Esprit de Bergamot

Take:

• 5 Imperial fluid drachms oil of bergamot (finest, recent)
• 1/2 fluid drachm oil of rose-geranium 
• 1/2 fluid drachm oil of verbena
• 2 fluid drachm essence of ambergris
• 1 fluid drachms; essence of musk
• 1 pint rectified spirit

Mix. Very fine.

For a second quality (usually called best),
1 quart of spirit (70 per cent.) is used; for a third quality, 3 to 4 pints at proof.

Imperial Water

Take:

• 5 quarts of Brandy, in which dissolve:
• 1 ounce of Frankincense
• 1 ounce Mastic, 
• 1 ounce Benjamin
• 1 ounce Gum Arabic 
• 1/2 ounce Cloves 
• 1/2 ounce Nutmegs; 
• 1 1/2 ounce Pine-nut Kernels 
• 3 sweet Almonds 
• 3 grains of Musk 

Bruise these ingredients in a marble mortar, distill in a vapour bath, and keep the water that is drawn off in a glass bottle, tightly stoppered.

This water takes away wrinkles, and renders the skin extremely delicate; it also whitens the Teeth, and abates the toothache, sweetens the breath, and Strengthens the gums. Foreign ladies prize it highly.

Various Queen Victoria Formulas

Queen Victoria Perfume:

• Orange flowers essence 600 grammes
• Tuberose essence 1250 grammes
• Violet essence 2500 grammes
• Rose essence 2500 grammes
• Civet essence 100 grammes
• Acacia essence 200 grammes
• Bergamot essence 25 grammes
• Lemon oil 10 grammes

Queen Victoria Bouquet:

• Lemon Oil 3/8 dr 
• Bergamot Oil 5/8 dr
• Zibethin Tincture 3 dr
• Orange Flower 1 1/4 oz 
• Cassie 1 1/2 oz
• Jasmine 1 1/2 oz
• Tuberose 3 oz
• Violet 4 oz
• Rose 4 1/2 oz

New Victoria Perfume:

• Cloves, bruised, 2 scruples
• Vanilla, cut small, 1 dr.
• Oil of cedrat 4 drops
• Oil of santal 1 dr
• Cinnamon 12 grs.
• Oil of verbena 8 drops
• Otto of roses 8 drops
• Oil of neroli 20 drops
• Oil of lavender 1 dr.
• Ambergris 16 grs.
• Tincture of musk 1 dr.
• Rectified spirit 16 fluid oz

Digest for a few days, and filter. Or the whole except the musk and ambergris may be distilled in a water-bath, and these added to the distilled spirit.

Another similar perfume is -

• Vanilla 1/2 dr.
• Yellow Sanders 6 drs.
• Cloves No. 16,
• Neroli 3 drops,
• Oil of lavender 6 drops
• Rectified spirit 4 oz.

Digest for 3 days, and add

• 4 oz. of orange-flower water
• water q. s.; distil 6 oz.
• add essence of musk 1 dr. 

Common Milk of Roses

This is not quite so expensive a  receipt as the last; and, at the same time is not so good,

Take:

• 1 ounce of Jordan almonds
• 5 ounces of distilled rose-water
• 1 ounce of spirit of wine
• 1 drachm of Venetian soap
• 2 drops of otto of roses 

Beat the almonds (previously blanched and well dried with a  cloth) in a mortar, until they become a complete paste, then beat the soap and mix with the almonds, and after- wards add the rose-water and spirit. Strain through * very fine muslin or linen, and add the otto of roses. The common milk of roses sold in the shops, frequently contains salt of tartar, or pearlash, combined with olive oil and rose-water, and therefore it is better to make it yourself to ensure it being good.

Bouquet des Fleurs du Val d'Andorre Perfume

• 1 pint extrait de jasmine
• 1 pint extrait de violette
• 1 pint extrait de rose
• 1 pint extrait de tuberose
• 1 pint extract of orris
• 1/4 oz otto of geranium

Indian Bouquet

• Orris Oil, Concrete 1/16 dr 
• Patchouly Oil 3/16 dr
• Ambrette Oil 1/8 dr
• Zibethin (10% solution) 3/8 dr
• Musk 1/2 dr
• Ionone 1/2 dr
• Orris Tincture 10 dr
• Orange Flower 12 dr
• Jasmine 14 1/2 oz 

Various White Rose Formulas

Extract White Rose #1:

• 4 parts Triple Extract Rose 
• 4 parts Triple Extract Violet
• 4 parts Extract Orris 
• 4 parts Essence Rose 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Jasmine  
• 1 part Essence Patchouly 

Mix. This may be diluted with 4 pans of Cologne Spirit if desired.

White Rose #2:

• Patchouly Oil 1/4 dr 
• Bergamot Oil 1/2 dr
• Geranium Oil 1/2 dr
• Linaloe Oil 1/2 dr
• Sandal Oil 3/4 dr 
• Benzoin Tincture 10 1/2 dr 
• Tuberose 11 dr
• Cassie 1 oz 
• Rose 13 1/2 oz 

White Rose Bouquet #3:

• Oil rose 2 drs 
• Oil cedar 6 mins 
• Oil patchouli 4 mins 
• Oil orange 1/2 dr 
• Extract tuberose 2 ozs
• Extract iris 2 ozs 
• Extract jasmine 2 ozs 
• Extract musk 2 ozs 
• Benzoic acid 1 dr 
• Alcohol 1 to 4 pints diluted with 4 ounces of rose water 

Essence of White Rose

• 1 quart Esprit de rose from pomatum,
• 1 quart Esprit de rose triple
• 1 quart Esprit de violette
• 1 pint Extract of jasmine
• 1/2 Extract of patchouly

White Rose:

• Tincture of rose 24 ounces 
• Tincture of violet 12 ounces 
• Tincture of cassle 6 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmine 12 ounce 
• Tincture of orris 16 ounces 
• Tincture of musk 4 ounces 
• Tincture of ambergris 1 dram 
• Oil of rose l 1/2 drams 
• Oil of sandalwood 1 dram 
• Oil of patchouli 10 drops 

Mix and fiiter if necessary. Color light green with chlorophyll.


White Rose Cologne #1:

• 1 drachm Oil Neroli Bigarade  
• 1/2 drachm Oil Neroli Petitgrain 
• 2 drachms Oil Bergamot 
• 1 drachm Oil Patchouly  
• 3 drachms Oil Rose 
• 2 ounces Extract Musk  
• 2 ounces Tincture Tolu 
• 7 pints Cologne Spirit 
• 1 pint Rose Water 

Dissolve the Oils in the Spirit and add the Rose Water let stand 30 days and filter


White Rose Cologne #2:

• 1 dram rose oil
• 1 1/2 dram bergamot oil
• 10 drops patchouli oil
• 1 dram sweet orange oil
• 8 oz tincture of orris
• 2 oz tincture of musk
• 2 oz tincture of civet
• 4 oz jasmine extract
• 4 1/2 pint of cologne spirits
• 8 oz rose water

Dissolve the oils in the spirit, add the tinctures, and lastly, add the rose water; let stand three days, and filter with 1/2 oz magnesia. Color green if desired, with tincture of ambergris, a few grains of green analine dissolved in alcohol or with tincture of chlorophyll.

White Rose 

• Rose oil 25 minims 
• Rose geranium oil 20 minims 
• Patchouli oil 5 minims 
• Ionone 3 minims 
• Jasmine oil synthetic 5 minims 
• Alcohol 10 ounces 

To Clean Kid Leather Boots

Mix a little white of egg and ink in a bottle, so that the composition may be well shaken up when required for use.

Apply to the kid with a piece of sponge and rub dry.

The best thing to rub dry with is the palm of the hand.

When the kid shows symptoms of cracking, rub in a few drops of sweet oil.

The soles and heels should be polished with common blacking.

Eau de Bruler for the Perfume Lamp

• 1 pint Eau de Cologne
•  2 oz. Tincture of benzoin
• 1 oz" Tincture of vanilla
•  1/2 drachm. Otto of thyme
• 1/2 drachm. Otto of  mint.
• 1/2 drachm. Otto of  nutmeg

Bouquet of All Nations Perfume

Countries wherein the Odors are produced.

• Turkey - 1/2 pint Esprit de rose triple
• Africa - 1/2 pint Extract of jasmine
• England - 1/4 pint Extract of lavender
• France - 1/2 pint Extract of tuberose
• South America - 1/4 pint Extract of vanilla
• Timor - 1/4 pint Extract of sandalwood
• Italy - 1 pint Extract of violet
• Hindoostan - 1/4 pint Extract of patchouli
• Ceylon - 1 drachm Otto of citronella
• Sardinia - 1/4 oz Otto of lemons
• Tonquin - 1/4 pint Extract of musk

ALL NATIONS BOUQUET Mix 

• Violet Essence two fluidounces 
• Jasmine Essence one fluidounce 
• Tuberose Essence one fluidounce 
• Rose Spirit one fluidounce 
• Sandal Spirit half a fluidounce 
• Lavender Extract half a fluidounce 
• Patchouly Extract half a fluidounce 
• Musk Tincture one fluidounce 
• Vanilla Tincture half a fluidounce 
• Lemon Otto fifteen minims 
• Citronella Otto eight minims 

This is an agreeable perfume but without any very special claims to favor.  

Vinaigre des Quatre Voleurs

Also known as 4 Thieves' vinegar.

Dried tops of large and small (pontic)

• wormwood 2 oz
• rosemary 2 oz
• sage 2 oz
• mint 2 oz 
• rue 2 oz
• lavender-flowers 2 oz

Add:

• calamus root 1/4 oz
• cinnamon 1/4 oz
• cloves 1/4 oz
• nutmeg 1/4 oz
• garlic 1/4 oz

Mix into:

• camphor 1/2 oz.
• concentrated acetic acid 2 oz.
• strong vinegar 8 lbs

Macerate the herbs, etc, in the vinegar for a fortnight, strain, press, and add the camphor dissolved in the acetic acid.

Fine Camphor Ice

Melt together over a water-bath:

• 1 ounce white wax 
• 1 ounce spermaceti
• 2 ounces camphor
• 1 pound sweet almond oil

Next, triturate in the manner directed for amandine, and allow 1 pound of rose-water to flow in slowly during the operation. Then perfume with attar of rosemary, 1 drachm.

Or,

• 2 ounces Oil of sweet almonds
• 4 ounces spermaceti
• 2 ounces white wax
• 1/2 ounce camphor

 Melt them over a water-bath, run in moulds of proper size and form 

Various Nosegay Formulas

EXTRACT OF NOSEGAY - Syn. Extrait de Bouquet

• 1 drachm flowers of benzoin 
• 2 oz essence of ambergris  
• 1 pint spirit of jasmine 
• 1 pint extract of violets
• 1/2 pint spirits of cassia 
• 1/2 pint roses 
• 1/2 pint orange
• 1/2 pint gillyflower

Mix.

A most delightful perfume.


Taken from - A Cyclopaedia of six thousand practical receipts, 1851

Nosegay Toilet Water:

Take:

• 1 ounce Honey-water
• 2 ounces Eau fans Pareille
• 5 drachms Jasmine-water
• 1/2 ounce Clove-water
• 1/2 ounce Violet-water
• 2 drachms Cyprus-water
• 2 drachms sweet Calamus-water
• 2 drachms Lavender-water
• 10 drops Spirit of Neroli or Oranges 

Mix all these Waters together, and keep the mixture in a vial close corked. This water has a delightful scent ; but its use is only for the toilet.

Cashmere Nosegay:

• 1 pint Extract of violet
• 1-1/2 pint Extract of rose
• 1/2 pint Tincture of benzoin 
• 1/4 pint Tincture of civet
• 1/4 pint Tincture of  Tonquin 
• 1/2 oz Flowers of benzoin  
• 1/4 oz Oil of patchouly 
• 1/2 oz oil of santal 
• 8 oz Rose-water, triple 

Bouquet du Roi (Royal Nosegay):

• 1 pint extract of jasmine
• 1 pint extract of rose 
• 1/2 pint extract of violet
• 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
• 1/4 pint tincture of vetiver
• 2 oz tincture of musk
• 2 oz tincture of ambrette
• 1 oz oil of bergamot
• 2 drams oil of cloves
• 12 oz orange flower water, triple

Bouquet de la Reine (Queens's Nosegay):

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of orange flower 
• 1/2 pint extract of violet
• 1/2 pint extract of tuberose
• 1/4 pint tincture of orris
• 1/4 pint tincture of civet
• 1/4 oz oil of bergamot
• 8 oz rose water, triple

Gypsy Nosegay:

• 1 pint Extract of jasmin 
• 1 pint extract of orange flower 
• 1 pint extract of cassie 
• 1/2 pint Tincture of orris  
• 1/4 pint tincture of musk 
• 1/2 oz Oil of verbena 
• 4 oz Rose-water, triple 

Bouquet des Indes (Indian Nosegay):

• 1-1/2 pint Extract of rose 
• 3/4 pint extract of orange flower 
• 1/4 pint Tincture of musk
• 1/2 pint tincture of Tonquin 
• 1/2 pint tincture of ambrette 
• 1 drachm Oil of santal 
• 1 drachm oil of patchouly 
• 8 oz Rose-water, triple 

Extrait des Fleurs d'Italie (Italian Nosegay):

• 1 pint Extract of rose
• 1/2 pint Extract of orange flower 
• 1/2 pint Extract of jasmine
• 1/2 pint Extract of violet
• 1/2 pint Tincture of orris  
• 1/4 pint Tincture of musk 
• 1/4 pint Tincture of benzoin  
• 1/4 pint Tincture of ambergris 
• 1/4 pint Rose-water, double
• This is one of the oldest and best known of essences. 

Various May Bells Formulas

The formula below was taken from Mierzinski.


May Bells #1 

• Oil bergamot parts 1.0 
• Oil rose geranium parts 1.5 
• Tincture musk parts 2 5 
• Oil linaloe parts 5.0 
• Extract jasmine parts 250.0 
• Alcohol, 80 proof,  parts 760.0 

It is understood of course that none but the best materials are to be used.


May Bells #2

• Extract orange parts 2000 
• Extract violet parts 1000
• Extract cassia parts 1000
• Tincture orris parts 50
• Tincture musk parts 20
• Oil clove parts 30
• Oil linaloe parts 60
• Oil coriander parts 20
• Oil cananga parts 10
• Oil wintergreen parts 10
• Oil mace parts parts 10
• Oil ylang ylang parts 5
• Alcohol absolute 180

In all of the above the essential oils are dissolved in the absolute alcohol and the solution added to the mixture of extracts.


Taken from Western Druggist, Volume 17, 1895.


May Bells 

• Jasmine extrait 
• Orange extrait 
• Linaloe extrait 
• Spirit of ylang ylang 
• Oil of mace 
• Tincture of orris

Almond Paste for the Skin

Take 1 ounce of bitter almonds, blanch  and pound them to a fine powder, then add 1 ounce of  barley flour, and make it into a smooth paste by the addition of a little honey.

When this paste is laid over  the skin, particularly where there are freckles, it makes  it smooth and soft.

Farina's Eau de Cologne

Take:

•  10 grains angelica-root
• 15 grains camphor
• 20 grains cassia-lignea
• 20 grains cloves
• 20 grains mace
• 20 grains nutmegs
• 20 grains wormwood tops
• 1/2 drachm calamus aromaticus
• 1/2 drachm sage
• 1/2 drachm thyme
• 1 drachm orange flowers
• 1 1/2 drachms lavender flowers 
• 3 drachms rose petals
• 3 drachms violets of each
• 1 ounce balm-mint
• 1 ounce spear-mint 
• 2 sliced lemons
• 2 sliced oranges
• 5 gallons rectified Cologne spirits

Bruise or slice the solids, and digest them in the spirit, with frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 days, then distill off 3 gallons.

To this add:

• 1 ounce oil of bergamot
• 1 ounce essential oil of jasmine
• 1 drachm oil of balm-mint
• 1 drachm oil of cedrat
• 1 drachm oil of lavender
• 1 drachm oil of lemon 
• 20 drops; pure neroli 
• 20 drops oil of anthos-seed

Agitate until solution is complete, and the next day, if necessary, filter.

This formula, many years since, was confidentially given by the celebrated original Jean Maria Farina, who lived opposite the Jülichs Platz, in Cologne, to a professional gentleman, now deceased, with a solemn assurance that it was the one used by the former in his laboratory. After keeping the secret some years, this gentleman disclosed it.

It seems unnecessarily complicated. Some of the articles, as the herbs wormwood and mint, are either useless or better omitted. The version given above differs from the original simply in being intended for only 5 gallons instead of twelve times the quantity. Dr. Cooley says he personally tried it, and found the quality of the product splendid.

Sachet a la Marechale

• 1/2 lb sandalwood powder
• 1/2 lb orris root powder
• 1/4 lb ground rose leaves
• 1/4 lb ground cloves
• 1/4 lb cassia bark
• 1/2 drachm grain musk 

Poudre a la Mareschale

Oak moss in powder 2 lbs., plain starch powder 1 lb., cloves 1 oz., calamus 2 oz., cyperus 2 oz., rotten oak-wood powder 2 oz.; mix. - Gray.

Common Aromatic Vinegar

Take:

• 1 ounce avoirdupoisof camphor
• 1 drachm oil of cloves
• 40 grains oil of cedrat
• 40 grains lavender (Mitcham)
• 20 grains oil of bergamot
• 20 grains of thyme
• 10 grains of oil of cinnamon
• 1/2 pound glacial acetic acid

Mix. Very fine.

Various Civet Formulas

Extract of Civet is prepared by rubbing in a mortar one ounce of civet with an ounce of orris-root powder, or any other similar material that will assist to break up or divide the civet; and then placing the whole into a gallon of rectified spirits; after macerating for a month, it is fit to strain off.

It is principally used as a "fixing" ingredient, in mixing essences of delicate odor.

The French perfumers use the extract of civet more than English manufacturers, who seem to prefer extract of musk. From a quarter of a pint to half a pint is the utmost that ought to be mixed with a gallon of any other perfume.

Essence of Civet:

Take:

• 1 ounce civet cut very small
• 1 pint rectified spirit

Proceed as for essence of ambergris or musk. Its odor is only agreeable when faint and combined with that of other substances, which it sustains and increases. It is hence seldom or never used alone.

Precious Stones and their Meanings

Precious Stones.

SOME of the precious stones and gems have been given a distinct significance by imparting a special meaning or name to them. The ancients besides considered certain months sacred to the different stones, and some people have considered this in making birthday or wedding presents. Below will be found the stones regarded as sacred to the various months, with the meaning given to each.

• January—Garnet—Constancy and Fidelity.
• February—Amethyst—Sincerity.
• March—Bloodstone—Courage.
• April—Sapphire—Repentance.
• May—Emerald—Success in love.
• June—Agate—Health and long life.
• July—Ruby—Forgetfulness of, and exemption from vexations caused by friendship and love.
• August—Sardonyx—Conjugal Fidelity.
• September—Chrysolite—Freedom from evil passions and sadness of mind.
• October—Opal—Hope and Faith.
• November—Topaz—Fidelity and Friendship.
• December—Turquoise—Prosperity.

Of the precious stones not included in the above list, the language is given below:

• Diamond—Innocence.
• Pearl—Purity.
• Cornelian—Contented mind.
• Moonstone—Protects from danger.
• Heliotrope—Causing the owner to walk invisible.