Thursday, August 14, 2014

Marechale Rose Formulas

Marechal Niel Rose:

In the genus of roses outside of the hundred leaved or rose the Marechal Niel rose  (Rosa Noisetteana Red) also called Noisette rose, and often erroneously tea, is especially conspicuous. Its fine piquant odor delights all lovers of precious perfumes. In order to reproduce the fine scent of this flower artificially at periods when it cannot be had without much expenditure the following recipes will be found useful:

Infusion a la Marechale, Composee:
extrait de fleurs d'oranger 6 liters
extrait de roses 1.5 liters
extrait de jasmin 4 liters
extrait de tuberose 3 liters
extrait de cassie 1.5 liters
poudre a la marechale 1.900 kilograms

Autre Infusion a la Marechale, composee:
extrait de fleurs d'oranger 3 liters
extrait de roses 2.5 liters
extrait de jasmin 2 liters
extrait de tuberose 1.5 liters
extrait de cassie 1.5 liters
poudre a la marechale 1 kilograms


BOUQUET A LA MARECHALE -
  • spirit of roses, triple 0.56 liter
  • orange blossom extract 0.56 liter
  • vetiver extract 0.28 liter of each.
  • vanilla extract 0.28 liter of each.
  • neroli extract 0.28 liter of each.
  • musk extract 0.14 liter of each.
  • ambergris extract 0.14 liter of each.
  • clove essence 0.88 gr of each
  • sandalwood essence 0.88 gram of each.
This bouquet is part of the composition of the following:

EAU DE MOUSSELINE -
  • Bouquet a la Marechale 0.56 liter
  • cassie extract 0.28 liter of each.
  • jasmine extract 0.28 liter of each.
  • tuberose extract 0.28 liter of each.
  • rose extract (four ointment) 0.28 liter of each.
  • sandalwood essence 3.54 gr.





Marechale Rose #1:

  • Infusion rose 1,000 parts 
  • Genuine rose oil 10 parts 
  • Infusion Tolu balsam 150 parts 
  • Infusion genuine musk I 40 parts 
  • Neroli oil parts 
  • Clove oil 2 parts 
  • Infusion tubereuse 1,000 parts 
  • Vanillin 1 part 
  • Coumarin 0.5 parts 

Marechale Rose #2:
  • Triple rose essence 50 grams 
  • Simple rose essence 60 grams 
  • Neroli essence 30 grams
  • Civet essence 20 grams
  • Iris essence 30 grams
  • Tonka beans essence 20 grams 
  • Rose oil 5 drops 
  • Jasmine essence 60 grams
  • Violet essence 50 grams
  • Cassia essence 50 grams
  • Vanilla essence 45 grams
  • Clove oil 20 drops 
  • Bergamot oil 10 drops 
  • Rose geranium oil 20 drops       


Marechale Bouquet:
  • Clove oil 10 ml 
  • Sandalwood oil 10 ml 
  • Musk essence 1 oz 
  • Ambergris essence 1 oz 
  • Neroli spirit 2 ozs 
  • Tonka tincture 2 ozs 
  • Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
  • Orris tincture 2 ozs 
  • Vetiver spirit 2 ozs 
  • Rose spirit 4 ozs 
  • Orange flower extrait 4 ozs 


Bouquet du Marechale:
  • 1 pint Esprit de rose triple
  • 1 pint Extrait de fleur d'orange
  • 1/2 pint Extrait de vetiver 
  • 1/2 pint Extrait de vanilla
  • 1/2 pint Extrait de orris
  • 1/2 pint Extrait de tonka bean
  • 1/2 pint Esprit de neroli
  • 1/4 pint Extract of musk
  • 1/4 pint Extract of ambergris
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of cloves
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of sandalwood

Bouquet de Marechale:

  • 1 pint extract of rose
  • 1 pint extract of orange flower
  • 1 pint tincture of vetiver
  • 1/4 pint tincture of Tonquin
  • 1/4 pint tincture of orris
  • 1 dram oil of neroli
  • 1/2 dram oil of vetiver
  • 4 oz rose water, triple


Bouquet a la Marechale:

  • Tincture of ambergris 1/2 pint 
  • Tincture of musk 1/2 pint 
  • Extract of neroli 1 pint 
  • Extract of orange flower 1 qt 
  • Tincture of tonka 1 pint 
  • Tincture of vanilla 1 pint 
  • Tincture of orris root 1 pint 
  • Essence of vetiver 1 pint 
  • Essence of rose triple 1 qt 
  • Oil of clove 75 grains 
  • Oil of santal 75 grains 


Eau de Marechale
  • Spirit of wine 1 1/2 pint
  • Spirit of jessamine 1 oz
  • Essence of bergamot 1/4 oz.
  • Essence of violets 1 oz

Eau de Marechale #2:

  • 1 ounce essence of violets
  • 1/4 ounce oil of bergamot
  • 1/4 ounce oil of cloves
  • 1/2 pint orange-flower water
  • 1 pint rectified spirit

Mix. An agreeable and favorite perfume.



Midland Counties Bouquet Perfume


  • Jasmine extrait 4 ozs 
  • Rose otto 1-1/2 drs 
  • Bergamot oil 4 drs 
  • Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
  • Musk essence 2 ozs 
  • Violet extrait 2 ozs 
  • Rectified spirit 16 ozs 


Mix all but the spirit and after standing fourteen days add the spirit and filter. 

Maids of Honor Bouquet Perfume


  • Clove oil 1-1/2 drs 
  • Nutmeg oil 1-1/2 drs 
  • Sandalwood oil 2 drs 
  • Lavender oil 1/2 oz 
  • Rose oil 1 dr 
  • Ylang ylang oil 1/2 dr 
  • Tonka bean tinct 1 oz 
  • Musk essence 1-1/2 ozs 
  • Bergamot oil 1-1/2 ozs 
  • Millefleurs 2 ozs 
  • Verbena spirit 3 ozs 
  • Spirit 4-1/2 pts 


Mix. 

Various Ylang Ylang Formulas

Ylang Ylang # 1.

  •  Ylang ylang oil 10 ml
  •  Otto rose 2 ml 
  • Neroli oil 10 ml 
  • Musk essence 1/2 oz 
  • Jasmine extrait 2 ozs 
  • Orange flower water 2 drs 
Mix.

Ylang Ylang #2.

  • Neroli oil 6 ml 
  • Lemon oil 6 ml 
  • Rose oil 15 ml 
  • Ylang ylang oil 50 ml 
  • Musk essence dr 
  • Spirit 2 pts 
Mix.


Ylang Ylang #3.


  • Niobe Oil 1/16 dr
  • Musk 1/16 dr
  • Benzaldehyde 1/16 dr
  • Cananga Oil 3/16 dr
  • Linalyl Acetate 1 1/4 dr
  • Terpineol 1 1/2 dr
  • Ylang Ylang Oil 1 5/8 dr
  • Benzoin Tincture 2 1/2 dr
  • Cassie 9 dr
  • Jonquil 3 oz
  • Orris Tincture 3 1/2 oz
  • Tuberose 3 1/2 oz
  • Jasmine 5 oz



Various Cherry Blossom Formulas

Cherry Blossom #1.
  • White heliotrope essence 6 ozs 
  • Vanilla essence 1 dr 
Mix.


Cherry Blossom #2.
  • Peach blossom essence 12 ozs 
  • Violet extrait 2 ozs 
  • Mirbane essence 2 ozs 
Mix.


Cherry Blossom Extract #3:
  • Extract jasmine 3 pts 
  • Extract tuberose 1 1/2 pts 
  • Extract cassia i8ozs 
  • Extract rose 1 2 ozs 
  • Essence rose 12 ozs 
  • Tincture coumarin 6 ozs 
  • Tincture civet 6 ozs 
  • Oil bergamot 1 oz 
  • Oil rose geranium 1 oz 
  • Oil neroli 1 dr 
  • Oil rose synthetic 1 dr 
  • Oil cardamon 1 dr 


Cherry Blossom Extract #4:
  • Ambepine 3 to 10 drops 
  • Anethol 1 drop 
  • Oil bitter almonds 15 drops 
  • Oil fennel 15 drops 
  • Oil bergamot 15 drops 
  • Oil neroli 75 drops 
  • Acetic ether 45 drops 
  • Vanillin 30 grs 
  • Coumarin 5 grs 
  • Tincture musk 6 drs 
  • Tincture Siam benzoin 2 1/2 ozs 
  • Tincture stronger orris 8 ozs 
  • Essence rose (3d washing) 15 ozs 
  • Alcohol 4 ozs 



Cherry Blossom #5:
  • White heliotrope essence 6 ozs 
  • Vanilla essence 1 dr 


Cherry Blossom #6:
  • Peach blossom essence 12 ozs 
  • Violet extract 2 ozs 
  • Mirbane essence 2 ozs 


Cherry Blossom Perfume #7:
  • Essence of peach blossom 840 
  • Essence of violet 140 
  • Essence of bitter almonds (1 to 9) 20 

Various Night Blooming Cereus Formulas

Night Blooming Cereus #1:
  • Civet essence 2 ozs 
  • Tonka bean tincture 2 ozs 
  • Benzoin tincture 4 ozs 
  • Rose spirit 4 ozs 
  • Jasmine extrait 4 ozs 
Mix.



Extract of Night Blooming Cereus
  • 1 pint extract of tuberose
  • 1 pint extract of rose
  • 1/2 pint  extract of violet
  • 1/2 pint extract of jasmine
  • 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
  • 2 oz tincture of benzoin
  • 2 oz tincture of musk
  • 1 dram oil of nutmeg
  • 1 dram oil of santal
  • 1 dram oil of neroli
  • 1/2 dram oil of almonds
  • 8 oz orange flower water


Extract Night Blooming Cereus #2:
  • 8 parts Triple Extract Rose 
  • 2 parts Triple Extract Orange Flower 
  • 2 parts Essence Neroli  
  • 2 parts  Extract Vanilla 
  • 3 parts Extract Orris  
  • 1 Part  Extract Musk 
  • 1 Part  Extract Civet 
  • 1/10 Part Essence Almond 
  • 1/20 part Tincture Benzoin 
Mix. Taken from Fenner's Complete Formulary, 1888.


Night Blooming Cereus #3:

  • Tincture of tuberose 10 ounces 
  • Tincture of rose 6 ounces 
  • Tincture of jasmine 3 ounces 
  • Tincture of violet 3 ounces 
  • Tincture of vanillin 1 1/2 ounces 
  • Tincture of coumarin 1 1/2 ounces 
  • Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 1 ounce 
  • Oil of neroli Portugal 30 minims 

Mix and filter if necessary. 

Saratoga Nosegay Perfume

 A refreshing perfume for the handkerchief resembling but excelling Mona bouquet.


  • Musk essence 4 ozs 
  • Bergamot oil 1-1/2 drs 
  • Jasmin extract 2 ozs 
  • English lavender oil 1-1/2 dr 
  • Neroli oil 4 dr 
  • Patchouli oil 5 ml 
  • Pimenta oil 5 ml 
  • Rose oil 1-1/2 drs 
  • Verbena oil 8 ml 
  • Cassia oil 5 ml 
  • Alcohol to 4 pts 


Macerate one month then filter three times. 

Victoria Regia Perfume


  • 20 oz Extract of tuberose  
  • 16 oz Extract of jasmine 
  • 4 oz Extract of neroli 
  • 4 oz Extract of rose 
  • 4 oz Extract of acacia flowers
  • 3 oz vanilla 
  • 1 oz Essence of civet 
  • 1 oz Oil of bergamot  
  • 5 drops bitter almonds 

Alpine Rose Perfume


  • 16 oz Essence Bouquet
  • 12 oz Triple extract of rose 
  • 12 oz Extract of jasmin 
  • 12 oz Extract of reseda
  • 4 oz Essence of ambergris  
  • 2 oz Essence of civet 

HMS Pinafore Bouquet Perfume


  • 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
  • 12 oz Extract of violets 
  • 8 oz Extract of neroli 
  • 1 oz Extract of musk 
  • 1/4 oz Oil of bergamot 
  • 1/8 oz Oil of citron 
  • 40 drops Oil of cardamom 
  • 20 drops Oil of melissa
  • 20 drops Oil of coriander 
  • 10 drops Oil of thyme 

Pinafore Bouquet 
  • Oil of coriander 
  • Oil of thyme 
  • Oil of melissa 
  • Oil of cardamoms 
  • Oil of citron 
  • Oil of bergamot 
  • Essence of musk 
  • Spirit of neroli 
  • Violet extrait 
  • Spirit of rose

Flowers of Love Perfume


  • 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
  • 14 oz Extract of jasmine 
  • 12 oz Extract of acacia flowers 
  • 4 oz Extract of orange flowers 
  • 4 oz Extract of tuberose 
  • 4 oz Extract of hyacinth 
  • 2 oz Extract of jonquil 
  • 2 oz Extract of vanilla 
  • 1-1/2 oz Essence of ambergris  


Rose of the East Perfume


  • 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
  • 12 oz Extract of moss rose 
  • 1/8 oz Oil of sandalwood
  • 1/8 oz Oil of rose geranium 
  • 1/16 oz Oil of ylang ylang 

Florilene Bouquet Perfume


  • 16 oz Triple extract of rose 
  • 8 oz Extract of tuberose 
  • 8 oz Extract of violets
  • 4 oz Extract of heliotrope  
  • 4 oz Extract of orange flowers 
  • 3 oz Extract of verbena
  • 2 oz Extract of musk 
  • 2 oz Essence of ambergris 
  • 1 oz Essence of bergamot  

Modjeska Bouquet Perfume


  • 16 oz Extract of jonquil 
  • 16 oz Extract of reseda 
  • 16 oz Extract of  tuberose 
  • 12 oz Extract of cassia flowers 
  • 12 oz Extract of violets 
  • 2 oz Essence of musk 
  • 1/2 oz Oil of bergamot 
  • 1/2 oz Oil of ylang ylang
  • 1/4 oz otto of rose 
  • 1/4 oz otto of lavender

Friday, July 25, 2014

Riviera Gem Perfume


  • Triple extract de mousseline 30 ozs 
  • Extract of orange flowers 15 ozs 
  • Extract of tuberose 15 ozs 
  • Extract of rose 15 ozs 
  • Extract of cassie 15 ozs 
  • Extract of jasmin 15 ozs 
  • Essence bouquet 15 ozs 
  • Tincture of ambergris 4 ozs 
  • Tincture of musk 4 ozs 


Mix together.


Harvest Queen Perfume


  • Extract of rose 24 ozs 
  • Spirits of coumarin (1/19) 24 ozs 
  • Extract of orange flowers 16 ozs 
  • Spirits of Spanish geranium 16 ozs 
  • Extract of jasmin 16 ozs 
  • Espr de rose triple 4 ozs 
  • Spirit of heliotropin (1/24) 4 ozs 
  • Spirits of vanillin (1/9) 4 ozs 
  • Tincture of musk 4 ozs 
  • Tincture of civet 4 ozs 


Mix together.

Harvest Queen was a name used by Lundborg's for one of their perfumes.


Eden Flowers Perfume

  • Extract of orange flowers 40 ozs 
  • Extract of cassie 20 ozs 
  • Extract of tuberose 20 ozs 
  • Extract of jasmin 20 ozs 
  • Espr de rose triple 10 ozs 
  • Spirits of Spanish geranium 10 ozs 
  • Tincture of ambergris 4 ozs 
  • Tincture of musk 4 ozs

Mix together.


Flowers of Eden Perfume
  • 16 oz Triple extract of night blooming cereus 
  • 14 oz Triple extract of lily of the valley 
  • 12 oz Triple extract of spring flowers 
  • 12 oz Triple extract of ylang ylang 
  • 12 oz Eau de millefleurs 
  • 2 oz Essence of musk 



May Queen Perfume


  • Extract of rose 28 ozs 
  • Extract of jasmin 28 ozs 
  • Extract of orange flowers 14 ozs 
  • Extract of cassie 14 zs 
  • Extract of tuberose 14 ozs 
  • Extract of jonquil 7 ozs 
  • Spirits of vanillin (1/15) 7 ozs 
  • Spirits of heliotropin (1/15) 7 ozs 
  • Oil of bergamot 3 ozs 
  • Tincture of ambergris 3 ozs 
  • Tincture of musk 3 ozs 


Mix together.

This was a popular fragrance made by the American perfumer Seeley's.


Fragrania Perfume


  • Extract of jasmin 48 ozs 
  • Extract of rose 24 ozs 
  • Extract of orange flowers 12 ozs 
  • Extract of violet 12 ozs 
  • Spirits of heliotropin (1/19) 12 ozs 
  • Spirits of eilacin ambre (1/19) 12 ozs 
  • Tincture of ambergris 4 ozs 
  • Tincture of musk 4 ozs 


Mix together.

This was a popular, fragrant perfume from Italy, I did find a reference to it in a newspaper article in 1879.

May Pink Perfume


  • Extract of rose 24 ozs 
  • Espr spirits de rose triple 24 ozs 
  • Exiract of orange flowers 24 ozs 
  • Extract of cassie 12 ozs 
  • Spirits of cloves (1/9) 12 ozs 
  • Tincture of vanilla pure 8 ozs 
  • Spirits of ylang yalng (1/30) 4 ozs 
  • Tincture of ambergris 4 ozs 
  • Tincture of musk 4 ozs 
Mix together.