THE selection and proper arrangement of colors, so that they will produce the most pleasant harmony, is one of the most desirable requisites in dress. Sir Joshua Reynolds says: "Color is the last attainment of excellence in every school of painting." The same may also be said in regard to the art of using colors in dress. Nevertheless, it is the first thing to which we should give our attention and study.
We put bright colors upon our little children; we dress our young girls in light and delicate shades; the blooming matron is justified in adopting the warm, rich hues which we see in the autumn leaf, while black and neutral tints are declared appropriate to the old.
One color should predominate in the dress; and if another is adopted, it should be in a limited quantity and only by way of contrast or harmony. Some colors may never, under any circumstances, be worn together, because they produce positive discord to the eye. If the [Pg 342]dress be blue, red should never be introduced by way of trimming, or vice versa. Red and blue, red and yellow, blue and yellow, and scarlet and crimson may never be united in the same costume. If the dress be red, green maybe introduced in a minute quantity; if blue, orange; if green, crimson. Scarlet and solferino are deadly enemies, each killing the other whenever they meet.
Two contrasting colors, such as red and green, may not be used in equal quantities in the dress, as they are both so positive in tone that they divide and distract the attention. When two colors are worn in any quantity, one must approach a neutral tint, such as gray or drab. Black may be worn with any color, though it looks best with the lighter shades of the different colors. White may also be worn with any color, though it looks best with the darker tones. Thus white and crimson, black and pink, each contrast better and have a richer effect than though the black were united with the crimson and the white with the pink. Drab, being a shade of no color between black and white, may be worn with equal effect with all.
A person of very fair, delicate complexion, should always wear the most delicate of tints, such as light blue, mauve and pea-green. A brunette requires bright colors, such as scarlet and orange, to bring out the brilliant tints in her complexion. A florid face and auburn hair call for blue.
Black hair has its color and depth enhanced by scarlet, orange or white, and will bear diamonds, pearls or lustreless gold.
Dark brown hair will bear light blue, or dark blue in a lesser quantity.
If the hair has no richness of coloring, a pale yellowish green will by reflection produce the lacking warm tint.
Light brown hair requires blue, which sets off to advantage the golden tint.
Pure golden or yellow hair needs blue, and its beauty is also increased by the addition of pearls or white flowers.
Auburn hair, if verging on the red, needs scarlet to tone it down. If of a golden red, blue, green, purple or black will bring out the richness of its tints.
Flaxen hair requires blue.
MATERIAL FOR DRESS.
The material for dress must be selected with reference to the purpose which it is to serve. No one buys a yellow satin dress for the promenade, yet a yellow satin seen by gaslight is beautiful, as an evening-dress. Neither would one buy a heavy serge of neutral tint for an opera-dress.
SIZE IN RELATION TO DRESS AND COLORS.
A small person may dress in light colors which would be simply ridiculous on a person of larger proportions. So a lady of majestic appearance should never wear white, but will be seen to the best advantage in black or dark tints. A lady of diminutive stature is dressed in bad taste when she appears in a garment with large figures, plaids or stripes. Neither should a lady of large proportions be seen in similar garments, because, united with her size, they give her a "loud" appearance. Indeed, pronounced figures and broad stripes and plaids are never in perfect taste.
Heavy, rich materials suit a tall figure, while light, full draperies should only be worn by those of slender proportions and not too short. The very short and stout must be content with meagre drapery and quiet colors.
Tall and slim persons should avoid stripes; short, chunky ones, flounces, or any horizontal trimming of the dress which, by breaking the outline from the waist to the feet, produces an effect of shortening.
HOW COLORS HARMONIZE.
Colors may form a harmony either by contrast or by analogy. When two remote shades of one color are associated, such as very light blue and a very dark blue, they harmonize by contrast, though the harmony may be neither striking nor perfect. When two colors which are similar to each other are grouped, such as orange and scarlet, crimson and orange, they harmonize by analogy. A harmony of contrast is characterized by brilliancy and decision, and a harmony of analogy by a quiet and pleasing association of colors.
When a color is chosen which is favorable to the complexion, it is well to associate with it the tints which will harmonize by analogy, as to use contrasting colors would diminish its favorable effect. When a color is used in dress, not suitable to the complexion, it should be associated with contrasting colors, as they have the power to neutralize its objectionable influence.
Decoration
Colors of similar power which contrast with each other, mutually intensify each other's brilliancy, as blue and orange, scarlet and green; but dark and light colors associated do not intensify each other to the same degree, the dark appearing darker and the light appearing [Pg 346]lighter, as dark blue and straw color. Colors which harmonize with each other by analogy, reduce each other's brilliancy to a greater or less degree, as white and yellow, blue and purple, black and brown.
The various shades of purple and lilac, dark blues and dark greens, lose much of their brilliancy by gaslight, while orange, scarlet, crimson, the light browns and light greens, gain brilliancy by a strong artificial light.
Below the reader will find a list of colors that harmonize, forming most agreeable combinations, in which are included all the latest and most fashionable shades and colors:
- Black and pink.
- Black and lilac.
- Black and scarlet.
- Black and maize.
- Black and slate color.
- Black and orange, a rich harmony.
- Black and white, a perfect harmony.
- Black and brown, a dull harmony.
- Black and drab or buff.
- Black, white or yellow and crimson.
- Black, orange, blue and scarlet.
- Black and chocolate brown.
- Black and shaded cardinal.
- Black and cardinal.
- Black, yellow, bronze and light blue.
- Black, cardinal, blue and old gold.
- Blue and brown.
- Blue and black.
- Blue and gold, a rich harmony.
- Blue and orange, a perfect harmony.
- Blue and chestnut (or chocolate).
- Blue and maize.
- Blue and straw color.
- Blue and white.
- Blue and fawn color, weak harmony.
- Blue and stone color.
- Blue and drab.
- Blue and lilac, weak harmony.
- Blue and crimson, imperfectly.
- Blue and pink, poor harmony.
- Blue and salmon color.
- Blue, scarlet and purple (or lilac).
- Blue, orange and black.
- Blue, orange and green.
- Blue, brown, crimson and gold (or yellow).
- Blue, orange, black and white.
- Blue, pink and bronze green.
- Blue, cardinal and old gold.
- Blue, yellow, chocolate-brown and gold.
- Blue, mulberry and yellow.
- Bronze and old gold.
- Bronze, pink and light blue.
- Bronze, black, blue, pink and gold.
- Bronze, cardinal and peacock blue.
- Brown, blue, green, cardinal and yellow.
- Brown, yellow, cardinal and peacock blue.
- Crimson and gold, rich harmony.
- Crimson and orange, rich harmony.
- Crimson and brown, dull harmony.
- Crimson and black, dull harmony.
- Crimson and drab.
- Crimson and maize.
- Crimson and purple.
- Cardinal and old gold.
- Cardinal, brown and black.
- Cardinal and navy blue.
- Chocolate, blue, pink and gold.
- Claret and old gold.
- Dark green, white and cardinal.
- Ecrue, bronze and peacock.
- Ecrue and light blue.
- Garnet, bronze and pink.
- Gensd'arme and cardinal.
- Gensd'arme and bronze.
- Gensd'arme and myrtle.
- Gensd'arme and old gold.
- Gensd'arme, yellow and cardinal.
- Gensd'arme, pink, cardinal and lavender.
- Green and gold, or gold color.
- Green and scarlet.
- Green and orange.
- Green and yellow.
- Green, crimson, blue and gold, or yellow.
- Green, blue and scarlet.
- Green, gold and mulberry.
- Green and cardinal.
- Lilac and white, poor.
- Lilac and gray, poor.
- Lilac and maize.
- Lilac and cherry.
- Lilac and gold, or gold color.
- Lilac and scarlet.
- Lilac and crimson.
- Lilac, scarlet and white or black.
- Lilac, gold color and crimson.
- Lilac, yellow or gold, scarlet and white.
- Light pink and garnet.
- Light drab, pine, yellow and white.
- Myrtle and old gold.
- Myrtle and bronze.
- Myrtle, red, blue and yellow.
- Myrtle, mulberry, cardinal, gold and light green.
- Mulberry and old gold.
- Mulberry and gold.
- Mulberry and bronze.
- Mulberry, bronze and gold.
- Mulberry and pearl.
- Mode, pearl and mulberry.
- Maroon, yellow, silvery gray and light green.
- Navy blue, light blue and gold.
- Navy blue, gensd'arme and pearl.
- Navy blue, maize, cardinal and yellow.
- Orange and bronze, agreeable.
- Orange and chestnut.
- Orange, lilac and crimson.
- Orange, red and green.
- Orange, purple and scarlet.
- Orange, blue, scarlet and purple.
- Orange, blue, scarlet and claret.
- Orange, blue, scarlet, white and green.
- Orange, blue and crimson.
- Pearl, light blue and peacock blue.
- Peacock blue and light gold.
- Peacock blue and old gold.
- Peacock blue and cardinal.
- Peacock blue, pearl, gold and cardinal.
- Purple and maize.
- Purple and blue.
- Purple and gold, or gold color, rich.
- Purple and orange, rich.
- Purple and black, heavy.
- Purple and white, cold.
- Purple, scarlet and gold color.
- Purple, scarlet and white.
- Purple, scarlet, blue and orange.
- Purple, scarlet, blue, yellow and black.
- Red and white, or gray.
- Red and gold, or gold color.
- Red, orange and green.
- Red, yellow or gold color and black.
- Red, gold color, black and white.
- Seal brown, gold and cardinal.
- Sapphire and bronze.
- Sapphire and old gold.
- Sapphire and cardinal.
- Sapphire and light blue.
- Sapphire and light pink.
- Sapphire and corn.
- Sapphire and garnet.
- Sapphire and mulberry.
- Shaded blue and black.
- Scarlet and blue.
- Scarlet and slate color.
- Scarlet and orange.
- Scarlet, blue and white.
- Scarlet, blue and yellow.
- Scarlet, black and white.
- Scarlet, blue, black and yellow.
- Shaded blue, shaded garnet and shaded gold.
- Shaded blue and black.
- White and cherry.
- White and crimson.
- White and brown.
- White and pink.
- White and scarlet.
- White and gold color, poor.
- Yellow and black.
- Yellow and brown.
- Yellow and red.
- Yellow and chestnut or chocolate.
- Yellow and white, poor.
- Yellow and purple, agreeable.
- Yellow and violet.
- Yellow and lilac, weak.
- Yellow and blue, cold.
- Yellow and crimson.
- Yellow, purple and crimson.
- Yellow, purple, scarlet and blue.
- Yellow, cardinal and peacock blue.
- Yellow, pink, maroon and light blue.
