Vervaine Sachet

• 1 lb dried and ground Lemon peel  
• 1/4 lb lemon thyme
• 1 dram otto of lemon-grass
• 1/2 oz otto of lemon-peel
• 1 oz otto of bergamot

Parrish's Best Cologne

Mix together:

• 2 fluid ounces oil of bergamot
• 2 fluid drachms oil of neroli
• 1/2 fluid ounce oil of jasmin
• 2 fluid drachms oil of garden lavender
• 1 minim oil of cinnamon
• 3 fluid ounces benzoated tincture
• 1/2 fluid ounce oil of musk
• 1 gallon deodorized alcohol
• 2 pints rose-water

The mixture should stand a long time before filtering for use.

Bouquet de Montpellier Perfume

• 1 pint Extrait de tubereuse
• 1 pint Extrait de rose de pomade
• 1 pint Extrait de rose triple
• 1/4 pint Extract of musk
• 1/4 pint Extract of ambergris
• 1 1/2 drachm Otto of cloves
• 1/2 oz Otto of bergamot

Harmony of Colors in Dress

THE selection and proper arrangement of colors, so that they will produce the most pleasant harmony, is one of the most desirable requisites in dress. Sir Joshua Reynolds says: "Color is the last attainment of excellence in every school of painting." The same may also be said in regard to the art of using colors in dress. Nevertheless, it is the first thing to which we should give our attention and study.

We put bright colors upon our little children; we dress our young girls in light and delicate shades; the blooming matron is justified in adopting the warm, rich hues which we see in the autumn leaf, while black and neutral tints are declared appropriate to the old.

One color should predominate in the dress; and if another is adopted, it should be in a limited quantity and only by way of contrast or harmony. Some colors may never, under any circumstances, be worn together, because they produce positive discord to the eye. If the [Pg 342]dress be blue, red should never be introduced by way of trimming, or vice versa. Red and blue, red and yellow, blue and yellow, and scarlet and crimson may never be united in the same costume. If the dress be red, green maybe introduced in a minute quantity; if blue, orange; if green, crimson. Scarlet and solferino are deadly enemies, each killing the other whenever they meet.

Two contrasting colors, such as red and green, may not be used in equal quantities in the dress, as they are both so positive in tone that they divide and distract the attention. When two colors are worn in any quantity, one must approach a neutral tint, such as gray or drab. Black may be worn with any color, though it looks best with the lighter shades of the different colors. White may also be worn with any color, though it looks best with the darker tones. Thus white and crimson, black and pink, each contrast better and have a richer effect than though the black were united with the crimson and the white with the pink. Drab, being a shade of no color between black and white, may be worn with equal effect with all.

A person of very fair, delicate complexion, should always wear the most delicate of tints, such as light blue, mauve and pea-green. A brunette requires bright colors, such as scarlet and orange, to bring out the brilliant tints in her complexion. A florid face and auburn hair call for blue.

Black hair has its color and depth enhanced by scarlet, orange or white, and will bear diamonds, pearls or lustreless gold.

Dark brown hair will bear light blue, or dark blue in a lesser quantity.

If the hair has no richness of coloring, a pale yellowish green will by reflection produce the lacking warm tint.

Light brown hair requires blue, which sets off to advantage the golden tint.

Pure golden or yellow hair needs blue, and its beauty is also increased by the addition of pearls or white flowers.

Auburn hair, if verging on the red, needs scarlet to tone it down. If of a golden red, blue, green, purple or black will bring out the richness of its tints.

Flaxen hair requires blue.


MATERIAL FOR DRESS.

The material for dress must be selected with reference to the purpose which it is to serve. No one buys a yellow satin dress for the promenade, yet a yellow satin seen by gaslight is beautiful, as an evening-dress. Neither would one buy a heavy serge of neutral tint for an opera-dress.

SIZE IN RELATION TO DRESS AND COLORS.

A small person may dress in light colors which would be simply ridiculous on a person of larger proportions. So a lady of majestic appearance should never wear white, but will be seen to the best advantage in black or dark tints. A lady of diminutive stature is dressed in bad taste when she appears in a garment with large figures, plaids or stripes. Neither should a lady of large proportions be seen in similar garments, because, united with her size, they give her a "loud" appearance. Indeed, pronounced figures and broad stripes and plaids are never in perfect taste.

Heavy, rich materials suit a tall figure, while light, full draperies should only be worn by those of slender proportions and not too short. The very short and stout must be content with meagre drapery and quiet colors.

Tall and slim persons should avoid stripes; short, chunky ones, flounces, or any horizontal trimming of the dress which, by breaking the outline from the waist to the feet, produces an effect of shortening.

HOW COLORS HARMONIZE.

Colors may form a harmony either by contrast or by analogy. When two remote shades of one color are associated, such as very light blue and a very dark blue, they harmonize by contrast, though the harmony may be neither striking nor perfect. When two colors which are similar to each other are grouped, such as orange and scarlet, crimson and orange, they harmonize by analogy. A harmony of contrast is characterized by brilliancy and decision, and a harmony of analogy by a quiet and pleasing association of colors.

When a color is chosen which is favorable to the complexion, it is well to associate with it the tints which will harmonize by analogy, as to use contrasting colors would diminish its favorable effect. When a color is used in dress, not suitable to the complexion, it should be associated with contrasting colors, as they have the power to neutralize its objectionable influence.

Decoration

Colors of similar power which contrast with each other, mutually intensify each other's brilliancy, as blue and orange, scarlet and green; but dark and light colors associated do not intensify each other to the same degree, the dark appearing darker and the light appearing [Pg 346]lighter, as dark blue and straw color. Colors which harmonize with each other by analogy, reduce each other's brilliancy to a greater or less degree, as white and yellow, blue and purple, black and brown.

The various shades of purple and lilac, dark blues and dark greens, lose much of their brilliancy by gaslight, while orange, scarlet, crimson, the light browns and light greens, gain brilliancy by a strong artificial light.

Below the reader will find a list of colors that harmonize, forming most agreeable combinations, in which are included all the latest and most fashionable shades and colors:

• Black and pink.
• Black and lilac.
• Black and scarlet.
• Black and maize.
• Black and slate color.
• Black and orange, a rich harmony.
• Black and white, a perfect harmony.
• Black and brown, a dull harmony.
• Black and drab or buff.
• Black, white or yellow and crimson.
• Black, orange, blue and scarlet.
• Black and chocolate brown.
• Black and shaded cardinal.
• Black and cardinal.
• Black, yellow, bronze and light blue.
• Black, cardinal, blue and old gold.
• Blue and brown.
• Blue and black.
• Blue and gold, a rich harmony.
• Blue and orange, a perfect harmony.
• Blue and chestnut (or chocolate).
• Blue and maize.
• Blue and straw color.
• Blue and white.
• Blue and fawn color, weak harmony.
• Blue and stone color.
• Blue and drab.
• Blue and lilac, weak harmony.
• Blue and crimson, imperfectly.
• Blue and pink, poor harmony.
• Blue and salmon color.
• Blue, scarlet and purple (or lilac).
• Blue, orange and black.
• Blue, orange and green.
• Blue, brown, crimson and gold (or yellow).
• Blue, orange, black and white.
• Blue, pink and bronze green.
• Blue, cardinal and old gold.
• Blue, yellow, chocolate-brown and gold.
• Blue, mulberry and yellow.
• Bronze and old gold.
• Bronze, pink and light blue.
• Bronze, black, blue, pink and gold.
• Bronze, cardinal and peacock blue.
• Brown, blue, green, cardinal and yellow.
• Brown, yellow, cardinal and peacock blue.
• Crimson and gold, rich harmony.
• Crimson and orange, rich harmony.
• Crimson and brown, dull harmony.
• Crimson and black, dull harmony.
• Crimson and drab.
• Crimson and maize.
• Crimson and purple.
• Cardinal and old gold.
• Cardinal, brown and black.
• Cardinal and navy blue.
• Chocolate, blue, pink and gold.
• Claret and old gold.
• Dark green, white and cardinal.
• Ecrue, bronze and peacock.
• Ecrue and light blue.
• Garnet, bronze and pink.
• Gensd'arme and cardinal.
• Gensd'arme and bronze.
• Gensd'arme and myrtle.
• Gensd'arme and old gold.
• Gensd'arme, yellow and cardinal.
• Gensd'arme, pink, cardinal and lavender.
• Green and gold, or gold color.
• Green and scarlet.
• Green and orange.
• Green and yellow.
• Green, crimson, blue and gold, or yellow.
• Green, blue and scarlet.
• Green, gold and mulberry.
• Green and cardinal.
• Lilac and white, poor.
• Lilac and gray, poor.
• Lilac and maize.
• Lilac and cherry.
• Lilac and gold, or gold color.
• Lilac and scarlet.
• Lilac and crimson.
• Lilac, scarlet and white or black.
• Lilac, gold color and crimson.
• Lilac, yellow or gold, scarlet and white.
• Light pink and garnet.
• Light drab, pine, yellow and white.
• Myrtle and old gold.
• Myrtle and bronze.
• Myrtle, red, blue and yellow.
• Myrtle, mulberry, cardinal, gold and light green.
• Mulberry and old gold.
• Mulberry and gold.
• Mulberry and bronze.
• Mulberry, bronze and gold.
• Mulberry and pearl.
• Mode, pearl and mulberry.
• Maroon, yellow, silvery gray and light green.
• Navy blue, light blue and gold.
• Navy blue, gensd'arme and pearl.
• Navy blue, maize, cardinal and yellow.
• Orange and bronze, agreeable.
• Orange and chestnut.
• Orange, lilac and crimson.
• Orange, red and green.
• Orange, purple and scarlet.
• Orange, blue, scarlet and purple.
• Orange, blue, scarlet and claret.
• Orange, blue, scarlet, white and green.
• Orange, blue and crimson.
• Pearl, light blue and peacock blue.
• Peacock blue and light gold.
• Peacock blue and old gold.
• Peacock blue and cardinal.
• Peacock blue, pearl, gold and cardinal.
• Purple and maize.
• Purple and blue.
• Purple and gold, or gold color, rich.
• Purple and orange, rich.
• Purple and black, heavy.
• Purple and white, cold.
• Purple, scarlet and gold color.
• Purple, scarlet and white.
• Purple, scarlet, blue and orange.
• Purple, scarlet, blue, yellow and black.
• Red and white, or gray.
• Red and gold, or gold color.
• Red, orange and green.
• Red, yellow or gold color and black.
• Red, gold color, black and white.
• Seal brown, gold and cardinal.
• Sapphire and bronze.
• Sapphire and old gold.
• Sapphire and cardinal.
• Sapphire and light blue.
• Sapphire and light pink.
• Sapphire and corn.
• Sapphire and garnet.
• Sapphire and mulberry.
• Shaded blue and black.
• Scarlet and blue.
• Scarlet and slate color.
• Scarlet and orange.
• Scarlet, blue and white.
• Scarlet, blue and yellow.
• Scarlet, black and white.
• Scarlet, blue, black and yellow.
• Shaded blue, shaded garnet and shaded gold.
• Shaded blue and black.
• White and cherry.
• White and crimson.
• White and brown.
• White and pink.
• White and scarlet.
• White and gold color, poor.
• Yellow and black.
• Yellow and brown.
• Yellow and red.
• Yellow and chestnut or chocolate.
• Yellow and white, poor.
• Yellow and purple, agreeable.
• Yellow and violet.
• Yellow and lilac, weak.
• Yellow and blue, cold.
• Yellow and crimson.
• Yellow, purple and crimson.
• Yellow, purple, scarlet and blue.
• Yellow, cardinal and peacock blue.
• Yellow, pink, maroon and light blue.

To Clean Ostrich Feathers

Cut some white curd soap in small pieces, pour boiling water on them, and add a little pearlash.

When the soap is quite dissolved, and the mixture cool enough for the hand to bear, plunge the feathers into it, draw the feathers through the hand till the dirt appears squeezed out of them, pass them through a clean lather with some blue in it, then rinse in cold water with blue to give them a good color.

Beat them against the hand to shake off the water, and dry by shaking them near a fire.

When perfectly dry, curl each fibre separately with a blunt knife or ivory paper-folder.

Fumigating Paper

There are two modes of preparing this article:--

1. Take sheets of light cartridge paper, and dip them into a solution of alum--say, alum, one ounce; water, one pint. After they are thoroughly moistened, let them be well dried; upon one side of this paper spread a mixture of equal parts of gum benzoin, olibanum, and either balm of Tolu or Peruvian balsam, or the benzoin may be used alone. To spread the gum, &c., it is necessary that they be melted in an earthenware vessel and poured thinly over the paper, finally smoothing the surface with a hot
spatula. When required for use, slips of this paper are held over a candle or lamp, in order to evaporate the odorous matter, but not to ignite it. The alum in the paper prevents it a to certain extent from burning.

2. Sheets of good light paper are to be steeped in a solution of saltpetre, in the proportions of two ounces of the salt to one pint of water, to be afterwards thoroughly dried.

Any of the odoriferous gums, as myrrh, olibanum, benzoin, &c., are to be dissolved to saturation in rectified spirit, and with a brush spread upon one side of the paper, which, being hung up, rapidly dries.

Slips of this paper are to be rolled up as spills, to be ignited, and then to be blown out.

The nitre in the paper causes a continuance of slow combustion, diffusing during that time the agreeable perfume of the odoriferous gums. If two of these sheets of paper be pressed together before the surface is dry, they will join and become as one. When cut into slips, they form what are called Odoriferous Lighters, or Perfumed Spills.

Indian, or Yellow Pastils

• 1 lb Santal-wood, in powder
• 1-1/2 lb Gum benzoin
• 1/4 lb. Gum Tolu
• 1 - 1/2 oz Nitrate of potass
• 3 drachms  Otto of santal
• 3 drachms otto of cassia
• 3 drachms otto of cloves
• Mucilage of tragacantha, q.s. to make the whole into a stiff paste.

The benzoin, santal-wood, and Tolu, are to be powdered and mixed by sifting them, adding the ottos. The nitre being dissolved in the mucilage, is then added. After well beating in a mortar, the pastils are
formed in shape with a pastil mould, and gradually dried.

The Chinese jossticks are of a similar composition, but contain no Tolu. Jossticks are burned as incense in the temples of the Buddahs in the Celestial Empire, and to such an extent as to greatly enhance the value of santal-wood.



India Incense

All India or Hindu Incenses contain Sandalwood as a base, and they together with any Spice, particularly Cinnamon, is burned in the Temples. However, some of the Hindu Incenses are made more aromatic with the addition of essential oils or perfume bases.


Persian Incense

Persian Incense is a combination using Sandalwood and a  Spice, mainly Cinnamon, together with Benzoin or  Frankincense and Myrrh.

Various May Flowers Bouquet Formulas

May Flowers Bouquet:

• 1/2 pint Extract of rose
• 1/2 pint Extract of jasmine
• 1/2 pint Extract of orange flower
• 1/2 pint Extract of cassie
• 1 pint Extract of vanilla
• 1/4 drachm Otto of almonds

May Flowers #2:

• Essence rose 10 ozs 
• Essence jasmine 10 ozs 
• Essence orange flowers 10 ozs 
• Essence cassia 10 ozs 
• Tincture vanilla 20 ozs 
• Oil bitter almond dr 

Extract of May Flowers #3:

• Extract rose 8 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 8 ozs 
• Extract orange flowers 8 ozs 
• Extract cassia 8 ozs 
• Extract vanilla 16 ozs 
• Oil almonds 15 drops 

Mix and filter 

May Flowers #4:

• Extract rose 32 ozs 
• Extract cassia 24 ozs 
• Extract violet 8 ozs 
• Extract musk 4 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 8 ozs 
• Oil rose 20 drops 
• Oil bergamot 1/2 oz 

Extract May Flowers #5:

• Spirit rose 1 oz 
• Spirit jasmine 1 oz 
• Spirit cassia 1 oz 
• Spirit vanilla 2 ozs 
• Spirit musk 1 dr 
• Spirit cologne 11 ozs 

May Flowers Bouquet #6:

• Extract tuberose 14 ozs 
• Extract cassia 14 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 8 ozs 
• Extract orange flowers 8 ozs 
• Spirit rose geranium 8 ozs 
• Tincture ambergris 6 ozs 
• Spirits vanillin 4 ozs 
• Spirits bitter almond 2 ozs 

May Flower #7:

• Oil linalol 2 drs 
• Oil orange flowers 10 mins 
• Oil jasmine 20 mins 
• Essence raspberry 1/2 dr 
• Essence musk 1 dr 

Extract May Flower #8:

• Extract rose 1 pt 
• Extract jasmine 1 pt 
• Extract orange flower 1 pt 
• Extract cassia 1 pt 
• Tincture vanilla pt 
• Oil rose geranium 1 dr 
• Oil neroli petale dr 
• Oil bitter almonds 20 drops 
• Oil lemon 20 drops 

May Flowers #9:

• Extract vanilla 20 ozs 
• Extract rose 10 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 10 ozs 
• Extract orange 10 ozs 
• Extract cassia 10 ozs 
• Extract storax 3 ozs 
• Oil almond 10 drops 

May Flowers #10:

• Tincture orris 460 parts 
• Triple extract rose 320 parts 
• Extract jasmine 160 parts 
• Tincture ambergris 40 parts 
• Oil neroli 6 parts 
• Oil lemon 6 parts 
• Oil cedrat 6 parts 
• Oil cinnamon 2 parts 

May Flowers #11:

• Extract rose 13 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 10 ozs 
• Extract orange 10 ozs 
• Extract cassia 12 ozs 
• Extract vanilla 10 ozs 
• Extract violet 10 ozs 
• Extract storax 2 ozs 
• Extract civet 1 oz 
• Oil almonds 13 drops 
• Otto rose 17 drops 

May Flowers  (Fleurs de Mai) #12:

• Tincture musk 100 G 
• Oil rose 5 G 
• Oil cassia 3 G 
• Oil bitter almond 6 G 
• Tincture tonka (1:50) 200 G 
• Extract vanilla 200 G 
• Extract rose I 200 G 
• Extract orange  1000 G 
• Extract jasmine 1600 G 
• Oil neroli artificial 10 gouttes
• Terpineol 5 gouttes
• Oil linaloe 10 gouttes
• Cologne spirit 1000 G 

May Blossom #1:

• Extract Essence jasmine 4 ozs 
• Essence rose 2 1/2  ozs 
• Essence reseda 2 1/2 ozs 
• Essence orange flowers 1 1/2 ozs 
• Spirit orris 1 1/2 ozs 
• Spirit ylang ylang 6 drs 
• Tincture musk 2 drs 
• Tincture ambergris 2 drs 
• Oil bergamot 2 drs 
• Heliotropin 30 grns 
• Alcohol 2 1/2 ozs 

May Blossom #2:

• Essence orris 500 parts 
• Triple extract rose 250 parts 
• Extract jasmine 100 parts 
• Essence ylang ylang 100 parts 
• Essence ambergris 25 parts 
• Oil orange 10 parts 
• Oil citron 20 parts 
• Oil neroli 5 parts 

May Blossom #3:

• Extract jasmine 25 ozs 
• Tincture musk 5 ozs 
• Extract rose geranium 5 ozs 
• Oil bergamot 1/2 oz 
• Oil linaloe 1 1/2 ozs 
• Alcohol 4 ozs 

May Blossoms #4:

• Extract rose 12 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 12 ozs 
• Extract cassia 12 ozs 
• Spirits ylang ylang 12 ozs 
• Spirits vanillin 12 ozs 
• Spirits heliotropin 4 ozs 

May Blossom #5:

• Tincture of jasmine 25 ounces 
• Tincture of musk 5 ounces 
• Tincture of rose geranium 5 ounces 
• Oil of bergamot 1/2 ounce 
• Oil of lignum aloe 1 1/2 ounces 
• Cologne spirits (188%) 4 ounces 

Dissolve the oils in the cologne spirits add the tinctures and filter if necessary.

Flor de Mayo:

• Extract jasmine 3 ozs 
• Extract jasmine, second wash 2 ozs 
• Extract orange flowers 2 ozs 
• Extract orange flowers, second wash 2 ozs 
• Extract tuberose, second wash 2 ozs 
• Extract tuberose, virgin 3 ozs 
• Extract musk, comp 2 ozs 
• Oil bergamot 10 drops 
• Oil neroli 2 drops 
• Extract musk 1 dr 
• Extract ambergris 1 dr 
• Extract civet 1 dr 
• Extract styrax 15 drops 
• Extract tolu 1 dr 

Extrait des Fleurs de Mai (May Flowers):

• 1 pint Extract of cassie
• 1 pint extract of tuberose
• 1/2 pint extract of jasmine
• 1/2 pint extract of orange flower
• 1/4 pint Tincture of ambrette 
• 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla 
• 2 drams Oil of geranium 
• 1 dram Oil of neroli 
• 1/2 dram oil of almonds  
• 8 oz Rose-water, triple 

May Flowers 

• Essence of rose 10 ounces 
• Essence of jasmine 10 ounces 
• Essence of orange flowers 10 ounces
• Essence of cassie 10 ounces
• Tincture of vanilla 20 ounces 
• Oil of bitter almond drachm   

Caprice de la Monde Perfume

• 1/2 pint Extrait de jasmine
• 1/2 pint Extrait de tuberose
• 1/2 pint Extrait de cassie
• 1/2 pint Extrait de orange flower
• 10 drops Otto of almonds
• 10 drops Otto of nutmegs
• 1/4 pint Extract of civet

Neptune's Bouquet Perfume

• 1/2 pint Extrait de rose, triple
• 1/2 pint Extrait de sandalwood
• 1/2 pint Extrait de vetiver
• 1/2 pint Extrait de patchouli
• 1/8 pint Extrait de verbena

To Clean Patent Leather Boots

In cleaning patent-leather boots, first remove all the dirt upon them with a sponge or flannel; then the boot should be rubbed lightly over with a paste consisting of two spoonfuls of cream and one of linseed oil, both of which require to be warmed before being mixed. Polish with a soft cloth.

Sachet a la Mousselaine

• 1 lb powdered vetiver
• 1/2 lb sandalwood powder
• 1/2 lb orris root powder
• 1/2 lb black currant leaves
• 1/4 lb benzoin powder
• 5 drops otto of thyme
• 1/2 drachm otto of roses 

Poudre a la Mousseline

 Orris root 16 oz., coriander-seed 8 oz., musk-seed 2 oz., cinnamon, cloves, and sandal-wood, each 1 oz., star aniseed 1/4 oz., mace, ginger, and violet ebony, of each 2 oz.; beat them to a powder, and pass through a sieve.

Eau de Cologne (La Premiere Qualite)

• 6 gallons Spirit (from grape), 60 over proof
• 5 oz Otto of orange peel
• 5 oz Otto of citron peel
• 3 oz Otto of neroli, Petale
• 2 oz Otto of rosemary
• 2 oz Otto of bergamot peel
• 1 oz Otto of neroli, Bigarade

Mix with agitation; then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly quiet, before bottling.

Tulip Nosegay Perfume

Nearly all the tulip tribe, although beautiful to the eye, are inodorous. The variety called the Duc Van Thol, however, yields an exquisite perfume, but it is not used by the manufacturer for the purpose of extracting its odor. He, however, borrows its poetical name, and makes an excellent imitation thus:

• 1 pint Extract of tubereuse
• 1 pint Extract of violet
• 1/2 pint Extract of  rose
• 3 oz  Extract of orris
• 3 drops Otto of almonds

Various Millefleurs Formulas

French Extrait de Millefleurs Perfume:

• 4 grains finest grain musk
• 6 grains finest ambergris
• 6 drachms oil of lemon
• 4 drachms oil of lavender (English)
• 4 drachms oil of cloves
• 1 drachm liquid storax (genuine)
• 12 drops (minims) oil of verbena
• 12 drops (minims) oil of pimento
• 12 drops (minims) neroli 
• 1 Imperial pint rectified spirit

Macerate in a warm room, with frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 weeks. Very fine. The omission of the storax renders it paler, and thus preferable to some persons.

Millefleurs:

• Lemon Oil 3/4 dr
• Orange Oil 3/4 dr
• Lavender Oil 1 dr
• Geranium Oil 1 dr 
• Vetiver Oil 3 1/2 dr 
• Cedar Oil 6 dr
• Civet Tincture 7 dr
• Musk Tincture 12 dr
• Vanillin Tincture 1 1/2 oz 
• Orange Flower 2 1/2 oz 
• Jasmine 2 1/2 oz  
• Cassie 3 1/2 oz 
• Violet 4 oz

Bouquet de Mille-Fleurs (A Thousand Flowers):

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1/2 pint extract of tuberose 
• 1/2 pint extract of jasmine
• 1/2 pint extract of orange flower 
• 1/2 pint extract of cassie 
• 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla 
• 2 oz tincture of musk 
• 2 oz tincture of ambergris 
• 1 dram oil of oil of neroli 
• 2 drams oil of bergamot 
• 1/2 dram oil of cloves 
• 1/2 dram oil of almonds 
• 8 oz rose-water, triple 

A perfume that has always been popular and always 

will be.

Millefleur Toilet Water:

• 9 pints very pure rectified spirit
• 1 ounce balsam of Peru (genuine) 
• 1 ounce essence of cloves
• 2 ounces essences of bergamot 
• 2 ounces musk
• 1/4 ounce essences of neroli 
• 1/4 ounce thyme
• 1 quart eau de fleurs d'oranges

Mix well. Very fine.

Balm of a Thousand Flowers Perfume:

• Deodorized alcohol, one pint
• nice white bar soap, four ounces

Shave the soap when put in; stand in a warm place till dissolved; then add oil of citronella, one dram, and oils of neroli and rosemary, of each one-half dram.

Eau de Mille Fleurs #1:

• Extract of cassie 1 pint 
• Essence of rose 1 pint 
• Extract of jasmine 1 pint 
• Tincture of musk 6 fl oz 
• Extract of neroli 1 pint 
• Extract of patchouly 1 pint 
• Tincture of vanilla 2 oz 
• Extract of violet 1 pint 
• Essence of vetiver 2 oz 
• Tincture of civet 6 fl oz 
• Citral 1 dram 
• Oil of geranium 3/4 oz 
• Oil of lavender 3/4 oz 
• Musk xylene, 100% 1 dram 

Eau de Mille Fleurs #2:

• Extract of cassie 1 pint 
• Tincture of ambergris 1/2 pint 
• Essence of cedar 1/2 pint 
• Extract of jasmine 1 pint 
• Tincture of musk 1/2 pint 
• Extract of orange flower 1 pint 
• Extract of rose 1 pint 
• Extract of tuberose 1 pint 
• Tincture of vanilla 1/2 pint 
• Extract of violet 1 pint 
• Essence of rose simple 1 qt 
• Oil of bergamot 1 1/4 oz 
• Oil of bitter almond 24 grains 
• Oil of clove 24 grains 
• Oil of neroli 24 grains 

Eau de Mille Fleurs a Palmarose:

• Extract of cassie 6 fl oz 
• Essence of cedar 3 fl oz 
• Tincture of musk 3 fl oz 
• Extract of violet 6 fl oz 
• Oil of bergamot 1 1/2 oz 
• Oil of cedar 1 3/4 oz 
• Oil of lemon 1/4 oz 
• Oil of lavender 1/4 oz 
• Oil of clove 1/4 oz 
• Oil of palmarosa 1/2 oz 
• Alcohol 9 pints 

Eau de Millefleurs:

• Rectified spirit 2 pints
• balsam of Peru 1/4 oz
• essence of bergamot 1/2 oz
• oil of cloves 1/4 oz
• essence of neroli 1/2 dr
• essence of musk 1 dr
• orange-flower water 2 oz

Delcroix's Millefleurs et Lavande Bouquet:

• 1 pint Spirits from grape
• 2 oz Extract of ambergris
• 1 oz French otto of lavender

The original "lavender aux millefleurs" is that of Delcroix; its peculiar odor is due to the French otto of lavender, which, although some folks like it, is very inferior to the English otto of lavender; hence the formula first given is far superior to that by the inventor, and has almost superseded the original preparations.

There are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender is the leading ingredient, and from which they take their name, such as lavender and ambergris, lavender and musk, lavender and maréchale, &c., all of which are composed of fine spirituous essences of lavender, with about 15 per cent. of any of the other ingredients.


Millefleurs and Lavender Toilet Water:

• 1/2 pint Essence of lavender (Mitcham)
• 1 pint Eau des millefleurs

Eau des Mille-Fleurs:

• 56 centiliters rose spirits (triple)
• 28 centiliters rose spirit (pomade)
• 28 centiliters tuberose spirits
• 28 centiliters jasmine spirits
• 28 centiliters cassie spirits
• 28 centiliters violet spirits
• 14 centiliters cedar tincture
• 56 centiliters vanilla tincture
• 56 centiliters musk tincture
• 56 centiliters ambergris tincture
• 10 drops almond oil
• 10 drops clove oil
• 10 drops neroli oil
• 28 centiliters bergamot oil

Let stand for two weeks, then filter.


Millefleurs:

• Tincture of jasmine 8 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 4 ounces 
• Tincture of tuberose 4 ounces 
• Tincture of orange flowers 4 ounces 
• Tincture of cassle 4 ounces 
• Tincture of orris 4 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
• Tincture of musc baur 2 ounces 
• Oil of bergamot 1/4  ounce 
• Oil of lavender 1 dram 
• Oil of rose geranium 1 dram 
• Oil of neroli petale 5 minims 

Mix and filter if necessary.

Bouquet de Millefleurs 

• Oil of bergamot 
• Oil of sassafras 
• Oil of cloves 
• Otto of rose 
• Lavender water 
• Cassie extrait 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Orange flower water 
• Spirit 

 Millefleurs and Lavender 

• Oil of lavender 
• Essence of ambergris 
• Millefleurs recipe above

Palatine Paste for the Complexion

Take 8 ounces of soft-soap, of olive oil,  and spirits of wine, each 4 ounces, 1 ounce of lemon-juice, sufficient silver-sand to form into a thick paste,  and any perfume that is grateful to the person.

Boil the oil and soap together in a pipkin, and then gradually  stir in the sand and lemon-juice. When nearly cool add  the spirit of wine, and lastly the perfume. Make into  a paste with the hands, and place in jars or pots for  use.  

This paste is used instead of soap, and is a valuable  addition to the toilette, as it preserves the skin from  chapping, and renders it smooth and soft.

Olla Podrida

This is a similar preparation to pot pourri. No regular form can be given for it, as it is generally made, or "knocked up," with the refuse and spent materials derived from other processes in the manufacture of perfumery; such as the spent vanilla after the manufacture of tincture or extract of vanilla, or of the grain musk from the extract of musk, orris from the tincture, tonquin beans, after tincturation, &c. &c., mixed up with rose-leaves, lavender, or any odoriferous herbs.

Huntsman's Nosegay

Huntsman's Nosegay #1:

• Musk Tincture 1/2 dr 
• Citronella Oil 1/2 dr 
• Cassie 1 oz 15 dr 
• Orange Oil 2 oz 
• Tonka Bean Tincture 4 oz 
• Rose 8 oz

Huntsman's Nosegay #2:

• Essence of rose triple 1 pint 
• Extract of cassie 6 fl oz 
• Extract of orange flower 6 fl oz 
• Tincture of musk 150 grains 
• Tincture of tonka 1 pint 
• Oil of citronella 150 grains 
• Alcohol 3 qts 

Esprit de Bergamot

Take:

• 5 Imperial fluid drachms oil of bergamot (finest, recent)
• 1/2 fluid drachm oil of rose-geranium 
• 1/2 fluid drachm oil of verbena
• 2 fluid drachm essence of ambergris
• 1 fluid drachms; essence of musk
• 1 pint rectified spirit

Mix. Very fine.

For a second quality (usually called best),
1 quart of spirit (70 per cent.) is used; for a third quality, 3 to 4 pints at proof.

Imperial Water

Take:

• 5 quarts of Brandy, in which dissolve:
• 1 ounce of Frankincense
• 1 ounce Mastic, 
• 1 ounce Benjamin
• 1 ounce Gum Arabic 
• 1/2 ounce Cloves 
• 1/2 ounce Nutmegs; 
• 1 1/2 ounce Pine-nut Kernels 
• 3 sweet Almonds 
• 3 grains of Musk 

Bruise these ingredients in a marble mortar, distill in a vapour bath, and keep the water that is drawn off in a glass bottle, tightly stoppered.

This water takes away wrinkles, and renders the skin extremely delicate; it also whitens the Teeth, and abates the toothache, sweetens the breath, and Strengthens the gums. Foreign ladies prize it highly.