Various Peau d'Espagne Formulas

Top notes: neroli, lavender, verbena, bergamot, linalyl acetate
Middle notes: rose, cinnamon, cloves, jasmine, ylang ylang, orange blossom
Base notes: sandalwood, benzoin, vetiver, leather (birch tar oil), civet, musk, vanillin, tolu balsam

Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish Skin, is merely highly-perfumed leather.
Take:

• 1/2 oz oil of rose
• 1/2 oz neroli
• 1/2 oz oil of santal
• 1/4 oz oil of lavender
• 1/4 oz oil of verbena
• 1/4 oz oil of bergamot
• 2 drachms oil of cloves
• 2 drachms oil of cinnamon

 

In this mixture, dissolve 2 ounces gum benzoin. In this steep good pieces of waste leather for a day or two, and dry it over a line.

Prepare a paste by rubbing in a mortar, 1 drachm of civet with 1 drachm of grain musk, and enough gum-tragacanth mucilage to give a proper consistence.

The leather is cut up into pieces about 4 inches square; two of these are pasted together with the above paste, placed between 2 pieces of paper, weighted or pressed until dry. It may then be enclosed in silk or satin.

It gives off its odor for years; is much used for perfuming paper, envelopes, etc.; for which purpose 1 or 2 pieces of the perfumed leather, kept in the drawer or desk containing the paper, will impart to it a fine and durable perfume.


Peau d Espagne #2:

• Birch Tar Oil 1/32 dr 
• Rose Oil 3/8 dr 
• Linalyl Acetate 3/8 dr 
• Ylang Ylang Oil 3/8 dr 
• Vanillin 3/8 dr 
• Lavender Oil 1 dr
• Zibethin Tincture 2 1/2 dr
• Tolu Tincture 7 dr
• Orange Flower 2 oz 
• Rose 4 oz
• Jasmine 9 1/4 oz

Sachet a la Frangipanne

Sachet a la Frangipanne:

• 3 lbs orris root powder
• 1/4 lb vetiver powder 
• 1/4 lb santal wood powder
• 1 drachm otto of neroli
• 1 drachm otto of rose
• 1 drachm otto of santal
• 1 oz ground Musk pods

The name of this sachet has been handed down to us as being derived from a Roman of the noble family of Frangipani. Mutio Frangipani was an alchemist, evidently of some repute, as we have another article called rosolis, or ros-solis, "sun-dew", an aromatic spirituous liquor, used as a stomachic, of which he is said to be the inventor, composed of wine, in which is steeped coriander, fennel, anise, and musk.


Frangipani Sachet #2:

• 3 pounds Powdered Orris 
• 1/4 pound Ground Vetiver
• 1/4 pound Ground Sandalwood
• 1/4 pound Ground Vanilla Beans
• 2 ounces Ground Tonka Beans  
• 60 minims Oil Neroli 
• 40 minims Oil Sandalwood 
• 60 minims Oil Bergamot  
• 60 minims Oil French Geranium 
• 30 minims Otto Rose 
• 1 ounce Extract Musk 
• 1/2 ounce Extract Civet 

Mix well.


Frangipani Sachet #3:

• 1 lb orris-root 
• 1 lb rose-leaves
•  1/4 lb sandalwood
• 1/4 lb Tonka beans
• 1 dram musk
• 1/4 dram civet
• 1/2 dram essence of roses

Triturate the musk, civet, and essence of roses, and mix with the other substances reduced to a powder.

Rose Sachet Recipes

Rose Sachet #1

• Orris root 200 parts 
• Rose leaves 600 parts 
• Sandalwood 100 parts 
• Patchouli 100 parts 
• Rose geranium oil 3 parts 
• Rose oil 2 parts 

Rose Sachet #2

• 1/2 pound Powdered Orris 
• 1 1/2 pound Ground Rose Leaves 
• 4 ounces Ground Sandalwood 
• 2 ounces Ground Patchouly 
• 1/2 ounce Extract Civet  
• 30 minims Oil French Geranium 
• 20 minims Otto Rose  

Mix.



Rose Sachet #3:

• 1 lb Rose hips
• 1/2 lb powdered sandal wood
• 1/4 oz. otto of roses

Rose Sachet #4:

• 8 oz Powdered florentine orris root
• 10 oz Rose leaves (air dried)
• 20 grains of powdered Musk 
• 2 oz Lavender flowers
• 10 grains of Civet

Rose Scented Sachet Powder


Rose. Powdered starch 3 oz., carmine to colour, otto of roses 3 drops, orris powder 1 oz. Violet. Orris powder 4 oz., essence of bergamot 20 drops, essence of ambergris 20 drops. Poudre de Chypre. Oak-moss is macerated in clean water for a day or two, and strongly pressed in a cloth; it is then moistened with rose-water mixed with a third of orange-flower water for two days, pressed, and pulverized.

It serves as a basis for other perfumes, the power of which it is said to increase. and sandal-wood, each

Sachet au Cypre

• 1 lb ground rosewood
• 1 lb ground cedarwood
• 1 lb ground sandalwood
• 3 drachms otto of rose or otto of rhodium

Mix and sift, then is ready for sale.

The French and English perfumers concoct a great variety of these substances, which being put into silk bags, or ornamental envelopes,find a ready sale, being both good to smell and economical as a means of
imparting an agreeable odor to linen and clothes as they lie in drawers. The following formula shows their composition. Every material is either to be ground in a mill, or powdered in a mortar, and afterwards sifted.