Thursday, August 14, 2014

To Clean a Swansdown Powder Puff

White swansdown may be washed in soap and water, after washing, shake it out, and when the down is somewhat raised, shake it before a clear fire to dry.



Balm of a Thousand Flowers


  • 1 pint Deodorized Alcohol
  • bar of fine, white soap


Shave the soap when putting it in, let stand in a warm place until dissolved, and then add the following.

  • 1 drachm Oil of Citronella
  • 1/2 drachm Oil of Neroli
  • 1/2 drachm Oil of rosemary 

Erasmus Wilson's Hair Wash

Take:

  • 1/2 oz Rectified spirit
  • 1 oz Honey water
  • 1 oz Spirit of rosemary
  • 1 oz Strong solution of ammonia
  • 1 oz Nut oil
  • 8 oz Distilled water


 Mix. This wash differs from most others of the same nature, in that it does not separate for some time.

Pomade Victoria

This highly-praised and excellent pomade is made in the following way and if so  made, will be found to give a beautiful gloss and softness to the hair:

Quarter of a-pound of honey and half-an- ounce of bees' wax simmered together for a few minutes and then strain.

Add of oil of almonds, lavender, and  thyme, half-a-drachm each.

Be sure to continue stirring  till quite cold, or the honey and wax will separate.

12th Century Hair Bleach

For whitening the hair. Catch as many bees as possible in a new pot and set it to burn, and grind with oil, and then anoint the head.

12th Century Black Hair Dye

If the woman wishes to have long and black hair, take a green lizard and, having removed its head and tail, cook it in common oil. Anoint the head with this oil. It makes the hair long and black.

12th Century Scented Hair Powder

But when she combs her hair, let her have this powder. Take some dried roses, clove, nutmeg, watercress and galangal. Let all these, powdered, be mixed with rose water. With this water let her sprinkle her hair and comb it with a comb dipped in this same water so that her hair will smell better. And let her make furrows in her hair and sprinkle on the above mentioned powder, and it will smell marvelously.

Camphor Soap


  • 28 lbs. Curd soap 
  • 1-1/4 lb. Otto of rosemary 
  • 1-1/4 lb.Otto of Camphor 


Reduce the camphor to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with the addition of an ounce or more of almond oil, then sift it. When the soap is melted and ready to turn out, add the camphor and rosemary, using the crutch for mixing.

Almond Soap

This soap, by some persons "supposed" to be made of "sweet almond oil,"
and by others to be a mystic combination of sweet and bitter almonds, is
in reality constituted thus:--


  • 100 lbs.Finest curd soap
  • 14 lbs. Finest oil soap
  • 14 lbs Finest marine soap
  • 1-1/2 lb. Otto of almonds
  • 1/4 lb. Otto of cloves
  • 1/2 lb. Otto of caraway


By the time that half the curd soap is melted, the marine soap is to be added; when this is well crutched, then add the oil soap, and finish with the remaining curd. When the whole is well melted, and just before turning it into the frame, crutch in the mixed perfume.

Some of the soap "houses" endeavored to use Mirabane or artificial essence of almonds (see ALMOND) for perfuming soap, it being far cheaper than the true otto of almonds; but the application has proved so unsatisfactory in practice, that it has been abandoned by Messrs. Gibbs, Pineau (of Paris), Gosnell, and others who used it.

Palm Soap

Cut thin two pounds of yellow soap into a double sauce-  pan, occasionally stirring it till it is melted, which will  be in a few minutes if the water is kept boiling around  it.
Then add:

  • quarter of a pound of palm oil
  • quarter of a pound of honey
  • three pennyworth of true oil of cinnamon

Let all boil together another six or eight  minutes ; pour out and stand it by till next day; it is  then fit for immediate use. If made as these directions  it will be found to be a very superior soap.

Cherry Tooth Paste

Take:

  • Otto of roses………………………10 drops
  • Oil of cassia………………………..1/2 drm
  • Oil of cloves………………………..1 drm
  • Orris root, in powder……………….4 oz
  • Cuttle fish…………………………..4 oz
  • Precipitated chalk…………………..4 oz
  • Prepared chalk, in powder…………1 pound
  • Glycerine of borax………………….A sufficiency
  • Liquid cochineal…………………….A sufficiency



 Mix well.

Areca Nut Tooth Paste

Take:


  • 8 oz Precipitated chalk
  • 4 oz Powdered areca nut
  • 2 oz White castile soap
  • 4 oz Powdered orris root
  • 1/2 oz Bole Armenian (finely levigated)
  • 2 ½ fl oz Glycerine
  • 2 ½ fl oz Rose water
  • 4 minims Otto of roses
  • 5 minims Oil of cloves
  • 5 minims Oil of pimento

12th Century Tooth Powder

The teeth are whitened thus. Take burnt white marble and burnt date pits and white natron, a red tile, salt, and pumice. From all of these make a powder in which damp wool has been wrapped in a fine linen cloth. Rub the teeth inside and out. 

Alexandra Bouquet Perfume


  • Bergamot oil 3-1/2 drs 
  • Rose geranium oil 1/2 dr 
  • Rose oil 1/2 dr 
  • Cassia oil 15 ml 
  • Spirit 1 pt 

Rose Sachet Recipes

Rose Sachet #1
  • Orris root 200 parts 
  • Rose leaves 600 parts 
  • Sandalwood 100 parts 
  • Patchouli 100 parts 
  • Rose geranium oil 3 parts 
  • Rose oil 2 parts 

Rose Sachet #2

  • 1/2 pound Powdered Orris 
  • 1 1/2 pound Ground Rose Leaves 
  • 4 ounces Ground Sandalwood 
  • 2 ounces Ground Patchouly 
  • 1/2 ounce Extract Civet  
  • 30 minims Oil French Geranium 
  • 20 minims Otto Rose  

Mix.



Rose Sachet #3:

  • 1 lb Rose hips
  • 1/2 lb powdered sandal wood
  • 1/4 oz. otto of roses



Rose Sachet #4:


  • 8 oz Powdered florentine orris root
  • 10 oz Rose leaves (air dried)
  • 20 grains of powdered Musk 
  • 2 oz Lavender flowers
  • 10 grains of Civet



Rose Scented Sachet Powder


Rose. Powdered starch 3 oz., carmine to colour, otto of roses 3 drops, orris powder 1 oz. Violet. Orris powder 4 oz., essence of bergamot 20 drops, essence of ambergris 20 drops. Poudre de Chypre. Oak-moss is macerated in clean water for a day or two, and strongly pressed in a cloth; it is then moistened with rose-water mixed with a third of orange-flower water for two days, pressed, and pulverized.

It serves as a basis for other perfumes, the power of which it is said to increase. and sandal-wood, each



Esprit de Jasmine Perfume


  • Jasmine extrait 1 pt 
  • Ambergris essence dram 
  • Neroli oil 8 ml
  • Spirit 10 ozs 


Mix. 

Incense Mixtures

Incense Mixture #1.

  • Benzoin 4 ozs 
  • Olibanum 6 ozs 
  • Myrrh 6 ozs 
  • Cascarilla tincture 1 pt 
  • Lavender oil 10 drops 
  • Bergamot oil 20 drops 
  • Clove oil 10 drops 
  • Cinnamon oil 8 drops 



Incense Mixture #2.

  • Olibanum 7 parts 
  • Benzoin 2 parts 
  • Cascarilla tincture 10 parts 


Incense Mixture #3.

  • Olibanum 4 parts 
  • Benzoin 1 part 
  • Liquid Styrax 1 part 
  • Lavender oil 1 part 

Incense Blend #4. 

Mix together:
  • 1 lb olibanum tears
  • 1 1/2 oz powdered benzoin
  • 1 oz powdered cascarilla bark
  • 1/2 oz styrax calamita


Incense Blend #5. 

Mix together:
  • 1 1/4 lb olibanum tears
  • 6 oz benzoin powder
  • 5 oz cascarilla bark powder
  • 2 oz cloves
  • 2 oz cassia

Various Heliotrope Perfumes

Heliotrope #1:
  • Heliotropin 60 parts 
  • Coumarin 3 parts 
  • Peru balsam 5 parts 
  • Vanillin 2 parts 
  • Terpineol 5 parts 
  • Alcohol deodorized 10,000 parts 
  • Water distilled 6,300 parts 


Mix the water and alcohol and dissolve the essences in the mixture.



Heliotrope #2:
  • 120,0 Essence of Vanilla
  • 60,0 Essence of Rose
  • 48,0 Essence of Neroli
  • 4,0 Essence of Amber
  • 5 drops Bitter Almond Oil
Mixed, infused for 7 days, filter.


Heliotrope Bouquet (Fleurs Solsticiales):

  • 13.5 oz cassie extract
  • 5 oz tincture of ambergris
  • 2.5 oz jasmine extract
  • 5 oz tincture of musk
  • 5 pts rose extract
  • 2.5 pints violet extract
  • 13.5 oz verbena extract
  • 2.5 pints rose essence
  • 4 oz "Heliotropine"
  • 1 dram Musk xylene, 100%


Marquez Heliotrope Extract:
  • Vanilla 6 grams
Triturate and put in 500 grams of alcohol at 85 degrees. Add 90 grams of orange blossom water and leave to macerate for two or three days. Color with cochineal tincture and filter.

Marechale Rose Formulas

Marechal Niel Rose:

In the genus of roses outside of the hundred leaved or rose the Marechal Niel rose  (Rosa Noisetteana Red) also called Noisette rose, and often erroneously tea, is especially conspicuous. Its fine piquant odor delights all lovers of precious perfumes. In order to reproduce the fine scent of this flower artificially at periods when it cannot be had without much expenditure the following recipes will be found useful:

Marechale Rose #1:

  • Infusion rose 1,000 parts 
  • Genuine rose oil 10 parts 
  • Infusion Tolu balsam 150 parts 
  • Infusion genuine musk I 40 parts 
  • Neroli oil parts 
  • Clove oil 2 parts 
  • Infusion tubereuse 1,000 parts 
  • Vanillin 1 part 
  • Coumarin 0.5 parts 

Marechale Rose #2:
  • Triple rose essence 50 grams 
  • Simple rose essence 60 grams 
  • Neroli essence 30 grams
  • Civet essence 20 grams
  • Iris essence 30 grams
  • Tonka beans essence 20 grams 
  • Rose oil 5 drops 
  • Jasmine essence 60 grams
  • Violet essence 50 grams
  • Cassia essence 50 grams
  • Vanilla essence 45 grams
  • Clove oil 20 drops 
  • Bergamot oil 10 drops 
  • Rose geranium oil 20 drops       


Marechale Bouquet:
  • Clove oil 10 ml 
  • Sandalwood oil 10 ml 
  • Musk essence 1 oz 
  • Ambergris essence 1 oz 
  • Neroli spirit 2 ozs 
  • Tonka tincture 2 ozs 
  • Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
  • Orris tincture 2 ozs 
  • Vetiver spirit 2 ozs 
  • Rose spirit 4 ozs 
  • Orange flower extrait 4 ozs 


Bouquet du Marechale:
  • 1 pint Esprit de rose triple
  • 1 pint Extrait de fleur d'orange
  • 1/2 pint Extrait de vetiver 
  • 1/2 pint Extrait de vanilla
  • 1/2 pint Extrait de orris
  • 1/2 pint Extrait de tonka bean
  • 1/2 pint Esprit de neroli
  • 1/4 pint Extract of musk
  • 1/4 pint Extract of ambergris
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of cloves
  • 1/2 drachm Otto of sandalwood

Bouquet de Marechale:

  • 1 pint extract of rose
  • 1 pint extract of orange flower
  • 1 pint tincture of vetiver
  • 1/4 pint tincture of Tonquin
  • 1/4 pint tincture of orris
  • 1 dram oil of neroli
  • 1/2 dram oil of vetiver
  • 4 oz rose water, triple


Bouquet a la Marechale:

  • Tincture of ambergris 1/2 pint 
  • Tincture of musk 1/2 pint 
  • Extract of neroli 1 pint 
  • Extract of orange flower 1 qt 
  • Tincture of tonka 1 pint 
  • Tincture of vanilla 1 pint 
  • Tincture of orris root 1 pint 
  • Essence of vetiver 1 pint 
  • Essence of rose triple 1 qt 
  • Oil of clove 75 grains 
  • Oil of santal 75 grains 


Eau de Marechale
  • Spirit of wine 1 1/2 pint
  • Spirit of jessamine 1 oz
  • Essence of bergamot 1/4 oz.
  • Essence of violets 1 oz

Eau de Marechale #2:

  • 1 ounce essence of violets
  • 1/4 ounce oil of bergamot
  • 1/4 ounce oil of cloves
  • 1/2 pint orange-flower water
  • 1 pint rectified spirit

Mix. An agreeable and favorite perfume.



Midland Counties Bouquet Perfume


  • Jasmine extrait 4 ozs 
  • Rose otto 1-1/2 drs 
  • Bergamot oil 4 drs 
  • Vanilla essence 2 ozs 
  • Musk essence 2 ozs 
  • Violet extrait 2 ozs 
  • Rectified spirit 16 ozs 


Mix all but the spirit and after standing fourteen days add the spirit and filter.