Lip Salves and Rouges

Creme de Psyche - for the Lips:

Take:

• 1 ounce White wax 
• 1 ounce spermaceti
• 5 ounces oil of sweet almonds

Melt together, and pour in Mecca balsam, 1 drachm; and stir until the mass congeals, then add 10 grains powdered acetate of lead.

Superior Lip Salve:

White wax, two and a half  ounces ; spermaceti, three quarters of an ounce ; oil of  almonds, four ounces. Mix well together, and apply a  little to the lips at night.

German Lip Salve:

Butter of cacao, 1/2 ounce; oil of almonds, 1/4 ounce; melt together with a gentle heat, and add 6 drops essence of lemon.

French Lip Salve:

Mix together 16 ounces lard, 2 ounces white wax, nitre and alum in fine powder, of each, 1/2 ounce; alkanet to color.

Glycerine Lip Salve:

This is prepared by adding 1/6 to 1/8 part of glycerine to any one of the above whilst in the melted state, and stirring the mixture assiduously until it begins to cool.

White Lip Salve:

Take 1/2 pound spermaceti ointment, liquify it by the heat of warm water, and stir in 1/2 drachm neroli or essence de petitgrain as before.

White Lip Salve #2:

• 1/4 lb Almond oil
• 1 oz Wax
• 1 oz Spermaceti
• 1/2 drachm Otto of almonds
• 1/4 drachm Otto of geranium

After lip salve is poured into the pots and got cold, a red-hot iron must be held over them for a minute or so, in order that the heat radiated from the irons may melt the surface of the salve and give it an even face.

Peruvian Red Lip Salve:

Take:

• 1/2 pound spermaceti ointment
• 3 or 4 drachms alkanet root

Digest, at a gentle heat, until the first has acquired a rich deep red color, then pass it through a coarse strainer. "When the liquid fat has cooled a little, stir in thoroughly 3 drachms balsam of Peru. In a few minutes pour off the clear portion from the dregs (if any), and add 20 to 30 drops oil of cloves. Lastly, before it cools, pour it into the pots or boxes. The product forms the finest and most esteemed Up salve. 2 or 3 drops of essence of ambergris, or of essence royale, improve and vary it.

Rose Lip Salve:

As the above, but using only 1 1/2 drachms balsam of Peru, and replacing the oil of cloves with a few drops of attar of roses, or sufficient to give the mixture a marked odor of roses. Some makers omit the balsam altogether. If uncol-ored, it forms white rose lip salve.

Rose Lip Salve #2:

• 1/2 lb Almond oil 
• 2 oz Spermaceti and wax
• 2 oz Alkanet root
• 1/4 drachm Otto of roses

Place the wax, sperm, and oil on to the alkanet root in a vessel heated by steam or water-bath; after the materials are melted, they must digest on the alkanet to extract its color for at least four or five hours; finally, strain through fine muslin, then add the perfume just before it cools.

Common Lip Salve:

Is made simply of equal parts of lard and suet, colored with alkanet root, and perfumed with an ounce of bergamot to every pound of salve.

To Make Lip Salve:

Melt in a jar placed in a basin of boiling water a quarter of an ounce each of white wax and spermaceti, flour of benzoin fifteen grains, and half an ounce of the ]oil of almonds. Stir till the mixture is cool. Color red with alkanet root.

Pomade Rosat for the Lips:

Melt together:

• 2 ounces white wax
• 4 ounces oil of sweet almonds
• 3 drachms alkanet

Digest for several hours, strain, and add 12 drops attar of rose ; used for the lips.

Paints or Rouges for the Skin

Paints or rouges are the means by which the natural color of the skin may be heightened or changed. They are, however, objectionable preparations, and the use of them extends very little beyond the theatres, where they are employed to produce stage effect.

Caution against Bismuth as a Cosmetic. The continued use of bismuth-white injures the skin, and ultimately produces paralysis of its minute vessels, rendering it yellow and leather- like - an effect which, unfortunately, those who employ it generally attempt to conceal by its freer and more frequent application.

French White. This is the mineral talc, or French chalk, finely powdered and bolted. It forms the basis of the most harmless rouges. Perfume is added as may be desired.

Pearl White. Pure oxide or subnitrate of bismuth in powder. This pigment darkens in atmospheres containing sulphide of hydrogen. 1 ounce triturated with 4 ounces of orange-flower water makes liquid white for theatrical use.

Pearl Powder. Precipitated chalk finely bolted and perfumed. The French add oxides of zinc and bismuth, each 1 ounce to the pound of chalk.

Liquid Blanc for Theatrical Use:

The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to
subdue it.

Madame V----, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than
half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus:--

• Rose or orange-flower water, 1 pint.
• Oxide of bismuth, 4 oz.

Mixed by long trituration.

Perle Face Powder:

• French chalk, 1 lb.
• Oxide of bismuth, 1 oz.
• Oxide of zinc, 1 oz.

Rose Face Powder:

• Wheat starch, 7 lbs.
• Rose Pink, 1/2 drachm.
• Otto of rose, 2 drachms.
• Otto of santal, 2 drachms

Bloom Rose:

This is a preparation of carmine for the face and lips. Take a quarter of a dram of carmine and place it in a phial with half a dram of liquid ammonia; keep for a few days, occasionally shaking the mixture; then dilute with two ounces of rose-water, to which half a dram of essence of roses has been added. Draw off and keep a week or ten days, then apply with the corner of a soft handkerchief, taking care that if the color is too bright it is reduced by means of pure water.

Liquid Rouge:

Harmless—a perfect imitation of nature. For ladies who wish to use a little artificial bloom the following is recommended. A liquid rouge to produce a perfect imitation of the colors of nature is prepared as follows: Add to a pint of French brandy, half an ounce of benzoin, an ounce of red sandalwood, half an ounce of Brazil wood and the same quantity of rock alum. Cork the bottle carefully, shake it well once a day, and at the end of twelve days it will be fit for use. The cheeks are to be lightly touched with it.

Colored Collodion for the Skin:

Take:

• 1 ounce collodion
• 3 grains each pure annotto 
• 3 grains dragon's blood

Digest, with agitation, in a stoppered phial, for 24 hours; and, if necessary, decant the clear portion.

Enamel Powder, to make the skin look like Porcelain:

Take equal parts finely scraped talc or French chalk, and pearl-white; sufficient rouge or carmine to slightly tinge it; mix. Used to conceal discolorations; and, without the coloring, to whiten the skin.

Azure Paste:

Talc and ultramarine, finely bolted, equal parts, triturated with a solution of gum tragacanth into a stiff paste

Carmine Rouge:

• 4 ounces finely bolted talc
•  2 drachms carmine

Mix together with a little warm and dilute solution of gum tragacanth. For lighter shades, the proportion of carmine must be diminished. For commoner pastes, rose-pink replaces the carmine as coloring matter. It may be made into a pomade.