Saturday, November 4, 2017

Kao Tsong


  • 170 gr oakmoss
  • 50 gr jasmine oil absolute
  • 100 gr artificial jasmine oil
  • 50 gr vetiver oil
  • 40 gr sandalwood oil
  • 33 gr ylang ylang
  • 10 gr rose oil (moroccan)
  • 20 gr rose oil (bulgarian)
  • 10 gr patchouli oil
  • 2 gr costus oil
  • 100 gr methyl ionone (violet)
  • 25 gr cinnamic alcohol
  • 45 gr phenylethyl alcohol
  • 30 gr vetiveryl acetate
  • 10 gr styrallyl acetate
  • 40 gr hydroxycitronellal (lily of the valley)
  • 40 gr lilalol
  • 10 gr artificial carnation (extra)
  • 2 gr amylcinnamic aldehyde
  • 20 gr dimethylhydrocinnamyl
  • 100 gr artificial gardenia
  • 5 gr C-10 aldehyde
  • 25 gr C-11 aldehyde
  • 5 gr methyl nonyl aldehyde (to 10%)
  • 20 gr vanillin
  • 10 gr musk ambrette
  • 20 gr musk ketone


Thursday, August 17, 2017

Cremorne Valley Bouquet

  • Tincture of jasmine 10 ounces 
  • Tincture of orange flowers 10 ounces 
  • Tincture of rose 20 ounces 
  • Tincture of violet 10 ounces 
  • Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 1 ounce 
  • Tincture of ambergris 1 ounce 
  • Oil of bergamot 1/2 ounce 
  • Oil of hyacinth geraniol 1 dram 

Mix and filter if necessary. 

Monday, June 5, 2017

To Clean Kid Gloves

Make a solution of one quart of distilled benzine with one-fourth of an ounce of carbonate of ammonia, one-fourth of an ounce of fluid chloroform, one-fourth of an ounce of sulphuric ether. Pour a small quantity into a saucer, put on the gloves, and wash, as if washing the hands, changing the solution until the gloves are clean. Rub them clean and as dry as possible with a clean dry cloth, and take them off and hang them where there is a good current of air to dry. This solution is also excellent for cleaning ribbons, silks, etc., and is perfectly harmless to the most delicate tints. Do not get near the fire when using, as the benzine is very inflammable.

Washing the gloves in turpentine, the same as above, is also a good means of cleaning them.

Friday, May 26, 2017

Lip Salves and Rouges

Creme de Psyche - for the Lips:

Take:
  • 1 ounce White wax 
  • 1 ounce spermaceti
  • 5 ounces oil of sweet almonds

Melt together, and pour in Mecca balsam, 1 drachm; and stir until the mass congeals, then add 10 grains powdered acetate of lead.

Superior Lip Salve:

White wax, two and a half  ounces ; spermaceti, three quarters of an ounce ; oil of  almonds, four ounces. Mix well together, and apply a  little to the lips at night.

German Lip Salve:

Butter of cacao, 1/2 ounce; oil of almonds, 1/4 ounce; melt together with a gentle heat, and add 6 drops essence of lemon.

French Lip Salve:

Mix together 16 ounces lard, 2 ounces white wax, nitre and alum in fine powder, of each, 1/2 ounce; alkanet to color.

Glycerine Lip Salve:

This is prepared by adding 1/6 to 1/8 part of glycerine to any one of the above whilst in the melted state, and stirring the mixture assiduously until it begins to cool.

White Lip Salve:

Take 1/2 pound spermaceti ointment, liquify it by the heat of warm water, and stir in 1/2 drachm neroli or essence de petitgrain as before.

White Lip Salve #2:

  • 1/4 lb Almond oil
  • 1 oz Wax
  • 1 oz Spermaceti
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of almonds
  • 1/4 drachm Otto of geranium

After lip salve is poured into the pots and got cold, a red-hot iron must be held over them for a minute or so, in order that the heat radiated from the irons may melt the surface of the salve and give it an even face.


Peruvian Red Lip Salve:

Take:
  • 1/2 pound spermaceti ointment
  • 3 or 4 drachms alkanet root
Digest, at a gentle heat, until the first has acquired a rich deep red color, then pass it through a coarse strainer. "When the liquid fat has cooled a little, stir in thoroughly 3 drachms balsam of Peru. In a few minutes pour off the clear portion from the dregs (if any), and add 20 to 30 drops oil of cloves. Lastly, before it cools, pour it into the pots or boxes. The product forms the finest and most esteemed Up salve. 2 or 3 drops of essence of ambergris, or of essence royale, improve and vary it.


Rose Lip Salve:

As the above, but using only 1 1/2 drachms balsam of Peru, and replacing the oil of cloves with a few drops of attar of roses, or sufficient to give the mixture a marked odor of roses. Some makers omit the balsam altogether. If uncol-ored, it forms white rose lip salve.

Rose Lip Salve #2:

  • 1/2 lb Almond oil 
  • 2 oz Spermaceti and wax
  • 2 oz Alkanet root
  • 1/4 drachm Otto of roses
Place the wax, sperm, and oil on to the alkanet root in a vessel heated by steam or water-bath; after the materials are melted, they must digest on the alkanet to extract its color for at least four or five hours; finally, strain through fine muslin, then add the perfume just before it cools.


Common Lip Salve:

Is made simply of equal parts of lard and suet, colored with alkanet root, and perfumed with an ounce of bergamot to every pound of salve.


To Make Lip Salve:

Melt in a jar placed in a basin of boiling water a quarter of an ounce each of white wax and spermaceti, flour of benzoin fifteen grains, and half an ounce of the ]oil of almonds. Stir till the mixture is cool. Color red with alkanet root.


Pomade Rosat for the Lips:


Melt together:

  • 2 ounces white wax
  • 4 ounces oil of sweet almonds
  • 3 drachms alkanet


Digest for several hours, strain, and add 12 drops attar of rose ; used for the lips.

Saturday, May 6, 2017

Hoyt's German Cologne

Hoyt's German Cologne


The following formula has been as similar to Hoyt's German Cologne
  • 1 ounce Oil Bergamot 
  • 1 ounce Lemon 
  • 1/4 ounce Oil Neroli  
  • 1/2 ounce Oil Santal Wood 
  • 20 grains Camphor
  • 7 pints Cologne Spirit 
  • 1 pint Rose Water 


Mix and let month then filter. 

Sunday, April 9, 2017

Various Patchouli Formulas

Extract Patchouly 

  • 8 parts Essence Patchouly 
  • 2 parts Essence Rose 
  • 2 parts Essence Rose Geranium 
  • 4 parts Cologne Spirit 

Mix.

Patchouly #2:


  • Sandal Oil 1/2 dr 
  • Bergamot Oil 1/2 dr
  • Geranium Oil 1 dr
  • Civet Tincture 4 dr
  • Musk Tincture 4 1/2 dr
  • Patchouly Oil 5 dr
  • Cassie 2 oz 
  • Jasmine 5 oz 
  • Rose 8 oz 

Patchouli #3:
  • Tincture of musk 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of orris 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of vanilla 2 ounces 
  • Oil of rose 1/2 dram 
  • Oil of sandalwood 20 minims 
  • Oil of patchouli 40 minims 
  • Cologne spirits (188%) 6 ounces 
  • Rose water 2 ounces 
Mix and filter.


Extrait de Patchouly:
  • 1 pint extract of rose
  • 1 pint extract of orange flower
  • 1-1/2 pint deodorized alcohol
  • 6 drams oil of patchouly
  • 1 dram oil of rose
  • 8 oz rose water, triple


Extract of Patchouli Perfume:
  • 1 1/4 ounces attar of patchouli
  • 1/4 ounce attar of rose
  • 1 gallon rectified spirits


Common Essence de Patchouli:

  • 1 1/4 ounces otto of patchouli
  • 1/4 ounce otto of rose
  • 1 gallon rectified spirit

Mix and let stand for a week.



Essence de Poucha Pat:

Essence de Patchoulie. 

Take: 
  • 3 pounds Indian patchouli (leaves or foliaceous tops)
  • 9 pints rectified spirit
Digest for a week in a close vessel, add 1/2 ounce oil of lavender (Mitcham) and promote solution by agitation. Next throw the whole into a still, and further add 1 gallon water and 2 or 3 pounds common salt. Agitate the whole briskly together, lute on the still-head, and distill over (rapidly) 1 gallon. To the distillate add 1/2 fluid ounce finest essence of musk; and after 10 days' repose, bottle it. A very fashionable perfume, particularly for personal use.

Tuesday, April 4, 2017

Satin Bouquet


  • 160 gr oakmoss
  • 40 gr sandalwood oil
  • 35 gr ylang-ylang
  • 20 gr Bulgarian rose oil
  • 10 gr rose oil absolute
  • 10 gr patchouli oil
  • 5 gr costus oil
  • 160 gr artificial jasmine (extra)
  • 100 gr Methyl ionone
  • 35 gr Cinnamic alcohol
  • 35 gr Phenylethyl alcohol
  • 35 gr Vetiveryl acetate
  • 10 gr Styrallyl acetate
  • 35 gr Hydroxycitronellal
  • 35 gr Linalol
  • 10 gr Dianthax base
  • 10 gr Cinnamic aldehyde
  • 20 gr Dimethylhydrocinnamol
  • 100 gr artificial gardenia
  • 10 gr Vanillin
  • 5 gr C-10 aldehyde
  • 25 gr C-11 aldehyde
  • 10 gr Musk ambrette
  • 20 gr Musk ketone

Thursday, March 30, 2017

Various Heliotrope Formulas

Heliotrope #1:
  • Ylang Ylang Oil 1/4 dr 
  • Benzyl Acetate 1 1/4 dr
  • Terpineol 5 dr
  • Heliotropin 5 1/2 dr
  • Musk Tincture 12 dr
  • Vanillin Tincture 12 dr
  • Peru Balsam Tincture 12 dr
  • Rose 3 oz 
  • Tuberose 3 oz
  • Jasmine 7 oz

Heliotrope #2:
  • 5 oz cassie extract
  • 1 oz orris
  • 4 oz orange flower
  • 12 oz jasmine
  • 10 oz vanilla
  • 12 oz tuberose
  • 6 drams esprit de rose
  • 6 drops almond oil

Heliotrope #3:
  • 2 qts extract of rose, made from the pomade
  • 1 qt extract of orange flowers, made from the pomade
  • 4 oz tincture of ambergris
  • 4 oz Heliotropin
  • 1 dram musk xylene, 100%
  • 1 qt alcohol

Heliotrope #4:

  • Tincture of heliotrope (1 to 16) 8 ounces 
  • Tincture of orris 16 ounces 
  • Tincture or rose 8 ounces 
  • Tincture of jas3uin 8 ounces 
  • Tincture of styrax 2 drams 
  • Tincture of vetiver 2 drams 
  • Tincture of coumarin 8 ounces 
  • Oil of bergamot 2 drams 
  • Oil of bitter almonds 8 drops 
Mix and filter if necessary



Extrait d'Heliotrope:
  • Extract of jasmine from pomade 2 qts 
  • Extract of orange flowers 1 pint 
  • Tincture of ambergris 4 oz 
  • Heliotropine 4 oz 
  • Ylang Ylang, Siegert 2 drams 
  • Coumarin 2 drams 
  • Musk xylene 1 dram 
  • Alcohol to make 4 qts 

Extrait  de Heliotrope #2:
  • 1/2 pint Spirituous extract of vanilla
  • 1/4 pint Spirituous extract of French rose pomatum
  • 2 oz Spirituous extract of orange-flower pomatum
  • 1 oz Spirituous extract of ambergris
  •  5 drops Essential oil of almonds


A preparation made in this manner under the name of Extract de Heliotrope is that which is sold in the shops of Paris and London, and is really a very nice perfume, passing well with the public for a genuine extract of heliotrope.


Extrait au Heliotrope:

  • 2 pints Extract of rose
  • 1 pint extract of orange flower
  • 1/2 pint Tincture of vanilla  
  • 2 oz tincture of civet 
  • 2 oz tincture of ambergris 
  • 1 dram Oil of almonds 
  • 4 oz Rose-water, triple  
Heliotrope is not cultivated for its perfume, although very fine. This formula is an imitation, and I believe a very good one.



Eau de Heliotrope:

  • 1/2 Imperial fluid drachm essence of ambergris, coarsely powdered
  • 1/2 ounce avoirdupois vanilla
  • 1/2 pin orange-flower water
  • 1 quart rectified spirit
5 or 6 drops each of oil of bitter almonds and cassia are sometimes added
Digest for a week, and then decant or filter. Used both as a cosmetic and perfume.




Essence of Heliotrope
Spirituous extract of vanilla 1/2 pint, of French rose-pomatum 1/4 pint, of orange-flower, pomatum 2 oz., of ambergris 1 oz.; add 5 drops of the essential oil of almond.


Eau Spiritueuse d'Heliotrope
 Eau Spiritueuse d'Heliotrope. Vanilla 3 drs., double orange-flower water 6 oz., rectified spirit a quart; macerate for 3 days, and distil in a water-bath. It may be coloured with cochineal. But the essence d'heliotrope of some perfumers appears, by the colour, not to have been distilled.

Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Coffee Flowers Extract

Also known as Fleurs du Cafeyer d'Arabie.





  • 1 oz cassie essence
  • 1 oz tuberose essence
  • 1 oz rose spirit
  • fifty grains of freshly roasted coffee (bruised)
  • 2 oz deodorized alcohol


Digest the coffee with the alcohol for two days, filter, adding sufficient alcohol to make the resulting tincture measure two fluid ounces; then add to it the other ingredients.

Coffee flowers give excellent perfume reminiscent of jasmine, cassia and mimosa. The resemblance between name and odor is probably as imaginary here as in the case above. The extract is peculiar, but, save as a novelty, received but little attention.


Friday, June 17, 2016

A Japanese Perfume

  • 1/2 pint Extract of rose triple
  • 1/2 pint Extract of vetiver
  • 1/2 pint Extract of patchouli
  • 1/2 pint Extract of cedar
  • 1/2 pint Extract of sandalwood
  • 1/4 pint Extract of verveine

Japanese Bouquet:
  • 1 pint essence of rose pomade
  • 1/2 pint vetiver
  • 1/2 pint patchouli 
  • 1/4 pint cedar
  • 1/4 pint santal
  • 2 pints vervaine 





Wednesday, May 18, 2016

Buckingham Palace Bouquet Perfume

  • 1 pint extrait de fleur d'orange
  • 1 pint extrait de cassie
  • 1 pint extrait de jasmin
  • 1 pint extrait de rose
  • 1/2 pint extract of orris
  • 1/2 pint extract of ambergris
  • 1/2 drachm otto of neroli
  • 1/2 drachm otto of lavender
  • 1 drachm otto of rose

Monday, May 9, 2016

The Court Nosegay Perfume


  • 1 pint extrait de rose
  • 1 pint extrait de jasmine
  • 1 pint extrait de violette
  • 1 pint esprit de rose triple
  • 1 ounce extract of musk
  • 1 ounce extract of ambergris
  • 1/2 ounce otto of lemon
  • 1/2 ounce otto of bergamot
  • 1 drachm neroli

Tuesday, May 3, 2016

Piesse's Pastils


  • 1/2 lb. Willow charcoal 
  • 6 oz. Benzoic acid
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of thyme
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of caraway
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of rose
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of lavender
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of cloves
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of santal


Prior to mixing, dissolve 3/4 oz. nitre in half a pint of distilled or ordinary rose water; with this solution thoroughly wet the charcoal, and then allow it to dry in a warm place.

When the thus nitrated charcoal is quite dry, pour over it the mixed ottos, and stir in the flowers of benzoin. When well mixed by sifting (the sieve is a better tool for mixing powders than the pestle and mortar), it is finally beaten up in a mortar, with enough mucilage to bind the whole together, and the less that is used the better.

Tuesday, April 26, 2016

Eau de Chypre Perfume

This is an old-fashioned French perfume, presumed to be derived from the Cyperus esculentus by some, and by others to be so named after the Island of Cyprus; the article sold, however, is made thus—

  • 2 pints esprit de rose triple
  • 1 pint extract of musk
  • 1/2 pint extract of ambergris
  • 1/2 pint extract of vanilla
  • 1/2 pint extract of tonka bean
  • 1/2 pint extract of orris


The mixture thus formed is one of the most lasting odors that can be made.

Wednesday, April 6, 2016

Royal Palace Sachet


  • 1 lb dried rose hips 
  • 1/2 lb dried lavender
  • 1/4 lb dried thyme
  • 1/4 lb dried lemon thyme
  • 1/4 lb dried mint
  • 1/4 lb dried marjoram
  • 2 oz ground cloves
  • 2 oz ground allspice
  • 1 drachm musk in grain

Tuesday, March 15, 2016

Egyptian Lotus Extract



Mix together:
  • 2 oz jasmine essence
  • 1 1/2 drams patchouly extract
  • 1/2 oz orange flower spirit
  • 1/2 oz vanilla tincture
  • 1/2 oz civet tincture
  • 2 drams rose essence
  • 2 drams  clove spirit
  • 2 drams benzoin tincture





Thursday, March 10, 2016

Empress Eugenie's Nosegay Perfume

Mix together:


  • 1/4 pint extract of musk
  • 1/4 pint extract of vanilla
  • 1/4 pint extract of tonka bean
  • 1/4 pint extract of neroli
  • 1/2 pint extract of geranium
  • 1/2 pint extract of rose triple
  • 1/2 pint extract of sandalwood

Saturday, February 20, 2016

Royal Hunt Bouquet

Royal Hunt Bouquet #1:
  • 1 pint Esprit de rose triple
  • 1/2 pint tonka bean
  • 1/4 pint extract of neroli 
  • 1/4 pint extract of acacia
  • 1/4 pint extract of orange blossom
  • 1/4 pint extract of musk
  • 1/4 pint extract of orris
  • 2 drachms Otto of citron

Royal Hunt Bouquet #2:
  • Spirit rose 2 ozs 
  • Spirit orange flower 1/2 oz 
  • Essence cassie 1/2 oz 
  • Essence orange flower 1/2 oz 
  • Tincture tonka 1 oz 
  • Tincture musk 1 oz 
  • Tincture orris 1/2 oz 
  • Oil citron 15 mins 
Very similar to new mown hay extract, but more delicate and fleeting.

Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Various Bouquet de Flora Formulas

Bouquet de Flora Perfume:
  • 1 pint Esprit de rose
  • 1 pint Esprit de tuberose
  • 1 pint Esprit de violet
  • 2 oz Otto of bergamot
  • 1 1/2 oz Extract of benzoin
  • 1/2 oz Otto of lemon
  • 1/2 oz Otto of orange

Bouquet de Flora (Nosegay of Flowers):

  • 1 pint Extract of rose 
  • 1 pint Extract of jasmine
  • 1/2 pint Extract of  orange flower
  • 1/2 pint Tincture of orris 
  • 1/4 pint Tincture of civet 
  • 1/4 pint Tincture of ambrette 
  • 2 ounces musk
  • 2 drachms Oil of bergamot 
  • 1 drachm Oil of lavender 
  • 1 drachm Oil of cloves 
  • 1/2 drachm Oil of neroli 
  • 6 ounces Orange-flower water 
This is a very fine combination, and should be popular.--