Paints or Rouges for the Skin

Paints or rouges are the means by which the natural color of the skin may be heightened or changed. They are, however, objectionable preparations, and the use of them extends very little beyond the theatres, where they are employed to produce stage effect.

Caution against Bismuth as a Cosmetic. The continued use of bismuth-white injures the skin, and ultimately produces paralysis of its minute vessels, rendering it yellow and leather- like - an effect which, unfortunately, those who employ it generally attempt to conceal by its freer and more frequent application.

French White. This is the mineral talc, or French chalk, finely powdered and bolted. It forms the basis of the most harmless rouges. Perfume is added as may be desired.

Pearl White. Pure oxide or subnitrate of bismuth in powder. This pigment darkens in atmospheres containing sulphide of hydrogen. 1 ounce triturated with 4 ounces of orange-flower water makes liquid white for theatrical use.

Pearl Powder. Precipitated chalk finely bolted and perfumed. The French add oxides of zinc and bismuth, each 1 ounce to the pound of chalk.

Liquid Blanc for Theatrical Use:

The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to
subdue it.

Madame V----, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than
half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus:--

• Rose or orange-flower water, 1 pint.
• Oxide of bismuth, 4 oz.

Mixed by long trituration.

Perle Face Powder:

• French chalk, 1 lb.
• Oxide of bismuth, 1 oz.
• Oxide of zinc, 1 oz.

Rose Face Powder:

• Wheat starch, 7 lbs.
• Rose Pink, 1/2 drachm.
• Otto of rose, 2 drachms.
• Otto of santal, 2 drachms

Bloom Rose:

This is a preparation of carmine for the face and lips. Take a quarter of a dram of carmine and place it in a phial with half a dram of liquid ammonia; keep for a few days, occasionally shaking the mixture; then dilute with two ounces of rose-water, to which half a dram of essence of roses has been added. Draw off and keep a week or ten days, then apply with the corner of a soft handkerchief, taking care that if the color is too bright it is reduced by means of pure water.

Liquid Rouge:

Harmless—a perfect imitation of nature. For ladies who wish to use a little artificial bloom the following is recommended. A liquid rouge to produce a perfect imitation of the colors of nature is prepared as follows: Add to a pint of French brandy, half an ounce of benzoin, an ounce of red sandalwood, half an ounce of Brazil wood and the same quantity of rock alum. Cork the bottle carefully, shake it well once a day, and at the end of twelve days it will be fit for use. The cheeks are to be lightly touched with it.

Colored Collodion for the Skin:

Take:

• 1 ounce collodion
• 3 grains each pure annotto 
• 3 grains dragon's blood

Digest, with agitation, in a stoppered phial, for 24 hours; and, if necessary, decant the clear portion.

Enamel Powder, to make the skin look like Porcelain:

Take equal parts finely scraped talc or French chalk, and pearl-white; sufficient rouge or carmine to slightly tinge it; mix. Used to conceal discolorations; and, without the coloring, to whiten the skin.

Azure Paste:

Talc and ultramarine, finely bolted, equal parts, triturated with a solution of gum tragacanth into a stiff paste

Carmine Rouge:

• 4 ounces finely bolted talc
•  2 drachms carmine

Mix together with a little warm and dilute solution of gum tragacanth. For lighter shades, the proportion of carmine must be diminished. For commoner pastes, rose-pink replaces the carmine as coloring matter. It may be made into a pomade.

Celestial Water

Take:

• 1 ounce Cinnamon
• 1 ounce Nutmegs
• 1 ounce Ginger 
• 1 ounce Zedoary
• 1 ounce Galangals 
• 1 ounce White Pepper
• 6 Lemon peels, pared thin 
• 2 handfuls Damascene Grapes 
• 2 handfuls Jujubes 
• 1 handful Pith of Dwarf-Elder 
• 4 handfuls Juniper-berries perfectly ripe 
• 1 handful Fennel-Seeds 
• 1 handful Flowers of Sweet Basil 
• 1 handful St. John's-wort
• 1 handful Rosemary
• 1 handful Marjoram 
• 1 handful Pennyroyal
• 1 handful Stechas
• 1 handful Musk Roses
• 1 handful Rue 
• 1 handful Scabious
• 1 handful Centaury
• 1 handful Fumitory 
• 1 handful Agrimony
• 2 ounces Spikenard, 
• 2 ounces Aloes-Wood
• 2 ounces Grains of Paradise
• 2 ounces Calamus Aromaticus
• 2 ounces Mace
• 2 ounces Gum Olibanum 
• 2 ounces Yellow Sanders
• 2 drachms Hepatic Aloes
• 2 drachms fine Amber 
• 2 drachms Rhubarb

All these drugs being procured good in their kind, beat in a mortar those that ought to be pulverized, and put the whole, thoroughly mixed together, into a large strong glass alembic; pouring as much genuine brandy upon them as will rife at lead: three nnsers breadth above the ingredients. Then having well closed the mouth of the alembic, bury the vessel fifteen days in warm horsedung, and afterwards distill the Tincture in balneo Marise (Balneo Maraie), the water almost boiling hot. When you perceive the water in the receiver change its colour, instantly stop the process, and separate the phlegm from the spirit, by another di foliation conducted in the fame manner. The liquor thus obtained is the genuine Celestial Water.

Note, when you perceive this second water begin to lose its transparency,. and incline to a reddish colour, put it by in a strong glass bottle closely stopped, and dissolve in the residue half a pound of the best Treacle, with as much Venice Turpentine and fresh Oil of Almonds,. Place the alembic in a land heat, and urge the fire to the first degree, to have the genuine Balsamic Oil, which ought to be of the consistence of clarified Honey.

Lotion de Gowland (Do not attempt)

Take:

• 1 grains of bichloride of mercury (poison)
• 1 ounce of emulsion of bitter almonds

Mix well.

Be careful of the bichloride of mercury, because it is a poison. This is one of the best cosmetics for imparting a delicate appearance and softness to the skin, and is a useful lotion in acne, ringworm, hard and dry skin, and sun-blisterings.

Victorian Cold Cream

Take:

• 10 drachms of spermaceti
• 4 drachms of white wax
• half a pound of prepared lard
• 15 grains of subcarbonate of potash
• 4 ounces of rose-water,
• 2 ounces of spirits of wine
• ten drops of otto of roses

Proceed as above. Some persons prefer orange-flower-water instead of rose-water, in which case use the same proportions.

Cold cream is a useful local application to hard and dry parts of the skin, to abrasions and cracks. When
spread thickly upon rag, it is an excellent application to blistered surfaces or burns, or may be used to protect exposed parts from the influence of the sun.

Cologne du Roi

The following formula has been published by one of the Messrs. Farina, the originators of cologne:


Take:

• 1/4 oz Benzoin
• 1/4 oz Oil or Rosemary
• 1/2 oz Oil of Lavender 
• 9 pints Strong Alcohol

 Mix, and agitate thoroughly together, and then add successively:

• 1 oz Oil of Neroli (petits grains)
• 1 oz Oil of Lemon
• 2 oz Oil of sweet Orange (Aurantii Dulcis)
• 2 oz Oil of Limettae (Lime)
• 2 oz Oil of Bergamot,
• 2 oz Tinct. Flor. Geranii Rose (Flowers of Rose Geranium) 

Let stand for several weeks a sufficient quantity to impart the desired fragrance. Macerate for several weeks, and fill into flasks.

A.D. Circ., VIII 85. Am. Jour. Pharm., 1864 p 375. I have reduced weights and measures above.

J. Maria Farina Cologne

• 4 oz Benzoin dissolved in alcohol
• 8 oz essence of lavender
• 4 oz essence of rosemary
• 325 qts alcohol at 75° 

To this solution add succesively:

• 21 oz neroli
• 21 oz petit grain
• 21 oz cedrat
• 2 1/2 lbs essence of Portugal (probably essential oil of bitter or sweet orange peel)
• 2 1/2 lbs.lemon
• 2 1/2 lbs.  alcoholic extract of geranium

Shake several times; leave 14 days, and bottle.

Fine Aromatic Vinegar

Take:

• 1 pound of glacial acetic acid
• 2 ounces rectified spirit
• 2 1/2 ounces camphor (pure, crushed small)
• 1 1/2 drachms oil of cloves (finest)
• 1 drachm oil of rosemary
• 1/2 drachm oil of bergamot
• 1/2 drachm oil of cinnamon
• 1/2 drachm oil of lavender
• 1/2 drachm oil of pimento
• 1/2 drachm neroli (or essence de petit-grain)

 Mix (in a stoppered bottle), and agitate until the whole of the camphor is dissolved. Very fine, and highly esteemed.

Aromatic Vinegar

• 8 ounces Glacial Acetic Acid  
• 4 ounces Cologne Spirit 
• 1 ounce Camphor in small pieces 
• 45 minims Oil of Cloves  
• 30 minims Oil of Rosemary  
• 15 minims Oil of Bergamot 
• 15 minims Oil of Cinnamon 
• 15 minims Oil of Lavender 
• 15 minims Oil of Pimento 
• 15 minims Oil of Neroli 

Mix let stand until the ingredients are dissolved and filter.



Aromatic Vinegar 

This may also be made by mixing a kind of Bulk Perfume with the other ingredients instead of the essential oils:

• 8 ounces Glacial Acetic Acid 
• 2 ounces Cologne Spirit 
• 1 ounce Camphor  
• 2 ounces Bulk Perfume or Cologne as desired 

Mix dissolve and filter. To use these vinegars, a small quantity is added to a bowl of water and usually applied with a soft sponge.

Vinaigre Virginal

• Benzoin in powder 2 oz.
• rectified spirit 8 oz.
• white vinegar 2 lbs. 

Digest the benzoin in the spirit for 6 days, strain, and add the vinegar to the residue; macerate for 6 days, decant, and add to it the tincture. The next day filter. It is chiefly used as a cosmetic.

The Duchess de la Valliere's Mouth Water

Take:

• 2 ounces Cinnamon
• 6 drachms  Cloves, 
• Water Cress
• 1 1/2 ounces fresh Lemon Peel
• 1 ounce Red Rose Leaves
• 1/2 pound Scurvy Grass, 
• 3 pints Spirit of Wine

Bruise the Spices, cut the Water Cress and Scurvy Grass small, and macerate the whole in Spirit of Wine, in a bottle well corked, during twenty-four hours ; then distill to dryness in a vapour-bath, and afterwards rectify the distilled Water by repeating the fame process.

This Water strengthens the gums, prevents the scurvy, and cures asthma, or little ulcerations in the mouth.  It is used to gargle the mouth with, either by itself,  or diluted with water, as occasion may require. 

American Dentifrice

Take:

• Carbonate of magnesia……………………..4 oz
• Precipitated chalk………………………….8 oz
• Orris root (powdered)……………………..4 oz
• Cuttle fish bone (powdered)……………….3 oz
• Oil of wintergreen………………………….2 drms
• Extract of musk……………………………2 drms

Otto of Rose Soap

• 4-1/2 lbs. Curd soap (previously colored with vermilion) 
• 1 oz. Otto of rose
• 2 oz.Spirituous extract of musk 
• 1/4 oz. Otto of santal 
• 1/4 oz. Otto of geranium 

Mix the perfumes, stir them in the soap shavings, and beat together.

Honey Soap

• 100 lbs Best yellow soap
• 14 lbs. Fig soft soap 
• 1-1/2 lb. Otto of citronella

Cassolettes and Printaniers

Cassolettes and Printaniers are little ivory boxes, of various designs, perforated in order to allow the escape of the odors contained therein. The paste used for filling these "ivory palaces whereby we are made glad," is composed of equal parts of grain musk, ambergris, seeds of the vanilla-pod, otto of roses, and orris powder, with enough gum acacia, or gum tragacanth, to work the whole together into a paste. These things are now principally used for perfuming the pocket or reticule, much in the same way that ornamental silver and gold vinaigrettes are used.Cassolette: a box, or vase, with a perforated cover to emit perfumes.

AMBER CASSOLETTE-

• Black amber 2 kilos
• Rose powder 1 kilo
• Bnejoin 30 gr
• Rose essence 15 gr
• Gum tragacanth 15 gr
• Sandalwood oil a few drops.

 Materials suitable for powdering are pulverized, and a paste is formed with the liquids which is bound by gum tragacanth.

Small box most often made of precious metal, in which perfumes are burned or evaporated, and which usually has a lid pierced with openings through which smoke or steam escapes. This name is also given to the odoriferous composition intended for perfume.

Perfumed Book Markers

We have seen that leather can be impregnated with odoriferous substances, in the manufacture of peau d'Espagne; just so is card-board treated prior to being made up into book-marks. In finishing them for sale, taste alone dictates their design; some are ornamented with beads, others with embroidery.

Various Peau d'Espagne Formulas

Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish Skin, is merely highly-perfumed leather.
Take:

• 1/2 oz oil of rose
• 1/2 oz neroli
• 1/2 oz oil of santal
• 1/4 oz oil of lavender
• 1/4 oz oil of verbena
• 1/4 oz oil of bergamot
• 2 drachms oil of cloves
• 2 drachms oil of cinnamon

In this mixture, dissolve 2 ounces gum benzoin. In this steep good pieces of waste leather for a day or two, and dry it over a line.

Prepare a paste by rubbing in a mortar, 1 drachm of civet with 1 drachm of grain musk, and enough gum-tragacanth mucilage to give a proper consistence.

The leather is cut up into pieces about 4 inches square; two of these are pasted together with the above paste, placed between 2 pieces of paper, weighted or pressed until dry. It may then be enclosed in silk or satin.

It gives off its odor for years; is much used for perfuming paper, envelopes, etc.; for which purpose 1 or 2 pieces of the perfumed leather, kept in the drawer or desk containing the paper, will impart to it a fine and durable perfume.


Peau d Espagne #2:

• Birch Tar Oil 1/32 dr 
• Rose Oil 3/8 dr 
• Linalyl Acetate 3/8 dr 
• Ylang Ylang Oil 3/8 dr 
• Vanillin 3/8 dr 
• Lavender Oil 1 dr
• Zibethin Tincture 2 1/2 dr
• Tolu Tincture 7 dr
• Orange Flower 2 oz 
• Rose 4 oz
• Jasmine 9 1/4 oz

Perfumed Chaplets (Prayer Beads) and Medallions

To make Chaplets with scented beads and medallions, Take Marechal Powder, and make it into a paste with Mucilage of Gum Tragacanth and Arabic, prepared with wallflower-water. The mould into which it is put mud be rubbed with a little Essence of Jasmine, or of any other sweet-scented herb, to prevent the Paste from sticking. This Paste to colour resembles Coffee.

Sachet a la Frangipanne

Sachet a la Frangipanne:

• 3 lbs orris root powder
• 1/4 lb vetiver powder 
• 1/4 lb santal wood powder
• 1 drachm otto of neroli
• 1 drachm otto of rose
• 1 drachm otto of santal
• 1 oz ground Musk pods

The name of this sachet has been handed down to us as being derived from a Roman of the noble family of Frangipani. Mutio Frangipani was an alchemist, evidently of some repute, as we have another article called rosolis, or ros-solis, "sun-dew", an aromatic spirituous liquor, used as a stomachic, of which he is said to be the inventor, composed of wine, in which is steeped coriander, fennel, anise, and musk.


Frangipani Sachet #2:

• 3 pounds Powdered Orris 
• 1/4 pound Ground Vetiver
• 1/4 pound Ground Sandalwood
• 1/4 pound Ground Vanilla Beans
• 2 ounces Ground Tonka Beans  
• 60 minims Oil Neroli 
• 40 minims Oil Sandalwood 
• 60 minims Oil Bergamot  
• 60 minims Oil French Geranium 
• 30 minims Otto Rose 
• 1 ounce Extract Musk 
• 1/2 ounce Extract Civet 

Mix well.


Frangipani Sachet #3:

• 1 lb orris-root 
• 1 lb rose-leaves
•  1/4 lb sandalwood
• 1/4 lb Tonka beans
• 1 dram musk
• 1/4 dram civet
• 1/2 dram essence of roses

Triturate the musk, civet, and essence of roses, and mix with the other substances reduced to a powder.

Cleansing of Combs & Brushes

Nothing is better for cleansing brushes than ammonia; it does not soften the bristles, as soap and soda do. Put a teaspoonful of ammonia into a quart of water, and soak the bristles in the solution (keeping the ivory, bone, or varnished back out of the water). The brush must then be rinsed in fresh water and dried in the air, but not in the sun.

Combs should never be washed. They may be cleansed by passing a coarse thread or card between the teeth. There is also a small brush which is used for cleaning combs.

The greatest cleanliness is necessary for all articles used for dressing the hair.

If you use ammonia in your bath, avoid wetting the hair except when necessary, because ammonia fades the hair.

Lacquer for Toilet Silver

• 1 pint Methylated spirits
• 1 ounce Shellac

Put the shellac in a bottle and dissolve with the methylated spirits, cork the bottle tightly, and let it stand for 24 hours, then pour off the clear liquid.

Heat the metal slightly, and paint the solution over it with a camel's-hair brush. Any metal ornament may be lacquered in the same way.

A little of this solution may be added with good results to the powder ordinarily used to clean silverware.

How to Clean Ivory Handled Toilet Articles

Toilet articles and manicure implements which have ivory handles that may have become darkened, may be cleaned by rubbing the handles with half a lemon, which has been dipped in salt. After treating them thus, then wash in warm water, and wipe dry.