Various Heliotrope Perfume Formulas

HELIOTROPE TYPE - Natural products occasionally offered but synthetics closely approximate the natural fragrance Heliotropin (piperonal) is the basic odor with flowering adjuvants of hydroxycitronellal, geraniol, methyl acetophenone, and benzyl acetate. 

Melilotus, honeysuckle and Marvel of Peru have an odor of, suggestive of, but distinct from heliotrope. Coumarin, the basis of sweet clover (melilot) and new mown hay compositions, and the honeysuckle note is obtained by of linalol, geraniol, hydroxycitronellal, vanillin acetate, with tuberose essence.

 

Heliotrope #1:

• Ylang Ylang Oil 1/4 dr 
• Benzyl Acetate 1 1/4 dr
• Terpineol 5 dr
• Heliotropin 5 1/2 dr
• Musk Tincture 12 dr
• Vanillin Tincture 12 dr
• Peru Balsam Tincture 12 dr
• Rose 3 oz 
• Tuberose 3 oz
• Jasmine 7 oz

Heliotrope #2:

• 5 oz cassie extract
• 1 oz orris
• 4 oz orange flower
• 12 oz jasmine
• 10 oz vanilla
• 12 oz tuberose
• 6 drams esprit de rose
• 6 drops almond oil

Heliotrope #3:

• 2 qts extract of rose, made from the pomade
• 1 qt extract of orange flowers, made from the pomade
• 4 oz tincture of ambergris
• 4 oz Heliotropin
• 1 dram musk xylene, 100%
• 1 qt alcohol

Heliotrope #4:

• Tincture of heliotrope (1 to 16) 8 ounces 
• Tincture of orris 16 ounces 
• Tincture or rose 8 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmin 8 ounces 
• Tincture of styrax 2 drams 
• Tincture of vetiver 2 drams 
• Tincture of coumarin 8 ounces 
• Oil of bergamot 2 drams 
• Oil of bitter almonds 8 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary

Extrait d'Heliotrope:

• Extract of jasmine from pomade 2 qts 
• Extract of orange flowers 1 pint 
• Tincture of ambergris 4 oz 
• Heliotropine 4 oz 
• Ylang Ylang, Siegert 2 drams 
• Coumarin 2 drams 
• Musk xylene 1 dram 
• Alcohol to make 4 qts 

Extrait  de Heliotrope #2:

• 1/2 pint Spirituous extract of vanilla
• 1/4 pint Spirituous extract of French rose pomatum
• 2 oz Spirituous extract of orange-flower pomatum
• 1 oz Spirituous extract of ambergris
•  5 drops Essential oil of almonds

A preparation made in this manner under the name of Extract de Heliotrope is that which is sold in the shops of Paris and London, and is really a very nice perfume, passing well with the public for a genuine extract of heliotrope.

Extrait au Heliotrope:

• 2 pints Extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1/2 pint Tincture of vanilla  
• 2 oz tincture of civet 
• 2 oz tincture of ambergris 
• 1 dram Oil of almonds 
• 4 oz Rose-water, triple  

Heliotrope is not cultivated for its perfume, although very fine. This formula is an imitation, and I believe a very good one.

Eau de Heliotrope:

• 1/2 Imperial fluid drachm essence of ambergris, coarsely powdered
• 1/2 ounce avoirdupois vanilla
• 1/2 pin orange-flower water
• 1 quart rectified spirit

5 or 6 drops each of oil of bitter almonds and cassia are sometimes added

Digest for a week, and then decant or filter. Used both as a cosmetic and perfume.

Essence of Heliotrope
Spirituous extract of vanilla 1/2 pint, of French rose-pomatum 1/4 pint, of orange-flower, pomatum 2 oz., of ambergris 1 oz.; add 5 drops of the essential oil of almond.


Eau Spiritueuse d'Heliotrope
 Eau Spiritueuse d'Heliotrope. Vanilla 3 drs., double orange-flower water 6 oz., rectified spirit a quart; macerate for 3 days, and distil in a water-bath. It may be coloured with cochineal. But the essence d'heliotrope of some perfumers appears, by the colour, not to have been distilled.


Heliotrope:

• heliotropin
• bergamot
• synthetic neroli
• orris
• Peru balsam
• bitter almond
• vanillin

Heliotrope for Perfuming Face Powder c1894

We repeat our to your query, that heliotrope as odor, is generally imparted to face powder from the various ingredients in preparing it. However, if you prepared your powder, we presume heliotrope odor may be given it by carefully working in a sufficient amount one of the following perfumes:

• 1 1/2 drams Vanilla 
• 10 drops Oil orange flower 
• 5 drops Oil cherry laurel
• 3/4 grains Musk 
• 6 drams Benzoin 
• 1 pint Alcohol 
• 1 oz Extract orange flower 
• 1 quart Extract white rose 
• 1 oz Extract benzoin 
• 1/2 pint Extract Vanilla 
• 1 oz Extract civet 
• 3 minims Oil bitter almonds 

Various Heliotrope Perfumes

Heliotrope #1:

• Heliotropin 60 parts 
• Coumarin 3 parts 
• Peru balsam 5 parts 
• Vanillin 2 parts 
• Terpineol 5 parts 
• Alcohol deodorized 10,000 parts 
• Water distilled 6,300 parts 

Mix the water and alcohol and dissolve the essences in the mixture.



Heliotrope #2:

• 120,0 Essence of Vanilla
• 60,0 Essence of Rose
• 48,0 Essence of Neroli
• 4,0 Essence of Amber
• 5 drops Bitter Almond Oil

Mixed, infused for 7 days, filter.


Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales):

• 13.5 oz cassie extract
• 5 oz tincture of ambergris
• 2.5 oz jasmine extract
• 5 oz tincture of musk
• 5 pts rose extract
• 2.5 pints violet extract
• 13.5 oz verbena extract
• 2.5 pints rose essence
• 4 oz "Heliotropine"
• 1 dram Musk xylene, 100%

Marquez Heliotrope Extract:

• Vanilla 6 grams

Triturate and put in 500 grams of alcohol at 85 degrees. Add 90 grams of orange blossom water and leave to macerate for two or three days. Color with cochineal tincture and filter.

Mysolia Perfume c1900

• 26 fluid ozs ess bouquet perfume 
• 25 fluid ozs Jockey Club perfume 
• 12 fluid ozs tincture of heliotropine 

Method: Mix and tinge a lilac tint with aniline.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.