Perfumes, Toilet Waters & Colognes

GODEY'S LADY'S BOOK
Philadelphia, February 1850




PERFUMES.

From the time that myrrh and frankincense were indispensable to many Jewish ceremonies, we have accounts in history of the use of perfumes among all nations. The luxurious Cleopatra had her scented bath; the elegant Athenian finished his toilet with the delicate ointment compounded of roses and violets; and, down to our own times, the love of perfumes is found among all classes and in every civilized country.

We do not object to their use – far from it – but their abuse is so frequent and so disagreeable to delicate olfactories, that we have thought to offer a few rules for the guidance of oar lady friends.

The consideration of the subject was forced upon us, not long ago, at the reading of Hamlet by Mrs. Butler, at the Sansom Street Hall. All who were there, will remember that the house was crowded, and the air necessarily confined. Close to us sat a badly attired lady, whose gaping dress, shining oily hair, and coarse gloves did not speak much for her refinement. Involuntarily, "a shudder took us," and we retreated as far as possible from her neighborhood. But what was the play, if we could not see the animated face of the reader? And to do this, it was necessary to lean very near the lady in question. Presently, the heat of the room drew forth her handkerchief. It was saturated with bouquet de Caroline; and, with every fresh movement, the overpowering odor was wafted towards us. " Whereat," as Trincolo says, in the Tempest, "our nose was in great indignation." But there was no help for it; and, as our neighbor was not the only lady who had availed herself freely of Roussel's extracts, the air was heavy and surely unwholesome before the end of the second act.

As a first principle, all decided or strong odors are in bad taste. What is a perfume, but the counterfeit breath of sweet flowers; and nature rarely overdoes her work, in making that addition to their loveliness so obvious as to be disagreeable. To be used successfully, then, all extracts should be like the faint breath of flowers, floating lightly on the air, but never burdening it. Resides, many people dislike peculiar perfumes so much – such as otto of rose, musk, or patchouli, once so fashionable – as to be absolutely faint by coming in contact with them. Charity – with this in view – would dictate a sparing use of what is not essential to our own comfort.

We once knew an old lady who adopted a very ingenious method to rid herself of annoyance in the shape of musk, which her granddaughter was very fond of using to an unlimited extent. The young lady had an equal dislike to ether – so called – which had been recommended to "grandmamma" for some nervous affection. Knowing this, her ammunition was provided; and the next Sunday, when Mademoiselle shook out her perfumed handkerchief at "meeting," what was her horror at finding it overpowered by a flask of ether, which was produced from the old lady's pocket. Frowns and remonstrances were of no avail. "So long as thee will use musk, Emma, I shall resort to an antidote; for it brings on my nervous attacks meet unaccountably." And finally a truce was established, and Miss Emma's musk was locked up with grandmamma's ether.

We have known a whole box of ladies at the theatre grow ill, by the plentiful use of otto of rose made by one of their party; and, to this day, patchouli has a similar effect upon ourselves.



Perfumes, in old times, were divided into two kinds. The first, or thicker sort, were compounded into a kind of ointment – often almost invaluable in price – and put up in costly boxes and vases (sometimes of alabaster), as the well-known instance described in the Gospels. The use of liquid perfumes was considered as effeminate, or voluptuous; but grave senators and sober matrons indulged in the first without reproach. Grecian ladies considered them indispensable appendages to the toilet; and those who prepared and sold them were among the most petted and successful artisans in ancient Rome.

Perfumes are extracted principally from flowers, seeds, roots, and woods, with the rinds of odoriferous fruits. Besides these, we have musk, which is the product of a little creature (moschus moschiferus) native to Thibet and Tonquin. It is originally a viscid fluid, but dries to a hard brown substance that is easily pulverized. It is very costly; but a small quantity is sufficient to scent a large stock of perfumery.

Civet is similar to musk, but is used only to stimulate or strengthen other perfumes.

The present taste of the day seems to have fixed on extracts of flowers in the form of eau spiriteuse; and Lubin, of Paris, and Roussel, in our own city, have excelled in these delicate preparations. The extrait or esprit of roses, violets, mignonette, jessamine, orange-flowers, acacia, tuberose, and lavender are, beyond question, the most exquisite of all perfumes; and an agreeable variety is produced by a judicious mixture of several here enumerated. Eau de cologne – so called from the name of the city most celebrated in its manufacture – is composed of several fine extraits diluted with pure alcohol.



Now, either of these, when moderately used, are agreeable to most people; but a handkerchief saturated with coarse eau de cologne, or a strong essential oil, marks at once a person as possessing very little good taste. We have always found the following the best method: Procure a quantity of poudres aux fleurs– which is common hair powder scented with flowers, and is to be procured at any perfumer's – fold it in an envelop so that it cannot escape, and lay it in the drawer appropriated to laces, gloves, handkerchiefs, etc., which will acquire from it that faint, scarce perceptible odor which is so pleasing.

Scented French glove-boxes are sufficient in themselves, sometimes, for all necessary purposes; and, if a liquid be used, let it be as sparingly as possible. In a future paper, we may have something to say of cosmetics generally; but at present we only seek to impress upon our lady. friends the truth of the old proverb as applied to perfumes –" Too much of a good thing is good for nothing."

Perfumes, if used at all, should be used in the strictest moderation, and be of the most recherche kind. Musk and patchouli should always be avoided, as, to many people of sensitive temperament, their odor is exceedingly disagreeable. Cologne water of the best quality is never offensive.



How to Prepare Essences and Perfumed Spirits. 

The scented spirits of the perfumer are merely alcoholic solutions of the aromatic and odorous principles of the substances they represent, obtained in one or other of the following ways:- By simply adding essential oil or other odoriferous matter to the spirit, and agitating them together until solution is complete. Occasionally the resulting alcoholic solution is distilled. 

By macerating or digesting the ingredients (previously bruised or pulverized) in the spirit, with frequent agitation, for a few days, when the resulting tincture is either decanted and filtered (if necessary), or the whole is thrown into a still, and submitted to distillation by a gentle heat. In the former case, the spirit retained in the pores of the solid ingredients, and which, consequently, cannot be drawn off, is obtained by powerful pressure. (See Nos. 39 (Maceration) and 40.) By digesting the spirit, with frequent agitation on highly scented pomade or oil, in a close vessel, at a gentle heat for some hours, and the next day decanting the perfumed spirit. (See No. 40 (Digestion).) 

Distillation is only applicable to substances of which the fragrant principles are volatile, and readily pass over with the spirit during the process. Thus, flowers, flowering tops, herbs, seeds, etc., may, in general, be so treated; but not musk, ambergris, vanilla, and a few other substances, of which the odor is of a more fixed nature. (See No. 13 (Distillation).)



In proceeding by distillation, one of the first points to be attended to is, to see that the still, condensing-worm, or refrigerator, and the receiver, be perfectly clean and sweet, and absolutely free from the odor of any previous distillation. The lute employed to secure the still-head or capital to the still must also be of a simple character, incapable of conveying any taint to the hot vapor that comes in contact with it. (Linseed-meal or equal weights of linseed-meal and whiting, made into a stiff paste or dough with water, is a good lute for the purpose. Sweet almond-cake meal is still better.) 

The most convenient and manageable source of heat is high-pressure steam supplied from an adjacent boiler, the body of the still being enclosed in a steam-jacket for the purpose. A water-bath, the boiling-point of which should be raised by the addition of about 1/4 its weight of common salt, comes next in point of convenience and effect. When the still is exposed to the heat of a naked fire, or that of dry flues, a little water must be put into it along with the spirit and other ingredients, to prevent empyreuma; and the greatest care must be taken to stop the process, and to remove the receiver, as soon as the proper quantity of distillate is obtained. If this be neglected, the odor of the whole may be vitiated. 

Moderately rapid distillation is favorable to the odor of the product, as is also the elevation of the boiling-point in the liquid operated on. Spirit, distilled from aromatics decreases in odor with the boiling-point of the ingredients in the still. To raise the latter, the addition of 1 to 11/2 pounds of common salt per gallon is often advantageously made. (See Nos. 5 (Water Bath, or Bain-Marie), 6 and 7.) By one or other of the above methods, or a combination of them, are, in general, prepared all the "eaux," "esprits," and "extraits," of the perfumers.



As a rule, extraits and essences are preferred to eaux and esprits as the basis of good perfumery, when the color is not objectionable. Whatever process is adopted, the utmost care must be taken in the selection of the spirit used. Only spirit that is absolutely pure, flavorless, and scentless, must be employed, if we desire the product to be of fine quality. Malt-spirit or corn-spirit contaminated, even in the very slightest degree, with fusel-oil or corn-oil, or a whiskey-odor, is utterly unfit for the purpose. So also the refined methylated spirit now so commonly and fraudulently sold as spirit of wine. The extreme purity of the spirit employed by the French manufacturing perfumers - it being actually spirit of wine, and not merely so in name - is one of the reasons why their odoriferous spirits are so much superior to those of the American houses. 

Great care must also be taken in the selection of the essential oils intended to be employed in making perfumed spirits. These should be pure or genuine, and should be pale and recent, or of the last season's distillation. If they be old, or have been much exposed to the air, they will contain more or less resin, and their alcoholic solution will be defective in fragrance, and be liable to permanently stain delicate articles of clothing to which it may be applied. The strength of the spirit used for concentrated essences, as a rule, should not be less than 90 per cent., or of the specific gravity .8332. A few require a spirit of even greater strength than this. 

The first quality of extraits, particularly those prepared from pomades and oils, and many of the eaux and esprits, also require 90 per cent. spirit. The strength of the spirit for the others, and for second qualities (commonly sold as the best in the stores), must be fully 75 per cent., or of the specific gravity .8765; that of the third quality fully 70 per cent., or specific gravity .8892; and that of the fourth quality fully proof, or specific gravity .920. 

The last is the lowest quality, and the weakest of any kind made by respectable perfumers; but the double distilled lavender-water, eau de Cologne, and other scents, vended in little showy bottles, by the druggists, and in fancy-stores, are commonly even much weaker than this, being often under proof. (See No. 1435.) The capacity of spirit, at this strength, of dissolving essential oil and other odorous matter is, however, very little. The solvent power of spirit decreases with its strength, but much more rapidly. (Cooley.)


Essences. 

The term essence is generally very loosely applied to a preparation of almost any kind, that is supposed to contain in a high degree the essential or distinctive principle or quality of some substance. Thus, the essential or volatile oils obtained from vegetable substances by distillation; concentrated infusions, decoctions, aqueous solutions, and tinctures, are all often erroneously termed essences.

In perfumery the word " essence" is applied only to a solution of an essential oil in deodorized alcohol, in the proportion, usually, of 2 drachms to 2 ounces of the essential oil to 1 quart of rectified spirits. Sometimes an essence, using the term in its correct sense, is distilled, with the addition of a little water; it is then called distilled aromatic spirits.

Essences of Flowers. 

The essences of those flowers which are not separately given in this work, may be made by one or other of the following general formulae. Take of essential oil (of the respective flowers), 1 ounce avoirdupois, and rectified spirit 90 per cent. 1 pint (Imperial); dissolve as directed for " Essence of Almonds." Or, take of the (respective) flowers, 3 to 5 pounds; proof spirit, 2 gallons; digest for a few days, and then draw over, by distillation, 1 gallon of essence. For those flowers that are not strongly fragrant, the product may be distilled a second and a third time, or even oftener, from fresh flowers, as noticed under " Essence of Roses." 

The products obtained by distillation are always colorless; and hence flowers rich in color may, in general, be advantageously so treated. The flowers should be selected when in their state of highest fragrance; and should be picked to pieces, or crushed or bruised, as their nature may indicate. With many, the last is facilitated by the addition of some clean sand or common salt. Or, proceed in the way described under "Essence of Tuberose." This applies to most of those flowers that contain little fragrant oil, and of which the odor is extremely delicate. 

A small quantity of some other odorous essence or volatile oil is commonly added to the simple essences of flowers, at will, to enrich or modify the fragrance, each manufacturer usually pursuing his own taste in the matter. In some cases, spirit is impregnated with a combination of essential oils and other odorous substances, so as to produce, artificially, an odor resembling or approaching that of the particular flowers after which the products are named; although there may be none of the respective flowers employed in their preparation. This is particularly the case with flowers of which the odorous principle is difficult or troublesome to extract, or which possess very little of it. So also of the essences of many flowers having strange or attractive names, and no true fragrance. Hence arises the almost endless variety of fragrant essences, esprits, and similar preparations, vended by the perfumers of the present day, numbers of which are mere artificial combinations of other perfumes. (Cooley.)




The fixed oil that usually forms the basis of the simple scented oils of the perfumer, is that of. almonds, ben (moringa), or olives; but other bland vegetable oils are occasionally used, particularly for inferior qualities. In Prance, three different modes are adopted for imparting fragrance to these oils.


Perfumed Oils by the Addition of Essential Oils, or Alcoholic Essences.

By the simple addition of a sufficient quantity of the essential oil of the plant, or of the concentrated alcoholic essence of the substance, if it does not furnish an oil, followed by agitation; the whole being then allowed to repose for a few days, and, if any sediment falls (which should not be the case if the ingredients are pure), the clear portion decanted or poured off into another bottle.

In the case of alcoholic essences, it is better that the fixed oil should be gently warmed by placing the bottle or vessel (a well-tinned bottle or can with a suitable mouth and neck for corking, is the best and most convenient for the purpose,) for a short time in a water-bath, before adding them, and then, after tightly and firmly securing with a cork, to agitate it until cold or nearly so.

In general, 1 to 11/2 drachms of a pure essential oil, or 3 to 4 fluid drachms of a concentrated essence, is sufficient to render 1 pint of fixed oil agreeably fragrant; but in some cases, and for the best quality, an additional 1/2 drachm, or more, of the one, and 1 to 2 fluid drachms of the other, will be required. 1/2 drachm pure attar of roses, owing to the very powerful character of its odor, is sufficient for the purpose.

Oils of ambergris, bergamot, cassia, cinnamon, cloves, lavender, lemons, millefleurs, musk, neroli, nutmeg, orange-flowers, roses, and all other similar scented oils, may bo thus made. The above are chiefly employed as hair cosmetics, with, in most cases, trifling additions of other essential oils or essences, to modify and improve their odor. Some of them are also colored. (Cooley.)
 

Perfumed Oils by Infusion.

"Dry substances, after being reduced to coarse powder (but free from dust), or sliced very small; flowers or petals, after being carefully selected, picked from the stems and other scentless portions, and pulled to pieces; and soft, unctuous, and resinous matters, as ambergris, musk, civet, resins, and balsams, after.being rubbed to a paste with a little of the oil (either with or without the addition of about twice or thrice their weight of clean siliceous sand or powdered glass, to facilitate the reduction), are digested in the fixed oil, for an hour or two, in a covered vessel, at a gentle heat obtained by means of a water-bath, frequent stirring or agitation being employed all the time.

The vessel is then removed from the bath, and set aside (for flowers) until the next day, or (for other substances) for 5 to 7 days, to settle, when the clear portion is carefully decanted into a clean bottle, or bottles. With ambergris, civet, musk, and vanilla, the digestion, with frequent agitation, is usually continued for at least 3 weeks; and exposure of the vessel in the sun, or in some equally warm situation, is generally substituted for the heat of a water-bath.

When flowers are employed, the free oil is allowed to drain off, and the remainder is obtained by the action of a press. The two portions being mixed, fresh flowers are added to the oil, and the whole process is repeated; and this again, with fresh flowers, 5 or 6 times, or oftener, until the oil is sufficiently fragrant." {Cooley.)

For the extraction of perfume from rose leaves, from scented woods, from bark, from gums, there appears to be nothing better than glycerine, and this use of it is constantly on the increase, as the most delicate odors are perfectly preserved in it.
 

Perfumed Oils by Enfleurage.

A series of shallow iron frames, adapted for piling on each other, and fitting close together, being provided, a piece of white, spongy cotton-cloth is stretched upon each, and is then freely moistened with oil of almonds, olives, or ben. On the cloth is next laid a thin layer of the fresh-plucked flowers, and each frame, as thus covered, is placed on the preceding one, until a compact pile of them is raised. In 24 to 30 hours the flowers are replaced by fresh ones; and this is repeated every day, or every other day, until 7 or 8 different lots of flowers have been consumed, or the oil has become sufficiently charged with their odor.

The cotton-cloths are then carefully collected and submitted to powerful pressure, and the expressed oil which flows from them is placed aside in corked bottles or jars, to settle. After some time it becomes perfectly clear, and is then ready to be decanted into other bottles for store or sale. Sometimes trays with perforated bottoms, on which are laid thin layers of cotton-wool slightly moistened with the oil, are substituted for the frames and cotton-cloth above referred to.

Sometimes, also, sheep's wool or cotton wool impregnated with oil, is stratified with flowers in a large earthen vessel, and this, after being closely covered up, is kept for 10 or 12 hours gently heated by means of a water-bath. The next day the old flowers are replaced by fresh ones, and the whole process repeated again and again, as often as necessary. The oil is finally obtained by pressure from the wool, as before.

When only a moderate degree of aroma is required in the oil, the flowers may be crushed in a mortar or a mill, with one-half their weight of blanched sweet almonds, and the next day, or the second day after, according to the weather, the mass, after being slightly warmed, may be submitted to the press. After about a week's repose, the upper portion, which is the perfumed oil, may be decanted, and, if necessary, filtered. This plan is occasionally adopted in this country for "Oil of Roses," and a few other flowers, intended for the hair. (Cooley.)
 

To make Attar of Roses

Gather the flowers of the hundred-leaved rose (rosa centifolia), put them in a large jar or cask, with just sufficient water to cover them, then put the vessel to stand in the sun, and in about a week afterwards the attar - a butyraceous oil - will form a scum on the surface, which should be removed by the aid of a piece of cotton.


To Extract the Essence of Any Flower

Take any flowers you choose; place a layer in a clean earthen pot, and over them a layer of fine salt. Repeat the process until the pot is filled, cover closely, and place in the cellar. Forty days afterwards, strain the essence from the whole through a crape by pressure. Put the essence thus expressed in a clear bottle, and expose for six weeks in the rays of the sun and evening dew to purify. One drop of this essence will communicate its odor to a pint of water.
 

Eau de Cologne:

In preparing eau de Cologne, it is essential that the spirit be of the purest description, both tasteless and scentless, and that the oils be not only genuine, but recently distilled; as old oils, especially if they have been exposed to the air, are less odorous, and contain a considerable quantity of resin and camphor, which would prove injurious. French spirit of 90 per cent, should be used in the manufacture of eau de Cologne, and when a weaker spirit is employed, the essential oils must be dissolved in a small quantity of 90 or 95 per cent, spirit. Should the mixture afterwards prove turbid, filter it through paper with a little carbonate of magnesia.To produce an article of the finest quality, distillation should be had recourse to; but a very excellent eau de Cologne may be produced by simple solution or maceration of the ingredients in the spirit, provided all the essences be new, pale-colored, and pure.

The mass of the eau de Cologne prepared in America, some of which possesses the most delicate fragrance, and is nearly equal to the beat imported, is made without distillation.




COLOGNES AND TOILET WATERS - Fenner's Complete Formulary:

Colognes are fragrant compounds of much less strong and permanence of odor than the foregoing Extracts.

In addition to their legitimate use as toilet waters they now take the place, to a large extent, of the cheaper grades of perfumes that were formerly sold.

As with the Handkerchief Extracts, the combinations that may be made are almost infinite, though but few have ever met with great public favor.

The formulae which follow represent those most widely known and esteemed as Colognes; but, as any of the Handkerchief Extracts may be made into Colognes, by following the "General Cologne Formula" the druggist may choose such as suits his fancy, and have as large a variety as he pleases.

 Colognes prepared from the Handkerchief Extracts may also be put up as cheap perfumes; the grades that the druggist wishes to prepare may be regulated by the amount of Cologne Spirit added.

 For second grade perfumes, taking Handkerchief Extract 1 part, Cologne Spirit 1 part.

For third grade perfumes, taking Handkerchief Extract 1 part, Cologne Spirit 2 parts, and for Colognes the following General Cologne Formula: Handkerchief Extract 1 part, Cologne Spirit 3 parts, Water (distilled) q. s.

Mix the Extract with two and a half parts of the Cologne Spirit and add Water gradually until, when shaken up, it remains after standing a short time, just a trifle cloudy or milky, then add the balance of the Cologne Spirit, and set away for a month or more before using.

These Colognes may be named from the Extracts of which they are made, as White Rose Cologne, Marie Stewart Cologne, Upper Ten Cologne, etc., and the druggist may have no lack of cheaper grades of perfumes and Colognes by following these directions.



TOILET WATERS - Fenner's Complete Formulary:

Toilet Waters as they are known in the market are not as their name would indicate, Waters, but solution of essential oils or odorous principles in Alcohol or a partly Alcoholic liquid, prepared either by solution or distillation. These are known as Eau de Cologne, Eau de Lavande, Eau de Violette, etc., and have been noticed under Perfumes and other headings. The name is also applied in a general way to perfumed Waters and spirits made by distilling herbs and odorous substances with Water or a diluted Alcoholic liquid; but as these have been already noticed under other headings as Aquae Spiritus, etc., further formulae will be unnecessary. The foregoing formulas comprise most of the Toilet Preparations and Perfumes that are popular or on the market, and all that it is expedient or desirable for druggists to prepare. If it is intended to engage extensively in the manufacture of perfumes and like articles, many other formulas would be required, for which the reader is referred to comprehensive works on perfumery, soap making, etc.

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