
  • 4 handfuls Juniper-berries perfectly ripe 
  • 1 handful Fennel-Seeds 
  • 1 handful Flowers of Sweet Basil 
  • 1 handful St. John's-wort
  • 1 handful Rosemary
  • 1 handful Marjoram 
  • 1 handful Pennyroyal
  • 1 handful Stechas
  • 1 handful Musk Roses
  • 1 handful Rue 
  • 1 handful Scabious
  • 1 handful Centaury
  • 1 handful Fumitory 
  • 1 handful Agrimony
  • 2 ounces Spikenard, 
  • 2 ounces Aloes-Wood
  • 2 ounces Grains of Paradise
  • 2 ounces Calamus Aromaticus
  • 2 ounces Mace
  • 2 ounces Gum Olibanum 
  • 2 ounces Yellow Sanders
  • 2 drachms Hepatic Aloes
  • 2 drachms fine Amber 
  • 2 drachms Rhubarb


All these drugs being procured good in their kind, beat in a mortar those that ought to be pulverized, and put the whole, thoroughly mixed together, into a large strong glass alembic; pouring as much genuine brandy upon them as will rife at lead: three nnsers breadth above the ingredients. Then having well closed the mouth of the alembic, bury the vessel fifteen days in warm horsedung, and afterwards distill the Tincture in balneo Marise (Balneo Maraie), the water almost boiling hot. When you perceive the water in the receiver change its colour, instantly stop the process, and separate the phlegm from the spirit, by another di foliation conducted in the fame manner. The liquor thus obtained is the genuine Celestial Water.

Note, when you perceive this second water begin to lose its transparency,. and incline to a reddish colour, put it by in a strong glass bottle closely stopped, and dissolve in the residue half a pound of the best Treacle, with as much Venice Turpentine and fresh Oil of Almonds,. Place the alembic in a land heat, and urge the fire to the first degree, to have the genuine Balsamic Oil, which ought to be of the consistence of clarified Honey.


Lotion de Gowland (Do not attempt)

Take:

  • 1 grains of bichloride of mercury (poison)
  • 1 ounce of emulsion of bitter almonds



Mix well.

Be careful of the bichloride of mercury, because it is a poison. This is one of the best cosmetics for imparting a delicate appearance and softness to the skin, and is a useful lotion in acne, ringworm, hard and dry skin, and sun-blisterings.


Victorian Cold Cream

Take:

  • 10 drachms of spermaceti
  • 4 drachms of white wax
  • half a pound of prepared lard
  • 15 grains of subcarbonate of potash
  • 4 ounces of rose-water,
  • 2 ounces of spirits of wine
  • ten drops of otto of roses


Proceed as above. Some persons prefer orange-flower-water instead of rose-water, in which case use the same proportions.

Cold cream is a useful local application to hard and dry parts of the skin, to abrasions and cracks. When
spread thickly upon rag, it is an excellent application to blistered surfaces or burns, or may be used to protect exposed parts from the influence of the sun.


Cologne du Roi

The following formula has been published by one of the Messrs. Farina, the originators of cologne:


Take:

  • 1/4 oz Benzoin
  • 1/4 oz Oil or Rosemary
  • 1/2 oz Oil of Lavender 
  • 9 pints Strong Alcohol


 Mix, and agitate thoroughly together, and then add successively:

  • 1 oz Oil of Neroli (petits grains)
  • 1 oz Oil of Lemon
  • 2 oz Oil of sweet Orange (Aurantii Dulcis)
  • 2 oz Oil of Limettae (Lime)
  • 2 oz Oil of Bergamot,
  • 2 oz Tinct. Flor. Geranii Rose (Flowers of Rose Geranium) 



Let stand for several weeks a sufficient quantity to impart the desired fragrance. Macerate for several weeks, and fill into flasks.

A.D. Circ., VIII 85. Am. Jour. Pharm., 1864 p 375. I have reduced weights and measures above.


J. Maria Farina Cologne


  • 4 oz Benzoin dissolved in alcohol
  • 8 oz essence of lavender
  • 4 oz essence of rosemary
  • 325 qts alcohol at 75° 


To this solution add succesively:

  • 21 oz neroli
  • 21 oz petit grain
  • 21 oz cedrat
  • 2 1/2 lbs essence of Portugal (probably essential oil of bitter or sweet orange peel)
  • 2 1/2 lbs.lemon
  • 2 1/2 lbs.  alcoholic extract of geranium


Shake several times; leave 14 days, and bottle.

Thursday, August 14, 2014

Fine Aromatic Vinegar

Take:

  • 1 pound of glacial acetic acid
  • 2 ounces rectified spirit
  • 2 1/2 ounces camphor (pure, crushed small)
  • 1 1/2 drachms oil of cloves (finest)
  • 1 drachm oil of rosemary
  • 1/2 drachm oil of bergamot
  • 1/2 drachm oil of cinnamon
  • 1/2 drachm oil of lavender
  • 1/2 drachm oil of pimento
  • 1/2 drachm neroli (or essence de petit-grain)


 Mix (in a stoppered bottle), and agitate until the whole of the camphor is dissolved. Very fine, and highly esteemed.

Aromatic Vinegar

  • 8 ounces Glacial Acetic Acid  
  • 4 ounces Cologne Spirit 
  • 1 ounce Camphor in small pieces 
  • 45 minims Oil of Cloves  
  • 30 minims Oil of Rosemary  
  • 15 minims Oil of Bergamot 
  • 15 minims Oil of Cinnamon 
  • 15 minims Oil of Lavender 
  • 15 minims Oil of Pimento 
  • 15 minims Oil of Neroli 


Mix let stand until the ingredients are dissolved and filter.



Aromatic Vinegar 

This may also be made by mixing a kind of Bulk Perfume with the other ingredients instead of the essential oils:

  • 8 ounces Glacial Acetic Acid 
  • 2 ounces Cologne Spirit 
  • 1 ounce Camphor  
  • 2 ounces Bulk Perfume or Cologne as desired 


Mix dissolve and filter. To use these vinegars, a small quantity is added to a bowl of water and usually applied with a soft sponge.

Vinaigre Virginal


  • Benzoin in powder 2 oz.
  • rectified spirit 8 oz.
  • white vinegar 2 lbs. 


Digest the benzoin in the spirit for 6 days, strain, and add the vinegar to the residue; macerate for 6 days, decant, and add to it the tincture. The next day filter. It is chiefly used as a cosmetic.

The Duchess de la Valliere's Mouth Water

Take:

  • 2 ounces Cinnamon
  • 6 drachms  Cloves, 
  • Water Cress
  • 1 1/2 ounces fresh Lemon Peel
  • 1 ounce Red Rose Leaves
  • 1/2 pound Scurvy Grass, 
  • 3 pints Spirit of Wine


Bruise the Spices, cut the Water Cress and Scurvy Grass small, and macerate the whole in Spirit of Wine, in a bottle well corked, during twenty-four hours ; then distill to dryness in a vapour-bath, and afterwards rectify the distilled Water by repeating the fame process.

This Water strengthens the gums, prevents the scurvy, and cures asthma, or little ulcerations in the mouth.  It is used to gargle the mouth with, either by itself,  or diluted with water, as occasion may require. 

American Dentifrice

Take:


  • Carbonate of magnesia……………………..4 oz
  • Precipitated chalk………………………….8 oz
  • Orris root (powdered)……………………..4 oz
  • Cuttle fish bone (powdered)……………….3 oz
  • Oil of wintergreen………………………….2 drms
  • Extract of musk……………………………2 drms

Otto of Rose Soap


  • 4-1/2 lbs. Curd soap (previously colored with vermilion) 
  • 1 oz. Otto of rose
  • 2 oz.Spirituous extract of musk 
  • 1/4 oz. Otto of santal 
  • 1/4 oz. Otto of geranium 



Mix the perfumes, stir them in the soap shavings, and beat together.


Honey Soap


  • 100 lbs Best yellow soap
  • 14 lbs. Fig soft soap 
  • 1-1/2 lb. Otto of citronella

Cassolettes and Printaniers

Cassolettes and Printaniers are little ivory boxes, of various designs, perforated in order to allow the escape of the odors contained therein. The paste used for filling these "ivory palaces whereby we are made glad," is composed of equal parts of grain musk, ambergris, seeds of the vanilla-pod, otto of roses, and orris powder, with enough gum acacia, or gum tragacantha, to work the whole together into a paste. These things are now principally used for perfuming the pocket or reticule, much in the same way that ornamental silver and gold vinagrettes are used.Cassolette: a box, or vase, with a perforated cover to emit perfumes.

Perfumed Book Markers

We have seen that leather can be impregnated with odoriferous substances, in the manufacture of peau d'Espagne; just so is card-board treated prior to being made up into book-marks. In finishing them for sale, taste alone dictates their design; some are ornamented with beads, others with embroidery.

Various Peau d'Espagne Formulas

Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish Skin, is merely highly-perfumed leather.
Take:
  • 1/2 oz oil of rose
  • 1/2 oz neroli
  • 1/2 oz oil of santal
  • 1/4 oz oil of lavender
  • 1/4 oz oil of verbena
  • 1/4 oz oil of bergamot
  • 2 drachms oil of cloves
  • 2 drachms oil of cinnamon


In this mixture, dissolve 2 ounces gum benzoin. In this steep good pieces of waste leather for a day or two, and dry it over a line.

Prepare a paste by rubbing in a mortar, 1 drachm of civet with 1 drachm of grain musk, and enough gum-tragacanth mucilage to give a proper consistence.

The leather is cut up into pieces about 4 inches square; two of these are pasted together with the above paste, placed between 2 pieces of paper, weighted or pressed until dry. It may then be enclosed in silk or satin.

It gives off its odor for years; is much used for perfuming paper, envelopes, etc.; for which purpose 1 or 2 pieces of the perfumed leather, kept in the drawer or desk containing the paper, will impart to it a fine and durable perfume.


Peau d Espagne #2:
  • Birch Tar Oil 1/32 dr 
  • Rose Oil 3/8 dr 
  • Linalyl Acetate 3/8 dr 
  • Ylang Ylang Oil 3/8 dr 
  • Vanillin 3/8 dr 
  • Lavender Oil 1 dr
  • Zibethin Tincture 2 1/2 dr
  • Tolu Tincture 7 dr
  • Orange Flower 2 oz 
  • Rose 4 oz
  • Jasmine 9 1/4 oz

Perfumed Chaplets (Prayer Beads) and Medallions

To make Chaplets with scented beads and medallions, Take Marechal Powder, and make it into a paste with Mucilage of Gum Tragacanth and Arabic, prepared with wallflower-water. The mould into which it is put mud be rubbed with a little Essence of Jasmine, or of any other sweet-scented herb, to prevent the Paste from sticking. This Paste to colour resembles Coffee.

Sachet a la Frangipanne

Sachet a la Frangipanne:
  • 3 lbs orris root powder
  • 1/4 lb vetiver powder 
  • 1/4 lb santal wood powder
  • 1 drachm otto of neroli
  • 1 drachm otto of rose
  • 1 drachm otto of santal
  • 1 oz ground Musk pods


The name of this sachet has been handed down to us as being derived from a Roman of the noble family of Frangipani. Mutio Frangipani was an alchemist, evidently of some repute, as we have another article called rosolis, or ros-solis, "sun-dew", an aromatic spirituous liquor, used as a stomachic, of which he is said to be the inventor, composed of wine, in which is steeped coriander, fennel, anise, and musk.


Frangipani Sachet #2:
  • 3 pounds Powdered Orris 
  • 1/4 pound Ground Vetiver
  • 1/4 pound Ground Sandalwood
  • 1/4 pound Ground Vanilla Beans
  • 2 ounces Ground Tonka Beans  
  • 60 minims Oil Neroli 
  • 40 minims Oil Sandalwood 
  • 60 minims Oil Bergamot  
  • 60 minims Oil French Geranium 
  • 30 minims Otto Rose 
  • 1 ounce Extract Musk 
  • 1/2 ounce Extract Civet 

Mix well.


Frangipani Sachet #3:

  • 1 lb orris-root 
  • 1 lb rose-leaves
  •  1/4 lb sandalwood
  • 1/4 lb Tonka beans
  • 1 dram musk
  • 1/4 dram civet
  • 1/2 dram essence of roses

Triturate the musk, civet, and essence of roses, and mix with the other substances reduced to a powder.

Cleansing of Combs & Brushes

Nothing is better for cleansing brushes than ammonia; it does not soften the bristles, as soap and soda do. Put a teaspoonful of ammonia into a quart of water, and soak the bristles in the solution (keeping the ivory, bone, or varnished back out of the water). The brush must then be rinsed in fresh water and dried in the air, but not in the sun.

Combs should never be washed. They may be cleansed by passing a coarse thread or card between the teeth. There is also a small brush which is used for cleaning combs.

The greatest cleanliness is necessary for all articles used for dressing the hair.

If you use ammonia in your bath, avoid wetting the hair except when necessary, because ammonia fades the hair.

Lacquer for Toilet Silver


  • 1 pint Methylated spirits
  • 1 ounce Shellac


Put the shellac in a bottle and dissolve with the methylated spirits, cork the bottle tightly, and let it stand for 24 hours, then pour off the clear liquid.

Heat the metal slightly, and paint the solution over it with a camel's-hair brush. Any metal ornament may be lacquered in the same way.

A little of this solution may be added with good results to the powder ordinarily used to clean silverware.

How to Clean Ivory Handled Toilet Articles

Toilet articles and manicure implements which have ivory handles that may have become darkened, may be cleaned by rubbing the handles with half a lemon, which has been dipped in salt. After treating them thus, then wash in warm water, and wipe dry.

To Clean a Swansdown Powder Puff

White swansdown may be washed in soap and water, after washing, shake it out, and when the down is somewhat raised, shake it before a clear fire to dry.



Balm of a Thousand Flowers


  • 1 pint Deodorized Alcohol
  • bar of fine, white soap


Shave the soap when putting it in, let stand in a warm place until dissolved, and then add the following.

  • 1 drachm Oil of Citronella
  • 1/2 drachm Oil of Neroli
  • 1/2 drachm Oil of rosemary 

Erasmus Wilson's Hair Wash

Take:

  • 1/2 oz Rectified spirit
  • 1 oz Honey water
  • 1 oz Spirit of rosemary
  • 1 oz Strong solution of ammonia
  • 1 oz Nut oil
  • 8 oz Distilled water


 Mix. This wash differs from most others of the same nature, in that it does not separate for some time.

Pomade Victoria

This highly-praised and excellent pomade is made in the following way and if so  made, will be found to give a beautiful gloss and softness to the hair:

Quarter of a-pound of honey and half-an- ounce of bees' wax simmered together for a few minutes and then strain.

Add of oil of almonds, lavender, and  thyme, half-a-drachm each.

Be sure to continue stirring  till quite cold, or the honey and wax will separate.

12th Century Hair Bleach

For whitening the hair. Catch as many bees as possible in a new pot and set it to burn, and grind with oil, and then anoint the head.

12th Century Black Hair Dye

If the woman wishes to have long and black hair, take a green lizard and, having removed its head and tail, cook it in common oil. Anoint the head with this oil. It makes the hair long and black.

12th Century Scented Hair Powder

But when she combs her hair, let her have this powder. Take some dried roses, clove, nutmeg, watercress and galangal. Let all these, powdered, be mixed with rose water. With this water let her sprinkle her hair and comb it with a comb dipped in this same water so that her hair will smell better. And let her make furrows in her hair and sprinkle on the above mentioned powder, and it will smell marvelously.

Camphor Soap


  • 28 lbs. Curd soap 
  • 1-1/4 lb. Otto of rosemary 
  • 1-1/4 lb.Otto of Camphor 


Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with the addition of an ounce or more of almond oil, then sift it. When the soap is melted and ready to turn out, add the camphor and rosemary, using the crutch for mixing.

Almond Soap

This soap, by some persons "supposed" to be made of "sweet almond oil,"
and by others to be a mystic combination of sweet and bitter almonds, is
in reality constituted thus:--


  • 100 lbs.Finest curd soap
  • 14 lbs. Finest oil soap
  • 14 lbs Finest marine soap
  • 1-1/2 lb. Otto of almonds
  • 1/4 lb. Otto of cloves
  • 1/2 lb. Otto of caraway


By the time that half the curd soap is melted, the marine soap is to be added; when this is well crutched, then add the oil soap, and finish with the remaining curd. When the whole is well melted, and just before turning it into the frame, crutch in the mixed perfume.

Some of the soap "houses" endeavored to use Mirabane or artificial essence of almonds (see ALMOND) for perfuming soap, it being far cheaper than the true otto of almonds; but the application has proved so unsatisfactory in practice, that it has been abandoned by Messrs. Gibbs, Pineau (of Paris), Gosnell, and others who used it.

Palm Soap

Cut thin two pounds of yellow soap into a double sauce-  pan, occasionally stirring it till it is melted, which will  be in a few minutes if the water is kept boiling around  it.
Then add:

  • quarter of a pound of palm oil
  • quarter of a pound of honey
  • three pennyworth of true oil of cinnamon

Let all boil together another six or eight  minutes ; pour out and stand it by till next day; it is  then fit for immediate use. If made as these directions  it will be found to be a very superior soap.

Cherry Tooth Paste

Take:

  • Otto of roses………………………10 drops
  • Oil of cassia………………………..1/2 drm
  • Oil of cloves………………………..1 drm
  • Orris root, in powder……………….4 oz
  • Cuttle fish…………………………..4 oz
  • Precipitated chalk…………………..4 oz
  • Prepared chalk, in powder…………1 pound
  • Glycerine of borax………………….A sufficiency
  • Liquid cochineal…………………….A sufficiency



 Mix well.

Areca Nut Tooth Paste

Take:


  • 8 oz Precipitated chalk
  • 4 oz Powdered areca nut
  • 2 oz White castile soap
  • 4 oz Powdered orris root
  • 1/2 oz Bole Armenian (finely levigated)
  • 2 ½ fl oz Glycerine
  • 2 ½ fl oz Rose water
  • 4 minims Otto of roses
  • 5 minims Oil of cloves
  • 5 minims Oil of pimento

12th Century Tooth Powder

The teeth are whitened thus. Take burnt white marble and burnt date pits and white natron, a red tile, salt, and pumice. From all of these make a powder in which damp wool has been wrapped in a fine linen cloth. Rub the teeth inside and out. 

Alexandra Bouquet Perfume


  • Bergamot oil 3-1/2 drs 
  • Rose geranium oil 1/2 dr 
  • Rose oil 1/2 dr 
  • Cassia oil 15 ml 
  • Spirit 1 pt 

Rose Sachet Recipes

Rose Sachet #1
  • Orris root 200 parts 
  • Rose leaves 600 parts 
  • Sandalwood 100 parts 
  • Patchouli 100 parts 
  • Rose geranium oil 3 parts 
  • Rose oil 2 parts 

Rose Sachet #2

  • 1/2 pound Powdered Orris 
  • 1 1/2 pound Ground Rose Leaves 
  • 4 ounces Ground Sandalwood 
  • 2 ounces Ground Patchouly 
  • 1/2 ounce Extract Civet  
  • 30 minims Oil French Geranium 
  • 20 minims Otto Rose  

Mix.



Rose Sachet #3:

  • 1 lb Rose hips
  • 1/2 lb powdered sandal wood
  • 1/4 oz. otto of roses



Rose Sachet #4:


  • 8 oz Powdered florentine orris root
  • 10 oz Rose leaves (air dried)
  • 20 grains of powdered Musk 
  • 2 oz Lavender flowers
  • 10 grains of Civet



Rose Scented Sachet Powder


Rose. Powdered starch 3 oz., carmine to colour, otto of roses 3 drops, orris powder 1 oz. Violet. Orris powder 4 oz., essence of bergamot 20 drops, essence of ambergris 20 drops. Poudre de Chypre. Oak-moss is macerated in clean water for a day or two, and strongly pressed in a cloth; it is then moistened with rose-water mixed with a third of orange-flower water for two days, pressed, and pulverized.

It serves as a basis for other perfumes, the power of which it is said to increase. and sandal-wood, each



Esprit de Jasmine Perfume


  • Jasmine extrait 1 pt 
  • Ambergris essence dram 
  • Neroli oil 8 ml
  • Spirit 10 ozs 


Mix. 

Incense Mixtures

Incense Mixture #1.

  • Benzoin 4 ozs 
  • Olibanum 6 ozs 
  • Myrrh 6 ozs 
  • Cascarilla tincture 1 pt 
  • Lavender oil 10 drops 
  • Bergamot oil 20 drops 
  • Clove oil 10 drops 
  • Cinnamon oil 8 drops 



Incense Mixture #2.

  • Olibanum 7 parts 
  • Benzoin 2 parts 
  • Cascarilla tincture 10 parts 


Incense Mixture #3.

  • Olibanum 4 parts 
  • Benzoin 1 part 
  • Liquid Styrax 1 part 
  • Lavender oil 1 part 

Incense Blend #4. 

Mix together:
  • 1 lb olibanum tears
  • 1 1/2 oz powdered benzoin
  • 1 oz powdered cascarilla bark
  • 1/2 oz styrax calamita


Incense Blend #5. 

Mix together:
  • 1 1/4 lb olibanum tears
  • 6 oz benzoin powder
  • 5 oz cascarilla bark powder
  • 2 oz cloves
  • 2 oz cassia

Various Heliotrope Perfumes

Heliotrope #1:
  • Heliotropin 60 parts 
  • Coumarin 3 parts 
  • Peru balsam 5 parts 
  • Vanillin 2 parts 
  • Terpineol 5 parts 
  • Alcohol deodorized 10,000 parts 
  • Water distilled 6,300 parts 


Mix the water and alcohol and dissolve the essences in the mixture.



Heliotrope #2:
  • 120,0 Essence of Vanilla
  • 60,0 Essence of Rose
  • 48,0 Essence of Neroli
  • 4,0 Essence of Amber
  • 5 drops Bitter Almond Oil
Mixed, infused for 7 days, filter.


Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales):

  • 13.5 oz cassie extract
  • 5 oz tincture of ambergris
  • 2.5 oz jasmine extract
  • 5 oz tincture of musk
  • 5 pts rose extract
  • 2.5 pints violet extract
  • 13.5 oz verbena extract
  • 2.5 pints rose essence
  • 4 oz "Heliotropine"
  • 1 dram Musk xylene, 100%


Marquez Heliotrope Extract:
  • Vanilla 6 grams
Triturate and put in 500 grams of alcohol at 85 degrees. Add 90 grams of orange blossom water and leave to macerate for two or three days. Color with cochineal tincture and filter.

Marechale Rose Formulas

Marechal Niel Rose:

In the genus of roses outside of the hundred leaved or rose the Marechal Niel rose  (Rosa Noisetteana Red) also called Noisette rose, and often erroneously tea, is especially conspicuous. Its fine piquant odor delights all lovers of precious perfumes. In order to reproduce the fine scent of this flower artificially at periods when it cannot be had without much expenditure the following recipes will be found useful:

Marechale Rose #1:

  • Infusion rose 1,000 parts 
  • Genuine rose oil 10 parts 
  • Infusion Tolu balsam 150 parts 
  • Infusion genuine musk I 40 parts 
  • Neroli oil parts 
  • Clove oil 2 parts 
  • Infusion tubereuse 1,000 parts 
  • Vanillin 1 part 
  • Coumarin 0.5 parts 

Marechale Rose #2:
  • Triple rose essence 50 grams 
  • Simple rose essence 60 grams 
  • Neroli essence 30 grams
  • Civet essence 20 grams
  • Iris essence 30 grams
  • Tonka beans essence 20 grams 
  • Rose oil 5 drops 
  • Jasmine essence 60 grams
  • Violet essence 50 grams
  • Cassia essence 50 grams
  • Vanilla essence 45 grams
  • Clove oil 20 drops 
  • Bergamot oil 10 drops 
  • Rose geranium oil 20 drops       


Marechale Bouquet:
  • Clove oil 10 ml 
  • Sandalwood oil 10 ml 
  • Musk essence 1 oz 
  • Ambergris essence 1 oz 
  • Neroli spirit 2 ozs 
  • Tonka tincture 2 ozs 
  • Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
  • Orris tincture 2 ozs 
  • Vetiver spirit 2 ozs 
  • Rose spirit 4 ozs 
  • Orange flower extrait 4 ozs 


Bouquet du Marechale:
  • 1 pint Esprit de rose triple
  • 1 pint Extrait de fleur d'orange
  • 1/2 pint Extrait de vetiver 
  • 1/2 pint Extrait de vanilla
  • 1/2 pint Extrait de orris
  • 1/2 pint Extrait de tonka bean
  • 1/2 pint Esprit de neroli
  • 1/4 pint Extract of musk
  • 1/4 pint Extract of ambergris
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of cloves
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of sandalwood

Bouquet de Marechale:

  • 1 pint extract of rose
  • 1 pint extract of orange flower
  • 1 pint tincture of vetiver
  • 1/4 pint tincture of Tonquin
  • 1/4 pint tincture of orris
  • 1 dram oil of neroli
  • 1/2 dram oil of vetiver
  • 4 oz rose water, triple


Bouquet a la Marechale:

  • Tincture of ambergris 1/2 pint 
  • Tincture of musk 1/2 pint 
  • Extract of neroli 1 pint 
  • Extract of orange flower 1 qt 
  • Tincture of tonka 1 pint 
  • Tincture of vanilla 1 pint 
  • Tincture of orris root 1 pint 
  • Essence of vetiver 1 pint 
  • Essence of rose triple 1 qt 
  • Oil of clove 75 grains 
  • Oil of santal 75 grains 


Eau de Marechale
  • Spirit of wine 1 1/2 pint
  • Spirit of jessamine 1 oz
  • Essence of bergamot 1/4 oz.
  • Essence of violets 1 oz

Eau de Marechale #2:

  • 1 ounce essence of violets
  • 1/4 ounce oil of bergamot
  • 1/4 ounce oil of cloves
  • 1/2 pint orange-flower water
  • 1 pint rectified spirit

Mix. An agreeable and favorite perfume.



Midland Counties Bouquet Perfume


  • Jasmine extrait 4 ozs 
  • Rose otto 1-1/2 drs 
  • Bergamot oil 4 drs 
  • Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
  • Musk essence 2 ozs 
  • Violet extrait 2 ozs 
  • Rectified spirit 16 ozs 


Mix all but the spirit and after standing fourteen days add the spirit and filter. 

Maids of Honor Bouquet Perfume


  • Clove oil 1-1/2 drs 
  • Nutmeg oil 1-1/2 drs 
  • Sandalwood oil 2 drs 
  • Lavender oil 1/2 oz 
  • Rose oil 1 dr 
  • Ylang ylang oil 1/2 dr 
  • Tonka bean tinct 1 oz 
  • Musk essence 1-1/2 ozs 
  • Bergamot oil 1-1/2 ozs 
  • Millefleurs 2 ozs 
  • Verbena spirit 3 ozs 
  • Spirit 4-1/2 pts 


Mix. 

Magnolia Blossom Perfume


  • Lemon oil 5 ml 
  • Essential almond oil 10 ml 
  • Orange flower extrait 3-1/2 ozs 
  • Rose extrait 7 ozs 
  • Spikenard extrait 14 drs 
  • Violet extrait 14 drs 


Mix set aside for several days and filter. 

Various Ylang Ylang Formulas

Ylang Ylang # 1.

  •  Ylang ylang oil 10 ml
  •  Otto rose 2 ml 
  • Neroli oil 10 ml 
  • Musk essence 1/2 oz 
  • Jasmine extrait 2 ozs 
  • Orange flower water 2 drs 
Mix.

Ylang Ylang #2.

  • Neroli oil 6 ml 
  • Lemon oil 6 ml 
  • Rose oil 15 ml 
  • Ylang ylang oil 50 ml 
  • Musk essence dr 
  • Spirit 2 pts 
Mix.


Ylang Ylang #3.


  • Niobe Oil 1/16 dr
  • Musk 1/16 dr
  • Benzaldehyde 1/16 dr
  • Cananga Oil 3/16 dr
  • Linalyl Acetate 1 1/4 dr
  • Terpineol 1 1/2 dr
  • Ylang Ylang Oil 1 5/8 dr
  • Benzoin Tincture 2 1/2 dr
  • Cassie 9 dr
  • Jonquil 3 oz
  • Orris Tincture 3 1/2 oz
  • Tuberose 3 1/2 oz
  • Jasmine 5 oz



Various Cherry Blossom Formulas

Cherry Blossom #1.
  • White heliotrope essence 6 ozs 
  • Vanilla essence 1 dr 
Mix.


Cherry Blossom #2.
  • Peach blossom essence 12 ozs 
  • Violet extrait 2 ozs 
  • Mirbane essence 2 ozs 
Mix.


Cherry Blossom Extract #3:
  • Extract jasmine 3 pts 
  • Extract tuberose 1 1/2 pts 
  • Extract cassia i8ozs 
  • Extract rose 1 2 ozs 
  • Essence rose 12 ozs 
  • Tincture coumarin 6 ozs 
  • Tincture civet 6 ozs 
  • Oil bergamot 1 oz 
  • Oil rose geranium 1 oz 
  • Oil neroli 1 dr 
  • Oil rose synthetic 1 dr 
  • Oil cardamon 1 dr 


Cherry Blossom Extract #4:
  • Ambepine 3 to 10 drops 
  • Anethol 1 drop 
  • Oil bitter almonds 15 drops 
  • Oil fennel 15 drops 
  • Oil bergamot 15 drops 
  • Oil neroli 75 drops 
  • Acetic ether 45 drops 
  • Vanillin 30 grs 
  • Coumarin 5 grs 
  • Tincture musk 6 drs 
  • Tincture Siam benzoin 2 1/2 ozs 
  • Tincture stronger orris 8 ozs 
  • Essence rose (3d washing) 15 ozs 
  • Alcohol 4 ozs 



Cherry Blossom #5:
  • White heliotrope essence 6 ozs 
  • Vanilla essence 1 dr 


Cherry Blossom #6:
  • Peach blossom essence 12 ozs 
  • Violet extract 2 ozs 
  • Mirbane essence 2 ozs 


Cherry Blossom Perfume #7:
  • Essence of peach blossom 840 
  • Essence of violet 140 
  • Essence of bitter almonds (1 to 9) 20 

Buckingham Bouquet Perfume

  • Lavender oil 10ml
  • Neroli oil 10 ml 
  • Rose oil 20 ml 
  • Cassia extrait 8 ozs 
  • Jasmine extrait 8 ozs 
  • Orange flower extrait 8 ozs 
  • Rose extrait 8 ozs 
  • Ambergris essence 4 ozs 
  • Orris tincture 4 ozs 


Mix. 

Various Night Blooming Cereus Formulas

Night Blooming Cereus #1:
  • Civet essence 2 ozs 
  • Tonka bean tincture 2 ozs 
  • Benzoin tincture 4 ozs 
  • Rose spirit 4 ozs 
  • Jasmine extrait 4 ozs 
Mix.



Extract of Night Blooming Cereus
  • 1 pint extract of tuberose
  • 1 pint extract of rose
  • 1/2 pint  extract of violet
  • 1/2 pint extract of jasmine
  • 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
  • 2 oz tincture of benzoin
  • 2 oz tincture of musk
  • 1 dram oil of nutmeg
  • 1 dram oil of santal
  • 1 dram oil of neroli
  • 1/2 dram oil of almonds
  • 8 oz orange flower water


Extract Night Blooming Cereus #2:
  • 8 parts Triple Extract Rose 
  • 2 parts Triple Extract Orange Flower 
  • 2 parts Essence Neroli  
  • 2 parts  Extract Vanilla 
  • 3 parts Extract Orris  
  • 1 Part  Extract Musk 
  • 1 Part  Extract Civet 
  • 1/10 Part Essence Almond 
  • 1/20 part Tincture Benzoin 
Mix. Taken from Fenner's Complete Formulary, 1888.


Night Blooming Cereus #3:

  • Tincture of tuberose 10 ounces 
  • Tincture of rose 6 ounces 
  • Tincture of jasmine 3 ounces 
  • Tincture of violet 3 ounces 
  • Tincture of vanillin 1 1/2 ounces 
  • Tincture of coumarin 1 1/2 ounces 
  • Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 1 ounce 
  • Oil of neroli Portugal 30 minims 

Mix and filter if necessary. 

Saratoga Nosegay Perfume

 A refreshing perfume for the handkerchief resembling but excelling Mona bouquet.


  • Musk essence 4 ozs 
  • Bergamot oil 1-1/2 drs 
  • Jasmin extract 2 ozs 
  • English lavender oil 1-1/2 dr 
  • Neroli oil 4 dr 
  • Patchouli oil 5 ml 
  • Pimenta oil 5 ml 
  • Rose oil 1-1/2 drs 
  • Verbena oil 8 ml 
  • Cassia oil 5 ml 
  • Alcohol to 4 pts 


Macerate one month then filter three times. 

Victoria Regia Perfume


  • 20 oz Extract of tuberose  
  • 16 oz Extract of jasmine 
  • 4 oz Extract of neroli 
  • 4 oz Extract of rose 
  • 4 oz Extract of acacia flowers
  • 3 oz vanilla 
  • 1 oz Essence of civet 
  • 1 oz Oil of bergamot  
  • 5 drops bitter almonds 

Alpine Rose Perfume


  • 16 oz Essence Bouquet
  • 12 oz Triple extract of rose 
  • 12 oz Extract of jasmin 
  • 12 oz Extract of reseda
  • 4 oz Essence of ambergris  
  • 2 oz Essence of civet 

HMS Pinafore Bouquet Perfume


  • 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
  • 12 oz Extract of violets 
  • 8 oz Extract of neroli 
  • 1 oz Extract of musk 
  • 1/4 oz Oil of bergamot 
  • 1/8 oz Oil of citron 
  • 40 drops Oil of cardamom 
  • 20 drops Oil of melissa
  • 20 drops Oil of coriander 
  • 10 drops Oil of thyme 

Pinafore Bouquet 
  • Oil of coriander 
  • Oil of thyme 
  • Oil of melissa 
  • Oil of cardamoms 
  • Oil of citron 
  • Oil of bergamot 
  • Essence of musk 
  • Spirit of neroli 
  • Violet extrait 
  • Spirit of rose

Flowers of Love Perfume


  • 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
  • 14 oz Extract of jasmine 
  • 12 oz Extract of acacia flowers 
  • 4 oz Extract of orange flowers 
  • 4 oz Extract of tuberose 
  • 4 oz Extract of hyacinth 
  • 2 oz Extract of jonquil 
  • 2 oz Extract of vanilla 
  • 1-1/2 oz Essence of ambergris  


Rose of the East Perfume


  • 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
  • 12 oz Extract of moss rose 
  • 1/8 oz Oil of sandalwood
  • 1/8 oz Oil of rose geranium 
  • 1/16 oz Oil of ylang ylang 

Florilene Bouquet Perfume


  • 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
  • 8 oz Extract of tuberose 
  • 8 oz Extract of violets
  • 4 oz Extract of heliotrope  
  • 4 oz Extract of orange flowers 
  • 3 oz Extract of verbena
  • 2 oz Extract of musk 
  • 2 oz Essence of ambergris 
  • 1 oz Essence of bergamot  

Modjeska Bouquet Perfume


  • 16 oz Extract of jonquil 
  • 16 oz Extract of reseda 
  • 16 oz Extract of  tuberose 
  • 12 oz Extract of cassia flowers 
  • 12 oz Extract of violets 
  • 2 oz Essence of musk 
  • 1/2 oz Oil of bergamot 
  • 1/2 oz Oil of ylang ylang
  • 1/4 oz otto of rose 
  • 1/4 oz otto of lavender