Kao Tsong

• 170 gr oakmoss
• 50 gr jasmine oil absolute
• 100 gr artificial jasmine oil
• 50 gr vetiver oil
• 40 gr sandalwood oil
• 33 gr ylang ylang
• 10 gr rose oil (moroccan)
• 20 gr rose oil (bulgarian)
• 10 gr patchouli oil
• 2 gr costus oil
• 100 gr methyl ionone (violet)
• 25 gr cinnamic alcohol
• 45 gr phenylethyl alcohol
• 30 gr vetiveryl acetate
• 10 gr styrallyl acetate
• 40 gr hydroxycitronellal (lily of the valley)
• 40 gr lilalol
• 10 gr artificial carnation (extra)
• 2 gr amylcinnamic aldehyde
• 20 gr dimethylhydrocinnamyl
• 100 gr artificial gardenia
• 5 gr C-10 aldehyde
• 25 gr C-11 aldehyde
• 5 gr methyl nonyl aldehyde (to 10%)
• 20 gr vanillin
• 10 gr musk ambrette
• 20 gr musk ketone

Oxford and Cambridge Bouquet Perfume

• 11 minims Oil of lemon 
• 1 dram Oil of bergamot 
• 1 oz Tincture of storax 
• 3 oz Essence of musk 
• 3 oz Essence of patchouli 
• 4 oz Spirit of geranium 
• 5 oz Essence of vanilla 
• 5 oz Spirit of santal 
• 10 oz Spirit of rose  
• 10 oz Cassie extrait  
• 10 oz Jasmine extrait  
• 10 oz Rose extrait 
• 10 oz Tuberose extrait 
• 1 Imperial pint Violet extrait  

Mix. 

Royal Osbourne Bouquet c1855 and Osborne Bouquet by Rimmel c1856

Royal Osbourne Bouquet c1855

• 1/2 pint Extract of orris 
• 1/4 pint Extract of vetiver 
• 1 pint Extract of sandalwood 
• 1/2 pint Extract of rose 

Osborne Bouquet by Rimmel c1856

• 1 minim Otto of rose 
• 1 oz Essence of musk
• 2 oz Essence of ambergris 
• 3 oz Spirit of vetiver
• 5 oz Spirit of sandalwood 
• 7 oz Jasmine extrait 
• 10 oz Tincture of orris
• 10 oz Violet extrait  
• 15 oz Cassie extrait

Mix.

Osborne Bouquet 

• Otto of rose 
• Essence of musk 
• Essence of ambergris 
• Spirit of vetivert 
• Spirit of santal 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Tincture of orris 
• Violet extrait 
• Cassie extrait

Various Solid Perfume Formulas

 Frozen or Solid Perfumes with Parafinne

The solid perfumes simply consist of hard paraffine which when melted is perfumed with a corresponding quantity of any desired perfume essence and poured into moulds A few mixtures for such perfumes are here given:

In the first place, the solid perfume is merely perfumed hard paraffine. The hard paraffine is melted and perfumed at as low a temperature as possible, and for a mould, use the lids of 2 dram chip boxes.

White Rose Solid Perfume:

• 1/2 drm oil of geranium
• 1/2 drm oil of bergamot
• 5 minims of patchouli

From 1 to 5 drops to each block may be used, according to the moderation or extravagance of the manufacturer.


White rose solid perfume:

• 10 drams rose geranium oil
• 10 drams bergamot oil
• 1/2 dram patchouli oil
• 1/2 dram oil of cloves

Lavender Solid Perfume:

• 2 oz oil of lavender
• 1 oz essence of bergamot
• 5 minims oil of cassia
• 40 minims oil of geranium
• 5 minims oil of orange

Mix and perfume the wax as before. 

Bouquet Solid Perfume:

• 18 minims oil of coriander
• 2 drams oil of cloves
• 1 dram oil of nutmeg
• 3 drams oil of lavender 
• 1 dram oil of sandalwood
• 1 oz oil of bergamot
• 1/2 dram otto of rose
• 1/2 dram oil of geranium
• 10 minims oil of orange

Mix and perfume the wax as before.

Cologne Solid Perfume:

• 1 oz essence of bergamot
• 1 oz essence of lemon
• 1/2 oz oil of citronella
• 1/2 oz oil of neroli
• 80 minims of rosemary
• 10 minims oil of geranium

Mix.

Ess bouquet solid perfume:

• 1 dram coriander oil 
• 7 dram oil of cloves
• 3.5 dram nutmeg oil 
• 10 drams lavender oil 
• 3.5 dram sandal wood oil 
• 30 drams bergamot oil 
• 2 drams rose oil 
• 2 drams rose geranium oil 
• 0.6 dram neroli oil 

Alexandra Bouquet Perfume

• Bergamot oil 3-1/2 drs 
• Rose geranium oil 1/2 dr 
• Rose oil 1/2 dr 
• Cassia oil 15 ml 
• Spirit 1 pt 

Esprit de Jasmine Perfume

• Jasmine extrait 1 pt 
• Ambergris essence dram 
• Neroli oil 8 ml
• Spirit 10 ozs 

Mix. 

Various Heliotrope Perfumes

Heliotrope #1:

• Heliotropin 60 parts 
• Coumarin 3 parts 
• Peru balsam 5 parts 
• Vanillin 2 parts 
• Terpineol 5 parts 
• Alcohol deodorized 10,000 parts 
• Water distilled 6,300 parts 

Mix the water and alcohol and dissolve the essences in the mixture.



Heliotrope #2:

• 120,0 Essence of Vanilla
• 60,0 Essence of Rose
• 48,0 Essence of Neroli
• 4,0 Essence of Amber
• 5 drops Bitter Almond Oil

Mixed, infused for 7 days, filter.


Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales):

• 13.5 oz cassie extract
• 5 oz tincture of ambergris
• 2.5 oz jasmine extract
• 5 oz tincture of musk
• 5 pts rose extract
• 2.5 pints violet extract
• 13.5 oz verbena extract
• 2.5 pints rose essence
• 4 oz "Heliotropine"
• 1 dram Musk xylene, 100%

Marquez Heliotrope Extract:

• Vanilla 6 grams

Triturate and put in 500 grams of alcohol at 85 degrees. Add 90 grams of orange blossom water and leave to macerate for two or three days. Color with cochineal tincture and filter.

Marechale Rose Formulas

Marechal Niel Rose:

In the genus of roses outside of the hundred leaved or rose the Marechal Niel rose  (Rosa Noisetteana Red) also called Noisette rose, and often erroneously tea, is especially conspicuous. Its fine piquant odor delights all lovers of precious perfumes. In order to reproduce the fine scent of this flower artificially at periods when it cannot be had without much expenditure the following recipes will be found useful:

Top notes: lemon, thyme, rose, neroli, rose geranium, cassie

Middle notes: orange blossom, ylang ylang, clove, rose, orris, tuberose, jasmine, violet

Base notes: sandalwood, ambergris, musk, civet, styrax, vetiver, vanilla, tolu balsam, tonka bean

Infusion a la Marechale, Composee:

extrait de fleurs d'oranger 6 liters

extrait de roses 1.5 liters

extrait de jasmin 4 liters

extrait de tuberose 3 liters

extrait de cassie 1.5 liters

poudre a la marechale 1.900 kilograms

Autre Infusion a la Marechale, composee:

extrait de fleurs d'oranger 3 liters

extrait de roses 2.5 liters

extrait de jasmin 2 liters

extrait de tuberose 1.5 liters

extrait de cassie 1.5 liters

poudre a la marechale 1 kilograms

BOUQUET A LA MARECHALE -

• spirit of roses, triple 0.56 liter
• orange blossom extract 0.56 liter
• vetiver extract 0.28 liter of each.
• vanilla extract 0.28 liter of each.
• neroli extract 0.28 liter of each.
• musk extract 0.14 liter of each.
• ambergris extract 0.14 liter of each.
• clove essence 0.88 gr of each
• sandalwood essence 0.88 gram of each.

This bouquet is part of the composition of the following:

EAU DE MOUSSELINE -

• Bouquet a la Marechale 0.56 liter
• cassie extract 0.28 liter of each.
• jasmine extract 0.28 liter of each.
• tuberose extract 0.28 liter of each.
• rose extract (four ointment) 0.28 liter of each.
• sandalwood essence 3.54 gr.

Marechale Rose #1:

• Infusion rose 1,000 parts 
• Genuine rose oil 10 parts 
• Infusion Tolu balsam 150 parts 
• Infusion genuine musk I 40 parts 
• Neroli oil parts 
• Clove oil 2 parts 
• Infusion tubereuse 1,000 parts 
• Vanillin 1 part 
• Coumarin 0.5 parts 

Marechale Rose #2:

• Triple rose essence 50 grams 
• Simple rose essence 60 grams 
• Neroli essence 30 grams
• Civet essence 20 grams
• Iris essence 30 grams
• Tonka beans essence 20 grams 
• Rose oil 5 drops 
• Jasmine essence 60 grams
• Violet essence 50 grams
• Cassia essence 50 grams
• Vanilla essence 45 grams
• Clove oil 20 drops 
• Bergamot oil 10 drops 
• Rose geranium oil 20 drops       

Marechale Bouquet:

• Clove oil 10 ml 
• Sandalwood oil 10 ml 
• Musk essence 1 oz 
• Ambergris essence 1 oz 
• Neroli spirit 2 ozs 
• Tonka tincture 2 ozs 
• Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
• Orris tincture 2 ozs 
• Vetiver spirit 2 ozs 
• Rose spirit 4 ozs 
• Orange flower extrait 4 ozs 

Bouquet du Marechale:

• 1 pint Esprit de rose triple
• 1 pint Extrait de fleur d'orange
• 1/2 pint Extrait de vetiver 
• 1/2 pint Extrait de vanilla
• 1/2 pint Extrait de orris
• 1/2 pint Extrait de tonka bean
• 1/2 pint Esprit de neroli
• 1/4 pint Extract of musk
• 1/4 pint Extract of ambergris
• 1/2 drachm Otto of cloves
• 1/2 drachm Otto of sandalwood

Bouquet de Marechale:

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1 pint tincture of vetiver
• 1/4 pint tincture of Tonquin
• 1/4 pint tincture of orris
• 1 dram oil of neroli
• 1/2 dram oil of vetiver
• 4 oz rose water, triple

Bouquet a la Marechale:

• Tincture of ambergris 1/2 pint 
• Tincture of musk 1/2 pint 
• Extract of neroli 1 pint 
• Extract of orange flower 1 qt 
• Tincture of tonka 1 pint 
• Tincture of vanilla 1 pint 
• Tincture of orris root 1 pint 
• Essence of vetiver 1 pint 
• Essence of rose triple 1 qt 
• Oil of clove 75 grains 
• Oil of santal 75 grains 

Eau de Marechale

• Spirit of wine 1 1/2 pint
• Spirit of jessamine 1 oz
• Essence of bergamot 1/4 oz.
• Essence of violets 1 oz

Eau de Marechale #2:

• 1 ounce essence of violets
• 1/4 ounce oil of bergamot
• 1/4 ounce oil of cloves
• 1/2 pint orange-flower water
• 1 pint rectified spirit

Mix. An agreeable and favorite perfume.

Midland Counties Bouquet Perfume

• Jasmine extrait 4 ozs 
• Rose otto 1-1/2 drs 
• Bergamot oil 4 drs 
• Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
• Musk essence 2 ozs 
• Violet extrait 2 ozs 
• Rectified spirit 16 ozs 

Mix all but the spirit and after standing fourteen days add the spirit and filter. 

Maids of Honor Bouquet Perfume

• Clove oil 1-1/2 drs 
• Nutmeg oil 1-1/2 drs 
• Sandalwood oil 2 drs 
• Lavender oil 1/2 oz 
• Rose oil 1 dr 
• Ylang ylang oil 1/2 dr 
• Tonka bean tinct 1 oz 
• Musk essence 1-1/2 ozs 
• Bergamot oil 1-1/2 ozs 
• Millefleurs 2 ozs 
• Verbena spirit 3 ozs 
• Spirit 4-1/2 pts 

Mix. 

Various Ylang Ylang Formulas

Ylang Ylang # 1.

•  Ylang ylang oil 10 ml
•  Otto rose 2 ml 
• Neroli oil 10 ml 
• Musk essence 1/2 oz 
• Jasmine extrait 2 ozs 
• Orange flower water 2 drs 

Mix.

Ylang Ylang #2.

• Neroli oil 6 ml 
• Lemon oil 6 ml 
• Rose oil 15 ml 
• Ylang ylang oil 50 ml 
• Musk essence dr 
• Spirit 2 pts 

Mix.


Ylang Ylang #3.

• Niobe Oil 1/16 dr
• Musk 1/16 dr
• Benzaldehyde 1/16 dr
• Cananga Oil 3/16 dr
• Linalyl Acetate 1 1/4 dr
• Terpineol 1 1/2 dr
• Ylang Ylang Oil 1 5/8 dr
• Benzoin Tincture 2 1/2 dr
• Cassie 9 dr
• Jonquil 3 oz
• Orris Tincture 3 1/2 oz
• Tuberose 3 1/2 oz
• Jasmine 5 oz

Various Cherry Blossom Formulas

Cherry Blossom #1.

• White heliotrope essence 6 ozs 
• Vanilla essence 1 dr 

Mix.

Cherry Blossom #2.

• Peach blossom essence 12 ozs 
• Violet extrait 2 ozs 
• Mirbane essence 2 ozs 

Mix.


Cherry Blossom Extract #3:

• Extract jasmine 3 pts 
• Extract tuberose 1 1/2 pts 
• Extract cassia i8ozs 
• Extract rose 1 2 ozs 
• Essence rose 12 ozs 
• Tincture coumarin 6 ozs 
• Tincture civet 6 ozs 
• Oil bergamot 1 oz 
• Oil rose geranium 1 oz 
• Oil neroli 1 dr 
• Oil rose synthetic 1 dr 
• Oil cardamon 1 dr 

Cherry Blossom Extract #4:

• Ambepine 3 to 10 drops 
• Anethol 1 drop 
• Oil bitter almonds 15 drops 
• Oil fennel 15 drops 
• Oil bergamot 15 drops 
• Oil neroli 75 drops 
• Acetic ether 45 drops 
• Vanillin 30 grs 
• Coumarin 5 grs 
• Tincture musk 6 drs 
• Tincture Siam benzoin 2 1/2 ozs 
• Tincture stronger orris 8 ozs 
• Essence rose (3d washing) 15 ozs 
• Alcohol 4 ozs 

Cherry Blossom #5:

• White heliotrope essence 6 ozs 
• Vanilla essence 1 dr 

Cherry Blossom #6:

• Peach blossom essence 12 ozs 
• Violet extract 2 ozs 
• Mirbane essence 2 ozs 

Cherry Blossom Perfume #7:

• Essence of peach blossom 840 
• Essence of violet 140 
• Essence of bitter almonds (1 to 9) 20 

Various Night Blooming Cereus Formulas

Night Blooming Cereus #1:

• Civet essence 2 ozs 
• Tonka bean tincture 2 ozs 
• Benzoin tincture 4 ozs 
• Rose spirit 4 ozs 
• Jasmine extrait 4 ozs 

Mix.



Extract of Night Blooming Cereus

• 1 pint extract of tuberose
• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1/2 pint  extract of violet
• 1/2 pint extract of jasmine
• 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
• 2 oz tincture of benzoin
• 2 oz tincture of musk
• 1 dram oil of nutmeg
• 1 dram oil of santal
• 1 dram oil of neroli
• 1/2 dram oil of almonds
• 8 oz orange flower water

Extract Night Blooming Cereus #2:

• 8 parts Triple Extract Rose 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Orange Flower 
• 2 parts Essence Neroli  
• 2 parts  Extract Vanilla 
• 3 parts Extract Orris  
• 1 Part  Extract Musk 
• 1 Part  Extract Civet 
• 1/10 Part Essence Almond 
• 1/20 part Tincture Benzoin 

Mix. Taken from Fenner's Complete Formulary, 1888.


Night Blooming Cereus #3:

• Tincture of tuberose 10 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 6 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmine 3 ounces 
• Tincture of violet 3 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 1 1/2 ounces 
• Tincture of coumarin 1 1/2 ounces 
• Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 1 ounce 
• Oil of neroli Portugal 30 minims 

Mix and filter if necessary. 

Saratoga Nosegay Perfume

 A refreshing perfume for the handkerchief resembling but excelling Mona bouquet.

• Musk essence 4 ozs 
• Bergamot oil 1-1/2 drs 
• Jasmin extract 2 ozs 
• English lavender oil 1-1/2 dr 
• Neroli oil 4 dr 
• Patchouli oil 5 ml 
• Pimenta oil 5 ml 
• Rose oil 1-1/2 drs 
• Verbena oil 8 ml 
• Cassia oil 5 ml 
• Alcohol to 4 pts 

Macerate one month then filter three times. 

Victoria Regia Perfume

• 20 oz Extract of tuberose  
• 16 oz Extract of jasmine 
• 4 oz Extract of neroli 
• 4 oz Extract of rose 
• 4 oz Extract of acacia flowers
• 3 oz vanilla 
• 1 oz Essence of civet 
• 1 oz Oil of bergamot  
• 5 drops bitter almonds 

Alpine Rose Perfume

• 16 oz Essence Bouquet
• 12 oz Triple extract of rose 
• 12 oz Extract of jasmin 
• 12 oz Extract of reseda
• 4 oz Essence of ambergris  
• 2 oz Essence of civet 

HMS Pinafore Bouquet Perfume

• 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
• 12 oz Extract of violets 
• 8 oz Extract of neroli 
• 1 oz Extract of musk 
• 1/4 oz Oil of bergamot 
• 1/8 oz Oil of citron 
• 40 drops Oil of cardamom 
• 20 drops Oil of melissa
• 20 drops Oil of coriander 
• 10 drops Oil of thyme 

Pinafore Bouquet 

• Oil of coriander 
• Oil of thyme 
• Oil of melissa 
• Oil of cardamoms 
• Oil of citron 
• Oil of bergamot 
• Essence of musk 
• Spirit of neroli 
• Violet extrait 
• Spirit of rose

Flowers of Love Perfume

• 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
• 14 oz Extract of jasmine 
• 12 oz Extract of acacia flowers 
• 4 oz Extract of orange flowers 
• 4 oz Extract of tuberose 
• 4 oz Extract of hyacinth 
• 2 oz Extract of jonquil 
• 2 oz Extract of vanilla 
• 1-1/2 oz Essence of ambergris  

Rose of the East Perfume

• 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
• 12 oz Extract of moss rose 
• 1/8 oz Oil of sandalwood
• 1/8 oz Oil of rose geranium 
• 1/16 oz Oil of ylang ylang 

Florilene Bouquet Perfume

• 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
• 8 oz Extract of tuberose 
• 8 oz Extract of violets
• 4 oz Extract of heliotrope  
• 4 oz Extract of orange flowers 
• 3 oz Extract of verbena
• 2 oz Extract of musk 
• 2 oz Essence of ambergris 
• 1 oz Essence of bergamot