Various Heliotrope Perfume Formulas

HELIOTROPE TYPE - Natural products occasionally offered but synthetics closely approximate the natural fragrance Heliotropin (piperonal) is the basic odor with flowering adjuvants of hydroxycitronellal, geraniol, methyl acetophenone, and benzyl acetate. 

Melilotus, honeysuckle and Marvel of Peru have an odor of, suggestive of, but distinct from heliotrope. Coumarin, the basis of sweet clover (melilot) and new mown hay compositions, and the honeysuckle note is obtained by of linalol, geraniol, hydroxycitronellal, vanillin acetate, with tuberose essence.

Extrait d'Heliotrope:

tincture de vanille 500 gr

tincture de baume de perou 250 gr

esprit de roses 500 gr

esprit de jasmin 500 gr

esprit de tuberose 250 gr

esprit de fleurs d'oranger 250 gr

tincture of ambergris 8 gr

tincture of musc 8 gr

Extrait d'Heliotrope (autre formula):

eau spiritueuse de roses 500 gr

eau spiritueuse de jasmin 500 gr

eau spiritueuse de tuberoses 500 gr

tincture de vanille 250 gr

tincture de baume de perou 125 gr

tincture de ambergris 30 gr

Extrait d'Heliotrope:

extrait d'ambroisie compose 6 liters

infusion d'heliotrope 6 liters

infusion de vanille 2 liters

extrait de roses 4 liters

extrait d'orange 2 liters

infusion de musc 1 liter

essence d'amandes ameres 10 gr

Extrait Artificiel d'Heliotrope:

essence artificielle d'heliotrope 25 gr

aldehyde benzoique 1 gr

ionone 2 gr

coumarine 2 gr

alcohol 90% 1 liter

Extrait Heliotrope triple:

850 gr. wine spirit, 50 gr. jasmine extract (triple), 100 gr. tuberose extract (double), 10 gr. heliotropin, 2 gr. coumarin, 6 gr. ambergris tincture.

 

Heliotrope #1:

• Ylang Ylang Oil 1/4 dr 
• Benzyl Acetate 1 1/4 dr
• Terpineol 5 dr
• Heliotropin 5 1/2 dr
• Musk Tincture 12 dr
• Vanillin Tincture 12 dr
• Peru Balsam Tincture 12 dr
• Rose 3 oz 
• Tuberose 3 oz
• Jasmine 7 oz

Heliotrope #2:

• 5 oz cassie extract
• 1 oz orris
• 4 oz orange flower
• 12 oz jasmine
• 10 oz vanilla
• 12 oz tuberose
• 6 drams esprit de rose
• 6 drops almond oil

Heliotrope #3:

• 2 qts extract of rose, made from the pomade
• 1 qt extract of orange flowers, made from the pomade
• 4 oz tincture of ambergris
• 4 oz Heliotropin
• 1 dram musk xylene, 100%
• 1 qt alcohol

Heliotrope #4:

• Tincture of heliotrope (1 to 16) 8 ounces 
• Tincture of orris 16 ounces 
• Tincture or rose 8 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmin 8 ounces 
• Tincture of styrax 2 drams 
• Tincture of vetiver 2 drams 
• Tincture of coumarin 8 ounces 
• Oil of bergamot 2 drams 
• Oil of bitter almonds 8 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary

Extrait d'Heliotrope:

• Extract of jasmine from pomade 2 qts 
• Extract of orange flowers 1 pint 
• Tincture of ambergris 4 oz 
• Heliotropine 4 oz 
• Ylang Ylang, Siegert 2 drams 
• Coumarin 2 drams 
• Musk xylene 1 dram 
• Alcohol to make 4 qts 

Extrait  de Heliotrope #2:

• 1/2 pint Spirituous extract of vanilla
• 1/4 pint Spirituous extract of French rose pomatum
• 2 oz Spirituous extract of orange-flower pomatum
• 1 oz Spirituous extract of ambergris
•  5 drops Essential oil of almonds

A preparation made in this manner under the name of Extract de Heliotrope is that which is sold in the shops of Paris and London, and is really a very nice perfume, passing well with the public for a genuine extract of heliotrope.

Extrait au Heliotrope:

• 2 pints Extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1/2 pint Tincture of vanilla  
• 2 oz tincture of civet 
• 2 oz tincture of ambergris 
• 1 dram Oil of almonds 
• 4 oz Rose-water, triple  

Heliotrope is not cultivated for its perfume, although very fine. This formula is an imitation, and I believe a very good one.

Eau de Heliotrope:

• 1/2 Imperial fluid drachm essence of ambergris, coarsely powdered
• 1/2 ounce avoirdupois vanilla
• 1/2 pin orange-flower water
• 1 quart rectified spirit

5 or 6 drops each of oil of bitter almonds and cassia are sometimes added

Digest for a week, and then decant or filter. Used both as a cosmetic and perfume.

Essence of Heliotrope
Spirituous extract of vanilla 1/2 pint, of French rose-pomatum 1/4 pint, of orange-flower, pomatum 2 oz., of ambergris 1 oz.; add 5 drops of the essential oil of almond.


Eau Spiritueuse d'Heliotrope
 Eau Spiritueuse d'Heliotrope. Vanilla 3 drs., double orange-flower water 6 oz., rectified spirit a quart; macerate for 3 days, and distil in a water-bath. It may be coloured with cochineal. But the essence d'heliotrope of some perfumers appears, by the colour, not to have been distilled.


Heliotrope:

• heliotropin
• bergamot
• synthetic neroli
• orris
• Peru balsam
• bitter almond
• vanillin

Extrait de Heliotrope:

2 liters of rose essence and 600 gr. essence of "Neroli", both prepared from pomade, 200 gr. ambergris essence, 3 l. vanilla essence, 5 gr. bitter-almond oil. This perfume is particularly suitable for perfuming linen in wardrobes.