Various Eau de Cologne Recipes c1900

All recipes taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900. Most of them are earlier formulas that the journal culled from old books.


Superior Eau de Cologne c1900

• 3,000 ozs Spirit 
• 10 oz Neroli oil bigarade 
• 5 oz Rosemary oil  
• 15 oz Lemon oil 
• 5 oz Bergamot oil  
• 15 oz Pomegranate skin oil 

Princes Eau de Cologne 

• 3,000 ozs Spirit 
• 3 oz Rosemary oil 
• 10 oz Mitcham lavender oil 
• 50 oz Bergamot oil
• 50 oz Lemon oil
• 10 oz Bigarade neroli oil

Eau de Cologne #1. 

• 3,000 ozs Spirit 
• 6 oz Petit-grain oil 
• 2 oz Bigarade neroli oil
• 2 oz Lavender oil
• 5 oz Rosemary oil
• 12 oz Bergamot oil
• 12 oz Lemon oil
• 2 oz Geranium oil

Eau de Cologne #2.

• Spirit 3,000 ozs 
• 30 oz Bergamot oil  
• 30 oz Lemon oil 
•  2 oz Lavender oil
• 10 oz Petit grain oil 
• 5 oz White Thyme oil 
• 2 1/2 oz Bigarade Neroli oil 

Eau de Cologne with Artificial Perfumes 

• 3,000 oz Spirit 
• 15 oz Mitcham Lavender oil 
• 12 oz Schimmel's Neroli 
• 22 oz Heine's Orange Blossom 
• 5 oz Geranium oil 
• 30 oz Lemon oil 
• 15 oz Bergamot oil 

Blumen Eau 

• 3,000 oz Basis Spirit
• 40 oz Bergamot oil 
• 30 oz Lemon oil 
• 10 oz Schimmel's Neroli 
• 5 oz Lavender oil 
• 2 oz Petit grain oil
• 5 oz White thyme oil 

To every 1,000 ozs of this add the ingredients the several varieties, A - F inclusive as below:



A. Rose Water 

• Rosewood oil 10 oz 
• Rose geranium oil 10 oz 
• Heine's Pose blossom 2 oz 

B. Elder flower 

• Terpinoel 25 ozs 
• Schimmel's Jasmine 8 oz 

C. Lily of the Valley 

• Linaloe oil 20 ozs 
• Schimmel's Jasmine 8 oz 
• Lily Blossom oil Heiko to 1 oz 

D. Mignonette 

• Schimmel's Mignonette Geranium 10 oz 
• Mignonette oil, Heiko 2 oz 

E. Vinegar especially for southern climates export 

• Acetic acid 30 oz 
• Acetic ether 20 oz 
• Water 100 oz 

F. Ice Water Menthol 

• 20 ozs or according to requirements.

A cheap form of Eau de Cologne may be made the following recipe:

After standing a month it be mixed with china clay and white of egg and filtered

• 90 per cent spirit 1,000 ozs 
• Bergamot oil 6 oz 
• Lemon oil 15 oz 
• Rosemary oil 1 oz 
• Lavender oil 2 1/2 oz 
• Water 1,000 oz 

Eau de Cologne (La Deuxieme Qualite)

• 6 gallons Spirit (from corn)
• 2 oz Otto of orange peel
• 2 oz Otto of lemon peel
• 2 oz Otto of neroli, Petitgain
• 2 oz Otto of neroli, Petale
• 2 oz Otto of rosemary
• 2 oz Otto of bergamot peel

Mix with agitation; then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly quiet, before bottling.

A great many forms for the manufacture of Eau de Cologne have been published, the authors of some of the recipes evidently having no knowledge, in a practical sense, of what they were putting by theory on paper; other venturers, to show their lore, have searched out all the aromatics of Lindley's Botany, and would persuade us to use absinthe, hyssop, anise, juniper, marjoram, caraway, fennel, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet, angelica, cloves, lavender, camphor, balm, peppermint, galanga, lemon thyme,etc



Durokereau's Eau de Cologne
To 7 quarts French tasteless alcohol, add:

• 11 drachms essence of Portugal
• 13 drachms essence of bergamot
• 1 ounce essence of lemon
• 10 drachms essence of neroli
• 1 ounce essence of rosemary
• 1 ounce essence of lavender
• 14 drachms rose water
• 13 drachms jasmin water
• 15 drachms orange-flower water

Mix the whole together, let it stand 24 hours, and distill over a water-bath.



Piesse's Best Quality Cologne
Mix with agitation:

• 3 ounces attar of neroli petals;
• 1 ounce attar of neroli bigarade
• 2 ounces attar of rosemary
• 5 ounces attar of orange zest
• 5 ounces attar of citron zest
• 2 ounces attar of bergamot
•  6 gallons 95 per cent, grape spirit

Let it stand perfectly quiet for a few days. Although very fine eau de Cologne is often made by merely mixing the ingredients, it is better first to mix all the citrine attars with spirit, then distill the mixture, and afterwards add the rosemary and nerolies. This method is adopted by the most popular house in Cologne.


Goufife's Eau de Cologne

• 1/2 ounce each essence of lemon
• 1/2 ounce each essence of  bergamot
• 1/2 ounce each essence of and citron
• 4 ounce essence of rosemary
• 1/8 ounce essence of neroli

 Infuse for 8 days in 1 quart 95 per cent, alcohol. Filter, and bottle for use.


Cologne Essence

Oil of bergamot 2 drs., essence of lemon 1/2 dr., essence of cedrat 1/2 dr., true oil of rosemary 15 drops, rectified spirit (or spirit of balm) 1 1/2 oz.

Essence of Cologne; Cologne-Essence ; Concentrated Eau de Cologne. 

This is prepared from the same odorous ingredients as " Eau de Cologne," but taking 7 or 8 times the quantity, and using alcohol or the strongest rectified spirit, without which a permanent solution of the whole of them cannot be formed. Used as a condensed and convenient substitute for ordinary "Eau de Cologne " by travelers, being less bulky. It is also kept in stock by druggists and perfumers, to enable them to prepare that article extemporaneously, by simply diluting it with 8 times its bulk of spirit of the appropriate strength.

Ordinary Cologne

Take 10 qts alcohol at 85° and mix with the following:

• 2 oz essence of lemon
• 10 drams essence of rosemary
• 5 drams essence of lavender
• 1 1/4 drams essence of neroli
• 1 1/4 drams tincture of benzoin
• 1/2 dram essence of thyme
• 1/2 dram essence of clove
• 1/4 dram essence of peppermint
• 2 lbs. rosewater

Cologne Water: 

• Oil Neroli 2 drachms 
• Oil Orange peel 1/2 ounce
• Oil Citron 1 drachm
• Oil Bergamot  2 drachms 
• Oil Lavendar 1/2 drachm 
• Oil Rosemary 1/2 drachm 
• Oil Cinnamon 1 scruple 
• Cardamoms powdered 2 drachms 
• Balsam of Peru 2 drachms 
• Rectified spirits 7 pounds 

Macerate 10 days then distil 6 pounds with a gentle heat. 

Cologne (Eau de Cologne):

Truly good, first-class Eau de Cologne can only be made with real wine spirit. Ordinary spirit can be used for inferior species. The softest, very refreshing colognes are obtained in such a way that the essential oils, except for rosemary and "Neroli" oils, are dissolved in the spirit, distilled and other oils are added to the obtained distillate.

1. - Eau de Cologne superieure: 70 gr. bergamot oil, 170 gr. lemon oil, 100 gr. "Neroli petale" oil, 35 gr. "Neroli bigarade" oil, 70 gr. rosemary oil, 30 liters of alcohol.

2. - 8 gr. bergamot oil, 4 gr. lemon oil, 20 drops of "Neroli biga rade" oil, 6 drops of "Origanum" oil, 20 drops of rosemary oil, 30 gr. orange blossom water, 380 cm3. rectified wine spirit.

3.- 130 gr. bergamot oil, 130 gr. lemon oil, 20 gr. "Neroli-petale" oil, 130 gr. orange oil (from the skins), 70 gr. "Petigrain" oil, 70 gr. rosemary oil, 30 liters of alcohol.

4. - From the gr. bergamot oil, 3.5 gr. lemon oil, 20 drops of "Neroli" oil, 6 drops of "Origanum" oil, 20 drops of rosemary oil, 0.5 l of the best wine spirit, 30 gr. water from orange blossoms.

5.- 50 gr. bergamot oil, 100 gr. lemon oil / 10 gr. lavender oil, 15 gr. "Neroli" oil, 5 gr. rosemary, 30 1. alcohol.

6.- 60 gr. bergamot oil, 30 gr. lemon oil, 15 gr. lavender oil, 8 gr. Melissa oil, 8 gr. "Neroli" oil, 30 liters of alcohol.

7.- 100 gr. bergamot oil, 15 gr. lemon oil, 8 gr. lavender oil, 15 gr. Melissa oil, 8 gr. "Neroli" oil, 30 liters of alcohol.

8.- 200 gr. bergamot oil, 100 gr. lemon oil, 100 gr. lavender oil, 30 liters of alcohol.

9.- 500 gr. bergamot oil, 500 gr. lemon oil, 160 gr. lavender oil, 20 gr. "Neroli" oil, 40 gr. rosemary oil, 30 liters of alcohol.

10.- 65 gr. bergamot oil, 15 gr. cabbage oil, 130 gr. lemon oil, 160 gr. lavender oil, 65 gr. "Neroli" oil, 130 gr. Portuguese oil, 15 gr. "Petitgrain" oil, 1l. orange blossom water, 30 liters of alcohol.

Illyris Perfume c1900

• 30 fluid ozs tincture of heliotropine 
• 6 fluid ozs opoponax perfume 
• 1/2 fluid dr extract of ambergris 

Method: Mix and tinge with heliotropine color. The simple extracts enumerated had better be bought in bulk, though it would be cheaper to produce the tinctures where synthetic substances are named.

When desired, the perfumes may be diluted with distilled water, but too much must not be added, or cloudiness will ensue.

For the coloring a small quantity of the required aniline is dissolved in spirit, and kept in a bottle as required for use. This is added to the perfume drop by drop.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Espyalo Perfume c1900

• 24 fluid ozs perfumer's spirit 
• 20 fluid ozs tincture of orris 
• 80 drops oil of lemon 
• 75 drops otto rose 
• 60 drops oil of orange 
• 30 drops tincture of musk 

Method: Dissolve the oils in the spirit then add the tinctures, tinting pink.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Zelmera Perfume c1900

• 34 fluid ozs tincture of rhodinol 
• 16 fluid ozs perfumer's spirit 
• 16 fluid ozs extract of cassie 
• 16 fluid ozs extract of orange 
• 1 fluid oz tincture of nerolin fluid 
• 1/2 dr oil of verbena 

Method: Dissolve oil of verbena in the spirit add others and give an orange tint.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Niobene Perfume c1900

• 30 fluid ozs tincture of roseol 
• 20 fluid ozs perfumer's spirit 
• 20 fluid ozs orange blossoms perfume 
• 2 1/2  fluid ozs tincture of civet 
• 2 fluid ozs tincture of benzoin 

Method: Mix without coloring.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Idriol Perfume c1900

• 40 fluid ozs tincture of rhodinol 
• 20 fluid ozs extract of orange 
• 10 fluid ozs moss rose perfume 
• 10 fluid ozs extract of cassie 
• 10 fluid ozs tincture of irisone 
• 4 fluid ozs tincture of musk (diluted)

Method: Mix and tint with spirit rose.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Elytra Perfume c1900

• 40 fluid ozs opoponax perfume 
• 23 fluid ozs white rose perfume 
• 17 fluid ozs violette de bois perfume 
• 6 fluid drs tincture of musk 

Method: Mix the first three then add the tincture of musk giving a lavender tint with aniline.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Zuleika Perfume c1900

• 72 fluid ozs perfumer's spirit 
• 72 fluid ozs tincture of roseol 
• 60 fluid ozs extract of Jasmine 
• 40 fluid ozs tincture of orris 
• 40 fluid ozs tincture of vanillin 
• 10 fluid ozs extract of civet 
• 4 fluid ozs oil of lignum aloes 

Method: Dissolve the lignum aloe oil in the spirit then add the others as written very faintly tinging with spirit green.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Sinhali Perfume c1900

• 40 fluid ozs extract of jasmin 
• 40 fluid ozs tincture of rhodinol 
• 20 fluid ozs extract of cassie 
• 10 fluid ozs tincture of vanillin 
• 5 fluid ozs tincture of storax fluid dr tincture of irisone or violettol (strong)

Method: Mix coloring a faint rose tint with spirit rose.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Dyrel Perfume c1900

• 25 fluid ozs tincture of rhodinol 
• 15 fluid ozs tincture of orris 
• 10 fluid ozs extract of cassie 
• 8 fluid ozs extract of orange 
• 5 fluid ozs tincture of vanillin (Monnet)
• 5 fluid ozs tincture of irisone 
• 2 fluid ozs extract of civet 
• 1 fluid ozs tincture of musk 

Method:  Mix and tinge yellow.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Mysolia Perfume c1900

• 26 fluid ozs ess bouquet perfume 
• 25 fluid ozs Jockey Club perfume 
• 12 fluid ozs tincture of heliotropine 

Method: Mix and tinge a lilac tint with aniline.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

All Flower Water c1779

Source: The Toilet of Flora. c1779

Pour into a large vessel:

• 5 quarts of strong Spirit of Wine, and infuse in it the following Flowers, as they come in season: 

• 1/4 pound Violets
• 1/4 pound Hyacinths
• 1/4 pound Wall Flowers 
• 2 ounces single Jonquils
• 2 ounces double Jonquils
• 1/4 pound of Lilies of the Valley 
• 1/4 pound Spanish Jasmine 
• 1/2 ounce of Rosemary Flowers 
• 1 ounce of Elder Flowers 
• 2 ounces of Wild Roses, bruised
• 2 ounces of Damask, bruised
• 2 ounces of White Roses, bruised; 
• 3 ounces of Orange Flowers 
• 1/4 pound of Clove-July-flowers,
• 1/4 pound Syringo Blossoms (seringa = mock orange blossom) 
• 1/4 pound Tuberoses
• 1/4 pound Tops of Mint in Flower
• 30 drops of Quintessence of Musk-seed

The latter, however, need not be added till the time of distillation, which must not be till three days after the last Flowers have been in- fused. Perform the operation in a water bath, and having carefully luted the head and receiver, which mutt be placed in a tub of cold water, to preserve the scent, draw off about three quarts and a pint with a moderate fire, then change the receiver, fix on another, and draw off another pint, which, though of an inferior quality, is well worth preserving.

Various Jockey Club Formulas

Extrait Jockey-Club:

extrait d'eglantine 4 liter

extrait de bouquet des dames 2 liters

Extrait Jockey-Club:

extrait de tuberose 2 liters

extrait d'orange 2 liters

infusion d'iris 1 liter

extrait de mousseline 6 liters

extrait de miel 5 liters

extrait d'essence de bouquet 3 liters

extrait de lavande Mitcham 1 liters

English Jockey Club Perfume:

• 2 pts Extract of orris-root 
• 1 pt esprit de rose, triple 
• 1 pt esprit de rose 
• 1/2 pt extrait de cassia 
• 1/2 pt extrait de tubereuse 
• 1/2 pt extrait de ambergris 
• 1/2 oz otto of bergamot

French Jockey Club Perfume:

• 1 pt Esprit de rose
• 1 pt esprit de tuberose
• 1/2 pt esprit de cassia
• 1/4 pt esprit de jasmin
• 3 oz. extract of civet

American Jockey Club Perfume:

• 6 drams Oil of Bergamot
• 15 drops Oil of Lavender
• 8 drops Oil of Rose
• 4 ounces Orris Root Tincture
• 1 1/2 ounce Vanilla Tincture
• 4 ounces Cologne Spirits
• 7 ounces Rosewater

Mix as above.

Jockey Club Bouquet Perfume:

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of tuberose
• 1/2 pint extract of cassia
• 4 ounces extract of jasmin
• 3 ounces tincture of civet

Filter the mixture.

Jockey Club Perfume #1:

• 5 gallons spirits of wine
• 1 gallon orange flower water
• 4 oz balsam of Peru
• 8 oz essence of bergamot
• 8 oz essence of musk
• 4 oz essence of cloves
• 2 oz essence of neroli

Mix.

Jockey Club Bouquet #2:

• 1 pint Extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of cassie 
• 1 pint extract of orange flower 
• 1/2 pint Tincture of orris 
• 1/4 pint tincture of ambergris
• 1/4 pint tincture of musk 
• 1 ounce Oil of bergamot
• 1 drachm oil of rose 
• 8 ounces Orange-flower water 

This is of English origin, and has a great name and a great sale.

Jockey Club #3:

• Oil bergamot parts 5 
• Oil rose geranium parts 5 
• Tincture ambergris parts 50 
• Extract jasmine parts 250 
• Extract iris parts 350 
• Alcohol parts 340 

The next formula from Dieterich's Manual is said to yield a superb perfume. 

Jockey Club #4:

• Extract jasmine grains 30.0 
• Extract tuberose grains 30.0 
• Spirit nitrous ether grains  5.0 
• Storax grains  5.0 
• Civet grains  0.02 
• Musk grains  0.05 
• Coumarin grains  0 07 
• Heliotropin grains  0.01 
• Oil rose grains 1.00 
• Oil bergamot grains 0.50 
• Oil rose geranium, French 5 drops
• Oil orange flower 5 drops
• Oil cinnamon Ceylon 2 drops
• Oil rosewood 2 drops
• Oil bitter almond 2 drops
• Oil linaloe 2 drops
• Oil iris 2 drops
• Oil coriander 1 drops
• Alcohol absolute grains 135.00 

Triturate the musk and civet with a little water before adding to the other ingredients 

Jockey Club #5: 

• Essence acacia parts 1,000 
• Essence tuberose parts 1,200
• Essence vanilla parts 600
• Essence jasmine parts 1,000
• Essence rose parts 500
• Essence civet parts 300
• Essence bergamot parts 25
• Essence rose geranium parts 5
• Essence lemon parts 20

Jockey Club #6:

• Spirit 4000 grammes
• Water 500  grammes
• Musk tincture 60 grammes
• Bergamot oil 60 grammes
• Tonka beans essence 60  grammes
• Clove oil 30 grammes grammes
• Cassia oil 10 grammes
• Palmarosa oil 20 grammes
• Lavender oil 15 grammes

Jockey Club #7:

• Ambrette Oil 1 dr 
• Cassie Oil 1 1/2 dr
• Rose Oil 3 1/2 dr
• Linalyl Acetate 6 dr
• Tolu Tincture 12 dr
• Musk Tincture 2 oz 
• Orris Tincture 2 1/2 oz
• Jasmine 4 1/2 oz
• Rose 5 oz

Extract Jockey Club 

• 4 parts Triple Extract Rose 
• 4 parts Triple Extract Tuberose 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Cassie 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Jasmine 
• 3 parts Extract Orris 
• 1 part Extract Ambergris 
• 1 part Extract Civet 
• 2 parts Essence Rose 
• 5 parts Cologne Spirit 

Mix

taken from Fenner's Complete Formulary, 1888.


Jockey Club Bouquet. 
Extract of orris root 2 pints, esprit de rose triple 1 pint, esprit de pommade de rose 1 pint, extract of pomade of cassia, and tuberose, 1/2 pint each, extract of ambergris 1/2 pint, oil of bergamot 1/2 oz.


Jockey Club #8:

• Tincture of cassie 17 ounces 
• Tincture of tuberose 20 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmin 17 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 8 1/2 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 10 ounces 
• Tincture of civet 5 ounces 
• Oil of bergamot 3 drams 
• Oil of lemon 3 drams 
• Oil of rose geranium 1 dram 

Mix and filler if necessary.


Jockey Club #9:

• Tincture of jasmine 10 ounces 
• Tincture of orange flowers 8 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 8 ounces 
• Tincture of cassie 8 ounces 
• Tincture of coumarin 4 ounces 
• Tincture of civet 2 ounces 
• Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 4 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
• Oil of rose 1 dram 

Mix and filter if necessary.




Jockey Club: 

• Oil of bergamot 1 1/2 drams 
• Oil of lavender 1/2 dram 
• Oil of rose 15 minims 
• Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 1 ounce 
• Tincture of orris root 8 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 3 ounces 
• Cologne spirits 188 per ct 8 ounces 
• Rose water 14 ounces 

Mix the oils and tincture with 4 ounces of cologne spirits, place the magnesia in a mortar, pour on the solution of oils and triturate well, take the remaining 16 ounces of spirits, mix with the 14 ounces of water, and slowly add to the contents of the mortar stirring constantly and uniformly for 10 minutes. Filter through filtering paper and at as low a temperature as possible. If weather is warm, filter in an ice chest at a temperature of about 40 F. The product should measure 2 pints.

JOCKEY CLUB #1 

• Jasmine extrait 
• Otto of rose 
• Essence of musk 
• Tincture of Tonka bean 
• Cologne spirit 

JOCKEY CLUB #2 

• Spirit of rose 
• Tuberose extrait 
• Cassie extrait 
• Essence of civet 
• Rose extrait 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Orange flower extrait 
• Essence of musk 

JOCKEY CLUB #3:

• Tincture of orris 
• Essence of civet 
• Essence of ambergris 
• Essence of musk 
• Cassie extrait 
• Tuberose extrait 
• Rose extrait 
• Spirit of rose 

Lubins Jockey Club:

• Extract Rose from Pomade 9 ounces
• Orange from Pomade 9 ounces
• Essence Mousseline 6 ounces
• Essence Cassia 1 ounce 
• Tincture Civet 8 drachms 
• Tincture Ambrette (1 to 8) 8 drachms 
• Oil Rose 15 drops 
• Bergamot 3 drachms
• Lemon 1/2 drachm 

Mix .   

Jockey-Club:

1. (English recipe). 0.5 l of acacia essence, 0.36 l of ambergris essence, 0.75 l of rose essence, 0.35 l of tuberose essence and 1.5 l of violet root essence, 0.75 l of Esprit de Roses triple, 20 gr. bergamot oil.

2. (French recipe). 4 liters of rose pomade extract, 2 liters of tuberose pomade extract, 2 liters of acacia extract, 2 liters of jasmine extract, 760 gr. Tibet essence.

3.600 gr. rose extract, 390 gr. "Cassia" extract, 390 gr. jasmine extract, 600 gr. violet extract, 600 gr. violet root extract, 480 gr. tuberose extract, 120 gr. cybet extract, 60 gr. musk extract, 30 gr. bergamot oil, 45 drops of bergamot oil, 45 drops of rose oil.

4.300 gr. nutmeg tincture, 300 gr. benzoin tincture, 800 gr. vanilla tincture, 30 gr. "Gaultheria" oil, 80 gr. peruvian balm, 30 gr. "Neroli" oil, 125 gr. rose-geranium oil, 2.5 gr. rose oil, 15 gr. bitter-almond oil, 125 gr. clove oil, 125 gr. lavender oil, 60 gr. orange essential oil, 80 gr. iris oil.

Various Fleur d'Italie Formulas

• 2 pts Esprit de rose
• 1 pt esprit de rose, triple
• 1 pt esprit de jasmin
• 1 pt esprit de violette
• 1/2 pt extract of cassia
• 2 oz. extract of musk
• 2 oz. extract of Ambergris

Extrait de Fleurs d'Italie:

extrait de mousseline 2 liters

extrait d'orange 2 liters

extrait de tuberose 2 liters

extrait de roses 2 liters

extrait de cassie 2 liters

extrait de jasmine 2 liters

extrait d'essence de bouquet 1 liter

extrait de Marie-Anna 2 liters

Italian Nosegay or Fleur d'ltalie 

• 2 pints essence of rose pomade 
• 1 pint jasmine
• 1 pint violet 
• 1/2 pint cassie 
• 1/2 pint tuberose 
• 2 oz tonquin 
• 2 oz ambergris 
• 2 oz musk  

Fiori di 'Italia:

• Extract of cassie 1 pint 
• Tincture of ambergris 5 oz 
• Extract of jasmine 1 qt 
• Tincture of musk 5 oz 
• Extract of rose 2 qts 
• Extract of violet 1 qt 
• Essence of rose triple 1 qt 

Fleur d Italie 

• Essence of ambergris 
• Essence of musk 
• Spirit of rose 
• Cassie extrait 
• Tuberose extrait 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Violet extrait 
• Rose extrait

Abeer, or aromatic powder of the Muslim women

Take equal parts of:

• rose
• aloes-wood
• sandalwood
• turmeric
• camphor
• civet

Dry and grind to fine powder. Mix together. This powder is to be rubbed all over the face or body.

Georgian Cold Cream

Take:

• 2 ounces of sweet oil of almonds
• 3 drachms of white wax
• 3 drachms of spermaceti
• 2 ounces of rose-water
• 1 drachm of oil of bergamot
• 15 drops of oil of lavender
• 15 drops of otto of roses

Melt the wax and spermaceti in the oil of almonds, by placing them together in a jar, which should be plunged into boiling water. Heat a mortar (which should, if possible, be marble) by pouring boiling water into it, and letting it remain there until the mortar is uniformly heated ; the water is to be poured away, and the mortar dried well. Pour the melted wax and spermaceti into the warm mortar, and add rose-water gradually, while the mixture is constantly stirred or whisked with an egg-whisp, until the whole is cold, and, when nearly finished, add the oils and otto of roses. In the absence of a mortar, a basin plunged into an other containing boiling water will answer the purpose.

Pastilles de Serail, or Pastilles of the Harem

• 24 grams of olibanum
• 24 grams of storax
• 16 grams of nitre
• 124 grams of pulverized charcoal

For Rose Pastilles, use the above:

• 32 grams of rose petals
• 2 grams of essence of rose

For Orange Blossom Pastilles, use the first recipe and add:

• 24 grams of galbanum
• 32 grams of dried pulverized orange peel
• 2 grams essence of neroli

For vanilla pastilles, use the first recipe and add:

• 24 grams of galbanum
• 16 grams of cloves
• 32 grams of vanilla
• 1 gram essence of cloves
• 16 grams essence of vanilla

Classic Pastilles du Serail:

• 65 gr Benzoin
• 16 gr Tolu balsam
• 4 gr Labdanum
• 16 gr yellow sandalwood
• 192 gr light charcoal
• 8 gr potassium nitrate

Rose Lip Salve

Take:

• 8 ounces sweet almond oil
• 4 ounces prepared mutton suet
• 1 ounces white wax
• 2 ounces spermaceti
• 20 drops otto

Steep a small quantity of alkanet root in the oil, and strain before using. Melt the suet, wax, and spermaceti together, then add the coloric oil and otto.

Maloine Face Powder

Take:

• 4 ounces of powdered marsh-mallow roots
• 2 ounces of powdered white starch
• 3 drachms of powdered orris-root
• 20 drops of essence of jasmine

Mix well, and sift through fine muslin. This is one of the most agreeable and elegant cosmetics yet known for softening and whitening the skin, preserving it from chapping, and being so simple that it may be applied to the most delicate or irritable skin.

Aromatic Spirit of Ammonia, Smelling Salts

Take:

• 8 ounces of carbonate of ammonia
• 4 ounces strong liquor of ammonia(.882) 
• 4 drachms volatile oil of nutmeg
• 6 drachms oil of lemon
• 6 pints rectified spirit
• 3 pints water

Mix, and distill 7 pints. Specific gravity .870. This is now the only authorized formula. The product is excellent, and very agreeable in use. (Br. Ph.)

Ammoniacal Lavender Water

Take of oil of lavender (English) 1 fluid ounce; spirit of ammonia (caustic) 11/2 pints; mix. The product is the officinal preparation of the French. Used as a stimulating pungent scent, in fainting, headaches, etc..


Lavander Ammonia-cale

To each Imperial pint of eau de lavande, add of liquor of ammonia (.880-.882), 1/2 to 1 fluid ounce.

Sachet au Cypre

• 1 lb ground rosewood
• 1 lb ground cedarwood
• 1 lb ground sandalwood
• 3 drachms otto of rose or otto of rhodium

Mix and sift, then is ready for sale.

The French and English perfumers concoct a great variety of these substances, which being put into silk bags, or ornamental envelopes,find a ready sale, being both good to smell and economical as a means of
imparting an agreeable odor to linen and clothes as they lie in drawers. The following formula shows their composition. Every material is either to be ground in a mill, or powdered in a mortar, and afterwards sifted.

Imitation Essence of Violet Perfume

• 1 pt. Extract of cassia
• 1/2 pint extract of rose
• 1/2 pint tincture of orris
• 1/2 pint extract of tuberose

Imitation Essence of Wallflower Perfume

Wallflower #1:

• 1 pt Extrait fleur d'orange
• 1/2 pt. extract of vanilla
• 1 pt. esprit de rose
• 1/2 pt. extract of orris
• 1/2 pt extract of cassia
• 1/4 dram essential oil of almonds 

Allow this mixture to be made for 2 or 3 weeks prior to use.

Extract of Wallflower (Extrait de Girofle):

• 1 qt extract of jasmine, made from the pomade
• 1 qt extract of orange flower, made from the pomade
• 1 qt extract of rose, made from the pomade
• 1 pint tincture of vanilla
• 1 pint tincture of orris root
• 1 oz Oeillet (base by Naef)
• 1 dram musk xylene, 100%

The Language of Flowers

How beautiful and yet how cheap are flowers! Not exotics, but what are called common flowers. A rose, for instance, is among the most beautiful of the smiles of nature. The "laughing flowers," exclaims the poet. But there is more than gaiety in blooming flowers, though it takes a wise man to see the beauty, the love, and the adaptation of which they are full.

What should we think of one who had invented flowers, supposing that, before him, flowers were unknown? Would he not be regarded as the opener-up of a paradise of new delight? Should we not hail the inventor as a genius, as a god? And yet these lovely offsprings of the earth have been speaking to man from the first dawn of his existence until now, telling him of the goodness and wisdom of the Creative Power, which bid the earth bring forth, not only that which was useful as food, but also flowers, the bright consummate flowers to clothe it in beauty and joy!

FLOWERS.
"The meanest flower that blows, can give
Thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears."

Bring one of the commonest field-flowers into a room, place it on a table, or chimney-piece, and you seem to have brought a ray of sunshine into the place. There is a cheerfulness about flowers. What a delight are they to the drooping invalid! They are a sweet enjoyment, coming as messengers from the country, and seeming to say, "Come and see the place where we grow, and let your heart be glad in our presence."

There is a sentiment attached to flowers, and this sentiment has been expressed in language by giving names to various flowers, shrubs and plants. These names constitute a language, which may be made the medium of pleasant and amusing interchange of thought between men and women. A bouquet of flowers and leaves may be selected and arranged so as to express much depth of feeling—to be truly a poem. We present herewith a list of many flowers and plants, to which, by universal consent, a sentiment has become attached.

A
Acacia—Concealed love.
Acacia, Rose—Friendship.
Acanthus—Arts.
Adonis Vernalis—Bitter memories.
Agnus Casus—Coldness.
Agrimony—Thankfulness.
Almond—Hope.
Aloe—Superstition.
Althea—Consumed by love.
Alyssum, Sweet—Worth beyond beauty.
Amaranth—Immortality.
Amaryllis—Splendid beauty.
Ambrosia—Love returned.
Anemone—Expectation.
Anemone, Garden—Forsaken.
Angelica—Inspiration.
Apocynum (Dogbane)—Inspiration.
Apple—Temptation.
Apple Blossom—Preference.
Arbor vitæ—Unchanging friendship.
Arbutus, Trailing—Welcome.
Arum—Ardor.
Ash—Grandeur.

Ash, Mountain—Prudence.
Aspen Tree—Lamentation.
Asphodel—Regrets beyond the grave.
Aurilica—Avarice.
Azalea—Romance.

B

Bachelor's Button—Hope in love.
Balm—Sympathy.
Balm of Gilead—Healing.
Balsam—Impatience.
Barberry—Sharpness, satire.
Basil—Hatred.
Bay Leaf—No change till death.
Beech—Prosperity.
Bee Ophrys—Error.
Bee Orchis—Industry.
Bell Flower—Gratitude.
Belvidere, Wild (Licorice)—I declare against you.
Bilberry—Treachery.
Birch Tree—Meekness.
Black Bryony—Be my support.
Bladder-Nut Tree—Frivolous amusements.
Blue Bottle—Delicacy.
Borage—Bluntness.
Box—Constancy.
Briers—Envy.
Broken Straw—Constancy.
Broom—Neatness.
Buckbean—Calm repose.
Bugloss—Falsehood.
Burdock—Importunity.
Buttercup—Riches.

C
Cactus—Thou leavest me.
Calla Lilly—Feminine beauty.
Calycanthus—Benevolence.
Camelia—Pity.
Camomile—Energy in action.
Candytuft—Indifference.
Canterbury Bell—Gratitude.
Cape Jasmine Gardenia—Transport, ecstasy.
Cardinal Flower—Distinction.
Carnation, Yellow—Disdain.
Catchfly (Silene), Red—Youthful love.
Catchfly, White—I fall a victim.
Cedar—I live for thee.
Cedar of Lebanon—Incorruptible.
Celandine—Future joy.
Cherry Tree—Good education.
Chickweed—I cling to thee.
Chickory—Frugality.
China Aster—I will think of thee.
China, Pink—Aversion.
Chrysanthemum, Rose—In love.
Chrysanthemum, White—Truth.
Chrysanthemum, Yellow—Slighted love.
Cinquefoil—Beloved child.
Clematis—Artifice.
Clover, Red—Industry.
Cobœa—Gossip.
Coxcomb—Foppery.
Colchium—My best days fled.
Coltsfoot—Justice shall be done you.
Columbine—Folly.
Columbine, Purple—Resolved to win.
Columbine, Red—Anxious.
Convolvulus Major—Dead hope.
Convolvulus Minor—Uncertainty.
Corchorus—Impatience of happiness.
Coreopsis—Love at first sight.
Coriander—Hidden merit.
Corn—Riches.
Cornelian Cherry Tree—Durability.
Coronilla—Success to you.
Cowslip—Pensiveness.
Cowslip, American—My divinity.
Crocus—Cheerfulness.
Crown Imperial—Majesty.
Currants—You please me.
Cypress—Mourning.
Cypress and Marigold—Despair.

D
Daffodil—Chivalry.
Dahlia—Forever thine.
Daisy, Garden—I share your feelings.
Daisy, Michaelmas—Farewell.
Daisy, Red—Beauty unknown to possessor.
Daisy, White—Innocence.
Daisy, Wild—I will think of it.
Dandelion—Coquetry.
Daphne Mezereon—I desire to please.
Daphne Odora—I would not have you otherwise.
Deadleaves—Sadness.
Diosma—Usefulness.
Dittany—Birth.
Dock—Patience.
Dodder—Meanness.
Dogwood Flowering (Cornus)—Am I indifferent to you?

E
Ebony—Hypocrisy.
Eglantine—I wound to heal.
Elder—Compassion.
Elm—Dignity.
Endine—Frugality.
Epigæa, Repens (Mayflower)—Budding beauty.
Eupatorium—Delay.
Evening Primrose—Inconstancy.
Evergreen—Poverty.
Everlasting (Graphalium)—Never ceasing memory.

F
Filbert—Reconciliation.
Fir Tree—Elevation.
Flax—I feel your kindness.
Flora's Bell—Without pretension.
Flowering Reed—Confide in heaven.
Forget-me-not—True love.
Foxglove—Insincerity.
Fraxinella—Fire.
Fritilaria (Guinea-hen Flower)—Persecution.
Furze—Anger.
Fuchsia—The ambition of my love thus plagues itself.
Fuchsia, Scarlet—Taste.

G
Gardenia—Transport; Ecstasy.
Gentian, Fringed—Intrinsic worth.
Geranium, Apple—Present preference.
Geranium, Ivy—Your hand for next dance.
Geranium, Nutmeg—I expect a meeting.
Geranium, Oak—Lady, deign to smile.
Geranium, Rose—Preference.
Geranium, Silver-leaf—Recall.
Gillyflower—Lasting beauty.
Gladiolus—Ready armed.
Golden Rod—Encouragement.
Gooseberry—Anticipation.
Goosefoot—Goodness.
Gorse—Endearing affection.
Grape—Charity.
Grass—Utility.
Guelder Rose (Snowball)—Winter.

H
Harebell—Grief.
Hawthorn—Hope.
Heart's Ease—Think of me.
Heart's Ease, Purple—You occupy my thoughts.
Hazel—Reconciliation.
Heath—Solitude.
Helenium—Tears.
Heliotrope, Peruvian—I love; devotion.
Hellebore—Scandal.
Henbane—Blemish.
Hepatica—Confidence.
Hibiscus—Delicate Beauty.
Holly—Foresight.
Hollyhock—Fruitfulness.
Hollyhock, White—Female ambition.
Honesty (Lunaria)—Sincerity.
Honeysuckle—The bond of love.
Honeysuckle, Coral—The color of my fate.
Honeysuckle, Monthly—I will not answer hastily.
Hop—Injustice.
Hornbeam—Ornament.
Horse-Chestnut—Luxury.
House-Leek—Domestic Economy.
Houstonia—Content.
Hoya (Wax Plant)—Sculpture.
Hyacinth—Jealousy.
Hyacinth, Blue—Constancy.
Hyacinth, Purple—Sorrow.
Hydrangea—Heartlessness.

I
Ice Plant—Your looks freeze me.
Indian Cress—Resignation.
Ipomaca—I attach myself to you.
Iris—Message.
Iris, German—Flame.
Ivy—Friendship; matrimony.

J
Jessamine, Cape—Transient joy.
Jessamine, White—Amiability.
Jessamine, Yellow—Grace; elegance.
Jonquil—Return my affection.
Judas-Tree—Betrayed.
Juniper—Perfect Loveliness.

K
Kalmia (Mountain Laurel)—Treachery.
Kennedia—Intellectual beauty.

L
Laburnum—Pensive Beauty.
Lady's Slipper—Capricious beauty.
Lagerstroema (Cape Myrtle)—Eloquence.
Lantana—Rigor.
Larch—Boldness.
Larkspur—Fickleness.
Laurel—Glory.
Laurestinus—I die if neglected.
Lavender—Distrust.
Lemon Blossom—Discretion.
Lettuce—Cold-hearted.
Lilac—First emotion of love.
Lilac, White—Youth.
Lily—Purity; modesty.
Lily of the Valley—Return of happiness.
Lily, Day—Coquetry.
Lily, Water—Eloquence.
Lily, Yellow—Falsehood.
Linden Tree—Conjugal love.
Live Oak—Liberty.
Liverwort—Confidence.
Locust—Affection beyond the grave.
London Pride—Frivolity.
Lotus—Forgetful of the past.
Love in a Mist—You puzzle me.
Love Lies Bleeding—Hopeless, not heartless.
Lucerne—Life.
Lungwort (Pulmonaria)—Thou art my life.
Lupine—Imagination.
Lychnis—Religious Enthusiasm.
Lythrum—Pretension.

M
Madder—Calumny.
Maiden's Hair—Discretion.
Magnolia, Chinese—Love of Nature.
Magnolia, Grandiflora—Peerless and Proud.
Magnolia, Swamp—Perseverance.
Mallow—Sweetness.
Mandrake—Horror.
Maple—Reserve.
Marigold—Cruelty.
Marigold, African—Vulgar-minded.
Marigold, French—Jealousy.
Marjoram—Blushes.
Marshmallow—Beneficence.
Marvel of Peru (Four o'clock)—Timidity.
Meadow Saffron—My best days gone.
Meadow Sweet—Usefulness.
Mignonette—Your qualities surpass your charms.
Mimosa—Sensitiveness.
Mint—Virtue.
Mistletoe—I surmount all difficulties.
Mock Orange (Syringia)—Counterfeit.
Monkshood—A deadly foe is near.
Moonwort—Forgetfulness.
Morning Glory—Coquetry.
Moss—Maternal love.
Motherwort—Secret Love.
Mourning Bride (Scabious)—Unfortunate attachment.
Mouse-ear Chickweed—Simplicity.
Mulberry, Black—I will not survive you.
Mulberry, White—Wisdom.
Mullein—Good nature.
Mushroom—Suspicion.
Mush Plant—Weakness.
Mustard Seed—Indifference.
Myosotis—Forget me not.
Myrtle—Love.

N
Narcissus—Egotism.
Nasturtium—Patriotism.
Nettle—Cruelty; Slander.
Night Blooming Cereus—Transient beauty.
Nightshade—Bitter truth.

O
Oak—Hospitality.
Oats—Music.
Oleander—Beware.
Orange—Generosity.
Orange Flower—Chastity.
Orchis—Beauty.
Osier—Frankness.
Osmunda—Dreams.

P
Pansy—Think of me.
Parsley—Entertainment.
Pasque Flower—Unpretentious.
Passion Flower—Religious Fervor.
Pea—Appointed meeting.
Pea, Everlasting—Wilt go with me?
Pea, Sweet—Departure.
Peach Blossom—My heart is thine.
Pear Tree—Affection.
Peony—Anger.
Pennyroyal—Flee away.
Periwinkle—Sweet memories.
Persimmon—Bury me amid nature's beauties.
Petunica—Am not proud.
Pheasant's Eye—Sorrowful memories.
Phlox—Our souls united.
Pimpernel—Change.
Pine—Time.
Pine Apple—You are perfect.
Pine, Spruce—Farewell.
Pink—Pure affection.
Pink, Clove—Dignity.
Pink, Double-red—Pure, ardent love.
Pink, Indian—Aversion.
Pink, Mountain—You are aspiring.
Pink, Variegated—Refusal.
Pink, White—You are fair.
Pink, Yellow—Disdain.
Plane Tree—Genius.
Pleurisy Root (Asclopias)—Heartache cure.
Plum Tree—Keep promise.
Plum Tree, Wild—Independence.
Polyanthus—Confidence.
Poplar, Black—Courage.
Poplar, White—Time.
Poppy—Consolation.
Poppy, White—Sleep of the heart.
Pomegranate—Foolishness.
Pomegranate Flower—Elegance.
Potato—Beneficence.
Pride of China (Melia)—Dissension.
Primrose—Early youth.
Primrose, Evening—Inconstancy.
Privet—Mildness.
Pumpkin—Coarseness.

Q
Quince—Temptation.

R
Ragged-robin (Lychnis)—Wit.
Ranunculus—Radiant with charms.
Reeds—Music.
Rhododendron—Agitation.
Rose—Beauty.
Rose, Austrian—Thou art all that is lovely.
Rose, Bridal—Happy love.
Rose, Burgundy—Unconscious beauty.
Rose, Cabbage—Love's Ambassador.
Rose, Campion—Only deserve my love.
Rose, Carolina—Love is dangerous.
Rose, China—Grace.
Rose, Daily—That smile I would aspire to.
Rose, Damask—Freshness.
Rose, Dog—Pleasure and pain.
Rose, Hundred Leaf—Pride.
Rose, Inermis—Ingratitude.
Rose, Maiden's Blush—If you do love me you will find me out.
Rose, Moss—Superior merit.
Rosebud, Moss—Confessed love.
Rose, Multiflora—Grace.
Rose, Musk-cluster—Charming.
Rose, Sweetbriar—Sympathy.
Rose, Tea—Always lovely.
Rose, Unique—Call me not beautiful.
Rose, White—I am worthy of you.
Rose, White (withered)—Transient impression.
Rose, Wild—Simplicity.
Rose, Yellow—Decrease of love.
Rose, York and Lancaster—War.
Roses, Garland of—Reward of Virtue.
Rosebud—Young girl.
Rosebud, White—The heart that knows not love.
Rosemary—Your presence revives me.
Rue—Disdain.
Rush—Docility.

S
Saffron—Excess is dangerous.
Sage—Esteem.
Sardonia—Irony.
Satin-flower (Lunaria)—Sincerity.
Scabious, Mourning Bride—Widowhood.
Sensitive Plant—Timidity.
Service Tree—Prudence.
Snapdragon—Presumption.
Snowball—Thoughts of heaven.
Snowdrop—Consolation.
Sorrel—Wit ill-timed.
Southernwood—Jesting.
Spearmint—Warm feelings.
Speedwell, Veronica—Female fidelity.
Spindle-tree—Your image is engraven on my heart.
Star of Bethlehem—Reconciliation.
Starwort, American—Welcome to a stranger.
St. John's Wort (Hypericum)—Superstition.
Stock, Ten-week—Promptitude.
Stramonium, Common—Disguise.
Strawberry—Perfect excellence.
Strawberry Tree (Arbutus)—Esteemed love.
Sumac—Splendor.
Sunflower, Dwarf—Your devout admirer.
Sunflower, Fall—Pride.
Sweet Sultan—Felicity.
Sweet William—Artifice.
Sycamore—Curiosity.
Syringia—Memory.

T
Tansy—I declare against you.
Teasel—Misanthropy.
Thistle—Austerity.
Thorn Apple—Deceitful charms.
Thorn, Black—Difficulty.
Thorns—Severity.
Thrift—Sympathy.
Throatwood (Pulmonaria)—Neglected beauty.
Thyme—Activity.
Tiger Flower—May pride befriend thee.
Touch me not, Balsam—Impatience.
Truffle—Surprise.
Trumpet Flower—Separation.
Tuberose—Dangerous pleasures.
Tulip—Declaration of love.
Tulip Tree—Rural happiness.
Tulip, Variegated—Beautiful eyes.
Tulip, Yellow—Hopeless love.
Turnip—Charity.

V
Valerian—Accommodating disposition.
Venus's Flytrap—Caught at last.
Venus's Looking-glass—Flattery.
Verbena—Sensibility.
Vine—Intoxicating.
Violet, Blue—Love.
Violet, White—Modesty.
Violet, Yellow—Modest worth.
Virgin's Bower—Filial love.

W
Wall Flower—Fidelity.
Walnut—Stratagem.
Weeping Willow—Forsaken.
Wheat—Prosperity.
Woodbine—Fraternal love.
Wood Sorrel—Joy.
Wormwood—Absence.

Y
Yarrow—Cure for heartache.
Yew—Sorrow.

Z
Zennæ—Absent friends.

Mundus Muliebris by John Evelyn, c1690

Mundus Muliebris: or the ladies dressing-room unlock'd and her toilette spread by John Evelyn, c1690:

A new Scene to us next presents,

The Dressing Room and Implements, 

Of Toilet Plate and Gilt, and Emboss'd,

And several other things of Cost,

The Table Miroir, one Glue Pot,

One for Pomatum, and whatnot?

Of Washes, Unguents and Cosmeticks,

A pair of Silver Candlesticks, 

Snuffers and Snuff Dish, Boxes more,

For Powders, Patches, Water Store,

In silver Flasks, Bottles or Cups, 

 Cover'd or open to wash chaps 

"Vanitas vanitatum omnia vanitas”