Saturday, June 6, 2020

Various Chypre Formulas

Top notes: petitgrain, orange bigarade, bergamot, limetta, neroli petale
Middle notes: rosemary, orris, rose, tuberose, cassie, hyacinth, geranium
Base notes: ambergris, musk, tonka bean, vanilla, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, ambergris, vetiver, storax, sandalwood, civet



Chypre:
  • Oil of rosemary 1,080 grains 
  • Oil of finest orange bigarade 2,160 grains 
  • Oil of petitgrain 1,260  grains 
  • Oil of bergamot 340 grains 
  • Oil of limetta 2,250 grains 
  • Oil of neroli petale 450  grains 
  • Alcohol deodorised 35 pints
  • Distilled water 20 pints

 Digest the oils with the alcohol for four or five days then add the distilled water.




Bouquet de Chypre

  • 1 liter of ambergris essence
  • 1 liter of musk essence
  • 1 liter of tonka essence
  • 1 liter of vanilla essence
  • 1 liter of orris root essence
  • 2 liter of extrait de roses triple



Chypre:
  • Calamus Oil 1/4 dr 
  • Patchouly Oil 1/4 dr  
  • Sandal Oil 1/4 dr 
  • Coumarin 1/2 dr 
  • Vanillin 1/2 dr 
  • Bergamot Oil 1 oz
  • Zibethin 10 solution 1 1/4 oz
  • Castor Tincture 1 1/2 oz
  • Musk Tincture 2 1/2 oz
  • Cassie l 1/2 oz 
  • Jasmine 4 oz
  • Rose 4 oz
  • Tuberose 6 oz


Bouquet de Chypre 
  • Musk, ambrene, 100% 1 dram 
  • Tincture of musk 8 oz 
  • Tincture of tonka 1 qt 
  • Tincture of vanilla 1 qt 
  • Tincture of orris root 1 qt 
  • Essence of rose triple 2 qts 
  • Tincture oak moss 8 oz 
  • Resinoid labdanum (Roure) 1 oz 
  • Coumarin 4 drams 
  • Alcohol, to make 8 qts 

Eau de Chipre:

  • 1 gallon of Spirit of Jasmine infuse in it:
  • 1/2 ounce of Florentine Orris grossly powdered 
  • 1/4 ounce ounce of bruised Angelica-seeds
  • 3 scraped Nutmegs 
  • 3 ounces of White Musk-roses bruised
  • 1 drachm of Spirit of Orange
  • 15 drops of Essence of Ambergris 


If it is not the season for Roses, when you make this Water, put  instead of them a pint of Rose-water scented with Musk, and if that cannot be procured, use common Rose-water; draw  off the Spirit in a water bath, and in a stream like a thread; taking care to place the receiver in cold water, that the Spirit may cool as safely as possible and thereby the better preserve its perfume.




Extrait de Chypre (Cypress Bouquet):
  • 1 pint Extract of rose 
  • 1 pint Tincture of orris 
  • 1/2 pint Tincture of Tonquin 
  • 1/2 pint Tincture of vanilla  
  • 1/4 pint Tincture of musk 
  • 1/4 pint Tincture of ambergris
  • 1/2 pint rosewater, double strength

Chypre:
  • bergamot
  • bourbon geranium
  • orris
  • patchouli
  • coumarin
  • oakmoss
  • hyacinthine
  • musk
  • vanilla


Chene Royal (Königs-Eiche):
  • 5000g Infusion Eichenmoos
  • 1000g Infusion orange
  • 3000g Infusion Jasmine
  • 20g Coumarin (Haarman & Reimer)
  • 200g Infusion Storax
  • 15g Orgeol (Haarman & Reimer)
  • 5g Petitgrainol
  • 20g Linalool


German Chypre:
3750g cassie tincture
3750 musk extract
2500 verbena extract
40g Safranol
40g sandalwood oil
20g musk tincture


CHYPRE 
  • Oil of rosemary 
  • Oil of bitter orange 
  • Oil of petitgrain 
  • Oil of bergamot 
  • Oil of limette
  • Oil of neroli 
  • Cologne spirit 

Mix and after four days add 10 oz of distilled water. Allow to remain at rest for a fortnight and filter. 


Extrait de Chypre, superieur:
infusion de chypre 4 litres
infusion a la marechale 2 litres
extrait de tuberose 2 liters
extrait d'orange 1 liters
extrait de jasmine 1 liters
extrait de roses 1 liters

Infusion de Chypre composee:
extrait de fleurs d'oranger  3 liters
extrait de roses  3 liters
extrait de jasmin 3  liters
extrait de tuberose  3 liters
extrait de cassie 1  liters
poudre de Chypre 1 kilogram

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