Various Ambergris Formulas

Top notes: orange blossom, reseda

MIddle notes: rose, orris, jasmine, geranium

Base notes: ambergris, civet, musk, vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin, styrax, patchouli, ambrette, tolu balsam

Essence of Ambergris:

Take:

• 1/4 ounce Ambergris
• 1/4 ounce Sugar Candy
• 1/2 drachm  Musk
• 2 grains Civet

Rub them together, and put the mixture into a Phial : pour upon it a quarter of a pint of tartarifed Spirit of Wine, tightly stopper the Phial, which set in a gentle sand heat for four or five days, and then decant the clear Tincture for use. This makes the best of perfumes; the least touch of it leaves its scent upon any thing a great time; and in constitutions where such sweets are not offensive to the head, nothing can be a more immediate Cordial.

Huile a l'Ambre:

Oil of Ambergris; Huile d'Ambergris, or Huile a` l'Ambre Parfum. 

Take:

• 4 to 6 drachms finest ambergris
• 1 pint oil (almond, olive, or ben "moringa")

Proceed by infusion.A second quality is made by working the residuum with 1/2 pint of fresh oil.


Concentrated Tincture of Ambergris:

Essence of Ambergris; or Concentrated Tincture of Ambergris. 

Take:

• 10 drachms 95 per cent, ambergris 
• 1 pint rectified spirit

Put them into a strong bottle or tin can, secure the mouth perfectly and very firmly, and keep the vessel in a room exposed to the heat of the sun, or equally warm, for a month or two, observing to briskly agitate it daily during the whole time. Lastly, after repose, decant the clear portion, and, if necessary, filter it rapidly through soft blotting paper. 

Very fine. It forms the strongest and finest simple essence of ambergris of the Paris houses,  The common practice in making the essence is to cut the ambergris up small before digesting it; but a much better plan is to rub down both the ambergris and musk with a little powdered glass, clean silicious sand, or dry lump-sugar, observing afterwards to rinse the mortar out well two or three times, with portions of the spirit, so that nothing may be lost.

 A second quality may be made by employing half the quantity of ambergris to the same amount of spirit.

Essence of Ambergris:

• 10 drachms Ambergris
• 3 drachms grain musk (Tonquin or Chinese pure)
• 1 quart rectified spirit

Proceed as in the last receipt. The products of the above two receipts form a delightful perfume highly esteemed in the fashionable world. A very small quantity of any one of them added to eau de Cologne, lavender-water, tooth-powder, hair-powder, pomades, wash-balls, etc., communicates a delicious fragrance. 

A few drops added to sweet-scented spirits, liqueurs, wines, etc., improve their flavor and aroma. 1 or 11/2 fluid drachms added to a hogshead of claret, imparts a flavor and bouquet to the wine which is regarded by many as delicious.

Extrait d'Ambre:

• 1/2 pint Esprit de rose triple
• 1 pint Extract of ambergris
• 1/4 pint Essence of musk
• 2 oz Extract of vanilla

This perfume has such a lasting odor, that a handkerchief being well perfumed with it, will still retain an odor even after it has been washed.

The fact is, that both musk and ambergris contain a substance which clings pertinaciously to woven fabrics, and not being soluble in weak alkaline lyes, is still found upon the material after passing through the lavatory ordeal.

Powdered ambergris is used in the manufacture of cassolettes—little ivory or bone boxes perforated—which are made to contain a paste of strong-smelling substances, to carry in the pocket or reticule; also in the making of peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, used for perfuming writing paper and envelopes, and which will be described hereafter.


Tincture of Ambergris.

Powder thoroughly 1 ounce ambergris and 1/2 ounce sugar in a warm mortar; then dissolve 1/2 ounce carbonate of potash in 14 ounces alcoholate of roses, and add to it 31/2 ounces tincture of musk; macerate the whole for about 1 month, and filter.


Eau d'Ambre Royale:

Rectified spirit 2 lbs., tincture of musk seed 1 lb., essence of ambergris 1 oz., tincture of musk 1 oz., reduced with a proper proportion of orange-flower water.


Ambre Royal:

• Musk 3/8 dr 
• Patchouly Oil 3/8 dr 
• Resedageraniol 3/4 dr 
• Vanillin 1 1/4 dr 
• Ambergris 1 1/2 dr  
• Benzyl Acetate 6 1/2 dr  
• Styrax Solution 9 1/4 dr 
• Benzoin Solution 12 dr
• Ambergris Tincture 2 oz 
• Vanillin Solution 2 oz
• Musk Solution 2 oz
• Jasmine 4 oz
• Rose 4 oz 

L'Eau de Ambre Royale:

Take:

• 1 drachm essence of ambergris 
• 1 drachm essence of musk 
• 2 1/2 fluid ounces eau d'Ambrette 
• 2 1/2 fluid ounces eau de fleurs d'oranges
• 5 fluid ounces rectified spirit

Mix. Very agreeable and durable.

Extrait Ambre or Eau Ambree:

• tincture of ambergris  30 gr
• tincture of musk 15 gr
• esprit d'Ambrette 1 litre
• eau de fleurs d'oranges 250 gr
• alcohol at 90% 1 litre

Extrait d'Ambre:

• Rose extrait 
• Essence of ambergris 
• Essence of musk 
• Essence of vanilla 
• Rose water 

Mix

BOUQUET d AMBRE 

• Ambergris 2.5 grams
• Oil of rose 2.5 grams
• Vanillin 0.5 grams
• Essence of jasmin 250.0 grams
• Musk 0.1 grams
• Oil of orris 5 drops
• Coumarin 0.25 grams
• Alcohol 750.0 grams

Extrait d'Ambre:

a) 3 liters of ambergris essence, 0.75 liters of musk essence, 25 gr. rose oil, 0.4 liters of vanilla essence, 1.5 liters of alcohol.

b) 21. Esprit de Roses triple, 4 liters of ambergris essence, 1 liter of musk essence, 0.5 liters of vanilla essence.

Extrait d'Ambre:

• alcohol at 85% 1 litre
• tincture of ambrette 500 gr
• tincture of ambergris 50 gr
• tincture of tolu balsam 10 gr
• tincture of vanilla 12 gr

Extrait Artificial d'Ambre:

• alcohol at 90% 1 litre
• essence of ambrette 10 gr
• piperonal 5 gr
• ambrene synthetic 25 gr

Various New Mown Hay Formulas

New Mown Hay:

a) 5 gr. sliced ​​grains "Tonka", 10 gr. iris root, 0.5 gr. vanillin, 30 drops of bergamot oil, 2 drops of rose and lavender "Neroli" oil, 1 drop of clove oil, 0.2 gr. herb "Patchouli", 0.5 gr. sublimated benzoic acid, 2 gr. nettles, 207 gr. of the rectified spirit is soaked for 14 days and then filtered.

b) 48 gr. Esprit de Roses triple, 60 gr. geranium essence, 60 gr. jasmine essence, 60 gr. essence of "Neroli", 90 gr. rose essence, 60 gr. violet essence, 90 gr. essence "Tonka", 30 gr. vanilla essence, 15 gr. civet essence, 3 gr. musky essence.

New Mown Hay #1:

• Rose 1 1/2 oz 
• Jasmine 2 1/2 oz
• Orange Flower 2 1/2 oz
• Tuberose 3 1/2 oz
• Tonka Bean Tincture 6 oz

New Mown Hay #2:

Hay owes its fragrance partly to cumarin which is present in many plants but in especially large amount in tonka beans. Hence all similar perfumes must contain tincture of tonka. Other aromatic substances however contribute to the odor of hay, but the cumarin gives as it were the keynote to its real odor. A very pleasant perfume is made after the following formula:

• Essence of rose triple 1 qt 
• Coumarin 1 oz 
• Extract of jasmine 1 qt 
• Extract of orange flower 1 qt 
• Extract of rose 1 qt 
• Tincture of tonka 2 qts 

Some add to this perfume: 1 pint of extract of cassie which imparts a greenish color to it.


New Mown Hay #3:

• Extract of  Tonquin Bean 2 pints
• Extract of geranium 1 pint
• Extract of orange-flower 1 pint
• Extract of rose 1 pint
• Extract of rose triple 1 pint
• Extract of jessamine 1 pint

New Mown Hay #4:

• 1 qt Essence of rose (triple) 
• 1 qt extract of jasmine
• 1 qt extract of orange flower
• 1 qt extract of rose
• 2 qts tincture of tonka
• 1 oz Coumarin

Some add to this perfume, 1 pint of extract of cassie to impart a greenish color to it.


New Mown Hay #5:

• Tincture of cassie 8 ounces
• Tincture of orris 16 ounces 
• Tincture of coumarin 24 ounces 
• Tincture of civet 2 ounces 
• Tincture of orange flowers 8 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmine 8 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 10 ounces
• Oil of sandalwood 5 drops 
• Oil of cloves 5 drops 
• Oil of neroli, bigarade 10 drops 
• Oil of rose geranium 20 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary.

 
New Mown Hay #6:

• Tincture of tonka 25 ounces 
• Tincture of musk 6 ounces 
• Tincture of vanilla 2 ounces 
• Tincture of styrax 1/4 ounce 
• Tincture of orris 8 ounces 
• Oil of bergamot 1 ounce 
• Oil of lemon 1/2 ounce 
• Oil of neroli, bigarade 15 drops 
• Oil of cloves 15 drops 
• Oil of patchouly 10 drops
• Oil of sandalwood 1 dram 

Mix and filter if necessary.

Extract of New Mown Hay #7:

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of cassie
• 1/2 pint extract of orange flower
• 1/2 pint tincture of Tonquin
• 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
• 1/4 pint tincture of orris
• 1 oz oil of cedrat
• 1/2 oz oil of verbena
• 8 oz orange flower water, triple

New Mown Hay, Foin Frais (A):

• 200,0 essence of tonka beans
• 100,0 essence of geranium
• 100,0 essence of neroli
• 200,0 essence of rose
• 100,0 essence of jasmine

New Mown Hay, Foin Frais (B):

• 1,8 bergamot oil
• 0,15 rose oil
• 0,1 neroli oil
• 0,1 lavender oil
• 0,05 clove oil
• 10,0 violet root, in small pieces
• 5,0 tonka beans, in small pieces
• 0,2 patchouli leaves
• 2,0 nettle leaves
• 0,5 benzoic acid
• 0,5 vanillin
• 200,0 alcohol

Mix and infuse for 2 weeks.



New Mown Hay:

• coumarin
• styrax
• bergamot
• neroli
• musk
• peppermint

Kao Tsong

• 170 gr oakmoss
• 50 gr jasmine oil absolute
• 100 gr artificial jasmine oil
• 50 gr vetiver oil
• 40 gr sandalwood oil
• 33 gr ylang ylang
• 10 gr rose oil (moroccan)
• 20 gr rose oil (bulgarian)
• 10 gr patchouli oil
• 2 gr costus oil
• 100 gr methyl ionone (violet)
• 25 gr cinnamic alcohol
• 45 gr phenylethyl alcohol
• 30 gr vetiveryl acetate
• 10 gr styrallyl acetate
• 40 gr hydroxycitronellal (lily of the valley)
• 40 gr lilalol
• 10 gr artificial carnation (extra)
• 2 gr amylcinnamic aldehyde
• 20 gr dimethylhydrocinnamyl
• 100 gr artificial gardenia
• 5 gr C-10 aldehyde
• 25 gr C-11 aldehyde
• 5 gr methyl nonyl aldehyde (to 10%)
• 20 gr vanillin
• 10 gr musk ambrette
• 20 gr musk ketone

Cremorne Valley Bouquet

• Tincture of jasmine 10 ounces 
• Tincture of orange flowers 10 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 20 ounces 
• Tincture of violet 10 ounces 
• Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 1 ounce 
• Tincture of ambergris 1 ounce 
• Oil of bergamot 1/2 ounce 
• Oil of hyacinth geraniol 1 dram 

Mix and filter if necessary. 

To Clean Kid Gloves

Make a solution of one quart of distilled benzine with one-fourth of an ounce of carbonate of ammonia, one-fourth of an ounce of fluid chloroform, one-fourth of an ounce of sulphuric ether. Pour a small quantity into a saucer, put on the gloves, and wash, as if washing the hands, changing the solution until the gloves are clean. Rub them clean and as dry as possible with a clean dry cloth, and take them off and hang them where there is a good current of air to dry. This solution is also excellent for cleaning ribbons, silks, etc., and is perfectly harmless to the most delicate tints. Do not get near the fire when using, as the benzine is very inflammable.

Washing the gloves in turpentine, the same as above, is also a good means of cleaning them.

Lip Salves and Rouges

Creme de Psyche - for the Lips:

Take:

• 1 ounce White wax 
• 1 ounce spermaceti
• 5 ounces oil of sweet almonds

Melt together, and pour in Mecca balsam, 1 drachm; and stir until the mass congeals, then add 10 grains powdered acetate of lead.

Superior Lip Salve:

White wax, two and a half  ounces ; spermaceti, three quarters of an ounce ; oil of  almonds, four ounces. Mix well together, and apply a  little to the lips at night.

German Lip Salve:

Butter of cacao, 1/2 ounce; oil of almonds, 1/4 ounce; melt together with a gentle heat, and add 6 drops essence of lemon.

French Lip Salve:

Mix together 16 ounces lard, 2 ounces white wax, nitre and alum in fine powder, of each, 1/2 ounce; alkanet to color.

Glycerine Lip Salve:

This is prepared by adding 1/6 to 1/8 part of glycerine to any one of the above whilst in the melted state, and stirring the mixture assiduously until it begins to cool.

White Lip Salve:

Take 1/2 pound spermaceti ointment, liquify it by the heat of warm water, and stir in 1/2 drachm neroli or essence de petitgrain as before.

White Lip Salve #2:

• 1/4 lb Almond oil
• 1 oz Wax
• 1 oz Spermaceti
• 1/2 drachm Otto of almonds
• 1/4 drachm Otto of geranium

After lip salve is poured into the pots and got cold, a red-hot iron must be held over them for a minute or so, in order that the heat radiated from the irons may melt the surface of the salve and give it an even face.

Peruvian Red Lip Salve:

Take:

• 1/2 pound spermaceti ointment
• 3 or 4 drachms alkanet root

Digest, at a gentle heat, until the first has acquired a rich deep red color, then pass it through a coarse strainer. "When the liquid fat has cooled a little, stir in thoroughly 3 drachms balsam of Peru. In a few minutes pour off the clear portion from the dregs (if any), and add 20 to 30 drops oil of cloves. Lastly, before it cools, pour it into the pots or boxes. The product forms the finest and most esteemed Up salve. 2 or 3 drops of essence of ambergris, or of essence royale, improve and vary it.

Rose Lip Salve:

As the above, but using only 1 1/2 drachms balsam of Peru, and replacing the oil of cloves with a few drops of attar of roses, or sufficient to give the mixture a marked odor of roses. Some makers omit the balsam altogether. If uncol-ored, it forms white rose lip salve.

Rose Lip Salve #2:

• 1/2 lb Almond oil 
• 2 oz Spermaceti and wax
• 2 oz Alkanet root
• 1/4 drachm Otto of roses

Place the wax, sperm, and oil on to the alkanet root in a vessel heated by steam or water-bath; after the materials are melted, they must digest on the alkanet to extract its color for at least four or five hours; finally, strain through fine muslin, then add the perfume just before it cools.

Common Lip Salve:

Is made simply of equal parts of lard and suet, colored with alkanet root, and perfumed with an ounce of bergamot to every pound of salve.

To Make Lip Salve:

Melt in a jar placed in a basin of boiling water a quarter of an ounce each of white wax and spermaceti, flour of benzoin fifteen grains, and half an ounce of the ]oil of almonds. Stir till the mixture is cool. Color red with alkanet root.

Pomade Rosat for the Lips:

Melt together:

• 2 ounces white wax
• 4 ounces oil of sweet almonds
• 3 drachms alkanet

Digest for several hours, strain, and add 12 drops attar of rose ; used for the lips.

Various Pinks (Carnation) Oeillet Formulas

Carnation natural occurs as pomade or occasionally concretes but these are scarce and high priced. The odour base is isoeugenol modified by eugenol, esters of eugenol, and also nerol, heliotropin, terpineol, and hydroxycitronellal with the flowery note brought out by ylang ylang oil.

Top notes: eugenol, Portugal orange, cinnamic alcohol, cassie, rose geranium, clove, nerol, pimento, Ceylon cinnamon, petitgrain, phenylethyl acetate, hydroxycitronellal

Middle notes: linalol, orange blossom, rose, carnation, tuberose, jonquil, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang, iso-eugenol, heliotropin

Base notes: terpineol, benzoic acid, vanillin, styrax, tolu balsam, musk, benzoin, patchouli, sandalwood, civet, ambergris

Extrait Artificiel d'Oeillet:

• isoeugenol 30 gr
• essence de roses 3.5 gr
• phenylethyl acetate 1.2 gr
• alcool cinnamique 0.4 gr
• linalol 4 gr
• alcohol phenylethylique 1.5 gr
• vanilline 0.7 gr
• alcohol at 90%  2 liters

Extrait d'Oeillet:

alcohol at 95% 1.5 liter

girofle anglais 250 gr

cannelle de Chine 10 gr

essence de girofle 10 gr

essence de cannelle 1 gr

essence de Portugal 10 gr

essence de geranium 10 gr

tincture de baume de tolu 10 gr

Carnation Extract #1:

• Vanillin Tincture 2 oz 
• Cassie 4 oz
• Orange Flower 4 oz 
• Rose 6 oz

Extrait Artificiel d'Oeillet (Imitation Carnation Extract) #2:

• 28 centiliters rose spirits
• 14 cubic centiliters orange blossom spirits
• 14 cubic centiliters acacia spirits
• 36 grams vanilla spirits
• 10 drops clove oil

Imitation Carnation Extract #3:

• 171 centiliters tuberose extract
• 143 centiliters jonquil extract
• 14 centiliters styrax extract
• 14 centiliters tolu extract

Clove Pink:

• Tincture of jasmine 16 ounces 
• Tincture of orris 16 ounces 
• Tincture of musc baur 8 ounces 
• Tincture of benzoin 1 dram 
• Oil of rose geranium 1 dram 
• Oil of cloves 1/2 dram 
• Oil of neroli Portugal 1 dram 
• Oil of pimento 10 drops 
• Oil of patchouli 10 drops 
• Oil of sandalwood 1 dram 
• Cologne spirits, (188%) 10 ounces 
• Orange flower water 2 ounces 

Mix and filter. 

Imitation Essence of Clove Pink

• 1/2 pint Esprit de rose
• 1/4 pint esprit de fleur d'orange
• 1/4 pint esprit de cassie
• 2 oz Esprit de vanilla 
• 10 drops Oil of cloves

It is remarkable how very much this mixture resembles the odor of the flower, and the public never doubt its being the "real thing."

Persian Pink:

• Tincture of orange flowers 4 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 8 ounces 
• Tincture of cassie 4 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
• Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 2 ounces 
• Oil of cloves 10 drops 
• Oil of sandalwood 5 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary.



Pinks:

• Tincture of rose 10 ounces 
• Tincture of orange flowers 6 ounces 
• Tincture of cassie 4 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
• Tincture of ambergris 1 dram 
• Oil of cloves 5 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary.

Extrait d'Oeillet:

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of cassie
• 1/2 pint tincture of ambrette
• 1/4 pint tincture of orris
• 1/4 pint tincture of vanilla
• 2 dram oil of cloves
• 1 dram coil of cinnamon (true)
• 1 dram oil of petit grain
• 1/2 pint alochol
• 1/2 pint orange flower water, triple

Sweet Pink:

• Tincture of rose 16 ounces 
• Tincture of orange flowers 8 ounces 
• Tincture of cassie 8 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
• Tincture of civet 1/2 ounce 
• Oil of cloves 10 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary.


Clove Pink: 

• Oil of cloves 10 drops 
• Tincture of orris 10 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
• Tincture of ambrette 2 ounces 
• Cologne spirits (188%) 6 ounces 
• Orange flower water 5 ounces 
• Rose water 9 ounces 

Dissolve the oil in the tinctures and cologne spirits add the waters siowiy and filter through taleum at At low temperature.


Gillyflower:

• 1200,0 Essence of neroli
• 1200,0 Essence of rose
• 600,0 Essence of vanilla
• 25 drops bitter almond oil
• 600,0 Essence of violet root
• 600,0 Essence of acacia

Infuse for 14 days.

Clove Pink Bouquet (Saunder's)

• 12 oz jasmine extract
• 12 oz orris extract
• 8 oz musk extrect
• 1 dra rose otto
• 2 dr clove otto
• 1 dr neroli otto
• 10min pimento otto
• 20 min patchouli otto
• 2 dr sandalwood otto
• 4 pts benzoic acid

CARNATION PINK 

• Oil of cloves 
• Cassie extrait 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Orange flower extrait 
• Rose extrait 
• Essence of civet 
• Essence of vanilla 
• Tincture of storax 
• Spirit of ylang ylang 

ESSENCE OF CLOVE PINK 

• Rose extrait 
• Orange flower extrait 
• Essence of vanilla 
• Oil of cloves 

Mix and after standing for several days filter 

Hoyt's German Cologne

Hoyt's German Cologne


The following formula has been as similar to Hoyt's German Cologne

• 1 ounce Oil Bergamot 
• 1 ounce Lemon 
• 1/4 ounce Oil Neroli  
• 1/2 ounce Oil Santal Wood 
• 20 grains Camphor
• 7 pints Cologne Spirit 
• 1 pint Rose Water 

Mix and let month then filter. 

Various Patchouli Formulas

Extrait de Patchouli:

alcohol at 85% 1 liter

essence de patchouli 50 gr

essence de bergamot 25 gr

tincture of benzoin 25 gr

Extrait de Patchouli (autre formule):

alcohol at 90% 12 liters

extrait d'essence de bouquet 5 liters

infusion de poudre 3 liters

essence de patchouli 300 gr

essence de cedre 200 gr

essence de geranium 100 gr

Extrait de Patchouli Pour L'Exportation:

alcohol at 90% 20 liters

eau de verveine 1/2 liter

extrait d'essence de bouquet 1/2 liter

essence de patchouli 60 gr

essence de cedre 60 gr

essence de girofle 30 gr

eau de riviere 5 grams

Extract Patchouly 

• 8 parts Essence Patchouly 
• 2 parts Essence Rose 
• 2 parts Essence Rose Geranium 
• 4 parts Cologne Spirit 

Mix.

Patchouly #2:

• Sandal Oil 1/2 dr 
• Bergamot Oil 1/2 dr
• Geranium Oil 1 dr
• Civet Tincture 4 dr
• Musk Tincture 4 1/2 dr
• Patchouly Oil 5 dr
• Cassie 2 oz 
• Jasmine 5 oz 
• Rose 8 oz 

Patchouli #3:

• Tincture of musk 4 ounces 
• Tincture of orris 4 ounces 
• Tincture of vanilla 2 ounces 
• Oil of rose 1/2 dram 
• Oil of sandalwood 20 minims 
• Oil of patchouli 40 minims 
• Cologne spirits (188%) 6 ounces 
• Rose water 2 ounces 

Mix and filter.


Extrait de Patchouly:

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1-1/2 pint deodorized alcohol
• 6 drams oil of patchouly
• 1 dram oil of rose
• 8 oz rose water, triple

Extract of Patchouli Perfume:

• 1 1/4 ounces attar of patchouli
• 1/4 ounce attar of rose
• 1 gallon rectified spirits

Common Essence de Patchouli:

• 1 1/4 ounces otto of patchouli
• 1/4 ounce otto of rose
• 1 gallon rectified spirit

Mix and let stand for a week.

Essence de Poucha Pat:

Essence de Patchoulie. 

Take: 

• 3 pounds Indian patchouli (leaves or foliaceous tops)
• 9 pints rectified spirit

Digest for a week in a close vessel, add 1/2 ounce oil of lavender (Mitcham) and promote solution by agitation. Next throw the whole into a still, and further add 1 gallon water and 2 or 3 pounds common salt. Agitate the whole briskly together, lute on the still-head, and distill over (rapidly) 1 gallon. To the distillate add 1/2 fluid ounce finest essence of musk; and after 10 days' repose, bottle it. A very fashionable perfume, particularly for personal use.

Satin Bouquet

• 160 gr oakmoss
• 40 gr sandalwood oil
• 35 gr ylang-ylang
• 20 gr Bulgarian rose oil
• 10 gr rose oil absolute
• 10 gr patchouli oil
• 5 gr costus oil
• 160 gr artificial jasmine (extra)
• 100 gr Methyl ionone
• 35 gr Cinnamic alcohol
• 35 gr Phenylethyl alcohol
• 35 gr Vetiveryl acetate
• 10 gr Styrallyl acetate
• 35 gr Hydroxycitronellal
• 35 gr Linalol
• 10 gr Dianthax base
• 10 gr Cinnamic aldehyde
• 20 gr Dimethylhydrocinnamol
• 100 gr artificial gardenia
• 10 gr Vanillin
• 5 gr C-10 aldehyde
• 25 gr C-11 aldehyde
• 10 gr Musk ambrette
• 20 gr Musk ketone

Various Heliotrope Perfume Formulas

HELIOTROPE TYPE - Natural products occasionally offered but synthetics closely approximate the natural fragrance Heliotropin (piperonal) is the basic odor with flowering adjuvants of hydroxycitronellal, geraniol, methyl acetophenone, and benzyl acetate. 

Melilotus, honeysuckle and Marvel of Peru have an odor of, suggestive of, but distinct from heliotrope. Coumarin, the basis of sweet clover (melilot) and new mown hay compositions, and the honeysuckle note is obtained by of linalol, geraniol, hydroxycitronellal, vanillin acetate, with tuberose essence.

Extrait d'Heliotrope:

tincture de vanille 500 gr

tincture de baume de perou 250 gr

esprit de roses 500 gr

esprit de jasmin 500 gr

esprit de tuberose 250 gr

esprit de fleurs d'oranger 250 gr

tincture of ambergris 8 gr

tincture of musc 8 gr

Extrait d'Heliotrope (autre formula):

eau spiritueuse de roses 500 gr

eau spiritueuse de jasmin 500 gr

eau spiritueuse de tuberoses 500 gr

tincture de vanille 250 gr

tincture de baume de perou 125 gr

tincture de ambergris 30 gr

Extrait d'Heliotrope:

extrait d'ambroisie compose 6 liters

infusion d'heliotrope 6 liters

infusion de vanille 2 liters

extrait de roses 4 liters

extrait d'orange 2 liters

infusion de musc 1 liter

essence d'amandes ameres 10 gr

Extrait Artificiel d'Heliotrope:

essence artificielle d'heliotrope 25 gr

aldehyde benzoique 1 gr

ionone 2 gr

coumarine 2 gr

alcohol 90% 1 liter

Extrait Heliotrope triple:

850 gr. wine spirit, 50 gr. jasmine extract (triple), 100 gr. tuberose extract (double), 10 gr. heliotropin, 2 gr. coumarin, 6 gr. ambergris tincture.

 

Heliotrope #1:

• Ylang Ylang Oil 1/4 dr 
• Benzyl Acetate 1 1/4 dr
• Terpineol 5 dr
• Heliotropin 5 1/2 dr
• Musk Tincture 12 dr
• Vanillin Tincture 12 dr
• Peru Balsam Tincture 12 dr
• Rose 3 oz 
• Tuberose 3 oz
• Jasmine 7 oz

Heliotrope #2:

• 5 oz cassie extract
• 1 oz orris
• 4 oz orange flower
• 12 oz jasmine
• 10 oz vanilla
• 12 oz tuberose
• 6 drams esprit de rose
• 6 drops almond oil

Heliotrope #3:

• 2 qts extract of rose, made from the pomade
• 1 qt extract of orange flowers, made from the pomade
• 4 oz tincture of ambergris
• 4 oz Heliotropin
• 1 dram musk xylene, 100%
• 1 qt alcohol

Heliotrope #4:

• Tincture of heliotrope (1 to 16) 8 ounces 
• Tincture of orris 16 ounces 
• Tincture or rose 8 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmin 8 ounces 
• Tincture of styrax 2 drams 
• Tincture of vetiver 2 drams 
• Tincture of coumarin 8 ounces 
• Oil of bergamot 2 drams 
• Oil of bitter almonds 8 drops 

Mix and filter if necessary

Extrait d'Heliotrope:

• Extract of jasmine from pomade 2 qts 
• Extract of orange flowers 1 pint 
• Tincture of ambergris 4 oz 
• Heliotropine 4 oz 
• Ylang Ylang, Siegert 2 drams 
• Coumarin 2 drams 
• Musk xylene 1 dram 
• Alcohol to make 4 qts 

Extrait  de Heliotrope #2:

• 1/2 pint Spirituous extract of vanilla
• 1/4 pint Spirituous extract of French rose pomatum
• 2 oz Spirituous extract of orange-flower pomatum
• 1 oz Spirituous extract of ambergris
•  5 drops Essential oil of almonds

A preparation made in this manner under the name of Extract de Heliotrope is that which is sold in the shops of Paris and London, and is really a very nice perfume, passing well with the public for a genuine extract of heliotrope.

Extrait au Heliotrope:

• 2 pints Extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of orange flower
• 1/2 pint Tincture of vanilla  
• 2 oz tincture of civet 
• 2 oz tincture of ambergris 
• 1 dram Oil of almonds 
• 4 oz Rose-water, triple  

Heliotrope is not cultivated for its perfume, although very fine. This formula is an imitation, and I believe a very good one.

Eau de Heliotrope:

• 1/2 Imperial fluid drachm essence of ambergris, coarsely powdered
• 1/2 ounce avoirdupois vanilla
• 1/2 pin orange-flower water
• 1 quart rectified spirit

5 or 6 drops each of oil of bitter almonds and cassia are sometimes added

Digest for a week, and then decant or filter. Used both as a cosmetic and perfume.

Essence of Heliotrope
Spirituous extract of vanilla 1/2 pint, of French rose-pomatum 1/4 pint, of orange-flower, pomatum 2 oz., of ambergris 1 oz.; add 5 drops of the essential oil of almond.


Eau Spiritueuse d'Heliotrope
 Eau Spiritueuse d'Heliotrope. Vanilla 3 drs., double orange-flower water 6 oz., rectified spirit a quart; macerate for 3 days, and distil in a water-bath. It may be coloured with cochineal. But the essence d'heliotrope of some perfumers appears, by the colour, not to have been distilled.


Heliotrope:

• heliotropin
• bergamot
• synthetic neroli
• orris
• Peru balsam
• bitter almond
• vanillin

Extrait de Heliotrope:

2 liters of rose essence and 600 gr. essence of "Neroli", both prepared from pomade, 200 gr. ambergris essence, 3 l. vanilla essence, 5 gr. bitter-almond oil. This perfume is particularly suitable for perfuming linen in wardrobes.

Eastern Essence

• 3 oz patchouly extract
• 1 oz verbena extract

Mix together.

Coffee Flowers Extract

Also known as Fleurs du Cafeyer d'Arabie.

• 1 oz cassie essence
• 1 oz tuberose essence
• 1 oz rose spirit
• fifty grains of freshly roasted coffee (bruised)
• 2 oz deodorized alcohol

Digest the coffee with the alcohol for two days, filter, adding sufficient alcohol to make the resulting tincture measure two fluid ounces; then add to it the other ingredients.

Coffee flowers give excellent perfume reminiscent of jasmine, cassia and mimosa. The resemblance between name and odor is probably as imaginary here as in the case above. The extract is peculiar, but, save as a novelty, received but little attention.

Japanese Perfumes

• 1/2 pint Extract of rose triple
• 1/2 pint Extract of vetiver
• 1/2 pint Extract of patchouli
• 1/2 pint Extract of cedar
• 1/2 pint Extract of sandalwood
• 1/4 pint Extract of verveine

Japanese Bouquet:

• 1 pint essence of rose pomade
• 1/2 pint vetiver
• 1/2 pint patchouli 
• 1/4 pint cedar
• 1/4 pint santal
• 2 pints vervaine 

Eau Japonaise (Japanese Water):

• 1 liter essence of Cedar
• 1 liter essence of Patchouli
• 1 liter essence of Santal
• 1 liter essence of Verbena essences
• 0.5 liters of Extrait de Vetiver
• 1 liter of Esprit de Roses, triple

The Court Nosegay Perfume

• 1 pint extrait de rose
• 1 pint extrait de jasmine
• 1 pint extrait de violette
• 1 pint esprit de rose triple
• 1 ounce extract of musk
• 1 ounce extract of ambergris
• 1/2 ounce otto of lemon
• 1/2 ounce otto of bergamot
• 1 drachm neroli

Piesse's Pastils

• 1/2 lb. Willow charcoal 
• 6 oz. Benzoic acid
• 1/2 drachm Otto of thyme
• 1/2 drachm Otto of caraway
• 1/2 drachm Otto of rose
• 1/2 drachm Otto of lavender
• 1/2 drachm Otto of cloves
• 1/2 drachm Otto of santal

Prior to mixing, dissolve 3/4 oz. nitre in half a pint of distilled or ordinary rose water; with this solution thoroughly wet the charcoal, and then allow it to dry in a warm place.

When the thus nitrated charcoal is quite dry, pour over it the mixed ottos, and stir in the flowers of benzoin. When well mixed by sifting (the sieve is a better tool for mixing powders than the pestle and mortar), it is finally beaten up in a mortar, with enough mucilage to bind the whole together, and the less that is used the better.

Eau de Chypre Perfume

This is an old-fashioned French perfume, presumed to be derived from the Cyperus esculentus by some, and by others to be so named after the Island of Cyprus; the article sold, however, is made thus—

• 2 pints esprit de rose triple
• 1 pint extract of musk
• 1/2 pint extract of ambergris
• 1/2 pint extract of vanilla
• 1/2 pint extract of tonka bean
• 1/2 pint extract of orris

The mixture thus formed is one of the most lasting odors that can be made.

Royal Palace Sachet

• 1 lb dried rose hips 
• 1/2 lb dried lavender
• 1/4 lb dried thyme
• 1/4 lb dried lemon thyme
• 1/4 lb dried mint
• 1/4 lb dried marjoram
• 2 oz ground cloves
• 2 oz ground allspice
• 1 drachm musk in grain

Egyptian Lotus Extract

Mix together:

• 2 oz jasmine essence
• 1 1/2 drams patchouly extract
• 1/2 oz orange flower spirit
• 1/2 oz vanilla tincture
• 1/2 oz civet tincture
• 2 drams rose essence
• 2 drams  clove spirit
• 2 drams benzoin tincture

Egyptian Lotus Extract 

• Essence of jasmine fl oz 8 1/4 
• Essence of rose fl dram 3 1/4
• Tincture of vanilla fl oz 2 
• Tincture of civet fl oz 2 1/2 
• Tincture of benzoin fl dram 5 
• Spirit of neroli fl dram 7
• Spirit of cloves fl dram 3 1/2 
• Spirit of patchouly fl dram 1 
• Oil of rose drop 1 
• Alcohol fl oz 6 1/2 

Empress Eugenie's Nosegay Perfume

Mix together:

• 1/4 pint extract of musk
• 1/4 pint extract of vanilla
• 1/4 pint extract of tonka bean
• 1/4 pint extract of neroli
• 1/2 pint extract of geranium
• 1/2 pint extract of rose, triple
• 1/2 pint extract of sandalwood