Various Narcissus Formulas

also known as Extrait de Narcisse.

Basic formula:

Top notes: jonquil, narcissus, cassie, neroli

Middle notes: tuberose, orange blossom, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang

Base notes: orris, storax, vanilla, civet, almond, clove

Narcissus #1:

• 2 qts extract of jonquille, made from pomade
• 2 qts extract of tuberose, made from pomade
• 1 oz tincture of storax
• 3 oz Narcissus (synthetic by Verley)

Narcissus #2:

• 3 qts extract of jonquille, made from pomade
• 1 qt extract of orange flower, made from pomade
• 2 qts extract of tuberose, made from pomade
• 1/2 pint tincture of vanilla

Extract of Narcissus:

• 1 pint extract of jasmine
• 1 pint extract of cassie
• 1/2 pint extract of rose
• 1/2 pint tincture of orris
• 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
• 1/4 pint tincture of civet
• 1 dram oil of almonds
• 8 oz orange flower water, triple

Narcissus 

• Caryophyllin 10 minims 
• Extract of tuberose 16 ounces 
• Extract of jasmine 4 ounces 
• Oil of neroli 20 minims 
• Oil of ylang ylang 20 minims 
• Oil of clove 5 minims 
• Glycerine 30 minims 

Various Lily of the Valley or Muguet Formulas

Lily of the valley or muguet as natural perfume is by petroleum ether and is sold in the form of concrete and absolute. An artificial accurate facsimile is composed of hydroxycitronellal base with linalol, terpineol, nerol methyl acetophenone, and jasmin natural. 

• Top notes: hydroxycitronellal, linalol, terpineol, nerol methyl acetophenone, neroli, bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, orris, tuberose, acacia, orange blossom, ylang ylang
• Base notes: tonka bean, bitter almond, vanilla, castoreum, musk, civet, sandalwood, benzoin, cardamom

Extrait Artificiel de Muguet:

essence artificielle de muguet 24 gr

essence artificielle de jasmin 4 gr

essence artificielle de roses 2 gr

coumarine 2.5 gr

inone 1.8 gr

Lily of the valley:

a) 100 gr. jasmine extract, 15 gr. Ylang - Ylang extract, 5 gr. mashed cardamom seed and 10 drops of iris oil, soak for 8 days and filter. The seeds of cardamom' should be carefully weighed, if its smell prevails, then a sufficient amount of jasmine extract is added to obtain a good smell.

b) 10 gr. bitter-almond oil, 200 gr. jasmine essence, 200 gr. essence of "Neroli", 400 gr. acacia essence, 800 gr. tuberose essence, 800 gr. alcohol.

 

Lily of the Valley Essence

a) 30 gr. jasmine extract, 30 gr. "Neroli" extract, 50 gr. acacia extract, 100 gr. tuberose extract, 1 drop of bitter-almond oil, 125 gr. colognes.

b) 300 gr. tuberose extract, 30 gr. jasmine extract, 50 gr. "Neroli" extract, 100 gr. vanilla extract, 150 gr. "Cassia" extract, 150 gr. rose extract, 3 drops of bitter almond oil.

Lily of the Valley Handkerchief Perfume

• Acacia essence 750 grammes
• Jasmin essence 750 grammes
• Orange flowers essence 800 grammes
• Rose flowers essence 800 grammes
• Vanilla flowers essence 1500 grammes
• Bitter almond oil 15 grammes

Lily of the Valley #2:

• Cumarin 1/2 dr
• Ylang Ylang Oil 1/2 dr
• Muguet 1 dr
• Musk Tincture 1 1/2 dr
• Terpineol 2 1/2 dr
• Linalool 5 dr
• Orange Flower 13 dr
• Jasmine 3 oz
• Rose 4 oz
• Lily of the Valley 7 1/2 oz

Lily of the Valley #3:

• Benzaldehyde 1/2 dr 
• Cassie 2 3/4 oz 
• Jasmine 2 3/4 oz
• Orange Flower 3 oz
• Rose 31 
• Vanillin Tincture 4 1 lb 49 

Lily of the Valley #4:

• Orris Oil, Concrete 1/2 dr
• Castor Tincture 7 3/4 dr 
• Ylang Ylang Oil 1 1/2 oz 
• Jasmine 14 oz

Lily of the Valley #5:

• 24 oz tuberose extract
• 12 oz orris extract
• 12 oz jasmine extract
• 32 oz spirits of wine
• 1/4 oz bergamot

Extract Lily of the Valley #6:

• 8 parts Triple Extract Tuberose 
• 1 part Triple Extract Jasmine 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Orange Flower 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Cassie  
• 4 parts Triple Extract Rose  
• 1 part Essence Ylang Ylang 
• 1/4 part Essence Almonds 
• 3 parts Extract Vanilla 
• 5 parts Cologne Spirit 

Mix.

taken from Fenner's Complete Formulary, 1888.


Lily of the Valley #7:

• 10 oz Essence of tuberose  
• 1 oz jasmine 
• 2 oz orange 
• 3 oz vanilla
• 4 oz cassie 
• 4 oz rose 
• 6 drops  almonds 

Lily of the Valley #8:

• 2 pints essence of heliotrope  
• 2 pints spring flowers 
• 1 pint rose 

Lily of the Valley #9:

• Extract of jasmine 28 oz 
• Extract of orange flower 7 oz 
• Extract of rose 14 oz 
• Extract of tuberose 7 oz 
• Alcohol 28 oz 
• Lily synthetic (Bush) 2 oz 

Lily of the Valley Extract #10:

• Extract of jasmine 3 1/2 oz 
• Extract of ylang ylang 1/2 oz
• Cardamon seed crushed 75 grains 
• Oil of orris 10 drops 
• Lily of the valley syn 1 dram 

Macerate for a week and filter. The amount of cardamon seed is to be weighed exactly; should its odor still be too pronounced, extract of jasmine should be gradually added until the right aroma is obtained.

Imitation Lily of the Valley

• 1/2 pint Extract of tubereuse
• 1 oz extract of jasmine
• 2 oz extract of fleur d'orange
• 3 oz extract of vanilla
• 1/4 pint extract of cassie
• 1/4 pint extract of rose
• 3 drops Otto of almonds

Keep this mixture together for a month, and then bottle it for sale. It is a perfume that is very much admired.

Essence of Lily of the Valley
Mix the following extracts: of tuberose 1/2 pint, of jasmin 2 oz., of orange-flower 2 oz., of vanilla 3 oz., of cassia 1/4 pint, of rose-water 1/4 pint: add 3 drops of hydrocyanic acid. Keep together for a month, then bottle.

Extract of Lily of the Valley

• 1 pint Extract of tuberose 
• 1 pint extract of jasmine 
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1/4 pint Tincture of vanilla  
• 1/4 pint tincture of benzoin 
• 1 drachm Oil of almonds 
• 8 ounces Rose-water, triple

This is also an imitation, but, as I think, an improvement on the original.



Lily of the Valley: 

• Tincture of tuberose 6 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmine 8 ounces 
• Tincture of civet 1 ounce 
• Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
• Oil of sandalwood 2 drops 
• Oil of lily of the valley (Dodge & Olcott) 10 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary. 

Lily of the Valley #1 

• Acacia essence 750 parts 
• Jasmine essence 750 parts 
• Orange flower 800 parts 
• Rose 800 parts 
• Vanilla essence 1500 parts 
• Bitter almond oil 15 parts

Lily of the Valley #2

• Oil of bitter almond 10 minims 
• Tincture of vanilla 2 ounces 
• Essence of rose 2 ounces 
• Essence of orange flower 2 ounces 
• Essence of jasmine 2 1/2 ounces 
• Essence of tuberose 2 1/2 ounces 
• Spirit of rose 2 1/2 ounces 

Lily of the Valley #3

• Extract rose 200 parts 
• Extract vanilla 200 parts 
• Extract orange 800 parts 
• Extract jasmine 600 parts 
• Extract musk tincture 150 parts 
• Neroli oil 10 parts 
• Rose oil 6 parts 
• Bitter almond oil 4 parts 
• Cassia oil 5 parts 
• Bergamot oil 6 parts 
• Tonka beans essence 150 parts 
• Linaloa oil 12 parts 
• Spirit of wine 90 percent 3,000 parts  

Toilet Rouges

Blue saucers and pink saucers contain the most beautiful tints of these colors

 

Are prepared of different shades by mixing fine carmine with talc powder, in different proportions, say, one drachm of carmine to two ounces of talc, or one of carmine to three of talc, and so on. These
rouges are sold in powder, and also in cake or china pots; for the latter the rouge is mixed with a minute portion of solution of gum tragacanth.

M. Titard prepares a great variety of rouges. In some instances the coloring-matter of the cochineal is spread upon thick paper and dried very gradually; it then assumes a beautiful green tint. This curious optical effect is also observed in "pink saucers." What is known as Chinese book rouge is evidently made in the same way, and has been imported into this country for many years.

When the bronze green cards are moistened with a piece of damp cotton wool, and applied to the lips or cheeks, the color assumes a beautiful rosy hue. Common sorts of rouge, called "theatre rouge," are made from the Brazil-wood lake; another kind is derived from the safflower (Carthamus tinctorius); from this plant also is made:

PINK SAUCERS.

The safflower is washed in water until the yellow coloring-matter is removed; the carthamine or color principle is then dissolved out by a weak solution of carbonate of soda; the coloring is then precipitated into the saucers by the addition of sulphuric acid to the solution.

Cotton wool and crepe being colored in the same way are used for the same purpose, the former being sold as Spanish wool, the latter as Crepon rouge.