Various May Bells Formulas

The formula below was taken from Mierzinski.


May Bells #1 

• Oil bergamot parts 1.0 
• Oil rose geranium parts 1.5 
• Tincture musk parts 2 5 
• Oil linaloe parts 5.0 
• Extract jasmine parts 250.0 
• Alcohol, 80 proof,  parts 760.0 

It is understood of course that none but the best materials are to be used.


May Bells #2

• Extract orange parts 2000 
• Extract violet parts 1000
• Extract cassia parts 1000
• Tincture orris parts 50
• Tincture musk parts 20
• Oil clove parts 30
• Oil linaloe parts 60
• Oil coriander parts 20
• Oil cananga parts 10
• Oil wintergreen parts 10
• Oil mace parts parts 10
• Oil ylang ylang parts 5
• Alcohol absolute 180

In all of the above the essential oils are dissolved in the absolute alcohol and the solution added to the mixture of extracts.


Taken from Western Druggist, Volume 17, 1895.


May Bells 

• Jasmine extrait 
• Orange extrait 
• Linaloe extrait 
• Spirit of ylang ylang 
• Oil of mace 
• Tincture of orris

Almond Paste for the Skin

Take 1 ounce of bitter almonds, blanch  and pound them to a fine powder, then add 1 ounce of  barley flour, and make it into a smooth paste by the addition of a little honey.

When this paste is laid over  the skin, particularly where there are freckles, it makes  it smooth and soft.

Farina's Eau de Cologne

Take:

•  10 grains angelica-root
• 15 grains camphor
• 20 grains cassia-lignea
• 20 grains cloves
• 20 grains mace
• 20 grains nutmegs
• 20 grains wormwood tops
• 1/2 drachm calamus aromaticus
• 1/2 drachm sage
• 1/2 drachm thyme
• 1 drachm orange flowers
• 1 1/2 drachms lavender flowers 
• 3 drachms rose petals
• 3 drachms violets of each
• 1 ounce balm-mint
• 1 ounce spear-mint 
• 2 sliced lemons
• 2 sliced oranges
• 5 gallons rectified Cologne spirits

Bruise or slice the solids, and digest them in the spirit, with frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 days, then distill off 3 gallons.

To this add:

• 1 ounce oil of bergamot
• 1 ounce essential oil of jasmine
• 1 drachm oil of balm-mint
• 1 drachm oil of cedrat
• 1 drachm oil of lavender
• 1 drachm oil of lemon 
• 20 drops; pure neroli 
• 20 drops oil of anthos-seed

Agitate until solution is complete, and the next day, if necessary, filter.

This formula, many years since, was confidentially given by the celebrated original Jean Maria Farina, who lived opposite the Jülichs Platz, in Cologne, to a professional gentleman, now deceased, with a solemn assurance that it was the one used by the former in his laboratory. After keeping the secret some years, this gentleman disclosed it.

It seems unnecessarily complicated. Some of the articles, as the herbs wormwood and mint, are either useless or better omitted. The version given above differs from the original simply in being intended for only 5 gallons instead of twelve times the quantity. Dr. Cooley says he personally tried it, and found the quality of the product splendid.

Sachet a la Marechale

• 1/2 lb sandalwood powder
• 1/2 lb orris root powder
• 1/4 lb ground rose leaves
• 1/4 lb ground cloves
• 1/4 lb cassia bark
• 1/2 drachm grain musk 

Poudre a la Mareschale

Oak moss in powder 2 lbs., plain starch powder 1 lb., cloves 1 oz., calamus 2 oz., cyperus 2 oz., rotten oak-wood powder 2 oz.; mix. - Gray.

Common Aromatic Vinegar

Take:

• 1 ounce avoirdupoisof camphor
• 1 drachm oil of cloves
• 40 grains oil of cedrat
• 40 grains lavender (Mitcham)
• 20 grains oil of bergamot
• 20 grains of thyme
• 10 grains of oil of cinnamon
• 1/2 pound glacial acetic acid

Mix. Very fine.

Various Civet Formulas

Extract of Civet is prepared by rubbing in a mortar one ounce of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar material that will assist to break up or divide the civet; and then placing the whole into a gallon of rectified spirits; after macerating for a month, it is fit to strain off.

It is principally used as a "fixing" ingredient, in mixing essences of delicate odor.

The French perfumers use the extract of civet more than English manufacturers, who seem to prefer extract of musk. From a quarter of a pint to half a pint is the utmost that ought to be mixed with a gallon of any other perfume.

Essence of Civet:

Take:

• 1 ounce civet cut very small
• 1 pint rectified spirit

Proceed as for essence of ambergris or musk. Its odor is only agreeable when faint and combined with that of other substances, which it sustains and increases. It is hence seldom or never used alone.

Precious Stones and their Meanings

Precious Stones.

SOME of the precious stones and gems have been given a distinct significance by imparting a special meaning or name to them. The ancients besides considered certain months sacred to the different stones, and some people have considered this in making birthday or wedding presents. Below will be found the stones regarded as sacred to the various months, with the meaning given to each.

• January—Garnet—Constancy and Fidelity.
• February—Amethyst—Sincerity.
• March—Bloodstone—Courage.
• April—Sapphire—Repentance.
• May—Emerald—Success in love.
• June—Agate—Health and long life.
• July—Ruby—Forgetfulness of, and exemption from vexations caused by friendship and love.
• August—Sardonyx—Conjugal Fidelity.
• September—Chrysolite—Freedom from evil passions and sadness of mind.
• October—Opal—Hope and Faith.
• November—Topaz—Fidelity and Friendship.
• December—Turquoise—Prosperity.

Of the precious stones not included in the above list, the language is given below:

• Diamond—Innocence.
• Pearl—Purity.
• Cornelian—Contented mind.
• Moonstone—Protects from danger.
• Heliotrope—Causing the owner to walk invisible.

Violette du Bois Perfume

Violette du Bois #1:

Mix together:

• 1 pint Extract of violet
• 3 oz Extract of orris
• 3 oz Extract of cassie
• 3 oz Extract of rose
• 3 drops Otto of almond

Violette du Bois #2:

Mix together:

• 5 oz violet essence
• 1 oz acacia essence
• 1 oz rose essence
• 1 oz orris root extract
• 5 drops bitter almond oil

Various Rondeletia Formulas

Essence of Rondeletia Perfume:

Mix together:

• 1 gallon Spirits (brandy 60 percent.)
• 2 oz otto of lavender
• 1 oz.otto of cloves
• 3 drams. otto of rose
• 1 oz otto of bergamot
• 1/4 pt extract of musk
• 1/4 pt extract of vanilla
• 1/4 pt extract of ambergris

 The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for use. Very excellent rondeletia may also be made with whiskey.


Essence of Rondeletia:

• Essence of bergamot 1 dr
• essence of lemon 1 dr
• oil of cloves 1 dr
• otto of roses 6 drops 
• rectified spirit 1 pint

Extra Essence of Rondeletia; Extrait de Rondeletia:

Various formulae are current for this exquisite perfume, of which scarcely any produce an article approaching in excellence the proprietary one. The following is an exception: 

Take:

• 3/4 ounce oil of lavender (Mitcham)
• 5 drachms oil of cloves (finest)  
• 4 drachms oil of bergamot
• 1/2 drachm each of the finest essence of ambergris  
• 1/2 drachm musk
• 1 pint rectified spirit (strongest)

Agitate them together until completely united. Some persons add 1/2 drachm of neroli, or of oil of verbena (Indian lemon-grass), with or without 10 or 12 drops of otto of roses. Very fine.

Extrait de Rondelatia:

• 1 pint extract of cassie
• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1/2 pint tincture of ambrette
• 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
• 1/4 pint tincture of musk
• 1 oz oil of English lavender
• 1/2 oz oil of cloves
• 1/2 oz oil of bergamot
• 1/2 dram oil of rose
• 12 oz rose water, double

French Extrait de Rondeletia Perfume:

Take:

• 12 drachms avoirdupois oil of lavender (Mitcham)
• 5 drachms oil of cloves
• 4 drachms oil of bergamot
• 1 drachm oil of verbena (or neroli)
• 1/2 Imperial fluid drachm essence of ambergris 
• 1/2 Imperial fluid drachmessence of musk 
• 1 pint rectified spirit (90 per cent.)

Mix. A rich and highly esteemed perfume.

Bouquet de Rondeletia:

Mix:

• 2 ounces attar of lavender
• 1 ounce attar of cloves
• 1 ounce attar of bergamot 
• 3 drachms attar of roses
• 4 ounces tincture of musk
• 4 ounces tincture of vanilla
• 4 ounces tincture of  ambergris
• 1 gallon deodorized alcohol 

After a month's repose, filter.

Rondeletia #2:

• Clove Oil 1/4 dr 
• Lavender Oil 3/4 dr
• Rose Oil 3/4 dr
• Zibethin Tincture 3/4 dr
• Bergamot Oil 1 1/2 dr
• Linalool Oil 1 1/2 dr
• Sandal Oil 1 1/2 dr
• Geranium Oil 1 1/2 dr
• Musk Tincture 3 1/2 dr 
• Vanillin Tincture 8 dr
• Cumarin Tincture 1 1/4 oz 
• Orris Tincture 2 oz
• Jasmine 2 oz
• Rose 4 1/2 oz
• Orange Flower 5 oz

Rondeletia #3:

• Tincture of orris 10 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmine 10 ounces 
• Tincture of musk 4 ounces 
• Oil of lavender 1 dram 
• Oil of bergamot 15 minims 
• Oil of cioves 5 minims 
• Oil of rose 40 minims 

Mix and filter if necessary 

Prince Albert's Eau de Cologne

• 12 drops Oil of neroli
• 12 drops Oil of citron
• 12 drops Oil of bergamot
• 12 drops Oil of orange
• 12 drops Oil of rosemary
• 1 drachm cardamom seeds
• 1 pint spirits of wine

Let it stand for a week. 

Granulated Cold Cream

Take:
 1 ounce white wax

• 1 ounce spermaceti,
• 3 oz almond oil
• 3 oz otto of rose

Dissolve the wax and spermaceti in the almond oil, by means of heat, and when a little cool, pour the mixture into a large wedgwood mortar previously warmed, and containing about a pint of warm water. Stir briskly until the cream is well divided, add the otto, and suddenly pour the whole into a clean vessel containing 8 or 12 pints of cold water. Separate the cream by straining through muslin, and shake out as much water as possible.

To Loosen Stoppers of Toilet Bottles

Let a drop of pure oil flow round the stopper and let the bottle stand a foot or two from the fire. After a time tap the stopper smartly, but not too hard, with the handle of a hair brush. If this is not effectual, use a fresh drop of oil and repeat the process. It is almost sure to succeed.

Eau de Millefleurs

Top notes: neroli, bergamot, orange, lemon, reseda, cassie, orange blossom, lavender

Middle notes: rose, tuberose, jasmine, violet, cloves, cassia, tuberose, gardenia, geranium

Base notes: musk, benzoin, ambergris, vanilla, almond, cedar, civet, patchouli, vetiver

Eau de Millefleurs #1:

Mix together:

• 1 pt Esprit de rose, triple
• 1/2 pt esprit de rose
• 1/2 pt esprit de tuberose
• 1/2 pt esprit de jasmine
• 1/2 pt esprit de orange flower
• 1/2 pt esprit de cassia
• 1/2 pt esprit de violet
• 1/2 pt esprit de reseda (mignonette)
• 2 oz esprit de vanilla
• 2 oz esprit do ambergris
• 2 oz esprit de musk
• 10 drops otto of almonds
• 10 drops otto of neroli
• 10 drops otto of cloves
• 1 oz otto of bergamot

These ingredients are to remain together for at least a fortnight, then filtered prior to use.

Eau de Millefleurs #2:

• Acacia essence 500 grammes
• Ambra essence 250 grammes
• Cedar essence 250 grammes
• Jasmin essence 50 grammes
• Tuberose essence 250 grammes
• Violet essence 500 grammes
• Vanilla essence 500 grammes
• Rose essence 300 grammes
• Orange flowers essence 250 grammes
• Esprit de roses triple 1000 grammes
• Clove oil 2 grammes
• Neroli oil 2 grammes
• Rose oil 2 grammes
• Bitter almond oil 5 grammes
• Bergamot oil 40 grammes

Eau de Mille Fleurs #1:

• 1 pint extract of cassie
• 1 pint essence of rose
• 1 pint extract of jasmine
• 1 pint extract of neroli
• 1 pint extract of patchouli
• 1 pint extract of violet
• 6 oz tincture of musk
• 6 oz tincture of civet
• 2 oz tincture of vanilla
• 2 oz essence of vetiver
• 3/4 oz oil of geranium
• 3/4 oz oil of lavender
• 1 dram Citral
• 1 dram Musk xylene, 100%

Eau de Mille Fleurs #2:

• 1 pint extract of cassie
• 1 pint extract of jasmine
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of tuberose
• 1 pint extract of violet
• 1 quart essence of rose (simple)
• 1/2 pint tincture of vanilla
• 1/2 pint tincture ambergris
• 1/2 pint essence of cedar
• 1/2 pint tincture of musk
• 1 1/4 oz oil of bergamot
• 24 grains oil of bitter almond
• 24 grains oil of clove
• 24 grains oil of neroli

Eau de Mille Fleurs a Palmarose:

• 6 oz extract of cassie
• 3 oz essence of cedar
• 3 oz tincture of musk
• 6 oz extraft of violet
• 1 1/2 oz oil of bergamot
• 1 3/4 oil of cedar
• 1/4 oz oil of lemon
• 1/4 oz oil of lavender
• 1/4 oz oil of clove
• 1/2 oz oil of palmarosa
• 9 pints alcohol

French Bouquet de Millefleurs Perfume

Mix:

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1/2 pint extracts of tuberose
• 1/2 pint jasmin
• 1/2 pint orange-flower
• 1/2 pint cassia
• 1/2 pint and violet
• 4 ounces essence of cedar
• 2 ounces tinctures of vanilla
• 2 ounces tincture of ambergris
• 2 ounces tincture of musk
• 1/2 pint essence of rose
• 1 ounce attar of bergamot
• 10 drops attars of almonds
• 10 drops attar of neroli
• 10 drops attar of  cloves

Let the mixture stand for a week, and then filter.

Heliotrope for Perfuming Face Powder c1894

We repeat our to your query, that heliotrope as odor, is generally imparted to face powder from the various ingredients in preparing it. However, if you prepared your powder, we presume heliotrope odor may be given it by carefully working in a sufficient amount one of the following perfumes:

• 1 1/2 drams Vanilla 
• 10 drops Oil orange flower 
• 5 drops Oil cherry laurel
• 3/4 grains Musk 
• 6 drams Benzoin 
• 1 pint Alcohol 
• 1 oz Extract orange flower 
• 1 quart Extract white rose 
• 1 oz Extract benzoin 
• 1/2 pint Extract Vanilla 
• 1 oz Extract civet 
• 3 minims Oil bitter almonds 

Creme Celeste c1894

National Drug the following formula in a foreign journal:

• 80 Parts White cerate 
• 80 Parts Spermaceti 
• 600 Parts Oil of sweet almond 
• 120 Parts Glycerin 
• 120 Parts Distilled water 
• 5 Parts Borax 
• 0.03 Parts Coumarin
• 1 Part Attar of rose 
• 0.50 Parts Oil of bergamot 
• 0.50 Parts Essence of orange flower 
• 0.30 Parts Attar of ylang ylang 
• 0.10 Parts Attar of iris
• 0.30 Parts Tincture of amber 

Mix. If desired, color with alkaline dissolved in a part of the oil of almonds. 

Skin Bleaches or Whiteners c1902

• Lanolin 30 parts 
• Bitter almond oil 10 parts 
• Borax 1 part 
• Glycerine 15 parts 
• Hydrogen peroxide 15 parts 

Mix the lanolin and oil of almond, dissolve the borax in the glycerine and peroxide of hydrogen, and mix with the agitation. This preparation does by aid of the bleaching property peroxide.

For a muddy complexion, or a skin with blotched or dirty appearance, the following is commende:

• White mercurial oint 5 parts 
• White zinc ointment 5 parts 
• Lanolin 30 parts 
• Bitter almond oil 10 parts. 

Mix thoroughly then make the following solution

• Borax 2 parts 
• Glycerine 30 parts 

add ten parts of rose water and for 3 ounces of the preparation 5 drops concentrated nitric acid, and quickly it into first mixture. Any perfume be used with the preparation. Stir essential oils in the lanolin mixture.  

Petrolatum Cold Cream c1902

• Petrolatum white 7 ozs 
• Paraffin oz Lanolin 2 ozs 
• Water 3 ozs 
• Rose oil 3 drops 
• Alcohol 1 dram 

A small quantity of borax may be if desirable and the perfume may varied to suit the taste of the and his customers. 

Lady Palmerston's Bouquet

• 2 drams Oil of rose
• 7 oz Extrait violet 
• 7  1/2 oz Extrait jasmine 
• 7  1/2 oz Extrait cassia
• 4 1/2 drams Oil of bergamot 
• 1010 ml Oil of cassia
• 1010 ml Oil of sandalwood  
• 1016 ml Oil of clove
• 15 grams Ambergris 
• 13 grams Musk 
• 8 grams white sugar
• 1012 ml Peru Balsam
• 11 Imperial ounces Rectified Spirits 

Macerate fourteen days and filter.

Oxford and Cambridge Bouquet Perfume

• 11 minims Oil of lemon 
• 1 dram Oil of bergamot 
• 1 oz Tincture of storax 
• 3 oz Essence of musk 
• 3 oz Essence of patchouli 
• 4 oz Spirit of geranium 
• 5 oz Essence of vanilla 
• 5 oz Spirit of santal 
• 10 oz Spirit of rose  
• 10 oz Cassie extrait  
• 10 oz Jasmine extrait  
• 10 oz Rose extrait 
• 10 oz Tuberose extrait 
• 1 Imperial pint Violet extrait  

Mix.