Paints or rouges are the means by which the natural color of the skin may be heightened or changed. They are, however, objectionable preparations, and the use of them extends very little beyond the theatres, where they are employed to produce stage effect.
Caution against Bismuth as a Cosmetic. The continued use of bismuth-white injures the skin, and ultimately produces paralysis of its minute vessels, rendering it yellow and leather- like - an effect which, unfortunately, those who employ it generally attempt to conceal by its freer and more frequent application.
French White. This is the mineral talc, or French chalk, finely powdered and bolted. It forms the basis of the most harmless rouges. Perfume is added as may be desired.
Pearl White. Pure oxide or subnitrate of bismuth in powder. This pigment darkens in atmospheres containing sulphide of hydrogen. 1 ounce triturated with 4 ounces of orange-flower water makes liquid white for theatrical use.
Pearl Powder. Precipitated chalk finely bolted and perfumed. The French add oxides of zinc and bismuth, each 1 ounce to the pound of chalk.
Liquid Blanc for Theatrical Use:
The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to
subdue it.
Madame V----, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than
half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus:--
- Rose or orange-flower water, 1 pint.
- Oxide of bismuth, 4 oz.
Mixed by long trituration.
Perle Face Powder:
- French chalk, 1 lb.
- Oxide of bismuth, 1 oz.
- Oxide of zinc, 1 oz.
Rose Face Powder:
- Wheat starch, 7 lbs.
- Rose Pink, 1/2 drachm.
- Otto of rose, 2 drachms.
- Otto of santal, 2 drachms
Bloom Rose:
This is a preparation of carmine for the face and lips. Take a quarter of a dram of carmine and place it in a phial with half a dram of liquid ammonia; keep for a few days, occasionally shaking the mixture; then dilute with two ounces of rose-water, to which half a dram of essence of roses has been added. Draw off and keep a week or ten days, then apply with the corner of a soft handkerchief, taking care that if the color is too bright it is reduced by means of pure water.
Liquid Rouge:
Harmless—a perfect imitation of nature. For ladies who wish to use a little artificial bloom the following is recommended. A liquid rouge to produce a perfect imitation of the colors of nature is prepared as follows: Add to a pint of French brandy, half an ounce of benzoin, an ounce of red sandalwood, half an ounce of Brazil wood and the same quantity of rock alum. Cork the bottle carefully, shake it well once a day, and at the end of twelve days it will be fit for use. The cheeks are to be lightly touched with it.
Colored Collodion for the Skin:
Take:
- 1 ounce collodion
- 3 grains each pure annotto
- 3 grains dragon's blood
Digest, with agitation, in a stoppered phial, for 24 hours; and, if necessary, decant the clear portion.
Enamel Powder, to make the skin look like Porcelain:
Take equal parts finely scraped talc or French chalk, and pearl-white; sufficient rouge or carmine to slightly tinge it; mix. Used to conceal discolorations; and, without the coloring, to whiten the skin.
Azure Paste:
Talc and ultramarine, finely bolted, equal parts, triturated with a solution of gum tragacanth into a stiff paste
Carmine Rouge:
- 4 ounces finely bolted talc
- 2 drachms carmine
Mix together with a little warm and dilute solution of gum tragacanth. For lighter shades, the proportion of carmine must be diminished. For commoner pastes, rose-pink replaces the carmine as coloring matter. It may be made into a pomade.
