Tuesday, July 28, 2015

Tulip Nosegay Perfume

Nearly all the tulip tribe, although beautiful to the eye, are inodorous. The variety called the Duc Van Thol, however, yields an exquisite perfume, but it is not used by the manufacturer for the purpose of extracting its odor. He, however, borrows its poetical name, and makes an excellent imitation thus:


  • 1 pint Extract of tubereuse
  • 1 pint Extract of violet
  • 1/2 pint Extract of  rose
  • 3 oz  Extract of orris
  • 3 drops Otto of almonds

Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Various Millefleurs Formulas

Extrait Commun des Mille-Fleurs:
infusion de vanille 2 liters
infusion de lavande 1 liter
infusion d'ambrette 1.5 liters
grain alcohol at 90% 9 liters
esprit de roses 1 liter
essence de citron 125 gr
essence de cannelle 5 gr
essence de bergamot 60 gr
essence de girofle 15 gr
essence de geranium 15 gr
eau de riviere 1 liter
eau de roses 2 liters

Top notes: Citral, palmarosa, lemon, bergamot, geranium, girofle, orange, neroli, eugenol, verbena, pimento, acacia, citronella
Middle notes: rosemary, methyl ionone, tuberose, thyme, Mitcham lavender, rose, jasmine, cinnamon, honey, heliotropin, iris, orange blossom
Base notes: vanillin, ambrette, styrax, storax, tolu balsam, musk xylene, ambergris, vetiver, cedar, civet, patchouli, Peru balsam



Extrait des Mille-Fleurs:
extrait d'essence de bouquet 2 liters
extrait de mousseline 2 liters
extrait de miel 2 liters
extrait de lavande mitcham 1 liter
extrait d'orange 2 liters
extrait de jasmin 2 liters
infusion d'heliotrope 1 liter
infusion d;iris 1 liter
infusion de girofle 1 liter
essence de Portugal 125 gr
infusion de styrax 125 gr
infusion de storax 125 gr
infusion de tolu 125 gr

Extrait des Mille-Fleurs:
essence de neroli 2 gr
essence de girofle 4 gr
tincture de vanille 30 gr
alcohol de Montpellier 1 liter
eau de bouquet, spiritueuse 1 liter
eau de rose 500 gr
eau de fleurs d'oranger 250 gr
tincture d'ambre gris 2 gr
tincture de musc 2 gr
Filter au bout de quinze jours.




French Extrait de Millefleurs Perfume:
  • 4 grains finest grain musk
  • 6 grains finest ambergris
  • 6 drachms oil of lemon
  • 4 drachms oil of lavender (English)
  • 4 drachms oil of cloves
  • 1 drachm liquid storax (genuine)
  • 12 drops (minims) oil of verbena
  • 12 drops (minims) oil of pimento
  • 12 drops (minims) neroli 
  • 1 Imperial pint rectified spirit

Macerate in a warm room, with frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 weeks. Very fine. The omission of the storax renders it paler, and thus preferable to some persons.


Millefleurs:
  • Lemon Oil 3/4 dr
  • Orange Oil 3/4 dr
  • Lavender Oil 1 dr
  • Geranium Oil 1 dr 
  • Vetiver Oil 3 1/2 dr 
  • Cedar Oil 6 dr
  • Civet Tincture 7 dr
  • Musk Tincture 12 dr
  • Vanillin Tincture 1 1/2 oz 
  • Orange Flower 2 1/2 oz 
  • Jasmine 2 1/2 oz  
  • Cassie 3 1/2 oz 
  • Violet 4 oz

Bouquet de Mille-Fleurs (A Thousand Flowers):

  • 1 pint extract of rose
  • 1/2 pint extract of tuberose 
  • 1/2 pint extract of jasmine
  • 1/2 pint extract of orange flower 
  • 1/2 pint extract of cassie 
  • 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla 
  • 2 oz tincture of musk 
  • 2 oz tincture of ambergris 
  • 1 dram oil of oil of neroli 
  • 2 drams oil of bergamot 
  • 1/2 dram oil of cloves 
  • 1/2 dram oil of almonds 
  • 8 oz rose-water, triple 
A perfume that has always been popular and always 
will be.


Millefleur Toilet Water:

  • 9 pints very pure rectified spirit
  • 1 ounce balsam of Peru (genuine) 
  • 1 ounce essence of cloves
  • 2 ounces essences of bergamot 
  • 2 ounces musk
  • 1/4 ounce essences of neroli 
  • 1/4 ounce thyme
  • 1 quart eau de fleurs d'oranges

Mix well. Very fine.


Balm of a Thousand Flowers Perfume:

  • Deodorized alcohol, one pint
  • nice white bar soap, four ounces


Shave the soap when put in; stand in a warm place till dissolved; then add oil of citronella, one dram, and oils of neroli and rosemary, of each one-half dram.


Eau de Mille Fleurs #1:

  • Extract of cassie 1 pint 
  • Essence of rose 1 pint 
  • Extract of jasmine 1 pint 
  • Tincture of musk 6 fl oz 
  • Extract of neroli 1 pint 
  • Extract of patchouly 1 pint 
  • Tincture of vanilla 2 oz 
  • Extract of violet 1 pint 
  • Essence of vetiver 2 oz 
  • Tincture of civet 6 fl oz 
  • Citral 1 dram 
  • Oil of geranium 3/4 oz 
  • Oil of lavender 3/4 oz 
  • Musk xylene, 100% 1 dram 


Eau de Mille Fleurs #2:

  • Extract of cassie 1 pint 
  • Tincture of ambergris 1/2 pint 
  • Essence of cedar 1/2 pint 
  • Extract of jasmine 1 pint 
  • Tincture of musk 1/2 pint 
  • Extract of orange flower 1 pint 
  • Extract of rose 1 pint 
  • Extract of tuberose 1 pint 
  • Tincture of vanilla 1/2 pint 
  • Extract of violet 1 pint 
  • Essence of rose simple 1 qt 
  • Oil of bergamot 1 1/4 oz 
  • Oil of bitter almond 24 grains 
  • Oil of clove 24 grains 
  • Oil of neroli 24 grains 



Eau de Mille Fleurs a Palmarose:

  • Extract of cassie 6 fl oz 
  • Essence of cedar 3 fl oz 
  • Tincture of musk 3 fl oz 
  • Extract of violet 6 fl oz 
  • Oil of bergamot 1 1/2 oz 
  • Oil of cedar 1 3/4 oz 
  • Oil of lemon 1/4 oz 
  • Oil of lavender 1/4 oz 
  • Oil of clove 1/4 oz 
  • Oil of palmarosa 1/2 oz 
  • Alcohol 9 pints 



Eau de Millefleurs:

  • Rectified spirit 2 pints
  • balsam of Peru 1/4 oz
  • essence of bergamot 1/2 oz
  • oil of cloves 1/4 oz
  • essence of neroli 1/2 dr
  • essence of musk 1 dr
  • orange-flower water 2 oz



Delcroix's Millefleurs et Lavande Bouquet:

  • 1 pint Spirits from grape
  • 2 oz Extract of ambergris
  • 1 oz French otto of lavender

The original "lavender aux millefleurs" is that of Delcroix; its peculiar odor is due to the French otto of lavender, which, although some folks like it, is very inferior to the English otto of lavender; hence the formula first given is far superior to that by the inventor, and has almost superseded the original preparations.

There are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender is the leading ingredient, and from which they take their name, such as lavender and ambergris, lavender and musk, lavender and maréchale, &c., all of which are composed of fine spirituous essences of lavender, with about 15 per cent. of any of the other ingredients.


Millefleurs and Lavender Toilet Water:

  • 1/2 pint Essence of lavender (Mitcham)
  • 1 pint Eau des millefleurs








Eau des Mille-Fleurs:

  • 56 centiliters rose spirits (triple)
  • 28 centiliters rose spirit (pomade)
  • 28 centiliters tuberose spirits
  • 28 centiliters jasmine spirits
  • 28 centiliters cassie spirits
  • 28 centiliters violet spirits
  • 14 centiliters cedar tincture
  • 56 centiliters vanilla tincture
  • 56 centiliters musk tincture
  • 56 centiliters ambergris tincture
  • 10 drops almond oil
  • 10 drops clove oil
  • 10 drops neroli oil
  • 28 centiliters bergamot oil
Let stand for two weeks, then filter.


Millefleurs:

  • Tincture of jasmine 8 ounces 
  • Tincture of rose 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of tuberose 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of orange flowers 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of cassle 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of orris 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
  • Tincture of musc baur 2 ounces 
  • Oil of bergamot 1/4  ounce 
  • Oil of lavender 1 dram 
  • Oil of rose geranium 1 dram 
  • Oil of neroli petale 5 minims 
Mix and filter if necessary.



Bouquet de Millefleurs 
  • Oil of bergamot 
  • Oil of sassafras 
  • Oil of cloves 
  • Otto of rose 
  • Lavender water 
  • Cassie extrait 
  • Jasmine extrait 
  • Orange flower water 
  • Spirit 
 Millefleurs and Lavender 
  • Oil of lavender 
  • Essence of ambergris 
  • Millefleurs recipe above


Eau de Mille Fleurs:

0.5 liters of acacia, cedar, jasmine, "Neroli", "Patchouli", vanilla and "Vetiver" essences each, 0.2 liters of musk and civet essence, 15 groszy each. lemon and orange oil (from the peel), 25 gr. geranium and lavender oil.

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Palatine Paste for the Complexion

Take 8 ounces of soft-soap, of olive oil,  and spirits of wine, each 4 ounces, 1 ounce of lemon-juice, sufficient silver-sand to form into a thick paste,  and any perfume that is grateful to the person.

Boil the oil and soap together in a pipkin, and then gradually  stir in the sand and lemon-juice. When nearly cool add  the spirit of wine, and lastly the perfume. Make into  a paste with the hands, and place in jars or pots for  use.  

This paste is used instead of soap, and is a valuable  addition to the toilette, as it preserves the skin from  chapping, and renders it smooth and soft.

Saturday, July 11, 2015

Olla Podrida

This is a similar preparation to pot pourri. No regular form can be given for it, as it is generally made, or "knocked up," with the refuse and spent materials derived from other processes in the manufacture of perfumery; such as the spent vanilla after the manufacture of tincture or extract of vanilla, or of the grain musk from the extract of musk, orris from the tincture, tonquin beans, after tincturation, &c. &c., mixed up with rose-leaves, lavender, or any odoriferous herbs.

Monday, July 6, 2015

Huntsman's Nosegay

Huntsman's Nosegay #1:
  • Musk Tincture 1/2 dr 
  • Citronella Oil 1/2 dr 
  • Cassie 1 oz 15 dr 
  • Orange Oil 2 oz 
  • Tonka Bean Tincture 4 oz 
  • Rose 8 oz

Huntsman's Nosegay #2:
  • Essence of rose triple 1 pint 
  • Extract of cassie 6 fl oz 
  • Extract of orange flower 6 fl oz 
  • Tincture of musk 150 grains 
  • Tincture of tonka 1 pint 
  • Oil of citronella 150 grains 
  • Alcohol 3 qts 

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Esprit de Bergamot

Take:
  • 5 Imperial fluid drachms oil of bergamot (finest, recent)
  • 1/2 fluid drachm oil of rose-geranium 
  • 1/2 fluid drachm oil of verbena
  • 2 fluid drachm essence of ambergris
  • 1 fluid drachms; essence of musk
  • 1 pint rectified spirit

Mix. Very fine.

For a second quality (usually called best),
1 quart of spirit (70 per cent.) is used; for a third quality, 3 to 4 pints at proof.