Various Eau de Cologne Recipes c1900

All recipes taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900. Most of them are earlier formulas that the journal culled from old books.


Superior Eau de Cologne c1900

• 3,000 ozs Spirit 
• 10 oz Neroli oil bigarade 
• 5 oz Rosemary oil  
• 15 oz Lemon oil 
• 5 oz Bergamot oil  
• 15 oz Pomegranate skin oil 

Princes Eau de Cologne 

• 3,000 ozs Spirit 
• 3 oz Rosemary oil 
• 10 oz Mitcham lavender oil 
• 50 oz Bergamot oil
• 50 oz Lemon oil
• 10 oz Bigarade neroli oil

Eau de Cologne #1. 

• 3,000 ozs Spirit 
• 6 oz Petit-grain oil 
• 2 oz Bigarade neroli oil
• 2 oz Lavender oil
• 5 oz Rosemary oil
• 12 oz Bergamot oil
• 12 oz Lemon oil
• 2 oz Geranium oil

Eau de Cologne #2.

• Spirit 3,000 ozs 
• 30 oz Bergamot oil  
• 30 oz Lemon oil 
•  2 oz Lavender oil
• 10 oz Petit grain oil 
• 5 oz White Thyme oil 
• 2 1/2 oz Bigarade Neroli oil 

Eau de Cologne with Artificial Perfumes 

• 3,000 oz Spirit 
• 15 oz Mitcham Lavender oil 
• 12 oz Schimmel's Neroli 
• 22 oz Heine's Orange Blossom 
• 5 oz Geranium oil 
• 30 oz Lemon oil 
• 15 oz Bergamot oil 

Blumen Eau 

• 3,000 oz Basis Spirit
• 40 oz Bergamot oil 
• 30 oz Lemon oil 
• 10 oz Schimmel's Neroli 
• 5 oz Lavender oil 
• 2 oz Petit grain oil
• 5 oz White thyme oil 

To every 1,000 ozs of this add the ingredients the several varieties, A - F inclusive as below:



A. Rose Water 

• Rosewood oil 10 oz 
• Rose geranium oil 10 oz 
• Heine's Pose blossom 2 oz 

B. Elder flower 

• Terpinoel 25 ozs 
• Schimmel's Jasmine 8 oz 

C. Lily of the Valley 

• Linaloe oil 20 ozs 
• Schimmel's Jasmine 8 oz 
• Lily Blossom oil Heiko to 1 oz 

D. Mignonette 

• Schimmel's Mignonette Geranium 10 oz 
• Mignonette oil, Heiko 2 oz 

E. Vinegar especially for southern climates export 

• Acetic acid 30 oz 
• Acetic ether 20 oz 
• Water 100 oz 

F. Ice Water Menthol 

• 20 ozs or according to requirements.

A cheap form of Eau de Cologne may be made the following recipe:

After standing a month it be mixed with china clay and white of egg and filtered

• 90 per cent spirit 1,000 ozs 
• Bergamot oil 6 oz 
• Lemon oil 15 oz 
• Rosemary oil 1 oz 
• Lavender oil 2 1/2 oz 
• Water 1,000 oz 

Eau de Cologne (La Deuxieme Qualite)
6 gallons Spirit (from corn)
2 oz Otto of orange peel
2 oz Otto of lemon peel
2 oz Otto of neroli, Petitgain
2 oz Otto of neroli, Petale
2 oz Otto of rosemary
2 oz Otto of bergamot peel
Mix with agitation; then allow it to stand for a few days perfectly quiet, before bottling.

A great many forms for the manufacture of Eau de Cologne have been published, the authors of some of the recipes evidently having no knowledge, in a practical sense, of what they were putting by theory on paper; other venturers, to show their lore, have searched out all the aromatics of Lindley's Botany, and would persuade us to use absinthe, hyssop, anise, juniper, marjoram, caraway, fennel, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, serpolet, angelica, cloves, lavender, camphor, balm, peppermint, galanga, lemon thyme,etc



Durokereau's Eau de Cologne
To 7 quarts French tasteless alcohol, add:

• 11 drachms essence of Portugal
• 13 drachms essence of bergamot
• 1 ounce essence of lemon
• 10 drachms essence of neroli
• 1 ounce essence of rosemary
• 1 ounce essence of lavender
• 14 drachms rose water
• 13 drachms jasmin water
• 15 drachms orange-flower water

Mix the whole together, let it stand 24 hours, and distill over a water-bath.



Piesse's Best Quality Cologne
Mix with agitation:

• 3 ounces attar of neroli petals;
• 1 ounce attar of neroli bigarade
• 2 ounces attar of rosemary
• 5 ounces attar of orange zest
• 5 ounces attar of citron zest
• 2 ounces attar of bergamot
•  6 gallons 95 per cent, grape spirit

Let it stand perfectly quiet for a few days. Although very fine eau de Cologne is often made by merely mixing the ingredients, it is better first to mix all the citrine attars with spirit, then distill the mixture, and afterwards add the rosemary and nerolies. This method is adopted by the most popular house in Cologne.


Goufife's Eau de Cologne

• 1/2 ounce each essence of lemon
• 1/2 ounce each essence of  bergamot
• 1/2 ounce each essence of and citron
• 4 ounce essence of rosemary
• 1/8 ounce essence of neroli

 Infuse for 8 days in 1 quart 95 per cent, alcohol. Filter, and bottle for use.


Cologne Essence

Oil of bergamot 2 drs., essence of lemon 1/2 dr., essence of cedrat 1/2 dr., true oil of rosemary 15 drops, rectified spirit (or spirit of balm) 1 1/2 oz.

Essence of Cologne; Cologne-Essence ; Concentrated Eau de Cologne. 

This is prepared from the same odorous ingredients as " Eau de Cologne," but taking 7 or 8 times the quantity, and using alcohol or the strongest rectified spirit, without which a permanent solution of the whole of them cannot be formed. Used as a condensed and convenient substitute for ordinary "Eau de Cologne " by travelers, being less bulky. It is also kept in stock by druggists and perfumers, to enable them to prepare that article extemporaneously, by simply diluting it with 8 times its bulk of spirit of the appropriate strength.

Ordinary Cologne

Take 10 qts alcohol at 85° and mix with the following:

• 2 oz essence of lemon
• 10 drams essence of rosemary
• 5 drams essence of lavender
• 1 1/4 drams essence of neroli
• 1 1/4 drams tincture of benzoin
• 1/2 dram essence of thyme
• 1/2 dram essence of clove
• 1/4 dram essence of peppermint
• 2 lbs. rosewater

Illyris Perfume c1900

• 30 fluid ozs tincture of heliotropine 
• 6 fluid ozs opoponax perfume 
• 1/2 fluid dr extract of ambergris 

Method: Mix and tinge with heliotropine color. The simple extracts enumerated had better be bought in bulk, though it would be cheaper to produce the tinctures where synthetic substances are named.

When desired, the perfumes may be diluted with distilled water, but too much must not be added, or cloudiness will ensue.

For the coloring a small quantity of the required aniline is dissolved in spirit, and kept in a bottle as required for use. This is added to the perfume drop by drop.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Espyalo Perfume c1900

• 24 fluid ozs perfumer's spirit 
• 20 fluid ozs tincture of orris 
• 80 drops oil of lemon 
• 75 drops otto rose 
• 60 drops oil of orange 
• 30 drops tincture of musk 

Method: Dissolve the oils in the spirit then add the tinctures, tinting pink.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Zelmera Perfume c1900

• 34 fluid ozs tincture of rhodinol 
• 16 fluid ozs perfumer's spirit 
• 16 fluid ozs extract of cassie 
• 16 fluid ozs extract of orange 
• 1 fluid oz tincture of nerolin fluid 
• 1/2 dr oil of verbena 

Method: Dissolve oil of verbena in the spirit add others and give an orange tint.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Niobene Perfume c1900

• 30 fluid ozs tincture of roseol 
• 20 fluid ozs perfumer's spirit 
• 20 fluid ozs orange blossoms perfume 
• 2 1/2  fluid ozs tincture of civet 
• 2 fluid ozs tincture of benzoin 

Method: Mix without coloring.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Idriol Perfume c1900

• 40 fluid ozs tincture of rhodinol 
• 20 fluid ozs extract of orange 
• 10 fluid ozs moss rose perfume 
• 10 fluid ozs extract of cassie 
• 10 fluid ozs tincture of irisone 
• 4 fluid ozs tincture of musk (diluted)

Method: Mix and tint with spirit rose.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Elytra Perfume c1900

• 40 fluid ozs opoponax perfume 
• 23 fluid ozs white rose perfume 
• 17 fluid ozs violette de bois perfume 
• 6 fluid drs tincture of musk 

Method: Mix the first three then add the tincture of musk giving a lavender tint with aniline.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Zuleika Perfume c1900

• 72 fluid ozs perfumer's spirit 
• 72 fluid ozs tincture of roseol 
• 60 fluid ozs extract of Jasmine 
• 40 fluid ozs tincture of orris 
• 40 fluid ozs tincture of vanillin 
• 10 fluid ozs extract of civet 
• 4 fluid ozs oil of lignum aloes 

Method: Dissolve the lignum aloe oil in the spirit then add the others as written very faintly tinging with spirit green.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Sinhali Perfume c1900

• 40 fluid ozs extract of jasmin 
• 40 fluid ozs tincture of rhodinol 
• 20 fluid ozs extract of cassie 
• 10 fluid ozs tincture of vanillin 
• 5 fluid ozs tincture of storax fluid dr tincture of irisone or violettol (strong)

Method: Mix coloring a faint rose tint with spirit rose.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Dyrel Perfume c1900

• 25 fluid ozs tincture of rhodinol 
• 15 fluid ozs tincture of orris 
• 10 fluid ozs extract of cassie 
• 8 fluid ozs extract of orange 
• 5 fluid ozs tincture of vanillin (Monnet)
• 5 fluid ozs tincture of irisone 
• 2 fluid ozs extract of civet 
• 1 fluid ozs tincture of musk 

Method:  Mix and tinge yellow.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

Mysolia Perfume c1900

• 26 fluid ozs ess bouquet perfume 
• 25 fluid ozs Jockey Club perfume 
• 12 fluid ozs tincture of heliotropine 

Method: Mix and tinge a lilac tint with aniline.

Taken from: American Journal Soap and Manufacturing Chemist, c1900.

All Flower Water c1779

Source: The Toilet of Flora. c1779

Pour into a large vessel:

• 5 quarts of strong Spirit of Wine, and infuse in it the following Flowers, as they come in season: 

• 1/4 pound Violets
• 1/4 pound Hyacinths
• 1/4 pound Wall Flowers 
• 2 ounces single Jonquils
• 2 ounces double Jonquils
• 1/4 pound of Lilies of the Valley 
• 1/4 pound Spanish Jasmine 
• 1/2 ounce of Rosemary Flowers 
• 1 ounce of Elder Flowers 
• 2 ounces of Wild Roses, bruised
• 2 ounces of Damask, bruised
• 2 ounces of White Roses, bruised; 
• 3 ounces of Orange Flowers 
• 1/4 pound of Clove-July-flowers,
• 1/4 pound Syringo Blossoms (seringa = mock orange blossom) 
• 1/4 pound Tuberoses
• 1/4 pound Tops of Mint in Flower
• 30 drops of Quintessence of Musk-seed

The latter, however, need not be added till the time of distillation, which must not be till three days after the last Flowers have been in- fused. Perform the operation in a water bath, and having carefully luted the head and receiver, which mutt be placed in a tub of cold water, to preserve the scent, draw off about three quarts and a pint with a moderate fire, then change the receiver, fix on another, and draw off another pint, which, though of an inferior quality, is well worth preserving.

Spring Nosegay Perfume

A Curious Water, known by the name of Spring Nosegay. Take:

• 6 ounces of Hyacinths 
• 1/2 pound of picked Violets
• 1/4 pound of Wall Flowers 
• 1/4 pound Jonquils 
• 1 ounce of Florentine Orris, bruised 
• 1/2 ounce of Mace, grossly powdered
• 2 ounces of Quintessence of Orange

Put the whole (the Jonquils, Wall Flowers, and Lilies of the Valley excepted) around the sixth of March into a glass body, with a gallon of strong Spirit of Wine; bruise the Hyacinths, Violets, Orris, and Mace; and towards the end of April, add the Jonquils, when in their perfection, that is to say, when full blown.

A few days after, put in the Wall Flowers, the Petals only; then add the Lilies of the Valley, carefully picked, and shake all the ingredients well. Eight days after having put in this last Flower, empty the infusion into an alembic, lute on a head and receiver, which mull: be placed in cold water, and distill in a water bath, with a gentle fire. From the above quantity three quarts of excellent Spirit may be drawn off, that justly deserves the appellation of the Spring Nosegay.

Spring Nosegay #2:

• Musk Tincture 10 dr 
• Ambergris Tincture 14 dr
• Cassie 2 1/2 oz 
• Rose 2 1/2 oz
• Jasmine 2 1/2 oz
• Tuberose 2 1/2 oz
• Orange 4 1/2 oz

Spring Nosegay #3:

• 1 qt cassie extract 
• 4 oz "Viozone" 
• 1 pt orris tincture
• 1 qt jasmine extract
• 1 qt orange blossom extract
• 1 oz "Floressence Mimosa"
• 1 dram Musk xylene, 100%

Various Jockey Club Formulas

English Jockey Club Perfume:

• 2 pts Extract of orris-root 
• 1 pt esprit de rose, triple 
• 1 pt esprit de rose 
• 1/2 pt extrait de cassia 
• 1/2 pt extrait de tubereuse 
• 1/2 pt extrait de ambergris 
• 1/2 oz otto of bergamot

French Jockey Club Perfume:

• 1 pt Esprit de rose
• 1 pt esprit de tuberose
• 1/2 pt esprit de cassia
• 1/4 pt esprit de jasmin
• 3 oz. extract of civet

American Jockey Club Perfume:

• 6 drams Oil of Bergamot
• 15 drops Oil of Lavender
• 8 drops Oil of Rose
• 4 ounces Orris Root Tincture
• 1 1/2 ounce Vanilla Tincture
• 4 ounces Cologne Spirits
• 7 ounces Rosewater

Mix as above.

Jockey Club Bouquet Perfume:

• 1 pint extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of tuberose
• 1/2 pint extract of cassia
• 4 ounces extract of jasmin
• 3 ounces tincture of civet

Filter the mixture.

Jockey Club Perfume #1:

• 5 gallons spirits of wine
• 1 gallon orange flower water
• 4 oz balsam of Peru
• 8 oz essence of bergamot
• 8 oz essence of musk
• 4 oz essence of cloves
• 2 oz essence of neroli

Mix.

Jockey Club Bouquet #2:

• 1 pint Extract of rose
• 1 pint extract of cassie 
• 1 pint extract of orange flower 
• 1/2 pint Tincture of orris 
• 1/4 pint tincture of ambergris
• 1/4 pint tincture of musk 
• 1 ounce Oil of bergamot
• 1 drachm oil of rose 
• 8 ounces Orange-flower water 

This is of English origin, and has a great name and a great sale.

Jockey Club #3:

• Oil bergamot parts 5 
• Oil rose geranium parts 5 
• Tincture ambergris parts 50 
• Extract jasmine parts 250 
• Extract iris parts 350 
• Alcohol parts 340 

The next formula from Dieterich's Manual is said to yield a superb perfume. 

Jockey Club #4:

• Extract jasmine grains 30.0 
• Extract tuberose grains 30.0 
• Spirit nitrous ether grains  5.0 
• Storax grains  5.0 
• Civet grains  0.02 
• Musk grains  0.05 
• Coumarin grains  0 07 
• Heliotropin grains  0.01 
• Oil rose grains 1.00 
• Oil bergamot grains 0.50 
• Oil rose geranium, French 5 drops
• Oil orange flower 5 drops
• Oil cinnamon Ceylon 2 drops
• Oil rosewood 2 drops
• Oil bitter almond 2 drops
• Oil linaloe 2 drops
• Oil iris 2 drops
• Oil coriander 1 drops
• Alcohol absolute grains 135.00 

Triturate the musk and civet with a little water before adding to the other ingredients 

Jockey Club #5: 

• Essence acacia parts 1,000 
• Essence tuberose parts 1,200
• Essence vanilla parts 600
• Essence jasmine parts 1,000
• Essence rose parts 500
• Essence civet parts 300
• Essence bergamot parts 25
• Essence rose geranium parts 5
• Essence lemon parts 20

Jockey Club #6:

• Spirit 4000 grammes
• Water 500  grammes
• Musk tincture 60 grammes
• Bergamot oil 60 grammes
• Tonka beans essence 60  grammes
• Clove oil 30 grammes grammes
• Cassia oil 10 grammes
• Palmarosa oil 20 grammes
• Lavender oil 15 grammes

Jockey Club #7:

• Ambrette Oil 1 dr 
• Cassie Oil 1 1/2 dr
• Rose Oil 3 1/2 dr
• Linalyl Acetate 6 dr
• Tolu Tincture 12 dr
• Musk Tincture 2 oz 
• Orris Tincture 2 1/2 oz
• Jasmine 4 1/2 oz
• Rose 5 oz

Extract Jockey Club 

• 4 parts Triple Extract Rose 
• 4 parts Triple Extract Tuberose 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Cassie 
• 2 parts Triple Extract Jasmine 
• 3 parts Extract Orris 
• 1 part Extract Ambergris 
• 1 part Extract Civet 
• 2 parts Essence Rose 
• 5 parts Cologne Spirit 

Mix

taken from Fenner's Complete Formulary, 1888.


Jockey Club Bouquet. 
Extract of orris root 2 pints, esprit de rose triple 1 pint, esprit de pommade de rose 1 pint, extract of pomade of cassia, and tuberose, 1/2 pint each, extract of ambergris 1/2 pint, oil of bergamot 1/2 oz.


Jockey Club #8:

• Tincture of cassie 17 ounces 
• Tincture of tuberose 20 ounces 
• Tincture of jasmin 17 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 8 1/2 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 10 ounces 
• Tincture of civet 5 ounces 
• Oil of bergamot 3 drams 
• Oil of lemon 3 drams 
• Oil of rose geranium 1 dram 

Mix and filler if necessary.


Jockey Club #9:

• Tincture of jasmine 10 ounces 
• Tincture of orange flowers 8 ounces 
• Tincture of rose 8 ounces 
• Tincture of cassie 8 ounces 
• Tincture of coumarin 4 ounces 
• Tincture of civet 2 ounces 
• Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 4 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 2 ounces 
• Oil of rose 1 dram 

Mix and filter if necessary.




Jockey Club: 

• Oil of bergamot 1 1/2 drams 
• Oil of lavender 1/2 dram 
• Oil of rose 15 minims 
• Tincture of musc baur (synthetic musk) 1 ounce 
• Tincture of orris root 8 ounces 
• Tincture of vanillin 3 ounces 
• Cologne spirits 188 per ct 8 ounces 
• Rose water 14 ounces 

Mix the oils and tincture with 4 ounces of cologne spirits, place the magnesia in a mortar, pour on the solution of oils and triturate well, take the remaining 16 ounces of spirits, mix with the 14 ounces of water, and slowly add to the contents of the mortar stirring constantly and uniformly for 10 minutes. Filter through filtering paper and at as low a temperature as possible. If weather is warm, filter in an ice chest at a temperature of about 40 F. The product should measure 2 pints.

JOCKEY CLUB #1 

• Jasmine extrait 
• Otto of rose 
• Essence of musk 
• Tincture of Tonka bean 
• Cologne spirit 

JOCKEY CLUB #2 

• Spirit of rose 
• Tuberose extrait 
• Cassie extrait 
• Essence of civet 
• Rose extrait 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Orange flower extrait 
• Essence of musk 

JOCKEY CLUB #3:

• Tincture of orris 
• Essence of civet 
• Essence of ambergris 
• Essence of musk 
• Cassie extrait 
• Tuberose extrait 
• Rose extrait 
• Spirit of rose 

Various Fleur d'Italie Formulas

• 2 pts Esprit de rose
• 1 pt esprit de rose, triple
• 1 pt esprit de jasmin
• 1 pt esprit de violette
• 1/2 pt extract of cassia
• 2 oz. extract of musk
• 2 oz. extract of Ambergris

Italian Nosegay or Fleur d'ltalie 

• 2 pints essence of rose pomade 
• 1 pint jasmine
• 1 pint violet 
• 1/2 pint cassie 
• 1/2 pint tuberose 
• 2 oz tonquin 
• 2 oz ambergris 
• 2 oz musk  

Fiori di 'Italia:

• Extract of cassie 1 pint 
• Tincture of ambergris 5 oz 
• Extract of jasmine 1 qt 
• Tincture of musk 5 oz 
• Extract of rose 2 qts 
• Extract of violet 1 qt 
• Essence of rose triple 1 qt 

Fleur d Italie 

• Essence of ambergris 
• Essence of musk 
• Spirit of rose 
• Cassie extrait 
• Tuberose extrait 
• Jasmine extrait 
• Violet extrait 
• Rose extrait

Abeer, or aromatic powder of the Muslim women

Take equal parts of:

• rose
• aloes-wood
• sandalwood
• turmeric
• camphor
• civet

Dry and grind to fine powder. Mix together. This powder is to be rubbed all over the face or body.

Georgian Cold Cream

Take:

• 2 ounces of sweet oil of almonds
• 3 drachms of white wax
• 3 drachms of spermaceti
• 2 ounces of rose-water
• 1 drachm of oil of bergamot
• 15 drops of oil of lavender
• 15 drops of otto of roses

Melt the wax and spermaceti in the oil of almonds, by placing them together in a jar, which should be plunged into boiling water. Heat a mortar (which should, if possible, be marble) by pouring boiling water into it, and letting it remain there until the mortar is uniformly heated ; the water is to be poured away, and the mortar dried well. Pour the melted wax and spermaceti into the warm mortar, and add rose-water gradually, while the mixture is constantly stirred or whisked with an egg-whisp, until the whole is cold, and, when nearly finished, add the oils and otto of roses. In the absence of a mortar, a basin plunged into an other containing boiling water will answer the purpose.

Pastilles de Serail, or Pastilles of the Harem

• 24 grams of olibanum
• 24 grams of storax
• 16 grams of nitre
• 124 grams of pulverized charcoal

For Rose Pastilles, use the above:

• 32 grams of rose petals
• 2 grams of essence of rose

For Orange Blossom Pastilles, use the first recipe and add:

• 24 grams of galbanum
• 32 grams of dried pulverized orange peel
• 2 grams essence of neroli

For vanilla pastilles, use the first recipe and add:

• 24 grams of galbanum
• 16 grams of cloves
• 32 grams of vanilla
• 1 gram essence of cloves
• 16 grams essence of vanilla

Classic Pastilles du Serail:

• 65 gr Benzoin
• 16 gr Tolu balsam
• 4 gr Labdanum
• 16 gr yellow sandalwood
• 192 gr light charcoal
• 8 gr potassium nitrate

Rose Lip Salve

Take:

• 8 ounces sweet almond oil
• 4 ounces prepared mutton suet
• 1 ounces white wax
• 2 ounces spermaceti
• 20 drops otto

Steep a small quantity of alkanet root in the oil, and strain before using. Melt the suet, wax, and spermaceti together, then add the coloric oil and otto.

Maloine Face Powder

Take:

• 4 ounces of powdered marsh-mallow roots
• 2 ounces of powdered white starch
• 3 drachms of powdered orris-root
• 20 drops of essence of jasmine

Mix well, and sift through fine muslin. This is one of the most agreeable and elegant cosmetics yet known for softening and whitening the skin, preserving it from chapping, and being so simple that it may be applied to the most delicate or irritable skin.