Kao Tsong

• 170 gr oakmoss
• 50 gr jasmine oil absolute
• 100 gr artificial jasmine oil
• 50 gr vetiver oil
• 40 gr sandalwood oil
• 33 gr ylang ylang
• 10 gr rose oil (moroccan)
• 20 gr rose oil (bulgarian)
• 10 gr patchouli oil
• 2 gr costus oil
• 100 gr methyl ionone (violet)
• 25 gr cinnamic alcohol
• 45 gr phenylethyl alcohol
• 30 gr vetiveryl acetate
• 10 gr styrallyl acetate
• 40 gr hydroxycitronellal (lily of the valley)
• 40 gr lilalol
• 10 gr artificial carnation (extra)
• 2 gr amylcinnamic aldehyde
• 20 gr dimethylhydrocinnamyl
• 100 gr artificial gardenia
• 5 gr C-10 aldehyde
• 25 gr C-11 aldehyde
• 5 gr methyl nonyl aldehyde (to 10%)
• 20 gr vanillin
• 10 gr musk ambrette
• 20 gr musk ketone

Cremorne Valley Bouquet

• Tincture of jasmine 10 ounces 
• Tincture of orange flowers 10 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 20 ounces 
• Tincture of violet 10 ounces 
• Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 1 ounce 
• Tincture of ambergris 1 ounce 
• Oil of bergamot 1/2 ounce 
• Oil of hyacinth geraniol 1 dram 

Mix and filter if necessary. 

Various Heliotrope Perfume Formulas

HELIOTROPE TYPE - Natural products occasionally offered but synthetics closely approximate the natural fragrance Heliotropin (piperonal) is the basic odor with flowering adjuvants of hydroxycitronellal, geraniol, methyl acetophenone, and benzyl acetate. 

Melilotus, honeysuckle and Marvel of Peru have an odor of, suggestive of, but distinct from heliotrope. Coumarin, the basis of sweet clover (melilot) and new mown hay compositions, and the honeysuckle note is obtained by of linalol, geraniol, hydroxycitronellal, vanillin acetate, with tuberose essence.

 

Heliotrope #1:

• Ylang Ylang Oil 1/4 dr 
• Benzyl Acetate 1 1/4 dr
• Terpineol 5 dr
• Heliotropin 5 1/2 dr
• Musk Tincture 12 dr
• Vanillin Tincture 12 dr
• Peru Balsam Tincture 12 dr
• Rose 3 oz 
• Tuberose 3 oz
• Jasmine 7 oz

Heliotrope #2:

• 5 oz cassie extract
• 1 oz orris
• 4 oz orange flower
• 12 oz jasmine
• 10 oz vanilla
• 12 oz tuberose
• 6 drams esprit de rose
• 6 drops almond oil

Heliotrope #3:

• 2 qts extract of rose, made from the pomade
• 1 qt extract of orange flowers, made from the pomade
• 4 oz tincture of ambergris
• 4 oz Heliotropin
• 1 dram musk xylene, 100%
• 1 qt alcohol

Heliotrope #4:

• Tincture of heliotrope (1 to 16) 8 ounces 
• Tincture of orris 16 ounces 
• Tincture or rose 8 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmin 8 ounces 
• Tincture of styrax 2 drams 
• Tincture of vetiver 2 drams 
• Tincture of coumarin 8 ounces 
• Oil of bergamot 2 drams 
• Oil of bitter almonds 8 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary

Extrait d'Heliotrope:

• Extract of jasmine from pomade 2 qts 
• Extract of orange flowers 1 pint 
• Tincture of ambergris 4 oz 
• Heliotropine 4 oz 
• Ylang Ylang, Siegert 2 drams 
• Coumarin 2 drams 
• Musk xylene 1 dram 
• Alcohol to make 4 qts 

Extrait  de Heliotrope #2:

• 1/2 pint Spirituous extract of vanilla
• 1/4 pint Spirituous extract of French rose pomatum
• 2 oz Spirituous extract of orange-flower pomatum
• 1 oz Spirituous extract of ambergris
•  5 drops Essential oil of almonds

A preparation made in this manner under the name of Extract de Heliotrope is that which is sold in the shops of Paris and London, and is really a very nice perfume, passing well with the public for a genuine extract of heliotrope.

Extrait au Heliotrope:

• 2 pints Extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1/2 pint Tincture of vanilla  
• 2 oz tincture of civet 
• 2 oz tincture of ambergris 
• 1 dram Oil of almonds 
• 4 oz Rose-water, triple  

Heliotrope is not cultivated for its perfume, although very fine. This formula is an imitation, and I believe a very good one.

Eau de Heliotrope:

• 1/2 Imperial fluid drachm essence of ambergris, coarsely powdered
• 1/2 ounce avoirdupois vanilla
• 1/2 pin orange-flower water
• 1 quart rectified spirit

5 or 6 drops each of oil of bitter almonds and cassia are sometimes added

Digest for a week, and then decant or filter. Used both as a cosmetic and perfume.

Essence of Heliotrope
Spirituous extract of vanilla 1/2 pint, of French rose-pomatum 1/4 pint, of orange-flower, pomatum 2 oz., of ambergris 1 oz.; add 5 drops of the essential oil of almond.


Eau Spiritueuse d'Heliotrope
 Eau Spiritueuse d'Heliotrope. Vanilla 3 drs., double orange-flower water 6 oz., rectified spirit a quart; macerate for 3 days, and distil in a water-bath. It may be coloured with cochineal. But the essence d'heliotrope of some perfumers appears, by the colour, not to have been distilled.


Heliotrope:

• heliotropin
• bergamot
• synthetic neroli
• orris
• Peru balsam
• bitter almond
• vanillin

Eastern Essence

• 3 oz patchouly extract
• 1 oz verbena extract

Mix together.

Coffee Flowers Extract

Also known as Fleurs du Cafeyer d'Arabie.

• 1 oz cassie essence
• 1 oz tuberose essence
• 1 oz rose spirit
• fifty grains of freshly roasted coffee (bruised)
• 2 oz deodorized alcohol

Digest the coffee with the alcohol for two days, filter, adding sufficient alcohol to make the resulting tincture measure two fluid ounces; then add to it the other ingredients.

Coffee flowers give excellent perfume reminiscent of jasmine, cassia and mimosa. The resemblance between name and odor is probably as imaginary here as in the case above. The extract is peculiar, but, save as a novelty, received but little attention.

Heliotrope for Perfuming Face Powder c1894

We repeat our to your query, that heliotrope as odor, is generally imparted to face powder from the various ingredients in preparing it. However, if you prepared your powder, we presume heliotrope odor may be given it by carefully working in a sufficient amount one of the following perfumes:

• 1 1/2 drams Vanilla 
• 10 drops Oil orange flower 
• 5 drops Oil cherry laurel
• 3/4 grains Musk 
• 6 drams Benzoin 
• 1 pint Alcohol 
• 1 oz Extract orange flower 
• 1 quart Extract white rose 
• 1 oz Extract benzoin 
• 1/2 pint Extract Vanilla 
• 1 oz Extract civet 
• 3 minims Oil bitter almonds 

Oxford and Cambridge Bouquet Perfume

• 11 minims Oil of lemon 
• 1 dram Oil of bergamot 
• 1 oz Tincture of storax 
• 3 oz Essence of musk 
• 3 oz Essence of patchouli 
• 4 oz Spirit of geranium 
• 5 oz Essence of vanilla 
• 5 oz Spirit of santal 
• 10 oz Spirit of rose  
• 10 oz Cassie extrait  
• 10 oz Jasmine extrait  
• 10 oz Rose extrait 
• 10 oz Tuberose extrait 
• 1 Imperial pint Violet extrait  

Mix. 

Royal Osbourne Bouquet c1855 and Osborne Bouquet by Rimmel c1856

Royal Osbourne Bouquet c1855

• 1/2 pint Extract of orris 
• 1/4 pint Extract of vetiver 
• 1 pint Extract of sandalwood 
• 1/2 pint Extract of rose 

Osborne Bouquet by Rimmel c1856

• 1 minim Otto of rose 
• 1 oz Essence of musk
• 2 oz Essence of ambergris 
• 3 oz Spirit of vetiver
• 5 oz Spirit of sandalwood 
• 7 oz Jasmine extrait 
• 10 oz Tincture of orris
• 10 oz Violet extrait  
• 15 oz Cassie extrait

Mix.

Osborne Bouquet 

• Otto of rose 
• Essence of musk 
• Essence of ambergris 
• Spirit of vetivert 
• Spirit of santal 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Tincture of orris 
• Violet extrait 
• Cassie extrait

Various Solid Perfume Formulas

 Frozen or Solid Perfumes with Parafinne

The solid perfumes simply consist of hard paraffine which when melted is perfumed with a corresponding quantity of any desired perfume essence and poured into moulds A few mixtures for such perfumes are here given:

In the first place, the solid perfume is merely perfumed hard paraffine. The hard paraffine is melted and perfumed at as low a temperature as possible, and for a mould, use the lids of 2 dram chip boxes.

White Rose Solid Perfume:

• 1/2 drm oil of geranium
• 1/2 drm oil of bergamot
• 5 minims of patchouli

From 1 to 5 drops to each block may be used, according to the moderation or extravagance of the manufacturer.


White rose solid perfume:

• 10 drams rose geranium oil
• 10 drams bergamot oil
• 1/2 dram patchouli oil
• 1/2 dram oil of cloves

Lavender Solid Perfume:

• 2 oz oil of lavender
• 1 oz essence of bergamot
• 5 minims oil of cassia
• 40 minims oil of geranium
• 5 minims oil of orange

Mix and perfume the wax as before. 

Bouquet Solid Perfume:

• 18 minims oil of coriander
• 2 drams oil of cloves
• 1 dram oil of nutmeg
• 3 drams oil of lavender 
• 1 dram oil of sandalwood
• 1 oz oil of bergamot
• 1/2 dram otto of rose
• 1/2 dram oil of geranium
• 10 minims oil of orange

Mix and perfume the wax as before.

Cologne Solid Perfume:

• 1 oz essence of bergamot
• 1 oz essence of lemon
• 1/2 oz oil of citronella
• 1/2 oz oil of neroli
• 80 minims of rosemary
• 10 minims oil of geranium

Mix.

Ess bouquet solid perfume:

• 1 dram coriander oil 
• 7 dram oil of cloves
• 3.5 dram nutmeg oil 
• 10 drams lavender oil 
• 3.5 dram sandal wood oil 
• 30 drams bergamot oil 
• 2 drams rose oil 
• 2 drams rose geranium oil 
• 0.6 dram neroli oil 

Cologne du Roi

The following formula has been published by one of the Messrs. Farina, the originators of cologne:


Take:

• 1/4 oz Benzoin
• 1/4 oz Oil or Rosemary
• 1/2 oz Oil of Lavender 
• 9 pints Strong Alcohol

 Mix, and agitate thoroughly together, and then add successively:

• 1 oz Oil of Neroli (petits grains)
• 1 oz Oil of Lemon
• 2 oz Oil of sweet Orange (Aurantii Dulcis)
• 2 oz Oil of Limettae (Lime)
• 2 oz Oil of Bergamot,
• 2 oz Tinct. Flor. Geranii Rose (Flowers of Rose Geranium) 

Let stand for several weeks a sufficient quantity to impart the desired fragrance. Macerate for several weeks, and fill into flasks.

A.D. Circ., VIII 85. Am. Jour. Pharm., 1864 p 375. I have reduced weights and measures above.

Alexandra Bouquet Perfume

• Bergamot oil 3-1/2 drs 
• Rose geranium oil 1/2 dr 
• Rose oil 1/2 dr 
• Cassia oil 15 ml 
• Spirit 1 pt 

Esprit de Jasmine Perfume

• Jasmine extrait 1 pt 
• Ambergris essence dram 
• Neroli oil 8 ml
• Spirit 10 ozs 

Mix. 

Various Heliotrope Perfumes

Heliotrope #1:

• Heliotropin 60 parts 
• Coumarin 3 parts 
• Peru balsam 5 parts 
• Vanillin 2 parts 
• Terpineol 5 parts 
• Alcohol deodorized 10,000 parts 
• Water distilled 6,300 parts 

Mix the water and alcohol and dissolve the essences in the mixture.



Heliotrope #2:

• 120,0 Essence of Vanilla
• 60,0 Essence of Rose
• 48,0 Essence of Neroli
• 4,0 Essence of Amber
• 5 drops Bitter Almond Oil

Mixed, infused for 7 days, filter.


Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales):

• 13.5 oz cassie extract
• 5 oz tincture of ambergris
• 2.5 oz jasmine extract
• 5 oz tincture of musk
• 5 pts rose extract
• 2.5 pints violet extract
• 13.5 oz verbena extract
• 2.5 pints rose essence
• 4 oz "Heliotropine"
• 1 dram Musk xylene, 100%

Marquez Heliotrope Extract:

• Vanilla 6 grams

Triturate and put in 500 grams of alcohol at 85 degrees. Add 90 grams of orange blossom water and leave to macerate for two or three days. Color with cochineal tincture and filter.

Marechale Rose Formulas

Marechal Niel Rose:

In the genus of roses outside of the hundred leaved or rose the Marechal Niel rose  (Rosa Noisetteana Red) also called Noisette rose, and often erroneously tea, is especially conspicuous. Its fine piquant odor delights all lovers of precious perfumes. In order to reproduce the fine scent of this flower artificially at periods when it cannot be had without much expenditure the following recipes will be found useful:

Marechale Rose #1:

• Infusion rose 1,000 parts 
• Genuine rose oil 10 parts 
• Infusion Tolu balsam 150 parts 
• Infusion genuine musk I 40 parts 
• Neroli oil parts 
• Clove oil 2 parts 
• Infusion tubereuse 1,000 parts 
• Vanillin 1 part 
• Coumarin 0.5 parts 

Marechale Rose #2:

• Triple rose essence 50 grams 
• Simple rose essence 60 grams 
• Neroli essence 30 grams
• Civet essence 20 grams
• Iris essence 30 grams
• Tonka beans essence 20 grams 
• Rose oil 5 drops 
• Jasmine essence 60 grams
• Violet essence 50 grams
• Cassia essence 50 grams
• Vanilla essence 45 grams
• Clove oil 20 drops 
• Bergamot oil 10 drops 
• Rose geranium oil 20 drops       

Marechale Bouquet:

• Clove oil 10 ml 
• Sandalwood oil 10 ml 
• Musk essence 1 oz 
• Ambergris essence 1 oz 
• Neroli spirit 2 ozs 
• Tonka tincture 2 ozs 
• Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
• Orris tincture 2 ozs 
• Vetiver spirit 2 ozs 
• Rose spirit 4 ozs 
• Orange flower extrait 4 ozs 

Bouquet du Marechale:

• 1 pint Esprit de rose triple
• 1 pint Extrait de fleur d'orange
• 1/2 pint Extrait de vetiver 
• 1/2 pint Extrait de vanilla
• 1/2 pint Extrait de orris
• 1/2 pint Extrait de tonka bean
• 1/2 pint Esprit de neroli
• 1/4 pint Extract of musk
• 1/4 pint Extract of ambergris
• 1/2 drachm Otto of cloves
• 1/2 drachm Otto of sandalwood

Bouquet de Marechale:

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1 pint tincture of vetiver
• 1/4 pint tincture of Tonquin
• 1/4 pint tincture of orris
• 1 dram oil of neroli
• 1/2 dram oil of vetiver
• 4 oz rose water, triple

Bouquet a la Marechale:

• Tincture of ambergris 1/2 pint 
• Tincture of musk 1/2 pint 
• Extract of neroli 1 pint 
• Extract of orange flower 1 qt 
• Tincture of tonka 1 pint 
• Tincture of vanilla 1 pint 
• Tincture of orris root 1 pint 
• Essence of vetiver 1 pint 
• Essence of rose triple 1 qt 
• Oil of clove 75 grains 
• Oil of santal 75 grains 

Eau de Marechale

• Spirit of wine 1 1/2 pint
• Spirit of jessamine 1 oz
• Essence of bergamot 1/4 oz.
• Essence of violets 1 oz

Eau de Marechale #2:

• 1 ounce essence of violets
• 1/4 ounce oil of bergamot
• 1/4 ounce oil of cloves
• 1/2 pint orange-flower water
• 1 pint rectified spirit

Mix. An agreeable and favorite perfume.

Midland Counties Bouquet Perfume

• Jasmine extrait 4 ozs 
• Rose otto 1-1/2 drs 
• Bergamot oil 4 drs 
• Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
• Musk essence 2 ozs 
• Violet extrait 2 ozs 
• Rectified spirit 16 ozs 

Mix all but the spirit and after standing fourteen days add the spirit and filter. 

Maids of Honor Bouquet Perfume

• Clove oil 1-1/2 drs 
• Nutmeg oil 1-1/2 drs 
• Sandalwood oil 2 drs 
• Lavender oil 1/2 oz 
• Rose oil 1 dr 
• Ylang ylang oil 1/2 dr 
• Tonka bean tinct 1 oz 
• Musk essence 1-1/2 ozs 
• Bergamot oil 1-1/2 ozs 
• Millefleurs 2 ozs 
• Verbena spirit 3 ozs 
• Spirit 4-1/2 pts 

Mix. 

Magnolia Blossom Perfume

• Lemon oil 5 ml 
• Essential almond oil 10 ml 
• Orange flower extrait 3-1/2 ozs 
• Rose extrait 7 ozs 
• Spikenard extrait 14 drs 
• Violet extrait 14 drs 

Mix set aside for several days and filter. 

Various Ylang Ylang Formulas

Ylang Ylang # 1.

•  Ylang ylang oil 10 ml
•  Otto rose 2 ml 
• Neroli oil 10 ml 
• Musk essence 1/2 oz 
• Jasmine extrait 2 ozs 
• Orange flower water 2 drs 

Mix.

Ylang Ylang #2.

• Neroli oil 6 ml 
• Lemon oil 6 ml 
• Rose oil 15 ml 
• Ylang ylang oil 50 ml 
• Musk essence dr 
• Spirit 2 pts 

Mix.


Ylang Ylang #3.

• Niobe Oil 1/16 dr
• Musk 1/16 dr
• Benzaldehyde 1/16 dr
• Cananga Oil 3/16 dr
• Linalyl Acetate 1 1/4 dr
• Terpineol 1 1/2 dr
• Ylang Ylang Oil 1 5/8 dr
• Benzoin Tincture 2 1/2 dr
• Cassie 9 dr
• Jonquil 3 oz
• Orris Tincture 3 1/2 oz
• Tuberose 3 1/2 oz
• Jasmine 5 oz

Various Cherry Blossom Formulas

Cherry Blossom #1.

• White heliotrope essence 6 ozs 
• Vanilla essence 1 dr 

Mix.

Cherry Blossom #2.

• Peach blossom essence 12 ozs 
• Violet extrait 2 ozs 
• Mirbane essence 2 ozs 

Mix.


Cherry Blossom Extract #3:

• Extract jasmine 3 pts 
• Extract tuberose 1 1/2 pts 
• Extract cassia i8ozs 
• Extract rose 1 2 ozs 
• Essence rose 12 ozs 
• Tincture coumarin 6 ozs 
• Tincture civet 6 ozs 
• Oil bergamot 1 oz 
• Oil rose geranium 1 oz 
• Oil neroli 1 dr 
• Oil rose synthetic 1 dr 
• Oil cardamon 1 dr 

Cherry Blossom Extract #4:

• Ambepine 3 to 10 drops 
• Anethol 1 drop 
• Oil bitter almonds 15 drops 
• Oil fennel 15 drops 
• Oil bergamot 15 drops 
• Oil neroli 75 drops 
• Acetic ether 45 drops 
• Vanillin 30 grs 
• Coumarin 5 grs 
• Tincture musk 6 drs 
• Tincture Siam benzoin 2 1/2 ozs 
• Tincture stronger orris 8 ozs 
• Essence rose (3d washing) 15 ozs 
• Alcohol 4 ozs 

Cherry Blossom #5:

• White heliotrope essence 6 ozs 
• Vanilla essence 1 dr 

Cherry Blossom #6:

• Peach blossom essence 12 ozs 
• Violet extract 2 ozs 
• Mirbane essence 2 ozs 

Cherry Blossom Perfume #7:

• Essence of peach blossom 840 
• Essence of violet 140 
• Essence of bitter almonds (1 to 9) 20 

Buckingham Bouquet Perfume

• Lavender oil 10ml
• Neroli oil 10 ml 
• Rose oil 20 ml 
• Cassia extrait 8 ozs 
• Jasmine extrait 8 ozs 
• Orange flower extrait 8 ozs 
• Rose extrait 8 ozs 
• Ambergris essence 4 ozs 
• Orris tincture 4 ozs 

Mix.