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Sunday, May 31, 2015

Fine Camphor Ice

Melt together over a water-bath:


  • 1 ounce white wax 
  • 1 ounce spermaceti
  • 2 ounces camphor
  • 1 pound sweet almond oil


Next, triturate in the manner directed for amandine, and allow 1 pound of rose-water to flow in slowly during the operation. Then perfume with attar of rosemary, 1 drachm.

Or,

  • 2 ounces Oil of sweet almonds
  • 4 ounces spermaceti
  • 2 ounces white wax
  • 1/2 ounce camphor


 Melt them over a water-bath, run in moulds of proper size and form 

Saturday, May 30, 2015

Various Nosegay Formulas

EXTRACT OF NOSEGAY - Syn. Extrait de Bouquet

  • 1 drachm flowers of benzoin 
  • 2 oz essence of ambergris  
  • 1 pint spirit of jasmine 
  • 1 pint extract of violets
  • 1/2 pint spirits of cassia 
  • 1/2 pint roses 
  • 1/2 pint orange
  • 1/2 pint gillyflower


Mix.

A most delightful perfume.


Taken from - A Cyclopaedia of six thousand practical receipts, 1851




Nosegay Toilet Water:
Take:

  • 1 ounce Honey-water
  • 2 ounces Eau fans Pareille
  • 5 drachms Jasmine-water
  • 1/2 ounce Clove-water
  • 1/2 ounce Violet-water
  • 2 drachms Cyprus-water
  • 2 drachms sweet Calamus-water
  • 2 drachms Lavender-water
  • 10 drops Spirit of Neroli or Oranges 
Mix all these Waters together, and keep the mixture in a vial close corked. This water has a delightful scent ; but its use is only for the toilet.


Cashmere Nosegay:

  • 1 pint Extract of violet
  • 1-1/2 pint Extract of rose
  • 1/2 pint Tincture of benzoin 
  • 1/4 pint Tincture of civet
  • 1/4 pint Tincture of  Tonquin 
  • 1/2 oz Flowers of benzoin  
  • 1/4 oz Oil of patchouly 
  • 1/2 oz oil of santal 
  • 8 oz Rose-water, triple 


Bouquet du Roi (Royal Nosegay):

  • 1 pint extract of jasmine
  • 1 pint extract of rose 
  • 1/2 pint extract of violet
  • 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
  • 1/4 pint tincture of vetiver
  • 2 oz tincture of musk
  • 2 oz tincture of ambrette
  • 1 oz oil of bergamot
  • 2 drams oil of cloves
  • 12 oz orange flower water, triple

Bouquet de la Reine (Queens's Nosegay):

  • 1 pint extract of rose
  • 1 pint extract of orange flower 
  • 1/2 pint extract of violet
  • 1/2 pint extract of tuberose
  • 1/4 pint tincture of orris
  • 1/4 pint tincture of civet
  • 1/4 oz oil of bergamot
  • 8 oz rose water, triple


Gypsy Nosegay:

  • 1 pint Extract of jasmin 
  • 1 pint extract of orange flower 
  • 1 pint extract of cassie 
  • 1/2 pint Tincture of orris  
  • 1/4 pint tincture of musk 
  • 1/2 oz Oil of verbena 
  • 4 oz Rose-water, triple 


Bouquet des Indes (Indian Nosegay):

  • 1-1/2 pint Extract of rose 
  • 3/4 pint extract of orange flower 
  • 1/4 pint Tincture of musk
  • 1/2 pint tincture of Tonquin 
  • 1/2 pint tincture of ambrette 
  • 1 drachm Oil of santal 
  • 1 drachm oil of patchouly 
  • 8 oz Rose-water, triple 

Extrait des Fleurs d'Italie (Italian Nosegay):
  • 1 pint Extract of rose
  • 1/2 pint Extract of orange flower 
  • 1/2 pint Extract of jasmine
  • 1/2 pint Extract of violet
  • 1/2 pint Tincture of orris  
  • 1/4 pint Tincture of musk 
  • 1/4 pint Tincture of benzoin  
  • 1/4 pint Tincture of ambergris 
  • 1/4 pint Rose-water, double
  • This is one of the oldest and best known of essences. 

Italian Nosegay:
  • Spirit of Rose, from pomade 2 pints 
  • Spirit of Rose, triple 1 pint 
  • Spirit of Jasmine 1 pint 
  • Spirit of Violet 1 pint 
  • Extract of Cassia  1/2 pint 
  • Extract of Musk  2 ounces
  • Extract of Ambergris  2 ounces

Posy:

  • Ext Rose Virgin Pomade 8 ounces 
  • Ext Orange 4 ounces 
  • Ext Jasmin 8 ounces 
  • Ext Musk 4 ounces 
  • Oil Rose 1/4 drachm


Thursday, May 28, 2015

Various May Bells Formulas

The formula below was taken from Mierzinski.


May Bells #1 


  • Oil bergamot parts 1.0 
  • Oil rose geranium parts 1.5 
  • Tincture musk parts 2 5 
  • Oil linaloe parts 5.0 
  • Extract jasmine parts 250.0 
  • Alcohol, 80 proof,  parts 760.0 



It is understood of course that none but the best materials are to be used.


May Bells #2


  • Extract orange parts 2000 
  • Extract violet parts 1000
  • Extract cassia parts 1000
  • Tincture orris parts 50
  • Tincture musk parts 20
  • Oil clove parts 30
  • Oil linaloe parts 60
  • Oil coriander parts 20
  • Oil cananga parts 10
  • Oil wintergreen parts 10
  • Oil mace parts parts 10
  • Oil ylang ylang parts 5
  • Alcohol absolute 180


In all of the above the essential oils are dissolved in the absolute alcohol and the solution added to the mixture of extracts.


Taken from Western Druggist, Volume 17, 1895.


May Bells 
  • Jasmine extrait 
  • Orange extrait 
  • Linaloe extrait 
  • Spirit of ylang ylang 
  • Oil of mace 
  • Tincture of orris

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Almond Paste for the Skin

Take 1 ounce of bitter almonds, blanch  and pound them to a fine powder, then add 1 ounce of  barley flour, and make it into a smooth paste by the addition of a little honey.

When this paste is laid over  the skin, particularly where there are freckles, it makes  it smooth and soft.


Saturday, May 16, 2015

Farina's Eau de Cologne

Take:

  •  10 grains angelica-root
  • 15 grains camphor
  • 20 grains cassia-lignea
  • 20 grains cloves
  • 20 grains mace
  • 20 grains nutmegs
  • 20 grains wormwood tops
  • 1/2 drachm calamus aromaticus
  • 1/2 drachm sage
  • 1/2 drachm thyme
  • 1 drachm orange flowers
  • 1 1/2 drachms lavender flowers 
  • 3 drachms rose petals
  • 3 drachms violets of each
  • 1 ounce balm-mint
  • 1 ounce spear-mint 
  • 2 sliced lemons
  • 2 sliced oranges
  • 5 gallons rectified Cologne spirits



Bruise or slice the solids, and digest them in the spirit, with frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 days, then distill off 3 gallons.

To this add:

  • 1 ounce oil of bergamot
  • 1 ounce essential oil of jasmine
  • 1 drachm oil of balm-mint
  • 1 drachm oil of cedrat
  • 1 drachm oil of lavender
  • 1 drachm oil of lemon 
  • 20 drops; pure neroli 
  • 20 drops oil of anthos-seed



Agitate until solution is complete, and the next day, if necessary, filter.

This formula, many years since, was confidentially given by the celebrated original Jean Maria Farina, who lived opposite the Jülichs Platz, in Cologne, to a professional gentleman, now deceased, with a solemn assurance that it was the one used by the former in his laboratory. After keeping the secret some years, this gentleman disclosed it.

It seems unnecessarily complicated. Some of the articles, as the herbs wormwood and mint, are either useless or better omitted. The version given above differs from the original simply in being intended for only 5 gallons instead of twelve times the quantity. Dr. Cooley says he personally tried it, and found the quality of the product splendid.

Friday, May 15, 2015

Sachet a la Marechale

  • 1/2 lb sandalwood powder
  • 1/2 lb orris root powder
  • 1/4 lb ground rose leaves
  • 1/4 lb ground cloves
  • 1/4 lb cassia bark
  • 1/2 drachm grain musk 


Poudre a la Mareschale

Oak moss in powder 2 lbs., plain starch powder 1 lb., cloves 1 oz., calamus 2 oz., cyperus 2 oz., rotten oak-wood powder 2 oz.; mix. - Gray.

Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Common Aromatic Vinegar

Take:
  • 1 ounce avoirdupoisof camphor
  • 1 drachm oil of cloves
  • 40 grains oil of cedrat
  • 40 grains lavender (Mitcham)
  • 20 grains oil of bergamot
  • 20 grains of thyme
  • 10 grains of oil of cinnamon
  • 1/2 pound glacial acetic acid
Mix. Very fine.

Friday, May 8, 2015

Various Civet Formulas

Extract of Civet is prepared by rubbing in a mortar one ounce of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar material that will assist to break up or divide the civet; and then placing the whole into a gallon of rectified spirits; after macerating for a month, it is fit to strain off.

It is principally used as a "fixing" ingredient, in mixing essences of delicate odor.

The French perfumers use the extract of civet more than English manufacturers, who seem to prefer extract of musk. From a quarter of a pint to half a pint is the utmost that ought to be mixed with a gallon of any other perfume.





Essence of Civet:

Take:

  • 1 ounce civet cut very small
  • 1 pint rectified spirit

Proceed as for essence of ambergris or musk. Its odor is only agreeable when faint and combined with that of other substances, which it sustains and increases. It is hence seldom or never used alone.

Monday, May 4, 2015

Precious Stones and their Meanings

Precious Stones.

SOME of the precious stones and gems have been given a distinct significance by imparting a special meaning or name to them. The ancients besides considered certain months sacred to the different stones, and some people have considered this in making birthday or wedding presents. Below will be found the stones regarded as sacred to the various months, with the meaning given to each.

  • January—Garnet—Constancy and Fidelity.
  • February—Amethyst—Sincerity.
  • March—Bloodstone—Courage.
  • April—Sapphire—Repentance.
  • May—Emerald—Success in love.
  • June—Agate—Health and long life.
  • July—Ruby—Forgetfulness of, and exemption from vexations caused by friendship and love.
  • August—Sardonyx—Conjugal Fidelity.
  • September—Chrysolite—Freedom from evil passions and sadness of mind.
  • October—Opal—Hope and Faith.
  • November—Topaz—Fidelity and Friendship.
  • December—Turquoise—Prosperity.



Of the precious stones not included in the above list, the language is given below:

  • Diamond—Innocence.
  • Pearl—Purity.
  • Cornelian—Contented mind.
  • Moonstone—Protects from danger.
  • Heliotrope—Causing the owner to walk invisible.