Friday, May 26, 2017

Lip Salves and Rouges

Creme de Psyche - for the Lips:

Take:
  • 1 ounce White wax 
  • 1 ounce spermaceti
  • 5 ounces oil of sweet almonds

Melt together, and pour in Mecca balsam, 1 drachm; and stir until the mass congeals, then add 10 grains powdered acetate of lead.

Superior Lip Salve:

White wax, two and a half  ounces ; spermaceti, three quarters of an ounce ; oil of  almonds, four ounces. Mix well together, and apply a  little to the lips at night.

German Lip Salve:

Butter of cacao, 1/2 ounce; oil of almonds, 1/4 ounce; melt together with a gentle heat, and add 6 drops essence of lemon.

French Lip Salve:

Mix together 16 ounces lard, 2 ounces white wax, nitre and alum in fine powder, of each, 1/2 ounce; alkanet to color.

Glycerine Lip Salve:

This is prepared by adding 1/6 to 1/8 part of glycerine to any one of the above whilst in the melted state, and stirring the mixture assiduously until it begins to cool.

White Lip Salve:

Take 1/2 pound spermaceti ointment, liquify it by the heat of warm water, and stir in 1/2 drachm neroli or essence de petitgrain as before.

White Lip Salve #2:

  • 1/4 lb Almond oil
  • 1 oz Wax
  • 1 oz Spermaceti
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of almonds
  • 1/4 drachm Otto of geranium

After lip salve is poured into the pots and got cold, a red-hot iron must be held over them for a minute or so, in order that the heat radiated from the irons may melt the surface of the salve and give it an even face.


Peruvian Red Lip Salve:

Take:
  • 1/2 pound spermaceti ointment
  • 3 or 4 drachms alkanet root
Digest, at a gentle heat, until the first has acquired a rich deep red color, then pass it through a coarse strainer. "When the liquid fat has cooled a little, stir in thoroughly 3 drachms balsam of Peru. In a few minutes pour off the clear portion from the dregs (if any), and add 20 to 30 drops oil of cloves. Lastly, before it cools, pour it into the pots or boxes. The product forms the finest and most esteemed Up salve. 2 or 3 drops of essence of ambergris, or of essence royale, improve and vary it.


Rose Lip Salve:

As the above, but using only 1 1/2 drachms balsam of Peru, and replacing the oil of cloves with a few drops of attar of roses, or sufficient to give the mixture a marked odor of roses. Some makers omit the balsam altogether. If uncol-ored, it forms white rose lip salve.

Rose Lip Salve #2:

  • 1/2 lb Almond oil 
  • 2 oz Spermaceti and wax
  • 2 oz Alkanet root
  • 1/4 drachm Otto of roses
Place the wax, sperm, and oil on to the alkanet root in a vessel heated by steam or water-bath; after the materials are melted, they must digest on the alkanet to extract its color for at least four or five hours; finally, strain through fine muslin, then add the perfume just before it cools.


Common Lip Salve:

Is made simply of equal parts of lard and suet, colored with alkanet root, and perfumed with an ounce of bergamot to every pound of salve.


To Make Lip Salve:

Melt in a jar placed in a basin of boiling water a quarter of an ounce each of white wax and spermaceti, flour of benzoin fifteen grains, and half an ounce of the ]oil of almonds. Stir till the mixture is cool. Color red with alkanet root.


Pomade Rosat for the Lips:


Melt together:

  • 2 ounces white wax
  • 4 ounces oil of sweet almonds
  • 3 drachms alkanet


Digest for several hours, strain, and add 12 drops attar of rose ; used for the lips.

Thursday, May 18, 2017

Various Pinks (Carnation) Oeillet Formulas

Carnation natural occurs as pomade or occasionally concretes but these are scarce and high priced. The odour base is isoeugenol modified by eugenol, esters of eugenol, and also nerol, heliotropin, terpineol, and hydroxycitronellal with the flowery note brought out by ylang ylang oil.

Top notes: eugenol, Portugal orange, cinnamic alcohol, cassie, rose geranium, clove, nerol, pimento, Ceylon cinnamon, petitgrain, phenylethyl acetate, hydroxycitronellal
Middle notes: linalol, orange blossom, rose, carnation, tuberose, jonquil, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang, iso-eugenol, heliotropin
Base notes: terpineol, benzoic acid, vanillin, styrax, tolu balsam, musk, benzoin, patchouli, sandalwood, civet, ambergris


Extrait Artificiel d'Oeillet:
  • isoeugenol 30 gr
  • essence de roses 3.5 gr
  • phenylethyl acetate 1.2 gr
  • alcool cinnamique 0.4 gr
  • linalol 4 gr
  • alcohol phenylethylique 1.5 gr
  • vanilline 0.7 gr
  • alcohol at 90%  2 liters



Extrait d'Oeillet:
alcohol at 95% 1.5 liter
girofle anglais 250 gr
cannelle de Chine 10 gr
essence de girofle 10 gr
essence de cannelle 1 gr
essence de Portugal 10 gr
essence de geranium 10 gr
tincture de baume de tolu 10 gr



Carnation Extract #1:
  • Vanillin Tincture 2 oz 
  • Cassie 4 oz
  • Orange Flower 4 oz 
  • Rose 6 oz


Extrait Artificiel d'Oeillet (Imitation Carnation Extract) #2:
  • 28 centiliters rose spirits
  • 14 cubic centiliters orange blossom spirits
  • 14 cubic centiliters acacia spirits
  • 36 grams vanilla spirits
  • 10 drops clove oil

Imitation Carnation Extract #3:
  • 171 centiliters tuberose extract
  • 143 centiliters jonquil extract
  • 14 centiliters styrax extract
  • 14 centiliters tolu extract

Clove Pink:
  • Tincture of jasmine 16 ounces 
  • Tincture of orris 16 ounces 
  • Tincture of musc baur 8 ounces 
  • Tincture of benzoin 1 dram 
  • Oil of rose geranium 1 dram 
  • Oil of cloves 1/2 dram 
  • Oil of neroli Portugal 1 dram 
  • Oil of pimento 10 drops 
  • Oil of patchouli 10 drops 
  • Oil of sandalwood 1 dram 
  • Cologne spirits, (188%) 10 ounces 
  • Orange flower water 2 ounces 

Mix and filter. 


Imitation Essence of Clove Pink
  • 1/2 pint Esprit de rose
  • 1/4 pint esprit de fleur d'orange
  • 1/4 pint esprit de cassie
  • 2 oz Esprit de vanilla 
  • 10 drops Oil of cloves
It is remarkable how very much this mixture resembles the odor of the flower, and the public never doubt its being the "real thing."



Persian Pink:
  • Tincture of orange flowers 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of rose 8 ounces 
  • Tincture of cassie 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
  • Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 2 ounces 
  • Oil of cloves 10 drops 
  • Oil of sandalwood 5 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary.



Pinks:
  • Tincture of rose 10 ounces 
  • Tincture of orange flowers 6 ounces 
  • Tincture of cassie 4 ounces 
  • Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
  • Tincture of ambergris 1 dram 
  • Oil of cloves 5 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary.




Extrait d'Oeillet:

  • 1 pint extract of rose
  • 1 pint extract of cassie
  • 1/2 pint tincture of ambrette
  • 1/4 pint tincture of orris
  • 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
  • 2 dram oil of cloves
  • 1 dram coil of cinnamon (true)
  • 1 dram oil of petit grain
  • 1/2 pint alochol
  • 1/2 pint orange flower water, triple

Sweet Pink:

  • Tincture of rose 16 ounces 
  • Tincture of orange flowers 8 ounces 
  • Tincture of cassie 8 ounces 
  • Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
  • Tincture of civet 1/2 ounce 
  • Oil of cloves 10 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary.


Clove Pink: 

  • Oil of cloves 10 drops 
  • Tincture of orris 10 ounces 
  • Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
  • Tincture of ambrette 2 ounces 
  • Cologne spirits (188%) 6 ounces 
  • Orange flower water 5 ounces 
  • Rose water 9 ounces 

Dissolve the oil in the tinctures and cologne spirits add the waters siowiy and filter through taleum at At low temperature.


Gillyflower:

  • 1200,0 Essence of neroli
  • 1200,0 Essence of rose
  • 600,0 Essence of vanilla
  • 25 drops bitter almond oil
  • 600,0 Essence of violet root
  • 600,0 Essence of acacia


Infuse for 14 days.


Clove Pink Bouquet (Saunder's)
  • 12 oz jasmine extract
  • 12 oz orris extract
  • 8 oz musk extrect
  • 1 dra rose otto
  • 2 dr clove otto
  • 1 dr neroli otto
  • 10min pimento otto
  • 20 min patchouli otto
  • 2 dr sandalwood otto
  • 4 pts benzoic acid

CARNATION PINK 
  • Oil of cloves 
  • Cassie extrait 
  • Jasmine extrait 
  • Orange flower extrait 
  • Rose extrait 
  • Essence of civet 
  • Essence of vanilla 
  • Tincture of storax 
  • Spirit of ylang ylang 

ESSENCE OF CLOVE PINK 
  • Rose extrait 
  • Orange flower extrait 
  • Essence of vanilla 
  • Oil of cloves 
Mix and after standing for several days filter 

Saturday, May 6, 2017

Hoyt's German Cologne

Hoyt's German Cologne


The following formula has been as similar to Hoyt's German Cologne
  • 1 ounce Oil Bergamot 
  • 1 ounce Lemon 
  • 1/4 ounce Oil Neroli  
  • 1/2 ounce Oil Santal Wood 
  • 20 grains Camphor
  • 7 pints Cologne Spirit 
  • 1 pint Rose Water 


Mix and let month then filter.