Various Chypre Formulas

Top notes: petitgrain, orange bigarade, bergamot, limetta, neroli petale

Middle notes: rosemary, orris, rose, tuberose, cassie, hyacinth, geranium

Base notes: ambergris, musk, tonka bean, vanilla, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, ambergris, vetiver, storax, sandalwood, civet

Chypre:

• Oil of rosemary 1,080 grains 
• Oil of finest orange bigarade 2,160 grains 
• Oil of petitgrain 1,260  grains 
• Oil of bergamot 340 grains 
• Oil of limetta 2,250 grains 
• Oil of neroli petale 450  grains 
• Alcohol deodorised 35 pints
• Distilled water 20 pints

 Digest the oils with the alcohol for four or five days then add the distilled water.

Bouquet de Chypre

• 1 liter of ambergris essence
• 1 liter of musk essence
• 1 liter of tonka essence
• 1 liter of vanilla essence
• 1 liter of orris root essence
• 2 liter of extrait de roses triple

Chypre:

• Calamus Oil 1/4 dr 
• Patchouly Oil 1/4 dr  
• Sandal Oil 1/4 dr 
• Coumarin 1/2 dr 
• Vanillin 1/2 dr 
• Bergamot Oil 1 oz
• Zibethin 10 solution 1 1/4 oz
• Castor Tincture 1 1/2 oz
• Musk Tincture 2 1/2 oz
• Cassie l 1/2 oz 
• Jasmine 4 oz
• Rose 4 oz
• Tuberose 6 oz

Bouquet de Chypre 

• Musk, ambrene, 100% 1 dram 
• Tincture of musk 8 oz 
• Tincture of tonka 1 qt 
• Tincture of vanilla 1 qt 
• Tincture of orris root 1 qt 
• Essence of rose triple 2 qts 
• Tincture oak moss 8 oz 
• Resinoid labdanum (Roure) 1 oz 
• Coumarin 4 drams 
• Alcohol, to make 8 qts 

Eau de Chipre:

• 1 gallon of Spirit of Jasmine infuse in it:
• 1/2 ounce of Florentine Orris grossly powdered 
• 1/4 ounce ounce of bruised Angelica-seeds
• 3 scraped Nutmegs 
• 3 ounces of White Musk-roses bruised
• 1 drachm of Spirit of Orange
• 15 drops of Essence of Ambergris 

If it is not the season for Roses, when you make this Water, put  instead of them a pint of Rose-water scented with Musk, and if that cannot be procured, use common Rose-water; draw  off the Spirit in a water bath, and in a stream like a thread; taking care to place the receiver in cold water, that the Spirit may cool as safely as possible and thereby the better preserve its perfume.

Extrait de Chypre (Cypress Bouquet):

• 1 pint Extract of rose 
• 1 pint Tincture of orris 
• 1/2 pint Tincture of Tonquin 
• 1/2 pint Tincture of vanilla  
• 1/4 pint Tincture of musk 
• 1/4 pint Tincture of ambergris
• 1/2 pint rosewater, double strength

Chypre:

• bergamot
• bourbon geranium
• orris
• patchouli
• coumarin
• oakmoss
• hyacinthine
• musk
• vanilla

Chene Royal (Königs-Eiche):

• 5000g Infusion Eichenmoos
• 1000g Infusion orange
• 3000g Infusion Jasmine
• 20g Coumarin (Haarman & Reimer)
• 200g Infusion Storax
• 15g Orgeol (Haarman & Reimer)
• 5g Petitgrainol
• 20g Linalool

German Chypre:

3750g cassie tincture

3750 musk extract

2500 verbena extract

40g Safranol

40g sandalwood oil

20g musk tincture

CHYPRE 

• Oil of rosemary 
• Oil of bitter orange 
• Oil of petitgrain 
• Oil of bergamot 
• Oil of limette
• Oil of neroli 
• Cologne spirit 

Mix and after four days add 10 oz of distilled water. Allow to remain at rest for a fortnight and filter. 

Extrait de Chypre, superieur:

infusion de chypre 4 litres

infusion a la marechale 2 litres

extrait de tuberose 2 liters

extrait d'orange 1 liters

extrait de jasmine 1 liters

extrait de roses 1 liters

Infusion de Chypre composee:

extrait de fleurs d'oranger  3 liters

extrait de roses  3 liters

extrait de jasmin 3  liters

extrait de tuberose  3 liters

extrait de cassie 1  liters

poudre de Chypre 1 kilogram

Various Ambergris Formulas

Top notes: orange blossom, reseda

MIddle notes: rose, orris, jasmine, geranium

Base notes: ambergris, civet, musk, vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin, styrax, patchouli, ambrette, tolu balsam

Essence of Ambergris:

Take:

• 1/4 ounce Ambergris
• 1/4 ounce Sugar Candy
• 1/2 drachm  Musk
• 2 grains Civet

Rub them together, and put the mixture into a Phial : pour upon it a quarter of a pint of tartarifed Spirit of Wine, tightly stopper the Phial, which set in a gentle sand heat for four or five days, and then decant the clear Tincture for use. This makes the best of perfumes; the least touch of it leaves its scent upon any thing a great time; and in constitutions where such sweets are not offensive to the head, nothing can be a more immediate Cordial.

Huile a l'Ambre:

Oil of Ambergris; Huile d'Ambergris, or Huile a` l'Ambre Parfum. 

Take:

• 4 to 6 drachms finest ambergris
• 1 pint oil (almond, olive, or ben "moringa")

Proceed by infusion.A second quality is made by working the residuum with 1/2 pint of fresh oil.


Concentrated Tincture of Ambergris:

Essence of Ambergris; or Concentrated Tincture of Ambergris. 

Take:

• 10 drachms 95 per cent, ambergris 
• 1 pint rectified spirit

Put them into a strong bottle or tin can, secure the mouth perfectly and very firmly, and keep the vessel in a room exposed to the heat of the sun, or equally warm, for a month or two, observing to briskly agitate it daily during the whole time. Lastly, after repose, decant the clear portion, and, if necessary, filter it rapidly through soft blotting paper. 

Very fine. It forms the strongest and finest simple essence of ambergris of the Paris houses,  The common practice in making the essence is to cut the ambergris up small before digesting it; but a much better plan is to rub down both the ambergris and musk with a little powdered glass, clean silicious sand, or dry lump-sugar, observing afterwards to rinse the mortar out well two or three times, with portions of the spirit, so that nothing may be lost.

 A second quality may be made by employing half the quantity of ambergris to the same amount of spirit.

Essence of Ambergris:

• 10 drachms Ambergris
• 3 drachms grain musk (Tonquin or Chinese pure)
• 1 quart rectified spirit

Proceed as in the last receipt. The products of the above two receipts form a delightful perfume highly esteemed in the fashionable world. A very small quantity of any one of them added to eau de Cologne, lavender-water, tooth-powder, hair-powder, pomades, wash-balls, etc., communicates a delicious fragrance. 

A few drops added to sweet-scented spirits, liqueurs, wines, etc., improve their flavor and aroma. 1 or 11/2 fluid drachms added to a hogshead of claret, imparts a flavor and bouquet to the wine which is regarded by many as delicious.

Extrait d'Ambre:

• 1/2 pint Esprit de rose triple
• 1 pint Extract of ambergris
• 1/4 pint Essence of musk
• 2 oz Extract of vanilla

This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well perfumed with it, will still retain an odor even after it has been washed.

The fact is, that both musk and ambergris contain a substance which clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and not being soluble in weak alkaline lyes, is still found upon the material after passing through the lavatory ordeal.

Powdered ambergris is used in the manufacture of cassolettes—little ivory or bone boxes perforated—which are made to contain a paste of strong-smelling substances, to carry in the pocket or reticule; also in the making of peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, used for perfuming writing paper and envelopes, and which will be described hereafter.


Tincture of Ambergris.

Powder thoroughly 1 ounce ambergris and 1/2 ounce sugar in a warm mortar; then dissolve 1/2 ounce carbonate of potash in 14 ounces alcoholate of roses, and add to it 31/2 ounces tincture of musk; macerate the whole for about 1 month, and filter.


Eau d'Ambre Royale:

Rectified spirit 2 lbs., tincture of musk seed 1 lb., essence of ambergris 1 oz., tincture of musk 1 oz., reduced with a proper proportion of orange-flower water.


Ambre Royal:

• Musk 3/8 dr 
• Patchouly Oil 3/8 dr 
• Resedageraniol 3/4 dr 
• Vanillin 1 1/4 dr 
• Ambergris 1 1/2 dr  
• Benzyl Acetate 6 1/2 dr  
• Styrax Solution 9 1/4 dr 
• Benzoin Solution 12 dr
• Ambergris Tincture 2 oz 
• Vanillin Solution 2 oz
• Musk Solution 2 oz
• Jasmine 4 oz
• Rose 4 oz 

L'Eau de Ambre Royale:

Take:

• 1 drachm essence of ambergris 
• 1 drachm essence of musk 
• 2 1/2 fluid ounces eau d'Ambrette 
• 2 1/2 fluid ounces eau de fleurs d'oranges
• 5 fluid ounces rectified spirit

Mix. Very agreeable and durable.

Extrait Ambre or Eau Ambree:

• tincture of ambergris  30 gr
• tincture of musk 15 gr
• esprit d'Ambrette 1 litre
• eau de fleurs d'oranges 250 gr
• alcohol at 90% 1 litre

Extrait d'Ambre:

• Rose extrait 
• Essence of ambergris 
• Essence of musk 
• Essence of vanilla 
• Rose water 

Mix

BOUQUET d AMBRE 

• Ambergris 2.5 grams
• Oil of rose 2.5 grams
• Vanillin 0.5 grams
• Essence of jasmin 250.0 grams
• Musk 0.1 grams
• Oil of orris 5 drops
• Coumarin 0.25 grams
• Alcohol 750.0 grams

Extrait d'Ambre:

a) 3 liters of ambergris essence, 0.75 liters of musk essence, 25 gr. rose oil, 0.4 liters of vanilla essence, 1.5 liters of alcohol.

b) 21. Esprit de Roses triple, 4 liters of ambergris essence, 1 liter of musk essence, 0.5 liters of vanilla essence.

Extrait d'Ambre:

• alcohol at 85% 1 litre
• tincture of ambrette 500 gr
• tincture of ambergris 50 gr
• tincture of tolu balsam 10 gr
• tincture of vanilla 12 gr

Extrait Artificial d'Ambre:

• alcohol at 90% 1 litre
• essence of ambrette 10 gr
• piperonal 5 gr
• ambrene synthetic 25 gr