Various Rondeletia Formulas

Essence of Rondeletia Perfume:

Mix together:

• 1 gallon Spirits (brandy 60 percent.)
• 2 oz otto of lavender
• 1 oz.otto of cloves
• 3 drams. otto of rose
• 1 oz otto of bergamot
• 1/4 pt extract of musk
• 1/4 pt extract of vanilla
• 1/4 pt extract of ambergris

 The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for use. Very excellent rondeletia may also be made with whiskey.


Essence of Rondeletia:

• Essence of bergamot 1 dr
• essence of lemon 1 dr
• oil of cloves 1 dr
• otto of roses 6 drops 
• rectified spirit 1 pint

Extra Essence of Rondeletia; Extrait de Rondeletia:

Various formulae are current for this exquisite perfume, of which scarcely any produce an article approaching in excellence the proprietary one. The following is an exception: 

Take:

• 3/4 ounce oil of lavender (Mitcham)
• 5 drachms oil of cloves (finest)  
• 4 drachms oil of bergamot
• 1/2 drachm each of the finest essence of ambergris  
• 1/2 drachm musk
• 1 pint rectified spirit (strongest)

Agitate them together until completely united. Some persons add 1/2 drachm of neroli, or of oil of verbena (Indian lemon-grass), with or without 10 or 12 drops of otto of roses. Very fine.

Extrait de Rondelatia:

• 1 pint extract of cassie
• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1/2 pint tincture of ambrette
• 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
• 1/4 pint tincture of musk
• 1 oz oil of English lavender
• 1/2 oz oil of cloves
• 1/2 oz oil of bergamot
• 1/2 dram oil of rose
• 12 oz rose water, double

French Extrait de Rondeletia Perfume:

Take:

• 12 drachms avoirdupois oil of lavender (Mitcham)
• 5 drachms oil of cloves
• 4 drachms oil of bergamot
• 1 drachm oil of verbena (or neroli)
• 1/2 Imperial fluid drachm essence of ambergris 
• 1/2 Imperial fluid drachmessence of musk 
• 1 pint rectified spirit (90 per cent.)

Mix. A rich and highly esteemed perfume.

Bouquet de Rondeletia:

Mix:

• 2 ounces attar of lavender
• 1 ounce attar of cloves
• 1 ounce attar of bergamot 
• 3 drachms attar of roses
• 4 ounces tincture of musk
• 4 ounces tincture of vanilla
• 4 ounces tincture of  ambergris
• 1 gallon deodorized alcohol 

After a month's repose, filter.

Rondeletia #2:

• Clove Oil 1/4 dr 
• Lavender Oil 3/4 dr
• Rose Oil 3/4 dr
• Zibethin Tincture 3/4 dr
• Bergamot Oil 1 1/2 dr
• Linalool Oil 1 1/2 dr
• Sandal Oil 1 1/2 dr
• Geranium Oil 1 1/2 dr
• Musk Tincture 3 1/2 dr 
• Vanillin Tincture 8 dr
• Cumarin Tincture 1 1/4 oz 
• Orris Tincture 2 oz
• Jasmine 2 oz
• Rose 4 1/2 oz
• Orange Flower 5 oz

Rondeletia #3:

• Tincture of orris 10 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmine 10 ounces 
• Tincture of musk 4 ounces 
• Oil of lavender 1 dram 
• Oil of bergamot 15 minims 
• Oil of cioves 5 minims 
• Oil of rose 40 minims 

Mix and filter if necessary 

Prince Albert's Eau de Cologne

• 12 drops Oil of neroli
• 12 drops Oil of citron
• 12 drops Oil of bergamot
• 12 drops Oil of orange
• 12 drops Oil of rosemary
• 1 drachm cardamom seeds
• 1 pint spirits of wine

Let it stand for a week. 

Granulated Cold Cream

Take:
 1 ounce white wax

• 1 ounce spermaceti,
• 3 oz almond oil
• 3 oz otto of rose

Dissolve the wax and spermaceti in the almond oil, by means of heat, and when a little cool, pour the mixture into a large wedgwood mortar previously warmed, and containing about a pint of warm water. Stir briskly until the cream is well divided, add the otto, and suddenly pour the whole into a clean vessel containing 8 or 12 pints of cold water. Separate the cream by straining through muslin, and shake out as much water as possible.

To Loosen Stoppers of Toilet Bottles

Let a drop of pure oil flow round the stopper and let the bottle stand a foot or two from the fire. After a time tap the stopper smartly, but not too hard, with the handle of a hair brush. If this is not effectual, use a fresh drop of oil and repeat the process. It is almost sure to succeed.

Eau de Millefleurs

Eau de Millefleurs #1:

Mix together:

• 1 pt Esprit de rose, triple
• 1/2 pt esprit de rose
• 1/2 pt esprit de tuberose
• 1/2 pt esprit de jasmine
• 1/2 pt esprit de orange flower
• 1/2 pt esprit de cassia
• 1/2 pt esprit de violet
• 1/2 pt esprit de reseda (mignonette)
• 2 oz esprit de vanilla
• 2 oz esprit do ambergris
• 2 oz esprit de musk
• 10 drops otto of almonds
• 10 drops otto of neroli
• 10 drops otto of cloves
• 1 oz otto of bergamot

These ingredients are to remain together for at least a fortnight, then filtered prior to use.

Eau de Millefleurs #2:

• Acacia essence 500 grammes
• Ambra essence 250 grammes
• Cedar essence 250 grammes
• Jasmin essence 50 grammes
• Tuberose essence 250 grammes
• Violet essence 500 grammes
• Vanilla essence 500 grammes
• Rose essence 300 grammes
• Orange flowers essence 250 grammes
• Esprit de roses triple 1000 grammes
• Clove oil 2 grammes
• Neroli oil 2 grammes
• Rose oil 2 grammes
• Bitter almond oil 5 grammes
• Bergamot oil 40 grammes

Eau de Mille Fleurs #1:

• 1 pint extract of cassie
• 1 pint essence of rose
• 1 pint extract of jasmine
• 1 pint extract of neroli
• 1 pint extract of patchouli
• 1 pint extract of violet
• 6 oz tincture of musk
• 6 oz tincture of civet
• 2 oz tincture of vanilla
• 2 oz essence of vetiver
• 3/4 oz oil of geranium
• 3/4 oz oil of lavender
• 1 dram Citral
• 1 dram Musk xylene, 100%

Eau de Mille Fleurs #2:

• 1 pint extract of cassie
• 1 pint extract of jasmine
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of tuberose
• 1 pint extract of violet
• 1 quart essence of rose (simple)
• 1/2 pint tincture of vanilla
• 1/2 pint tincture ambergris
• 1/2 pint essence of cedar
• 1/2 pint tincture of musk
• 1 1/4 oz oil of bergamot
• 24 grains oil of bitter almond
• 24 grains oil of clove
• 24 grains oil of neroli

Eau de Mille Fleurs a Palmarose:

• 6 oz extract of cassie
• 3 oz essence of cedar
• 3 oz tincture of musk
• 6 oz extraft of violet
• 1 1/2 oz oil of bergamot
• 1 3/4 oil of cedar
• 1/4 oz oil of lemon
• 1/4 oz oil of lavender
• 1/4 oz oil of clove
• 1/2 oz oil of palmarosa
• 9 pints alcohol

French Bouquet de Millefleurs Perfume

Mix:

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1/2 pint extracts of tuberose
• 1/2 pint jasmin
• 1/2 pint orange-flower
• 1/2 pint cassia
• 1/2 pint and violet
• 4 ounces essence of cedar
• 2 ounces tinctures of vanilla
• 2 ounces tincture of ambergris
• 2 ounces tincture of musk
• 1/2 pint essence of rose
• 1 ounce attar of bergamot
• 10 drops attars of almonds
• 10 drops attar of neroli
• 10 drops attar of  cloves

Let the mixture stand for a week, and then filter.

Heliotrope for Perfuming Face Powder c1894

We repeat our to your query, that heliotrope as odor, is generally imparted to face powder from the various ingredients in preparing it. However, if you prepared your powder, we presume heliotrope odor may be given it by carefully working in a sufficient amount one of the following perfumes:

• 1 1/2 drams Vanilla 
• 10 drops Oil orange flower 
• 5 drops Oil cherry laurel
• 3/4 grains Musk 
• 6 drams Benzoin 
• 1 pint Alcohol 
• 1 oz Extract orange flower 
• 1 quart Extract white rose 
• 1 oz Extract benzoin 
• 1/2 pint Extract Vanilla 
• 1 oz Extract civet 
• 3 minims Oil bitter almonds 

Creme Celeste c1894

National Drug the following formula in a foreign journal:

• 80 Parts White cerate 
• 80 Parts Spermaceti 
• 600 Parts Oil of sweet almond 
• 120 Parts Glycerin 
• 120 Parts Distilled water 
• 5 Parts Borax 
• 0.03 Parts Coumarin
• 1 Part Attar of rose 
• 0.50 Parts Oil of bergamot 
• 0.50 Parts Essence of orange flower 
• 0.30 Parts Attar of ylang ylang 
• 0.10 Parts Attar of iris
• 0.30 Parts Tincture of amber 

Mix. If desired, color with alkaline dissolved in a part of the oil of almonds. 

Skin Bleaches or Whiteners c1902

• Lanolin 30 parts 
• Bitter almond oil 10 parts 
• Borax 1 part 
• Glycerine 15 parts 
• Hydrogen peroxide 15 parts 

Mix the lanolin and oil of almond, dissolve the borax in the glycerine and peroxide of hydrogen, and mix with the agitation. This preparation does by aid of the bleaching property peroxide.

For a muddy complexion, or a skin with blotched or dirty appearance, the following is commende:

• White mercurial oint 5 parts 
• White zinc ointment 5 parts 
• Lanolin 30 parts 
• Bitter almond oil 10 parts. 

Mix thoroughly then make the following solution

• Borax 2 parts 
• Glycerine 30 parts 

add ten parts of rose water and for 3 ounces of the preparation 5 drops concentrated nitric acid, and quickly it into first mixture. Any perfume be used with the preparation. Stir essential oils in the lanolin mixture.  

Petrolatum Cold Cream c1902

• Petrolatum white 7 ozs 
• Paraffin oz Lanolin 2 ozs 
• Water 3 ozs 
• Rose oil 3 drops 
• Alcohol 1 dram 

A small quantity of borax may be if desirable and the perfume may varied to suit the taste of the and his customers. 

Lady Palmerston's Bouquet

• 2 drams Oil of rose
• 7 oz Extrait violet 
• 7  1/2 oz Extrait jasmine 
• 7  1/2 oz Extrait cassia
• 4 1/2 drams Oil of bergamot 
• 1010 ml Oil of cassia
• 1010 ml Oil of sandalwood  
• 1016 ml Oil of clove
• 15 grams Ambergris 
• 13 grams Musk 
• 8 grams white sugar
• 1012 ml Peru Balsam
• 11 Imperial ounces Rectified Spirits 

Macerate fourteen days and filter.

Oxford and Cambridge Bouquet Perfume

• 11 minims Oil of lemon 
• 1 dram Oil of bergamot 
• 1 oz Tincture of storax 
• 3 oz Essence of musk 
• 3 oz Essence of patchouli 
• 4 oz Spirit of geranium 
• 5 oz Essence of vanilla 
• 5 oz Spirit of santal 
• 10 oz Spirit of rose  
• 10 oz Cassie extrait  
• 10 oz Jasmine extrait  
• 10 oz Rose extrait 
• 10 oz Tuberose extrait 
• 1 Imperial pint Violet extrait  

Mix. 

Royal Osbourne Bouquet c1855 and Osborne Bouquet by Rimmel c1856

Royal Osbourne Bouquet c1855

• 1/2 pint Extract of orris 
• 1/4 pint Extract of vetiver 
• 1 pint Extract of sandalwood 
• 1/2 pint Extract of rose 

Osborne Bouquet by Rimmel c1856

• 1 minim Otto of rose 
• 1 oz Essence of musk
• 2 oz Essence of ambergris 
• 3 oz Spirit of vetiver
• 5 oz Spirit of sandalwood 
• 7 oz Jasmine extrait 
• 10 oz Tincture of orris
• 10 oz Violet extrait  
• 15 oz Cassie extrait

Mix.

Osborne Bouquet 

• Otto of rose 
• Essence of musk 
• Essence of ambergris 
• Spirit of vetivert 
• Spirit of santal 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Tincture of orris 
• Violet extrait 
• Cassie extrait

Various Solid Perfume Formulas

 Frozen or Solid Perfumes with Parafinne

The solid perfumes simply consist of hard paraffine which when melted is perfumed with a corresponding quantity of any desired perfume essence and poured into moulds A few mixtures for such perfumes are here given:

In the first place, the solid perfume is merely perfumed hard paraffine. The hard paraffine is melted and perfumed at as low a temperature as possible, and for a mould, use the lids of 2 dram chip boxes.

White Rose Solid Perfume:

• 1/2 drm oil of geranium
• 1/2 drm oil of bergamot
• 5 minims of patchouli

From 1 to 5 drops to each block may be used, according to the moderation or extravagance of the manufacturer.


White rose solid perfume:

• 10 drams rose geranium oil
• 10 drams bergamot oil
• 1/2 dram patchouli oil
• 1/2 dram oil of cloves

Lavender Solid Perfume:

• 2 oz oil of lavender
• 1 oz essence of bergamot
• 5 minims oil of cassia
• 40 minims oil of geranium
• 5 minims oil of orange

Mix and perfume the wax as before. 

Bouquet Solid Perfume:

• 18 minims oil of coriander
• 2 drams oil of cloves
• 1 dram oil of nutmeg
• 3 drams oil of lavender 
• 1 dram oil of sandalwood
• 1 oz oil of bergamot
• 1/2 dram otto of rose
• 1/2 dram oil of geranium
• 10 minims oil of orange

Mix and perfume the wax as before.

Cologne Solid Perfume:

• 1 oz essence of bergamot
• 1 oz essence of lemon
• 1/2 oz oil of citronella
• 1/2 oz oil of neroli
• 80 minims of rosemary
• 10 minims oil of geranium

Mix.

Ess bouquet solid perfume:

• 1 dram coriander oil 
• 7 dram oil of cloves
• 3.5 dram nutmeg oil 
• 10 drams lavender oil 
• 3.5 dram sandal wood oil 
• 30 drams bergamot oil 
• 2 drams rose oil 
• 2 drams rose geranium oil 
• 0.6 dram neroli oil 

Paints or Rouges for the Skin

Paints or rouges are the means by which the natural color of the skin may be heightened or changed. They are, however, objectionable preparations, and the use of them extends very little beyond the theatres, where they are employed to produce stage effect.

Caution against Bismuth as a Cosmetic. The continued use of bismuth-white injures the skin, and ultimately produces paralysis of its minute vessels, rendering it yellow and leather- like - an effect which, unfortunately, those who employ it generally attempt to conceal by its freer and more frequent application.

French White. This is the mineral talc, or French chalk, finely powdered and bolted. It forms the basis of the most harmless rouges. Perfume is added as may be desired.

Pearl White. Pure oxide or subnitrate of bismuth in powder. This pigment darkens in atmospheres containing sulphide of hydrogen. 1 ounce triturated with 4 ounces of orange-flower water makes liquid white for theatrical use.

Pearl Powder. Precipitated chalk finely bolted and perfumed. The French add oxides of zinc and bismuth, each 1 ounce to the pound of chalk.

Liquid Blanc for Theatrical Use:

The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to
subdue it.

Madame V----, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than
half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus:--

• Rose or orange-flower water, 1 pint.
• Oxide of bismuth, 4 oz.

Mixed by long trituration.

Perle Face Powder:

• French chalk, 1 lb.
• Oxide of bismuth, 1 oz.
• Oxide of zinc, 1 oz.

Rose Face Powder:

• Wheat starch, 7 lbs.
• Rose Pink, 1/2 drachm.
• Otto of rose, 2 drachms.
• Otto of santal, 2 drachms

Bloom Rose:

This is a preparation of carmine for the face and lips. Take a quarter of a dram of carmine and place it in a phial with half a dram of liquid ammonia; keep for a few days, occasionally shaking the mixture; then dilute with two ounces of rose-water, to which half a dram of essence of roses has been added. Draw off and keep a week or ten days, then apply with the corner of a soft handkerchief, taking care that if the color is too bright it is reduced by means of pure water.

Liquid Rouge:

Harmless—a perfect imitation of nature. For ladies who wish to use a little artificial bloom the following is recommended. A liquid rouge to produce a perfect imitation of the colors of nature is prepared as follows: Add to a pint of French brandy, half an ounce of benzoin, an ounce of red sandalwood, half an ounce of Brazil wood and the same quantity of rock alum. Cork the bottle carefully, shake it well once a day, and at the end of twelve days it will be fit for use. The cheeks are to be lightly touched with it.

Colored Collodion for the Skin:

Take:

• 1 ounce collodion
• 3 grains each pure annotto 
• 3 grains dragon's blood

Digest, with agitation, in a stoppered phial, for 24 hours; and, if necessary, decant the clear portion.

Enamel Powder, to make the skin look like Porcelain:

Take equal parts finely scraped talc or French chalk, and pearl-white; sufficient rouge or carmine to slightly tinge it; mix. Used to conceal discolorations; and, without the coloring, to whiten the skin.

Azure Paste:

Talc and ultramarine, finely bolted, equal parts, triturated with a solution of gum tragacanth into a stiff paste

Carmine Rouge:

• 4 ounces finely bolted talc
•  2 drachms carmine

Mix together with a little warm and dilute solution of gum tragacanth. For lighter shades, the proportion of carmine must be diminished. For commoner pastes, rose-pink replaces the carmine as coloring matter. It may be made into a pomade.

Celestial Water

Take:

• 1 ounce Cinnamon
• 1 ounce Nutmegs
• 1 ounce Ginger 
• 1 ounce Zedoary
• 1 ounce Galangals 
• 1 ounce White Pepper
• 6 Lemon peels, pared thin 
• 2 handfuls Damascene Grapes 
• 2 handfuls Jujubes 
• 1 handful Pith of Dwarf-Elder 
• 4 handfuls Juniper-berries perfectly ripe 
• 1 handful Fennel-Seeds 
• 1 handful Flowers of Sweet Basil 
• 1 handful St. John's-wort
• 1 handful Rosemary
• 1 handful Marjoram 
• 1 handful Pennyroyal
• 1 handful Stechas
• 1 handful Musk Roses
• 1 handful Rue 
• 1 handful Scabious
• 1 handful Centaury
• 1 handful Fumitory 
• 1 handful Agrimony
• 2 ounces Spikenard, 
• 2 ounces Aloes-Wood
• 2 ounces Grains of Paradise
• 2 ounces Calamus Aromaticus
• 2 ounces Mace
• 2 ounces Gum Olibanum 
• 2 ounces Yellow Sanders
• 2 drachms Hepatic Aloes
• 2 drachms fine Amber 
• 2 drachms Rhubarb

All these drugs being procured good in their kind, beat in a mortar those that ought to be pulverized, and put the whole, thoroughly mixed together, into a large strong glass alembic; pouring as much genuine brandy upon them as will rife at lead: three nnsers breadth above the ingredients. Then having well closed the mouth of the alembic, bury the vessel fifteen days in warm horsedung, and afterwards distill the Tincture in balneo Marise (Balneo Maraie), the water almost boiling hot. When you perceive the water in the receiver change its colour, instantly stop the process, and separate the phlegm from the spirit, by another di foliation conducted in the fame manner. The liquor thus obtained is the genuine Celestial Water.

Note, when you perceive this second water begin to lose its transparency,. and incline to a reddish colour, put it by in a strong glass bottle closely stopped, and dissolve in the residue half a pound of the best Treacle, with as much Venice Turpentine and fresh Oil of Almonds,. Place the alembic in a land heat, and urge the fire to the first degree, to have the genuine Balsamic Oil, which ought to be of the consistence of clarified Honey.

Lotion de Gowland (Do not attempt)

Take:

• 1 grains of bichloride of mercury (poison)
• 1 ounce of emulsion of bitter almonds

Mix well.

Be careful of the bichloride of mercury, because it is a poison. This is one of the best cosmetics for imparting a delicate appearance and softness to the skin, and is a useful lotion in acne, ringworm, hard and dry skin, and sun-blisterings.

Victorian Cold Cream

Take:

• 10 drachms of spermaceti
• 4 drachms of white wax
• half a pound of prepared lard
• 15 grains of subcarbonate of potash
• 4 ounces of rose-water,
• 2 ounces of spirits of wine
• ten drops of otto of roses

Proceed as above. Some persons prefer orange-flower-water instead of rose-water, in which case use the same proportions.

Cold cream is a useful local application to hard and dry parts of the skin, to abrasions and cracks. When
spread thickly upon rag, it is an excellent application to blistered surfaces or burns, or may be used to protect exposed parts from the influence of the sun.

Cologne du Roi

The following formula has been published by one of the Messrs. Farina, the originators of cologne:


Take:

• 1/4 oz Benzoin
• 1/4 oz Oil or Rosemary
• 1/2 oz Oil of Lavender 
• 9 pints Strong Alcohol

 Mix, and agitate thoroughly together, and then add successively:

• 1 oz Oil of Neroli (petits grains)
• 1 oz Oil of Lemon
• 2 oz Oil of sweet Orange (Aurantii Dulcis)
• 2 oz Oil of Limettae (Lime)
• 2 oz Oil of Bergamot,
• 2 oz Tinct. Flor. Geranii Rose (Flowers of Rose Geranium) 

Let stand for several weeks a sufficient quantity to impart the desired fragrance. Macerate for several weeks, and fill into flasks.

A.D. Circ., VIII 85. Am. Jour. Pharm., 1864 p 375. I have reduced weights and measures above.

J. Maria Farina Cologne

• 4 oz Benzoin dissolved in alcohol
• 8 oz essence of lavender
• 4 oz essence of rosemary
• 325 qts alcohol at 75° 

To this solution add succesively:

• 21 oz neroli
• 21 oz petit grain
• 21 oz cedrat
• 2 1/2 lbs essence of Portugal (probably essential oil of bitter or sweet orange peel)
• 2 1/2 lbs.lemon
• 2 1/2 lbs.  alcoholic extract of geranium

Shake several times; leave 14 days, and bottle.