Oxford and Cambridge Bouquet Perfume

• 11 minims Oil of lemon 
• 1 dram Oil of bergamot 
• 1 oz Tincture of storax 
• 3 oz Essence of musk 
• 3 oz Essence of patchouli 
• 4 oz Spirit of geranium 
• 5 oz Essence of vanilla 
• 5 oz Spirit of santal 
• 10 oz Spirit of rose  
• 10 oz Cassie extrait  
• 10 oz Jasmine extrait  
• 10 oz Rose extrait 
• 10 oz Tuberose extrait 
• 1 Imperial pint Violet extrait  

Mix. 

Royal Osbourne Bouquet c1855 and Osborne Bouquet by Rimmel c1856

Royal Osbourne Bouquet c1855

• 1/2 pint Extract of orris 
• 1/4 pint Extract of vetiver 
• 1 pint Extract of sandalwood 
• 1/2 pint Extract of rose 

Osborne Bouquet by Rimmel c1856

• 1 minim Otto of rose 
• 1 oz Essence of musk
• 2 oz Essence of ambergris 
• 3 oz Spirit of vetiver
• 5 oz Spirit of sandalwood 
• 7 oz Jasmine extrait 
• 10 oz Tincture of orris
• 10 oz Violet extrait  
• 15 oz Cassie extrait

Mix.

Osborne Bouquet 

• Otto of rose 
• Essence of musk 
• Essence of ambergris 
• Spirit of vetivert 
• Spirit of santal 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Tincture of orris 
• Violet extrait 
• Cassie extrait

Various Eau de Cologne Recipes c1900

All recipes taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900. Most of them are earlier formulas that the journal culled from old books.


Superior Eau de Cologne c1900

• 3,000 ozs Spirit 
• 10 oz Neroli oil bigarade 
• 5 oz Rosemary oil  
• 15 oz Lemon oil 
• 5 oz Bergamot oil  
• 15 oz Pomegranate skin oil 

Princes Eau de Cologne 

• 3,000 ozs Spirit 
• 3 oz Rosemary oil 
• 10 oz Mitcham lavender oil 
• 50 oz Bergamot oil
• 50 oz Lemon oil
• 10 oz Bigarade neroli oil

Eau de Cologne #1. 

• 3,000 ozs Spirit 
• 6 oz Petit-grain oil 
• 2 oz Bigarade neroli oil
• 2 oz Lavender oil
• 5 oz Rosemary oil
• 12 oz Bergamot oil
• 12 oz Lemon oil
• 2 oz Geranium oil

Eau de Cologne #2.

• Spirit 3,000 ozs 
• 30 oz Bergamot oil  
• 30 oz Lemon oil 
•  2 oz Lavender oil
• 10 oz Petit grain oil 
• 5 oz White Thyme oil 
• 2 1/2 oz Bigarade Neroli oil 

Eau de Cologne with Artificial Perfumes 

• 3,000 oz Spirit 
• 15 oz Mitcham Lavender oil 
• 12 oz Schimmel's Neroli 
• 22 oz Heine's Orange Blossom 
• 5 oz Geranium oil 
• 30 oz Lemon oil 
• 15 oz Bergamot oil 

Blumen Eau 

• 3,000 oz Basis Spirit
• 40 oz Bergamot oil 
• 30 oz Lemon oil 
• 10 oz Schimmel's Neroli 
• 5 oz Lavender oil 
• 2 oz Petit grain oil
• 5 oz White thyme oil 

To every 1,000 ozs of this add the ingredients the several varieties, A - F inclusive as below:



A. Rose Water 

• Rosewood oil 10 oz 
• Rose geranium oil 10 oz 
• Heine's Pose blossom 2 oz 

B. Elder flower 

• Terpinoel 25 ozs 
• Schimmel's Jasmine 8 oz 

C. Lily of the Valley 

• Linaloe oil 20 ozs 
• Schimmel's Jasmine 8 oz 
• Lily Blossom oil Heiko to 1 oz 

D. Mignonette 

• Schimmel's Mignonette Geranium 10 oz 
• Mignonette oil, Heiko 2 oz 

E. Vinegar especially for southern climates export 

• Acetic acid 30 oz 
• Acetic ether 20 oz 
• Water 100 oz 

F. Ice Water Menthol 

• 20 ozs or according to requirements.

A cheap form of Eau de Cologne may be made the following recipe:

After standing a month it be mixed with china clay and white of egg and filtered

• 90 per cent spirit 1,000 ozs 
• Bergamot oil 6 oz 
• Lemon oil 15 oz 
• Rosemary oil 1 oz 
• Lavender oil 2 1/2 oz 
• Water 1,000 oz 

Eau de Cologne (La Deuxieme Qualite)
6 gallons Spirit (from corn)
2 oz Otto of orange peel
2 oz Otto of lemon peel
2 oz Otto of neroli, Petitgain
2 oz Otto of neroli, Petale
2 oz Otto of rosemary
2 oz Otto of bergamot peel
Mix with agitation; then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly quiet, before bottling.

A great many forms for the manufacture of Eau de Cologne have been published, the authors of some of the recipes evidently having no knowledge, in a practical sense, of what they were putting by theory on paper; other venturers, to show their lore, have searched out all the aromatics of Lindley's Botany, and would persuade us to use absinthe, hyssop, anise, juniper, marjoram, caraway, fennel, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet, angelica, cloves, lavender, camphor, balm, peppermint, galanga, lemon thyme,etc



Durokereau's Eau de Cologne
To 7 quarts French tasteless alcohol, add:

• 11 drachms essence of Portugal
• 13 drachms essence of bergamot
• 1 ounce essence of lemon
• 10 drachms essence of neroli
• 1 ounce essence of rosemary
• 1 ounce essence of lavender
• 14 drachms rose water
• 13 drachms jasmin water
• 15 drachms orange-flower water

Mix the whole together, let it stand 24 hours, and distill over a water-bath.



Piesse's Best Quality Cologne
Mix with agitation:

• 3 ounces attar of neroli petals;
• 1 ounce attar of neroli bigarade
• 2 ounces attar of rosemary
• 5 ounces attar of orange zest
• 5 ounces attar of citron zest
• 2 ounces attar of bergamot
•  6 gallons 95 per cent, grape spirit

Let it stand perfectly quiet for a few days. Although very fine eau de Cologne is often made by merely mixing the ingredients, it is better first to mix all the citrine attars with spirit, then distill the mixture, and afterwards add the rosemary and nerolies. This method is adopted by the most popular house in Cologne.


Goufife's Eau de Cologne

• 1/2 ounce each essence of lemon
• 1/2 ounce each essence of  bergamot
• 1/2 ounce each essence of and citron
• 4 ounce essence of rosemary
• 1/8 ounce essence of neroli

 Infuse for 8 days in 1 quart 95 per cent, alcohol. Filter, and bottle for use.


Cologne Essence

Oil of bergamot 2 drs., essence of lemon 1/2 dr., essence of cedrat 1/2 dr., true oil of rosemary 15 drops, rectified spirit (or spirit of balm) 1 1/2 oz.

Essence of Cologne; Cologne-Essence ; Concentrated Eau de Cologne. 

This is prepared from the same odorous ingredients as " Eau de Cologne," but taking 7 or 8 times the quantity, and using alcohol or the strongest rectified spirit, without which a permanent solution of the whole of them cannot be formed. Used as a condensed and convenient substitute for ordinary "Eau de Cologne " by travelers, being less bulky. It is also kept in stock by druggists and perfumers, to enable them to prepare that article extemporaneously, by simply diluting it with 8 times its bulk of spirit of the appropriate strength.

Ordinary Cologne

Take 10 qts alcohol at 85° and mix with the following:

• 2 oz essence of lemon
• 10 drams essence of rosemary
• 5 drams essence of lavender
• 1 1/4 drams essence of neroli
• 1 1/4 drams tincture of benzoin
• 1/2 dram essence of thyme
• 1/2 dram essence of clove
• 1/4 dram essence of peppermint
• 2 lbs. rosewater

All Flower Water c1779

Source: The Toilet of Flora. c1779

Pour into a large vessel:

• 5 quarts of strong Spirit of Wine, and infuse in it the following Flowers, as they come in season: 

• 1/4 pound Violets
• 1/4 pound Hyacinths
• 1/4 pound Wall Flowers 
• 2 ounces single Jonquils
• 2 ounces double Jonquils
• 1/4 pound of Lilies of the Valley 
• 1/4 pound Spanish Jasmine 
• 1/2 ounce of Rosemary Flowers 
• 1 ounce of Elder Flowers 
• 2 ounces of Wild Roses, bruised
• 2 ounces of Damask, bruised
• 2 ounces of White Roses, bruised; 
• 3 ounces of Orange Flowers 
• 1/4 pound of Clove-July-flowers,
• 1/4 pound Syringo Blossoms (seringa = mock orange blossom) 
• 1/4 pound Tuberoses
• 1/4 pound Tops of Mint in Flower
• 30 drops of Quintessence of Musk-seed

The latter, however, need not be added till the time of distillation, which must not be till three days after the last Flowers have been in- fused. Perform the operation in a water bath, and having carefully luted the head and receiver, which mutt be placed in a tub of cold water, to preserve the scent, draw off about three quarts and a pint with a moderate fire, then change the receiver, fix on another, and draw off another pint, which, though of an inferior quality, is well worth preserving.

Spring Nosegay Perfume

A Curious Water, known by the name of Spring Nosegay. Take:

• 6 ounces of Hyacinths 
• 1/2 pound of picked Violets
• 1/4 pound of Wall Flowers 
• 1/4 pound Jonquils 
• 1 ounce of Florentine Orris, bruised 
• 1/2 ounce of Mace, grossly powdered
• 2 ounces of Quintessence of Orange

Put the whole (the Jonquils, Wall Flowers, and Lilies of the Valley excepted) around the sixth of March into a glass body, with a gallon of strong Spirit of Wine; bruise the Hyacinths, Violets, Orris, and Mace; and towards the end of April, add the Jonquils, when in their perfection, that is to say, when full blown.

A few days after, put in the Wall Flowers, the Petals only; then add the Lilies of the Valley, carefully picked, and shake all the ingredients well. Eight days after having put in this last Flower, empty the infusion into an alembic, lute on a head and receiver, which mull: be placed in cold water, and distill in a water bath, with a gentle fire. From the above quantity three quarts of excellent Spirit may be drawn off, that justly deserves the appellation of the Spring Nosegay.

Spring Nosegay #2:

• Musk Tincture 10 dr 
• Ambergris Tincture 14 dr
• Cassie 2 1/2 oz 
• Rose 2 1/2 oz
• Jasmine 2 1/2 oz
• Tuberose 2 1/2 oz
• Orange 4 1/2 oz

Spring Nosegay #3:

• 1 qt cassie extract 
• 4 oz "Viozone" 
• 1 pt orris tincture
• 1 qt jasmine extract
• 1 qt orange blossom extract
• 1 oz "Floressence Mimosa"
• 1 dram Musk xylene, 100%