Idriol Perfume c1900

• 40 fluid ozs tincture of rhodinol 
• 20 fluid ozs extract of orange 
• 10 fluid ozs moss rose perfume 
• 10 fluid ozs extract of cassie 
• 10 fluid ozs tincture of irisone 
• 4 fluid ozs tincture of musk (diluted)

Method: Mix and tint with spirit rose.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Elytra Perfume c1900

• 40 fluid ozs opoponax perfume 
• 23 fluid ozs white rose perfume 
• 17 fluid ozs violette de bois perfume 
• 6 fluid drs tincture of musk 

Method: Mix the first three then add the tincture of musk giving a lavender tint with aniline.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Zuleika Perfume c1900

• 72 fluid ozs perfumer's spirit 
• 72 fluid ozs tincture of roseol 
• 60 fluid ozs extract of Jasmine 
• 40 fluid ozs tincture of orris 
• 40 fluid ozs tincture of vanillin 
• 10 fluid ozs extract of civet 
• 4 fluid ozs oil of lignum aloes 

Method: Dissolve the lignum aloe oil in the spirit then add the others as written very faintly tinging with spirit green.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Sinhali Perfume c1900

• 40 fluid ozs extract of jasmin 
• 40 fluid ozs tincture of rhodinol 
• 20 fluid ozs extract of cassie 
• 10 fluid ozs tincture of vanillin 
• 5 fluid ozs tincture of storax fluid dr tincture of irisone or violettol (strong)

Method: Mix coloring a faint rose tint with spirit rose.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Dyrel Perfume c1900

• 25 fluid ozs tincture of rhodinol 
• 15 fluid ozs tincture of orris 
• 10 fluid ozs extract of cassie 
• 8 fluid ozs extract of orange 
• 5 fluid ozs tincture of vanillin (Monnet)
• 5 fluid ozs tincture of irisone 
• 2 fluid ozs extract of civet 
• 1 fluid ozs tincture of musk 

Method:  Mix and tinge yellow.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Mysolia Perfume c1900

• 26 fluid ozs ess bouquet perfume 
• 25 fluid ozs Jockey Club perfume 
• 12 fluid ozs tincture of heliotropine 

Method: Mix and tinge a lilac tint with aniline.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

All Flower Water c1779

Source: The Toilet of Flora. c1779

Pour into a large vessel:

• 5 quarts of strong Spirit of Wine, and infuse in it the following Flowers, as they come in season: 

• 1/4 pound Violets
• 1/4 pound Hyacinths
• 1/4 pound Wall Flowers 
• 2 ounces single Jonquils
• 2 ounces double Jonquils
• 1/4 pound of Lilies of the Valley 
• 1/4 pound Spanish Jasmine 
• 1/2 ounce of Rosemary Flowers 
• 1 ounce of Elder Flowers 
• 2 ounces of Wild Roses, bruised
• 2 ounces of Damask, bruised
• 2 ounces of White Roses, bruised; 
• 3 ounces of Orange Flowers 
• 1/4 pound of Clove-July-flowers,
• 1/4 pound Syringo Blossoms (seringa = mock orange blossom) 
• 1/4 pound Tuberoses
• 1/4 pound Tops of Mint in Flower
• 30 drops of Quintessence of Musk-seed

The latter, however, need not be added till the time of distillation, which must not be till three days after the last Flowers have been in- fused. Perform the operation in a water bath, and having carefully luted the head and receiver, which mutt be placed in a tub of cold water, to preserve the scent, draw off about three quarts and a pint with a moderate fire, then change the receiver, fix on another, and draw off another pint, which, though of an inferior quality, is well worth preserving.

Spring Nosegay Perfume

A Curious Water, known by the name of Spring Nosegay. Take:

• 6 ounces of Hyacinths 
• 1/2 pound of picked Violets
• 1/4 pound of Wall Flowers 
• 1/4 pound Jonquils 
• 1 ounce of Florentine Orris, bruised 
• 1/2 ounce of Mace, grossly powdered
• 2 ounces of Quintessence of Orange

Put the whole (the Jonquils, Wall Flowers, and Lilies of the Valley excepted) around the sixth of March into a glass body, with a gallon of strong Spirit of Wine; bruise the Hyacinths, Violets, Orris, and Mace; and towards the end of April, add the Jonquils, when in their perfection, that is to say, when full blown.

A few days after, put in the Wall Flowers, the Petals only; then add the Lilies of the Valley, carefully picked, and shake all the ingredients well. Eight days after having put in this last Flower, empty the infusion into an alembic, lute on a head and receiver, which mull: be placed in cold water, and distill in a water bath, with a gentle fire. From the above quantity three quarts of excellent Spirit may be drawn off, that justly deserves the appellation of the Spring Nosegay.

Spring Nosegay #2:

• Musk Tincture 10 dr 
• Ambergris Tincture 14 dr
• Cassie 2 1/2 oz 
• Rose 2 1/2 oz
• Jasmine 2 1/2 oz
• Tuberose 2 1/2 oz
• Orange 4 1/2 oz

Spring Nosegay #3:

• 1 qt cassie extract 
• 4 oz "Viozone" 
• 1 pt orris tincture
• 1 qt jasmine extract
• 1 qt orange blossom extract
• 1 oz "Floressence Mimosa"
• 1 dram Musk xylene, 100%

Various Jockey Club Formulas

English Jockey Club Perfume:

• 2 pts Extract of orris-root 
• 1 pt esprit de rose, triple 
• 1 pt esprit de rose 
• 1/2 pt extrait de cassia 
• 1/2 pt extrait de tubereuse 
• 1/2 pt extrait de ambergris 
• 1/2 oz otto of bergamot

French Jockey Club Perfume:

• 1 pt Esprit de rose
• 1 pt esprit de tuberose
• 1/2 pt esprit de cassia
• 1/4 pt esprit de jasmin
• 3 oz. extract of civet

American Jockey Club Perfume:

• 6 drams Oil of Bergamot
• 15 drops Oil of Lavender
• 8 drops Oil of Rose
• 4 ounces Orris Root Tincture
• 1 1/2 ounce Vanilla Tincture
• 4 ounces Cologne Spirits
• 7 ounces Rosewater

Mix as above.

Jockey Club Bouquet Perfume:

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of tuberose
• 1/2 pint extract of cassia
• 4 ounces extract of jasmin
• 3 ounces tincture of civet

Filter the mixture.

Jockey Club Perfume #1:

• 5 gallons spirits of wine
• 1 gallon orange flower water
• 4 oz balsam of Peru
• 8 oz essence of bergamot
• 8 oz essence of musk
• 4 oz essence of cloves
• 2 oz essence of neroli

Mix.

Jockey Club Bouquet #2:

• 1 pint Extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of cassie 
• 1 pint extract of orange flower 
• 1/2 pint Tincture of orris 
• 1/4 pint tincture of ambergris
• 1/4 pint tincture of musk 
• 1 ounce Oil of bergamot
• 1 drachm oil of rose 
• 8 ounces Orange-flower water 

This is of English origin, and has a great name and a great sale.

Jockey Club #3:

• Oil bergamot parts 5 
• Oil rose geranium parts 5 
• Tincture ambergris parts 50 
• Extract jasmine parts 250 
• Extract iris parts 350 
• Alcohol parts 340 

The next formula from Dieterich's Manual is said to yield a superb perfume. 

Jockey Club #4:

• Extract jasmine grains 30.0 
• Extract tuberose grains 30.0 
• Spirit nitrous ether grains  5.0 
• Storax grains  5.0 
• Civet grains  0.02 
• Musk grains  0.05 
• Coumarin grains  0 07 
• Heliotropin grains  0.01 
• Oil rose grains 1.00 
• Oil bergamot grains 0.50 
• Oil rose geranium, French 5 drops
• Oil orange flower 5 drops
• Oil cinnamon Ceylon 2 drops
• Oil rosewood 2 drops
• Oil bitter almond 2 drops
• Oil linaloe 2 drops
• Oil iris 2 drops
• Oil coriander 1 drops
• Alcohol absolute grains 135.00 

Triturate the musk and civet with a little water before adding to the other ingredients 

Jockey Club #5: 

• Essence acacia parts 1,000 
• Essence tuberose parts 1,200
• Essence vanilla parts 600
• Essence jasmine parts 1,000
• Essence rose parts 500
• Essence civet parts 300
• Essence bergamot parts 25
• Essence rose geranium parts 5
• Essence lemon parts 20

Jockey Club #6:

• Spirit 4000 grammes
• Water 500  grammes
• Musk tincture 60 grammes
• Bergamot oil 60 grammes
• Tonka beans essence 60  grammes
• Clove oil 30 grammes grammes
• Cassia oil 10 grammes
• Palmarosa oil 20 grammes
• Lavender oil 15 grammes

Jockey Club #7:

• Ambrette Oil 1 dr 
• Cassie Oil 1 1/2 dr
• Rose Oil 3 1/2 dr
• Linalyl Acetate 6 dr
• Tolu Tincture 12 dr
• Musk Tincture 2 oz 
• Orris Tincture 2 1/2 oz
• Jasmine 4 1/2 oz
• Rose 5 oz

Extract Jockey Club 

• 4 parts Triple Extract Rose 
• 4 parts Triple Extract Tuberose 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Cassie 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Jasmine 
• 3 parts Extract Orris 
• 1 part Extract Ambergris 
• 1 part Extract Civet 
• 2 parts Essence Rose 
• 5 parts Cologne Spirit 

Mix

taken from Fenner's Complete Formulary, 1888.


Jockey Club Bouquet. 
Extract of orris root 2 pints, esprit de rose triple 1 pint, esprit de pommade de rose 1 pint, extract of pomade of cassia, and tuberose, 1/2 pint each, extract of ambergris 1/2 pint, oil of bergamot 1/2 oz.


Jockey Club #8:

• Tincture of cassie 17 ounces 
• Tincture of tuberose 20 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmin 17 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 8 1/2 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 10 ounces 
• Tincture of civet 5 ounces 
• Oil of bergamot 3 drams 
• Oil of lemon 3 drams 
• Oil of rose geranium 1 dram 

Mix and filler if necessary.


Jockey Club #9:

• Tincture of jasmine 10 ounces 
• Tincture of orange flowers 8 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 8 ounces 
• Tincture of cassie 8 ounces 
• Tincture of coumarin 4 ounces 
• Tincture of civet 2 ounces 
• Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 4 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
• Oil of rose 1 dram 

Mix and filter if necessary.




Jockey Club: 

• Oil of bergamot 1 1/2 drams 
• Oil of lavender 1/2 dram 
• Oil of rose 15 minims 
• Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 1 ounce 
• Tincture of orris root 8 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 3 ounces 
• Cologne spirits 188 per ct 8 ounces 
• Rose water 14 ounces 

Mix the oils and tincture with 4 ounces of cologne spirits, place the magnesia in a mortar, pour on the solution of oils and triturate well, take the remaining 16 ounces of spirits, mix with the 14 ounces of water, and slowly add to the contents of the mortar stirring constantly and uniformly for 10 minutes. Filter through filtering paper and at as low a temperature as possible. If weather is warm, filter in an ice chest at a temperature of about 40 F. The product should measure 2 pints.

JOCKEY CLUB #1 

• Jasmine extrait 
• Otto of rose 
• Essence of musk 
• Tincture of Tonka bean 
• Cologne spirit 

JOCKEY CLUB #2 

• Spirit of rose 
• Tuberose extrait 
• Cassie extrait 
• Essence of civet 
• Rose extrait 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Orange flower extrait 
• Essence of musk 

JOCKEY CLUB #3:

• Tincture of orris 
• Essence of civet 
• Essence of ambergris 
• Essence of musk 
• Cassie extrait 
• Tuberose extrait 
• Rose extrait 
• Spirit of rose 

Various Fleur d'Italie Formulas

• 2 pts Esprit de rose
• 1 pt esprit de rose, triple
• 1 pt esprit de jasmin
• 1 pt esprit de violette
• 1/2 pt extract of cassia
• 2 oz. extract of musk
• 2 oz. extract of Ambergris

Italian Nosegay or Fleur d'ltalie 

• 2 pints essence of rose pomade 
• 1 pint jasmine
• 1 pint violet 
• 1/2 pint cassie 
• 1/2 pint tuberose 
• 2 oz tonquin 
• 2 oz ambergris 
• 2 oz musk  

Fiori di 'Italia:

• Extract of cassie 1 pint 
• Tincture of ambergris 5 oz 
• Extract of jasmine 1 qt 
• Tincture of musk 5 oz 
• Extract of rose 2 qts 
• Extract of violet 1 qt 
• Essence of rose triple 1 qt 

Fleur d Italie 

• Essence of ambergris 
• Essence of musk 
• Spirit of rose 
• Cassie extrait 
• Tuberose extrait 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Violet extrait 
• Rose extrait

Imitation Essence of Violet Perfume

• 1 pt. Extract of cassia
• 1/2 pint extract of rose
• 1/2 pint tincture of orris
• 1/2 pint extract of tuberose

Imitation Essence of Wallflower Perfume

Wallflower #1:

• 1 pt Extrait fleur d'orange
• 1/2 pt. extract of vanilla
• 1 pt. esprit de rose
• 1/2 pt. extract of orris
• 1/2 pt extract of cassia
• 1/4 dram essential oil of almonds 

Allow this mixture to be made for 2 or 3 weeks prior to use.

Extract of Wallflower (Extrait de Girofle):

• 1 qt extract of jasmine, made from the pomade
• 1 qt extract of orange flower, made from the pomade
• 1 qt extract of rose, made from the pomade
• 1 pint tincture of vanilla
• 1 pint tincture of orris root
• 1 oz Oeillet (base by Naef)
• 1 dram musk xylene, 100%