Various Ambergris Formulas

Ambres: A Synthetic Interpretation of Ambergris

"Ambres," or synthetic ambergris, are fixative compounds used in perfumery to enhance the longevity and depth of a fragrance. These formulations, available in solid, semi-solid, or liquid forms, mimic the olfactory properties of natural ambergris, a rare and highly valued material traditionally sourced from sperm whales. The compositions of ambres vary slightly depending on their source of manufacture but are universally recognized for their remarkable fixative power.

• Top notes: orange blossom, resedageraniol, benzyl acetate, clary sage oil
• Middle notes: rose otto, orris, jasmine  absolute, piperonal, amyl benzoate 
• Base notes: ambergris, civet, musk ketone, vanillin, coumarin, Siam benzoin, styrax, patchouli oil, musk ambrette, tolu balsam, Ambreine, labdanum, balsam of Peru, storax, castoreum, oakmoss resin 

Composition and Characteristics

Synthetic ambres are rich, complex blends of natural and synthetic ingredients designed to recreate the warm, musky, and resinous aroma of ambergris. They often include:

• Animalic Notes: Ingredients like musk, civet, and castoreum provide an intense, animalic richness that mirrors the depth of natural ambergris.

• Labdanum: A resin derived from the rockrose plant, labdanum adds a balsamic and leathery undertone, forming the backbone of the amber accord.

• Vanillin: This sweet, creamy aromatic note softens and rounds the blend, imparting a warm and comforting quality.

• Resins and Balsams: Siam benzoin, tolu balsam, and oakmoss resin enhance the earthy, resinous facets, contributing to the composition's depth and persistence.

• Floral and Herbal Accents: Jasmine absolute, rose otto, clary sage oil, and patchouli oil add complexity, balancing the heavier animalic and resinous notes with a touch of elegance.

A Typical Formula for Solid Ambres

The preparation of a solid amber blend involves:

• Powdering the Solid Ingredients: Components like labdanum, vanillin, musk ketone, and oakmoss resin are finely powdered.
• Incorporating the Liquids: Oils such as clary sage, jasmine absolute, and patchouli are gradually worked into the powdered mixture.
• Forming a Paste: The mixture is blended until it achieves a cohesive, paste-like consistency.
• Shaping and Finishing: For a product resembling natural ambergris, powdered xylene musk is added to create a stiff mass, which is then broken into pieces and dusted with additional powder, such as vanillin or xylene musk, for a refined finish.

Applications and Appeal

Synthetic ambres serve as potent fixatives, anchoring the volatile top notes of a fragrance and extending its wear. They are particularly prized in oriental, woody, and floral compositions, where their warm, resinous, and slightly animalic qualities enhance the overall complexity and allure of the scent.

The versatility of ambres makes them indispensable in modern perfumery, where the ethical and sustainable sourcing of natural ingredients is a growing concern. By replicating the luxurious character of natural ambergris, synthetic ambres provide an accessible and consistent alternative that remains true to the art of fragrance creation.

 

Essence of Ambergris:

Take:

• 1/4 ounce Ambergris
• 1/4 ounce Sugar Candy
• 1/2 drachm  Musk
• 2 grains Civet

Rub them together, and put the mixture into a Phial : pour upon it a quarter of a pint of tartarifed Spirit of Wine, tightly stopper the Phial, which set in a gentle sand heat for four or five days, and then decant the clear Tincture for use. This makes the best of perfumes; the least touch of it leaves its scent upon any thing a great time; and in constitutions where such sweets are not offensive to the head, nothing can be a more immediate Cordial.

Huile a l'Ambre:

Oil of Ambergris; Huile d'Ambergris, or Huile a` l'Ambre Parfum. 

Take:

• 4 to 6 drachms finest ambergris
• 1 pint oil (almond, olive, or ben "moringa")

Proceed by infusion.A second quality is made by working the residuum with 1/2 pint of fresh oil.


Concentrated Tincture of Ambergris:

Essence of Ambergris; or Concentrated Tincture of Ambergris. 

Take:

• 10 drachms 95 per cent, ambergris 
• 1 pint rectified spirit

Put them into a strong bottle or tin can, secure the mouth perfectly and very firmly, and keep the vessel in a room exposed to the heat of the sun, or equally warm, for a month or two, observing to briskly agitate it daily during the whole time. Lastly, after repose, decant the clear portion, and, if necessary, filter it rapidly through soft blotting paper. 

Very fine. It forms the strongest and finest simple essence of ambergris of the Paris houses,  The common practice in making the essence is to cut the ambergris up small before digesting it; but a much better plan is to rub down both the ambergris and musk with a little powdered glass, clean silicious sand, or dry lump-sugar, observing afterwards to rinse the mortar out well two or three times, with portions of the spirit, so that nothing may be lost.

 A second quality may be made by employing half the quantity of ambergris to the same amount of spirit.

Essence of Ambergris:

• 10 drachms Ambergris
• 3 drachms grain musk (Tonquin or Chinese pure)
• 1 quart rectified spirit

Proceed as in the last receipt. The products of the above two receipts form a delightful perfume highly esteemed in the fashionable world. A very small quantity of any one of them added to eau de Cologne, lavender-water, tooth-powder, hair-powder, pomades, wash-balls, etc., communicates a delicious fragrance. 

A few drops added to sweet-scented spirits, liqueurs, wines, etc., improve their flavor and aroma. 1 or 11/2 fluid drachms added to a hogshead of claret, imparts a flavor and bouquet to the wine which is regarded by many as delicious.

Extrait d'Ambre:

• 1/2 pint Esprit de rose triple
• 1 pint Extract of ambergris
• 1/4 pint Essence of musk
• 2 oz Extract of vanilla

This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well perfumed with it, will still retain an odor even after it has been washed.

The fact is, that both musk and ambergris contain a substance which clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and not being soluble in weak alkaline lyes, is still found upon the material after passing through the lavatory ordeal.

Powdered ambergris is used in the manufacture of cassolettes—little ivory or bone boxes perforated—which are made to contain a paste of strong-smelling substances, to carry in the pocket or reticule; also in the making of peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, used for perfuming writing paper and envelopes, and which will be described hereafter.


Tincture of Ambergris.

Powder thoroughly 1 ounce ambergris and 1/2 ounce sugar in a warm mortar; then dissolve 1/2 ounce carbonate of potash in 14 ounces alcoholate of roses, and add to it 31/2 ounces tincture of musk; macerate the whole for about 1 month, and filter.


Eau d'Ambre Royale:

Rectified spirit 2 lbs., tincture of musk seed 1 lb., essence of ambergris 1 oz., tincture of musk 1 oz., reduced with a proper proportion of orange-flower water.


Ambre Royal:

• Musk 3/8 dr 
• Patchouly Oil 3/8 dr 
• Resedageraniol 3/4 dr 
• Vanillin 1 1/4 dr 
• Ambergris 1 1/2 dr  
• Benzyl Acetate 6 1/2 dr  
• Styrax Solution 9 1/4 dr 
• Benzoin Solution 12 dr
• Ambergris Tincture 2 oz 
• Vanillin Solution 2 oz
• Musk Solution 2 oz
• Jasmine 4 oz
• Rose 4 oz 

L'Eau de Ambre Royale:

Take:

• 1 drachm essence of ambergris 
• 1 drachm essence of musk 
• 2 1/2 fluid ounces eau d'Ambrette 
• 2 1/2 fluid ounces eau de fleurs d'oranges
• 5 fluid ounces rectified spirit

Mix. Very agreeable and durable.

Extrait Ambre or Eau Ambree:

• tincture of ambergris  30 gr
• tincture of musk 15 gr
• esprit d'Ambrette 1 litre
• eau de fleurs d'oranges 250 gr
• alcohol at 90% 1 litre

Extrait d'Ambre:

• Rose extrait 
• Essence of ambergris 
• Essence of musk 
• Essence of vanilla 
• Rose water 

Mix

BOUQUET d AMBRE 

• Ambergris 2.5 grams
• Oil of rose 2.5 grams
• Vanillin 0.5 grams
• Essence of jasmin 250.0 grams
• Musk 0.1 grams
• Oil of orris 5 drops
• Coumarin 0.25 grams
• Alcohol 750.0 grams

Extrait d'Ambre:

a) 3 liters of ambergris essence, 0.75 liters of musk essence, 25 gr. rose oil, 0.4 liters of vanilla essence, 1.5 liters of alcohol.

b) 21. Esprit de Roses triple, 4 liters of ambergris essence, 1 liter of musk essence, 0.5 liters of vanilla essence.

Extrait d'Ambre:

• alcohol at 85% 1 litre
• tincture of ambrette 500 gr
• tincture of ambergris 50 gr
• tincture of tolu balsam 10 gr
• tincture of vanilla 12 gr

Extrait Artificial d'Ambre:

• alcohol at 90% 1 litre
• essence of ambrette 10 gr
• piperonal 5 gr
• ambrene synthetic 25 gr