Heliotrope for Perfuming Face Powder c1894

We repeat our to your query, that heliotrope as odor, is generally imparted to face powder from the various ingredients in preparing it. However, if you prepared your powder, we presume heliotrope odor may be given it by carefully working in a sufficient amount one of the following perfumes:

• 1 1/2 drams Vanilla 
• 10 drops Oil orange flower 
• 5 drops Oil cherry laurel
• 3/4 grains Musk 
• 6 drams Benzoin 
• 1 pint Alcohol 
• 1 oz Extract orange flower 
• 1 quart Extract white rose 
• 1 oz Extract benzoin 
• 1/2 pint Extract Vanilla 
• 1 oz Extract civet 
• 3 minims Oil bitter almonds 

Oxford and Cambridge Bouquet Perfume

• 11 minims Oil of lemon 
• 1 dram Oil of bergamot 
• 1 oz Tincture of storax 
• 3 oz Essence of musk 
• 3 oz Essence of patchouli 
• 4 oz Spirit of geranium 
• 5 oz Essence of vanilla 
• 5 oz Spirit of santal 
• 10 oz Spirit of rose  
• 10 oz Cassie extrait  
• 10 oz Jasmine extrait  
• 10 oz Rose extrait 
• 10 oz Tuberose extrait 
• 1 Imperial pint Violet extrait  

Mix. 

Royal Osbourne Bouquet c1855 and Osborne Bouquet by Rimmel c1856

Royal Osbourne Bouquet c1855

• 1/2 pint Extract of orris 
• 1/4 pint Extract of vetiver 
• 1 pint Extract of sandalwood 
• 1/2 pint Extract of rose 

Osborne Bouquet by Rimmel c1856

• 1 minim Otto of rose 
• 1 oz Essence of musk
• 2 oz Essence of ambergris 
• 3 oz Spirit of vetiver
• 5 oz Spirit of sandalwood 
• 7 oz Jasmine extrait 
• 10 oz Tincture of orris
• 10 oz Violet extrait  
• 15 oz Cassie extrait

Mix.

Osborne Bouquet 

• Otto of rose 
• Essence of musk 
• Essence of ambergris 
• Spirit of vetivert 
• Spirit of santal 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Tincture of orris 
• Violet extrait 
• Cassie extrait

Cologne du Roi

The following formula has been published by one of the Messrs. Farina, the originators of cologne:


Take:

• 1/4 oz Benzoin
• 1/4 oz Oil or Rosemary
• 1/2 oz Oil of Lavender 
• 9 pints Strong Alcohol

 Mix, and agitate thoroughly together, and then add successively:

• 1 oz Oil of Neroli (petits grains)
• 1 oz Oil of Lemon
• 2 oz Oil of sweet Orange (Aurantii Dulcis)
• 2 oz Oil of Limettae (Lime)
• 2 oz Oil of Bergamot,
• 2 oz Tinct. Flor. Geranii Rose (Flowers of Rose Geranium) 

Let stand for several weeks a sufficient quantity to impart the desired fragrance. Macerate for several weeks, and fill into flasks.

A.D. Circ., VIII 85. Am. Jour. Pharm., 1864 p 375. I have reduced weights and measures above.

J. Maria Farina Cologne

• 4 oz Benzoin dissolved in alcohol
• 8 oz essence of lavender
• 4 oz essence of rosemary
• 325 qts alcohol at 75° 

To this solution add succesively:

• 21 oz neroli
• 21 oz petit grain
• 21 oz cedrat
• 2 1/2 lbs essence of Portugal (probably essential oil of bitter or sweet orange peel)
• 2 1/2 lbs.lemon
• 2 1/2 lbs.  alcoholic extract of geranium

Shake several times; leave 14 days, and bottle.

Alexandra Bouquet Perfume

• Bergamot oil 3-1/2 drs 
• Rose geranium oil 1/2 dr 
• Rose oil 1/2 dr 
• Cassia oil 15 ml 
• Spirit 1 pt 

Esprit de Jasmine Perfume

• Jasmine extrait 1 pt 
• Ambergris essence dram 
• Neroli oil 8 ml
• Spirit 10 ozs 

Mix. 

Various Heliotrope Perfumes

Heliotrope #1:

• Heliotropin 60 parts 
• Coumarin 3 parts 
• Peru balsam 5 parts 
• Vanillin 2 parts 
• Terpineol 5 parts 
• Alcohol deodorized 10,000 parts 
• Water distilled 6,300 parts 

Mix the water and alcohol and dissolve the essences in the mixture.



Heliotrope #2:

• 120,0 Essence of Vanilla
• 60,0 Essence of Rose
• 48,0 Essence of Neroli
• 4,0 Essence of Amber
• 5 drops Bitter Almond Oil

Mixed, infused for 7 days, filter.


Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales):

• 13.5 oz cassie extract
• 5 oz tincture of ambergris
• 2.5 oz jasmine extract
• 5 oz tincture of musk
• 5 pts rose extract
• 2.5 pints violet extract
• 13.5 oz verbena extract
• 2.5 pints rose essence
• 4 oz "Heliotropine"
• 1 dram Musk xylene, 100%

Marquez Heliotrope Extract:

• Vanilla 6 grams

Triturate and put in 500 grams of alcohol at 85 degrees. Add 90 grams of orange blossom water and leave to macerate for two or three days. Color with cochineal tincture and filter.

Marechale Rose Formulas

Marechal Niel Rose:

In the genus of roses outside of the hundred leaved or rose the Marechal Niel rose  (Rosa Noisetteana Red) also called Noisette rose, and often erroneously tea, is especially conspicuous. Its fine piquant odor delights all lovers of precious perfumes. In order to reproduce the fine scent of this flower artificially at periods when it cannot be had without much expenditure the following recipes will be found useful:

Infusion a la Marechale, Composee:

extrait de fleurs d'oranger 6 liters

extrait de roses 1.5 liters

extrait de jasmin 4 liters

extrait de tuberose 3 liters

extrait de cassie 1.5 liters

poudre a la marechale 1.900 kilograms

Autre Infusion a la Marechale, composee:

extrait de fleurs d'oranger 3 liters

extrait de roses 2.5 liters

extrait de jasmin 2 liters

extrait de tuberose 1.5 liters

extrait de cassie 1.5 liters

poudre a la marechale 1 kilograms

BOUQUET A LA MARECHALE -

• spirit of roses, triple 0.56 liter
• orange blossom extract 0.56 liter
• vetiver extract 0.28 liter of each.
• vanilla extract 0.28 liter of each.
• neroli extract 0.28 liter of each.
• musk extract 0.14 liter of each.
• ambergris extract 0.14 liter of each.
• clove essence 0.88 gr of each
• sandalwood essence 0.88 gram of each.

This bouquet is part of the composition of the following:

EAU DE MOUSSELINE -

• Bouquet a la Marechale 0.56 liter
• cassie extract 0.28 liter of each.
• jasmine extract 0.28 liter of each.
• tuberose extract 0.28 liter of each.
• rose extract (four ointment) 0.28 liter of each.
• sandalwood essence 3.54 gr.

Marechale Rose #1:

• Infusion rose 1,000 parts 
• Genuine rose oil 10 parts 
• Infusion Tolu balsam 150 parts 
• Infusion genuine musk I 40 parts 
• Neroli oil parts 
• Clove oil 2 parts 
• Infusion tubereuse 1,000 parts 
• Vanillin 1 part 
• Coumarin 0.5 parts 

Marechale Rose #2:

• Triple rose essence 50 grams 
• Simple rose essence 60 grams 
• Neroli essence 30 grams
• Civet essence 20 grams
• Iris essence 30 grams
• Tonka beans essence 20 grams 
• Rose oil 5 drops 
• Jasmine essence 60 grams
• Violet essence 50 grams
• Cassia essence 50 grams
• Vanilla essence 45 grams
• Clove oil 20 drops 
• Bergamot oil 10 drops 
• Rose geranium oil 20 drops       

Marechale Bouquet:

• Clove oil 10 ml 
• Sandalwood oil 10 ml 
• Musk essence 1 oz 
• Ambergris essence 1 oz 
• Neroli spirit 2 ozs 
• Tonka tincture 2 ozs 
• Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
• Orris tincture 2 ozs 
• Vetiver spirit 2 ozs 
• Rose spirit 4 ozs 
• Orange flower extrait 4 ozs 

Bouquet du Marechale:

• 1 pint Esprit de rose triple
• 1 pint Extrait de fleur d'orange
• 1/2 pint Extrait de vetiver 
• 1/2 pint Extrait de vanilla
• 1/2 pint Extrait de orris
• 1/2 pint Extrait de tonka bean
• 1/2 pint Esprit de neroli
• 1/4 pint Extract of musk
• 1/4 pint Extract of ambergris
• 1/2 drachm Otto of cloves
• 1/2 drachm Otto of sandalwood

Bouquet de Marechale:

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1 pint tincture of vetiver
• 1/4 pint tincture of Tonquin
• 1/4 pint tincture of orris
• 1 dram oil of neroli
• 1/2 dram oil of vetiver
• 4 oz rose water, triple

Bouquet a la Marechale:

• Tincture of ambergris 1/2 pint 
• Tincture of musk 1/2 pint 
• Extract of neroli 1 pint 
• Extract of orange flower 1 qt 
• Tincture of tonka 1 pint 
• Tincture of vanilla 1 pint 
• Tincture of orris root 1 pint 
• Essence of vetiver 1 pint 
• Essence of rose triple 1 qt 
• Oil of clove 75 grains 
• Oil of santal 75 grains 

Eau de Marechale

• Spirit of wine 1 1/2 pint
• Spirit of jessamine 1 oz
• Essence of bergamot 1/4 oz.
• Essence of violets 1 oz

Eau de Marechale #2:

• 1 ounce essence of violets
• 1/4 ounce oil of bergamot
• 1/4 ounce oil of cloves
• 1/2 pint orange-flower water
• 1 pint rectified spirit

Mix. An agreeable and favorite perfume.

Midland Counties Bouquet Perfume

• Jasmine extrait 4 ozs 
• Rose otto 1-1/2 drs 
• Bergamot oil 4 drs 
• Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
• Musk essence 2 ozs 
• Violet extrait 2 ozs 
• Rectified spirit 16 ozs 

Mix all but the spirit and after standing fourteen days add the spirit and filter. 

Maids of Honor Bouquet Perfume

• Clove oil 1-1/2 drs 
• Nutmeg oil 1-1/2 drs 
• Sandalwood oil 2 drs 
• Lavender oil 1/2 oz 
• Rose oil 1 dr 
• Ylang ylang oil 1/2 dr 
• Tonka bean tinct 1 oz 
• Musk essence 1-1/2 ozs 
• Bergamot oil 1-1/2 ozs 
• Millefleurs 2 ozs 
• Verbena spirit 3 ozs 
• Spirit 4-1/2 pts 

Mix. 

Various Ylang Ylang Formulas

Ylang Ylang # 1.

•  Ylang ylang oil 10 ml
•  Otto rose 2 ml 
• Neroli oil 10 ml 
• Musk essence 1/2 oz 
• Jasmine extrait 2 ozs 
• Orange flower water 2 drs 

Mix.

Ylang Ylang #2.

• Neroli oil 6 ml 
• Lemon oil 6 ml 
• Rose oil 15 ml 
• Ylang ylang oil 50 ml 
• Musk essence dr 
• Spirit 2 pts 

Mix.


Ylang Ylang #3.

• Niobe Oil 1/16 dr
• Musk 1/16 dr
• Benzaldehyde 1/16 dr
• Cananga Oil 3/16 dr
• Linalyl Acetate 1 1/4 dr
• Terpineol 1 1/2 dr
• Ylang Ylang Oil 1 5/8 dr
• Benzoin Tincture 2 1/2 dr
• Cassie 9 dr
• Jonquil 3 oz
• Orris Tincture 3 1/2 oz
• Tuberose 3 1/2 oz
• Jasmine 5 oz

Various Cherry Blossom Formulas

Cherry Blossom #1.

• White heliotrope essence 6 ozs 
• Vanilla essence 1 dr 

Mix.

Cherry Blossom #2.

• Peach blossom essence 12 ozs 
• Violet extrait 2 ozs 
• Mirbane essence 2 ozs 

Mix.


Cherry Blossom Extract #3:

• Extract jasmine 3 pts 
• Extract tuberose 1 1/2 pts 
• Extract cassia i8ozs 
• Extract rose 1 2 ozs 
• Essence rose 12 ozs 
• Tincture coumarin 6 ozs 
• Tincture civet 6 ozs 
• Oil bergamot 1 oz 
• Oil rose geranium 1 oz 
• Oil neroli 1 dr 
• Oil rose synthetic 1 dr 
• Oil cardamon 1 dr 

Cherry Blossom Extract #4:

• Ambepine 3 to 10 drops 
• Anethol 1 drop 
• Oil bitter almonds 15 drops 
• Oil fennel 15 drops 
• Oil bergamot 15 drops 
• Oil neroli 75 drops 
• Acetic ether 45 drops 
• Vanillin 30 grs 
• Coumarin 5 grs 
• Tincture musk 6 drs 
• Tincture Siam benzoin 2 1/2 ozs 
• Tincture stronger orris 8 ozs 
• Essence rose (3d washing) 15 ozs 
• Alcohol 4 ozs 

Cherry Blossom #5:

• White heliotrope essence 6 ozs 
• Vanilla essence 1 dr 

Cherry Blossom #6:

• Peach blossom essence 12 ozs 
• Violet extract 2 ozs 
• Mirbane essence 2 ozs 

Cherry Blossom Perfume #7:

• Essence of peach blossom 840 
• Essence of violet 140 
• Essence of bitter almonds (1 to 9) 20 

Various Night Blooming Cereus Formulas

Night Blooming Cereus #1:

• Civet essence 2 ozs 
• Tonka bean tincture 2 ozs 
• Benzoin tincture 4 ozs 
• Rose spirit 4 ozs 
• Jasmine extrait 4 ozs 

Mix.



Extract of Night Blooming Cereus

• 1 pint extract of tuberose
• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1/2 pint  extract of violet
• 1/2 pint extract of jasmine
• 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
• 2 oz tincture of benzoin
• 2 oz tincture of musk
• 1 dram oil of nutmeg
• 1 dram oil of santal
• 1 dram oil of neroli
• 1/2 dram oil of almonds
• 8 oz orange flower water

Extract Night Blooming Cereus #2:

• 8 parts Triple Extract Rose 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Orange Flower 
• 2 parts Essence Neroli  
• 2 parts  Extract Vanilla 
• 3 parts Extract Orris  
• 1 Part  Extract Musk 
• 1 Part  Extract Civet 
• 1/10 Part Essence Almond 
• 1/20 part Tincture Benzoin 

Mix. Taken from Fenner's Complete Formulary, 1888.


Night Blooming Cereus #3:

• Tincture of tuberose 10 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 6 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmine 3 ounces 
• Tincture of violet 3 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 1 1/2 ounces 
• Tincture of coumarin 1 1/2 ounces 
• Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 1 ounce 
• Oil of neroli Portugal 30 minims 

Mix and filter if necessary. 

Saratoga Nosegay Perfume

 A refreshing perfume for the handkerchief resembling but excelling Mona bouquet.

• Musk essence 4 ozs 
• Bergamot oil 1-1/2 drs 
• Jasmin extract 2 ozs 
• English lavender oil 1-1/2 dr 
• Neroli oil 4 dr 
• Patchouli oil 5 ml 
• Pimenta oil 5 ml 
• Rose oil 1-1/2 drs 
• Verbena oil 8 ml 
• Cassia oil 5 ml 
• Alcohol to 4 pts 

Macerate one month then filter three times. 

Victoria Regia Perfume

• 20 oz Extract of tuberose  
• 16 oz Extract of jasmine 
• 4 oz Extract of neroli 
• 4 oz Extract of rose 
• 4 oz Extract of acacia flowers
• 3 oz vanilla 
• 1 oz Essence of civet 
• 1 oz Oil of bergamot  
• 5 drops bitter almonds 

Alpine Rose Perfume

• 16 oz Essence Bouquet
• 12 oz Triple extract of rose 
• 12 oz Extract of jasmin 
• 12 oz Extract of reseda
• 4 oz Essence of ambergris  
• 2 oz Essence of civet 

HMS Pinafore Bouquet Perfume

• 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
• 12 oz Extract of violets 
• 8 oz Extract of neroli 
• 1 oz Extract of musk 
• 1/4 oz Oil of bergamot 
• 1/8 oz Oil of citron 
• 40 drops Oil of cardamom 
• 20 drops Oil of melissa
• 20 drops Oil of coriander 
• 10 drops Oil of thyme 

Pinafore Bouquet 

• Oil of coriander 
• Oil of thyme 
• Oil of melissa 
• Oil of cardamoms 
• Oil of citron 
• Oil of bergamot 
• Essence of musk 
• Spirit of neroli 
• Violet extrait 
• Spirit of rose

Rose of the East Perfume

• 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
• 12 oz Extract of moss rose 
• 1/8 oz Oil of sandalwood
• 1/8 oz Oil of rose geranium 
• 1/16 oz Oil of ylang ylang 

Florilene Bouquet Perfume

• 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
• 8 oz Extract of tuberose 
• 8 oz Extract of violets
• 4 oz Extract of heliotrope  
• 4 oz Extract of orange flowers 
• 3 oz Extract of verbena
• 2 oz Extract of musk 
• 2 oz Essence of ambergris 
• 1 oz Essence of bergamot