Thursday, May 18, 2017

Various Pinks (Carnation) Oeillet Formulas

Carnation natural occurs as pomade or occasionally concretes but these are scarce and high priced. The odour base is isoeugenol modified by eugenol, esters of eugenol, and also nerol, heliotropin, terpineol, and hydroxycitronellal with the flowery note brought out by ylang ylang oil.

Top notes: cassie, rose geranium, clove, neroli, pimento, cinnamon, petitgrain
Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, carnation, tuberose, jonquil, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang
Base notes: vanilla, styrax, tolu balsam, musk, benzoin, patchouli, sandalwood, civet, ambergris


Extrait Artificiel d'Oeillet:
isoeugenol 30 gr
essence de roses 3.5 gr
acetate de phenylethyle 1.2 gr
alcool cinnamique 0.4 gr
linalol 4 gr
alcohol phenylethylique 1.5 gr
vanilline 0.7 gr
alcohol at 90%  2 liters



Extrait d'Oeillet:
alcohol at 95% 1.5 liter
girofle anglais 250 gr
cannelle de Chine 10 gr
essence de girofle 10 gr
essence de cannelle 1 gr
essence de Portugal 10 gr
essence de geranium 10 gr
tincture de baume de tolu 10 gr



Carnation Extract #1:
  • Vanillin Tincture 2 oz 
  • Cassie 4 oz
  • Orange Flower 4 oz 
  • Rose 6 oz


Extrait Artificiel d'Oeillet (Imitation Carnation Extract) #2:
  • 28 centiliters rose spirits
  • 14 cubic centiliters orange blossom spirits
  • 14 cubic centiliters acacia spirits
  • 36 grams vanilla spirits
  • 10 drops clove oil

Imitation Carnation Extract #3:
  • 171 centiliters tuberose extract
  • 143 centiliters jonquil extract
  • 14 centiliters styrax extract
  • 14 centiliters tolu extract

Clove Pink:
  • Tincture of jasmine 16 ounces 
  • Tincture of orris 16 ounces 
  • Tincture of musc baur 8 ounces 
  • Tincture of benzoin 1 dram 
  • Oil of rose geranium 1 dram 
  • Oil of cloves 1/2 dram 
  • Oil of neroli Portugal 1 dram 
  • Oil of pimento 10 drops 
  • Oil of patchouli 10 drops 
  • Oil of sandalwood 1 dram 
  • Cologne spirits, (188%) 10 ounces 
  • Orange flower water 2 ounces 

Mix and filter. 


Imitation Essence of Clove Pink
  • 1/2 pint Esprit de rose
  • 1/4 pint esprit de fleur d'orange
  • 1/4 pint esprit de cassie
  • 2 oz Esprit de vanilla 
  • 10 drops Oil of cloves
It is remarkable how very much this mixture resembles the odor of the flower, and the public never doubt its being the "real thing."



Persian Pink:
  • Tincture of orange flowers 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of rose 8 ounces 
  • Tincture of cassie 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
  • Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 2 ounces 
  • Oil of cloves 10 drops 
  • Oil of sandalwood 5 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary.



Pinks:
  • Tincture of rose 10 ounces 
  • Tincture of orange flowers 6 ounces 
  • Tincture of cassie 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
  • Tincture of ambergris 1 dram 
  • Oil of cloves 5 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary.




Extrait d'Oeillet:

  • 1 pint extract of rose
  • 1 pint extract of cassie
  • 1/2 pint tincture of ambrette
  • 1/4 pint tincture of orris
  • 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
  • 2 dram oil of cloves
  • 1 dram coil of cinnamon (true)
  • 1 dram oil of petit grain
  • 1/2 pint alochol
  • 1/2 pint orange flower water, triple

Sweet Pink:

  • Tincture of rose 16 ounces 
  • Tincture of orange flowers 8 ounces 
  • Tincture of cassie 8 ounces 
  • Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
  • Tincture of civet 1/2 ounce 
  • Oil of cloves 10 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary.


Clove Pink: 

  • Oil of cloves 10 drops 
  • Tincture of orris 10 ounces 
  • Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
  • Tincture of ambrette 2 ounces 
  • Cologne spirits (188%) 6 ounces 
  • Orange flower water 5 ounces 
  • Rose water 9 ounces 

Dissolve the oil in the tinctures and cologne spirits add the waters siowiy and filter through taleum at At low temperature.


Gillyflower:

  • 1200,0 Essence of neroli
  • 1200,0 Essence of rose
  • 600,0 Essence of vanilla
  • 25 drops bitter almond oil
  • 600,0 Essence of violet root
  • 600,0 Essence of acacia


Infuse for 14 days.


Clove Pink Bouquet (Saunder's)
  • 12 oz jasmine extract
  • 12 oz orris extract
  • 8 oz musk extrect
  • 1 dra rose otto
  • 2 dr clove otto
  • 1 dr neroli otto
  • 10min pimento otto
  • 20 min patchouli otto
  • 2 dr sandalwood otto
  • 4 pts benzoic acid

CARNATION PINK 
  • Oil of cloves 
  • Cassie extrait 
  • Jasmine extrait 
  • Orange flower extrait 
  • Rose extrait 
  • Essence of civet 
  • Essence of vanilla 
  • Tincture of storax 
  • Spirit of ylang ylang 

ESSENCE OF CLOVE PINK 
  • Rose extrait 
  • Orange flower extrait 
  • Essence of vanilla 
  • Oil of cloves 
Mix and after standing for several days filter 

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